Thank you, that confirms that I had identified the correct solder points. Also confirms that I'm not quite ready to play "micro surgeon" on this board (not yet anyway). I have a hacked up YJBlue board which is trivial to work on (by comparison anyway).
Thank you for the further info, and added confirmation to take the easy approach with YJBlue for my first pass on using the xformer. 🙂
It's never too late. 🙂 Well, too late for me, but I'm certain someone else is out there lurking and will find that incredibly useful.
Anyway, I went with the Edcor TTPC15K/15K. Pics of just the transformer assembly below.
As I said above, I wanted to use it with the Ybdz board, but the microscopic soldering scared me away. So I pulled out my "Frankenstein" YJBlue board. This is the first YJBlue board I ever bought, and likewise the first I ever did any hacking on. Mods it has:
- Bourns 2300HT-220-V-RC1322 (22uH) output filter inductor coils
- Panasonic PP 680uF output filter caps
- Panasonic FC 2200uF cap across the input DC
- Elna Silmic II 25V / 330uF DC decoupling caps (done before OSCON became the "standard")
- 20dB gain setting = 60kOhm input impedance
- Bootstrap snubber mod
- Ceramic X7R boostrap caps
And now the Edcor 15k/15k input transformers.
Prior to this, for the last few weeks my "go to" amp was the Sure tpa3110 (new board), stock except for changing all eight caps to OSCON.
I hadn't listened to this tpa3116 in a while; it had been my "go to" amp until I built the Sure tpa3110.
I haven't had a lot of time to really "get to know" the 3116 + transformer sound (I only did it this morning!), but so far I really like what I hear. My initial overall assessment is that it sounds very "natural"... everything seems to be nicely balanced.
I think what I'll do next is to build a new YJBlue to replace this one. I'll do all the same mods, except I'll use OSCONs and probably the big Coilcraft inductors. Then I'll put it in a case with the Edcor transformers. That, or maybe the new YJ Audiobah clone (since it's more competitively priced). Is the SMD soldering on the Audiobah board any better than the Ybdz (i.e. are the pads bigger)? I'd also like to give that one a try.
I also need to build up some kind of hardware volume control. Right now I'm using software volume control. I'm listening to 16/44 red book CDs, but I have the bit depth set to 24 in Foobar, so in theory, it's still outputting bitperfect audio to my DAC, and using the extra bits for volume info. But I'm not sure of that.
I posted lots of eye candy for everyone.
Attachments
@matt_garman
Is there a difference in sound quality with or without using the the signal ground of the tpa3116 ?
Is there a difference in sound quality with or without using the the signal ground of the tpa3116 ?
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Glad you are enjoying this setup, thanks for the pics.
Its not easy (well I don't find it easy) to identify SQ changes immediately especially if there is nothing to make a direct comparison to. Longer term listening is often more revealing. However good to hear your positive comments.
Do you think the transformers make as much difference as other mods you have done?
Look forward to further evaluations.
built this TPA3116 and miniDSP box for some active studio-monitor speaker projects. Used a pair of amps to give me 4 active channels. It is my first audio electronics build. I have not modded anything yet. Parts list
- pair of YJ red 2.0 TPA3116 boards
- miniDSP 2x4
- meanwell NES150
- XLR inputs (to make wiring easier even though miniDSP is not balanced)
overall my impressions are really quite good. Listening to it with some fostex FF105wk sealed speakers now. Building some Satori MW16 + dayton RS28F 2ways now.
The only problem is the background noise (when there is no signal). I can hear this faint white noise even at 0.5 meters away. When I disconnect the miniDSP (no input) the noise is still there. Guess it could be my layout, wiring, proximity to power supply, or maybe it is just inherent in this YJ red TPA3116 board.
I bought these parts based on some of the threads I had read, but now that I know more, I realize I should have not gone so cheap on the TPA board. Have now ordered a pair of YJ blue/black boards. It will be tight to fit them in this box, but I think I can move things around. Also thinking about moving the power supply to a separate box, but I don't hear any hums, so not sure if this will help much. Might consider a linear PS in the future, but no rush.
If anyone sees something obviously wrong with my layout/wiring which might explain the noise, I would appreciate any advice. Hoping the YJ blue/black will even sound better.
But overall I am impressed and like it much better than the cheap lepai T amp I bought first for testing the miniDSP and drivers.
- pair of YJ red 2.0 TPA3116 boards
- miniDSP 2x4
- meanwell NES150
- XLR inputs (to make wiring easier even though miniDSP is not balanced)
overall my impressions are really quite good. Listening to it with some fostex FF105wk sealed speakers now. Building some Satori MW16 + dayton RS28F 2ways now.
The only problem is the background noise (when there is no signal). I can hear this faint white noise even at 0.5 meters away. When I disconnect the miniDSP (no input) the noise is still there. Guess it could be my layout, wiring, proximity to power supply, or maybe it is just inherent in this YJ red TPA3116 board.
I bought these parts based on some of the threads I had read, but now that I know more, I realize I should have not gone so cheap on the TPA board. Have now ordered a pair of YJ blue/black boards. It will be tight to fit them in this box, but I think I can move things around. Also thinking about moving the power supply to a separate box, but I don't hear any hums, so not sure if this will help much. Might consider a linear PS in the future, but no rush.
If anyone sees something obviously wrong with my layout/wiring which might explain the noise, I would appreciate any advice. Hoping the YJ blue/black will even sound better.
But overall I am impressed and like it much better than the cheap lepai T amp I bought first for testing the miniDSP and drivers.
