Good find, good price too, with free shipping. I also just found for a few dollars less and free ship:
2.1 HIFI Exquis digital integrated amplifier TPA3116D2 50W+50W+100W(bass) max without power supply-in Amplifier from Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Some buyer left its feedback, saying:
"The left is the stereo volume control The middle is not the subwoofer frequency adjustment. It's subwoofer volume. Right is not Subwoofer volume control. It's main volume. No the subwoofer frequency adjustment."
So I'm not too sure about that sub frequency adjustment... be careful. But I don't think there are any better alternatives out there.
I have one of these (link below - only $35)and the knobs on it are: L+R stereo volume, Sub low pass filter slope (they call it freq adjustment), sub volume.
NEW TPA3116 50W+50W+100W 2.1 HIFI digital power amplifier HIFI beyond TPA3123 TDA2030 LM1875-in Amplifier from Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
The low pass filter on this one has kind of a high corner freq somewhere around 300Hz. That works fine for me as a FAST (full range assisted sub woofer technology) speaker where I want to cross circa 300Hz, but if you are looking for sub 100Hz, there will be a lot of mid/low bass "leakage" from your sub. It sounds quite nice and comes in sturdy box however shipping broke a couple of the bootstrap caps and I had to replace them to get it to work.
The low pass filter on this one has kind of a high corner freq somewhere around 300Hz. That works fine for me as a FAST (full range assisted sub woofer technology) speaker where I want to cross circa 300Hz, but if you are looking for sub 100Hz, there will be a lot of mid/low bass "leakage" from your sub. It sounds quite nice and comes in sturdy box however shipping broke a couple of the bootstrap caps and I had to replace them to get it to work.
If it works like that then I'll get acceptable results I think, my target drivers are some 2nd hand Pioneer car drivers that measure quite good down to 200hz and not much bass under that, and a 2nd hand Pioneer car "sub" that is good from 40hz - 2000hz. But i'll measure when the unit arrives.
Could someone explain to me the number of amps used in a power supply.
right now I have power supply with 5 amps, like this:
36v Indeed Audiophile Quality AC90 265V TO DC36V5A Switching Power Adapter TDA7498E | eBay
24v http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221556432135?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I heard from others that better power supply gives cleaner sound, but what do you mean by that clean sound?
What if i get these power supply for example:
SMPS300RE +-36V (dual voltage) 230V Power Supply
24V 8.3A Power supply
At the moment I only can hear sound hiss, when I don't play any sound from my source, my Iphone and I take the volume nob all the way up on my amp.
So my big question is how clean and is it even audible to tell the difference between 5A, 8A or 16A power supply? Will I get stronger bass or something else with more amps?
right now I have power supply with 5 amps, like this:
36v Indeed Audiophile Quality AC90 265V TO DC36V5A Switching Power Adapter TDA7498E | eBay
24v http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221556432135?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I heard from others that better power supply gives cleaner sound, but what do you mean by that clean sound?
What if i get these power supply for example:
SMPS300RE +-36V (dual voltage) 230V Power Supply
24V 8.3A Power supply
At the moment I only can hear sound hiss, when I don't play any sound from my source, my Iphone and I take the volume nob all the way up on my amp.
So my big question is how clean and is it even audible to tell the difference between 5A, 8A or 16A power supply? Will I get stronger bass or something else with more amps?
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"Number of amps" is the current capability of the power supply. The PS has to be able to supply the current your amp needs. Too little, and it starts limiting the power of your amp, while too much doesn' t matter - if your amp needs 5 amp, a 25 amp power supply will still only supply the 5 amps your amp needs, the capability to supply more is not used.Could someone explain to me the number of amps used in a power supply.
Depending on your configuration, supply voltage and max power, betwen 2 and 8 A.How many amps is needed by the 3116D2 module?
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24V, 4 Ohm speakers. So 2A is the minimum?
But if there are 2 boards in PBTL for the same speakers?
Thank you!
But if there are 2 boards in PBTL for the same speakers?
