TPA3116D2 Amp

Many thanks!

8 or 9 euro at audiophonics, voltage rating is low, but not too low I think.
I bought a couple to try and some toroids from a dutch site.
 

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Sorry, I must have misunderstood your post about inductor spacing/90º orientation 🙂

I didn't say 90º orientation. I said at right angles. Straight and parallel lines are also at right angles in relation to each other. We're also talking about inductors sitting on the same plane of reference. My comment was regarding the lay-out danzz made which breaks all three best practice lay out rules; a) the inductors should be in pairs related to the output channel, b) the inductors in each pair should be closer to or equal distance from inductors in any other pair, and c) the pairs should be at right angles relative to each other.

The normal way of putting all 4 inductors in a straight line or 2x2 satisfies all 3.
 
Despite that I got this amp long ago, I havent had the chance to try it yet, I make my diy audio things in an old house that belonged to my father, but some burglars went in and robbed me a few things, speakers, a couple of subs, tools... anyway enough for not letting me finish a 2.1 project boombox I had in hands for a present for a friend...

Anyway back to the business, I believe that with a few mods this board can sound much better, of course it wont be a high end thing, but Im sure that it can sound really good for the money it costs... The mods I would do are a few, first of, due that the op-amps are in sockets I would upgrade them by lm4562 (I have a couple in my components box, but any suggestion its welcome), easy upgrade that can be a really surprise, at least in my lepai it was... second mod, changing caps, upgrade input caps before the main pot by wima mks2, as they fit nicely, then upgrade dc coupling caps, as suggested in this thread, oscons or nichicons, upgrade main power caps by panasonic FC or nichicon FG ( also have a couple of them around), and a mod to study if its possible it would be boostrap snnuber, there is not much gap for it, I would do only this mod in both satellite outputs.

Danzz has been awesome here, and has taken some high res snapshots of the board so others can take a look, and help identify parts as well. Currently there is a great article on how to mod the YJ 2.0 board, hopefully we can expand the library and create one for a 2.1 board such as this one. Below are images (thanks Danzz!). As Danzz mentioned the op-amps are very easily swapped. We were trying to find a way to add the snubber, Danzz mentioned "I think its the best way to add the snubber, make a thing hole, solder a thin isolated wire to the cap in the inductor vía and then add the resistor and cap At the bottom solder to the wire and on the other side to the ground plane."

I started identifying easily modded components on the board, labelled to allow us to avoid confusion while discussing

(J) is the XO, we are trying to figure out what circuit design is being used to handle the XO.

(using imgur due to access forbidden issue on gdocs that Irribeo noticed)















High-Res Image Album:

http://imgur.com/a/RhdvY
 
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Rubycon YXG 1800uF/25V = A
Could very well be excellent looking fakes, almost everything is perfect except not very even and clean looking alu vent top and: 105°C a tiny difference in printspacing. PET vs more P E T on real and what type of capacitor is it?
YXG according to can possible fakes and YXG on real Rubycon can and the real Rubycons are a little blacker black too 😀

Measuring ESR could tell more difference I guess 🙂
 
Rubycon YXG 1800uF/25V = A
Could very well be excellent looking fakes, almost everything is perfect except not very even and clean looking alu vent top and: 105°C a tiny difference in printspacing. PET vs more P E T on real and what type of capacitor is it?
YXG according to can possible fakes and YXG on real Rubycon can and the real Rubycons are a little blacker black too 😀

Measuring ESR could tell more difference I guess 🙂

They do look like excellent fakes. The black may just be from the photos Danzz took.

For my purposes, the amp will be driving 4 Ohm speakers and a 4 Ohm woofer, I will be switching the inductors from 220s to 10uH.

I know Danzz was thinking of swapping out the caps on the top left (E).
 
What is also funny with this Feixiang 2.1 board but also other boards presumably made by same factory, my pt2313display version too, most outputfilter capacitors are 10% tolerance and one is 5%, really on my pt2313 board too 🙂

That is crazy! I see it now. The output caps and inductors are easily replaced on this board. Is there any reason the factory would do this? Any benefit? Is the LF channel treated differently somehow?
 
That is crazy! I see it now. The output caps and inductors are easily replaced on this board. Is there any reason the factory would do this? Any benefit? Is the LF channel treated differently somehow?

pt2313 is stereo, maybe orange is orange and letters are not their alphabet 😀 (flash makes it little hard to see, but kkjk is the row)
 

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How come you swapped out the inductors but kept the caps?
I had inductors but no caps probably. Lowlevel detail pt2313 is best of all 3116 ampboards I heard, bass is weakest, needs ~+4dB with pt2313 tonecontrols to come closer to other 3116 ampboards. Use board mainly to figure out where lowlevel detail is lost on all others, could be just volumepots, not sure yet. Just followed inductor placement posts, so that should be worse on this ampboard, they are spaced apart.
 
I had inductors but no caps probably. Lowlevel detail pt2313 is best of all 3116 ampboards I heard, bass is weakest, needs ~+4dB with pt2313 tonecontrols to come closer to other 3116 ampboards. Use board mainly to figure out where lowlevel detail is lost on all others, could be just volumepots, not sure yet. Just followed inductor placement posts, so that should be worse on this ampboard, they are spaced apart.

speaking of volume pots, has anyone ever noticed a big difference in quality when swapping out the volume pots for higher grade ones?