Thank you!
2A 24V wold only give you 48W even at 100% efficiency, so you probably want more than 2 A.24V, 4 Ohm speakers. So 2A is the minimum?
But if there are 2 boards in PBTL for the same speakers?
24V, 4 Ohm speakers. So 2A is the minimum?
But if there are 2 boards in PBTL for the same speakers?
Thank you!
Check out the wiki under section 1.2.1 "How Much Power Do I Need?"
Blue/black 3116 board
Hi, I am new to class D amps so please be forgiving. I read most of this thread as well as other forums. I have purchased one of the blue/black boards with the intention to mod it after a period of listening stock. I understand that quality of components is spotty at best and that stock version does not sound great without mods. I am trying to understand if the problems I encountered with this board pre-mods are common or if it is a "bad" board.
The amp is in wooden enclosure, power is a laptop psu 16.5V at 4.5 Amp
1-loud turn on/off pop unless connected to source with volume pot turned down. If run full volume via airplay for example, the software volume control all the way down does not eliminate the pop. Does reducing gain to 20 snipping off the 20k gain resistor helps?
2 - Loud hiss+buzz if source not connected or if source is connected without volume control and in absence of input (i.e. music signal muted at the source but source connected). Noise disappears and amp is completely silent as soon as input signal appears
3 - If a passive volume control is added between source (external DAC) and amplifier the buzz increases turning the volume up (which suggests some grounding interference picked up from the DAC)
3 - If the source is not my external DAC but for example the analog output of an ipod or airport express or pc the buzz increases with volume but disappears completely at full volume
Also is there any grounding recommendation for this amp? Setup is external DAC to B1 pre to blue/black board. I play Flac files wireless via airport express.
Any suggestion or share of your experience is super appreciated.
Hi, I am new to class D amps so please be forgiving. I read most of this thread as well as other forums. I have purchased one of the blue/black boards with the intention to mod it after a period of listening stock. I understand that quality of components is spotty at best and that stock version does not sound great without mods. I am trying to understand if the problems I encountered with this board pre-mods are common or if it is a "bad" board.
The amp is in wooden enclosure, power is a laptop psu 16.5V at 4.5 Amp
1-loud turn on/off pop unless connected to source with volume pot turned down. If run full volume via airplay for example, the software volume control all the way down does not eliminate the pop. Does reducing gain to 20 snipping off the 20k gain resistor helps?
2 - Loud hiss+buzz if source not connected or if source is connected without volume control and in absence of input (i.e. music signal muted at the source but source connected). Noise disappears and amp is completely silent as soon as input signal appears
3 - If a passive volume control is added between source (external DAC) and amplifier the buzz increases turning the volume up (which suggests some grounding interference picked up from the DAC)
3 - If the source is not my external DAC but for example the analog output of an ipod or airport express or pc the buzz increases with volume but disappears completely at full volume
Also is there any grounding recommendation for this amp? Setup is external DAC to B1 pre to blue/black board. I play Flac files wireless via airport express.
Any suggestion or share of your experience is super appreciated.
Wooden enclosures
Marcel,
To answer/address only part of your post, let me just say I run YJ 2.0 red boards and also other varieties of chip amps ONLY in wooden enclosures and experience absolutely no noise, hum, etc.
Since you are fairly inexperienced at building (hope that's correct - and I'm no expert like some of these fellows for sure!) just be sure to pay close attention to things like solder joints and wiring...keep input signal wires away from output wires, etc. What I'm saying is something else might be causing the noise problems. Isolate/eliminate gear as much as possible then listen again.
Really, I don't do anything special and have had spectacular results. Spurious noise drives me crazy and I just don't have it.
Mark
Marcel,
To answer/address only part of your post, let me just say I run YJ 2.0 red boards and also other varieties of chip amps ONLY in wooden enclosures and experience absolutely no noise, hum, etc.
Since you are fairly inexperienced at building (hope that's correct - and I'm no expert like some of these fellows for sure!) just be sure to pay close attention to things like solder joints and wiring...keep input signal wires away from output wires, etc. What I'm saying is something else might be causing the noise problems. Isolate/eliminate gear as much as possible then listen again.
Really, I don't do anything special and have had spectacular results. Spurious noise drives me crazy and I just don't have it.
Mark
Mark, Thank you for your quick reply. I suspect the DAC for part of the induced noise although I have read that some had noise issues due to poor soldering in some of these boards and were solved by retouching a few joints. Visual inspection does not show anything obvious. Even after eliminating the DAC and feeding the amp directly from ipod or airport express the background noise is still there. I read that most boards are silent (except for turn on/off) and was wondering if anybody experienced the same issues.
Marcel, have you tried measuring Ohm on you potmeter? Maybe you have a faulty one? Also check rca (-) continutity from input rca and all the way to the chip(a bad input cap or soldering point can create noise). A short at the input traces will also cause your symptoms. Btw, my friend dropped my board from 1 cm height and a ceramic cap broke and caused a similar sitation for me🙁
If you have like ca 94db speakers and 32db gain I belive your situation can occur with a "good" stock board. But I doubt it🙂
If you have like ca 94db speakers and 32db gain I belive your situation can occur with a "good" stock board. But I doubt it🙂
Thank you Impulse60, I will check for continuity throughout the board, the pot looks okay. I wanted to change some of the components but would like to make sure first that the board is okay. When playing, the noise is not an issue and I don't hear any artifacts, but I doubt there would be such praise for this amp if everyone was having these issues, so I will keep investigating
Those leads on those OSCONS are very long, and might be acting like an antenna picking up emi from the inductors.
Added OSCONs to the vcc pins on both sides, don't seem to hear any improvement. I think it might actually sound a little more dull?? Perhaps it will open up in time?
Thank you Impulse60, I will check for continuity throughout the board, the pot looks okay. I wanted to change some of the components but would like to make sure first that the board is okay. When playing, the noise is not an issue and I don't hear any artifacts, but I doubt there would be such praise for this amp if everyone was having these issues, so I will keep investigating
Situation isn't very clear to me. I read dac-B1pre-3116 but also many references to a pot and "direct" and/or all kind of volumecontrols in different places being used. Was this an existing situation that played with another poweramp?
Added OSCONs to the vcc pins on both sides, don't seem to hear any improvement. I think it might actually sound a little more dull?? Perhaps it will open up in time?
On MarkAudio speakers:
Panasonic FM has a little lifted midrange causing some sibilance sometimes or you could say they sound snappy if you like it. They attenuate treble a little and lose detail there, I mentioned cymbals becoming just noise befor. Oscons attenuate treble, but do not lose detail, but do lose mid and high dynamics. They sound restrained, that is different from FM that pushes focals a little forward as a manner of speaking, mid sounds very dynamic. Now combine and see what happens 🙂 Oscons need 100 hour to sound the way I tried to describe.
On MarkAudio speakers:
Panasonic FM has a little lifted midrange causing some sibilance sometimes or you could say they sound snappy if you like it. They attenuate treble a little and lose detail there, I mentioned cymbals becoming just noise befor. Oscons attenuate treble, but do not lose detail, but do lose mid and high dynamics. They sound restrained, that is different from FM that pushes focals a little forward as a manner of speaking, mid sounds very dynamic. Now combine and see what happens 🙂 Oscons need 100 hour to sound the way I tried to describe.
Talking of MA drivers my experience with Alpair 10.3 and 7.3 is that the high frequencies are incredibly detailed and extended - amazing for a full range driver. I have recently owned speakers with Fostex 90A super tweeters (cost $200 each) and I have to say I prefer the high frequencies of the MA.
Pairing the MA driver with a DUG 3116 amp (with above mentioned Oscons) provides for incredibly dynamic and detailed sounds that I simply do not tire of. Down side is that the combo is so revealing that less than good recordings can get a bit tiring and harsh but the good recordings are stunning.
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