Attachments
Use shielded RCA cables between miniDSP and amp and keep power supplies farther away from amp. I have no hiss issues.
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The SMD solder pads on the Audiobah are definitely bigger than the YBDZ. Having said that, I managed fine with the YBDZ and I am very clumsy/unskilled at soldering and working with an 8GBP soldering iron since my adjustable one packed up. I soldered short pieces of 28AWG silver wire to the pads and then used these to make connections to 24AWG Neotech silver which runs to the transformers. Having the short & thin lengths attached to the board makes mounting and unmounting the board for mods much easier/safer as you can desolder between the two wires rather than desoldering at the board. So far so good.
I would like to cautiously suggest that if the difference between transformers and input caps is not instantly putting a huge smile on your face then it is possible the Edcors are not giving quite the sound quality that some of the more expensive transformers are. I guess this makes a degree of sense, but is disappointing if true. Looking forward to hearing more about your impressions as you get used to the sound. 🙂
Edit P.S. I just remembered that signal transformers can take quite a while to 'burn in'. It might be worth leaving the system running 24/7 for a few days?
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xrk971 wrote :
The board has four OSCON 330 mF/25V in place, producing the same capacitor value than the six original caps 220 mF/35V.
Sound is quite good 😎
Thank to Rhing for suggestions this mod 🙂
The board has four OSCON 330 mF/25V in place, producing the same capacitor value than the six original caps 220 mF/35V.
Sound is quite good 😎
Thank to Rhing for suggestions this mod 🙂
Actually, this all started with wushuliu using the hybrid caps and CoilCraft inductors in the YJ blue amp.
Easy question here....
Can anyone tell me where (eBay link?) to get the little connectors that would work to connect the white colored INPUT jack/part of the Yuanjing 2.0 red
tpa3116D board?
In the past I've de-soldered that white connector jack and hardwired. Guess I'm getting lazy.
I don't even know what these are called. And I've been trying to find them on eBay for awhile now. I'm guessing they are some standard thing.
Thanks,
Mark
Can anyone tell me where (eBay link?) to get the little connectors that would work to connect the white colored INPUT jack/part of the Yuanjing 2.0 red
tpa3116D board?
In the past I've de-soldered that white connector jack and hardwired. Guess I'm getting lazy.
I don't even know what these are called. And I've been trying to find them on eBay for awhile now. I'm guessing they are some standard thing.
Thanks,
Mark
I've bought these on ebay:
DZ223 10pcs 3 Pins Connector Leads Head XH2 54 2 54mm Connector Kit DIP | eBay
"3 pins Connector leads Head XH2.54 2.54mm connector kit" - that's what the auction title says....
But, not before I purchased another batch, which were much too small - obviously those were connectors for LiPo batteries 🙁
HTH,
Denis
Thank you Denis
Hey...thanks for that. I just bought 10 pieces.
Now, dumb question.......how do you hook the wires? Just push things together?
Mark
Hey...thanks for that. I just bought 10 pieces.
Now, dumb question.......how do you hook the wires? Just push things together?
Mark
For future reference...I am gathering it's the "pitch" or spacing between the pins that's the important part of buying these types of connectors?
Of course there's what I'll call the "thickness" of the white connector on the board as well to contend with. In other words the connector you are wishing to purchase must fit in the connector on the board. If it's too fat...(but the spacing is still correct) still won't fit.
How do I know what to buy in the future when looking for something like this? Is there a number or term or something to look for?
Thanks Denis and everyone else who replies.
Mark
Of course there's what I'll call the "thickness" of the white connector on the board as well to contend with. In other words the connector you are wishing to purchase must fit in the connector on the board. If it's too fat...(but the spacing is still correct) still won't fit.
How do I know what to buy in the future when looking for something like this? Is there a number or term or something to look for?
Thanks Denis and everyone else who replies.
Mark
Question on Decoupling caps
With reference to the YJ blue/black board, there is one big and one small decoupling capacitor for each channel. The default value for my board is 1uf of both big and small caps.
Have a few questions on these:
1. In case of changes/upgrades, both caps should be changed? Or does changing the bigger cap make more of a difference?
2. Do both caps need to be upgraded to same value e.g. 1uf big cap, 1uf small cap to 2.2 uf big, 2.2 uf small or keeping them dissimilar in values is ok e.g. 2.2uf big, 1uf small?
3. There is another 1uf cap right in front of the input socket - does that need to be changed/tweaked?
Thanks in advance.
With reference to the YJ blue/black board, there is one big and one small decoupling capacitor for each channel. The default value for my board is 1uf of both big and small caps.
Have a few questions on these:
1. In case of changes/upgrades, both caps should be changed? Or does changing the bigger cap make more of a difference?
2. Do both caps need to be upgraded to same value e.g. 1uf big cap, 1uf small cap to 2.2 uf big, 2.2 uf small or keeping them dissimilar in values is ok e.g. 2.2uf big, 1uf small?
3. There is another 1uf cap right in front of the input socket - does that need to be changed/tweaked?
Thanks in advance.
1. Bigger cap is the + input and more important.
2. Some say should be same value as the - input ones (2 smaller caps), some say not! I changed to similar physical size cap as original with same capacitance as the upgraded big ones but may not be necessary.
3. 3rd cap not associated with input caps, ok to leave.
Thanks Chris!
If I recall correctly you finalized at 2.2uf for your inputs? Sorry, but you have been improving the amp stage by stage and I might be wrong. 🙂
Also if I understand correctly, folks have tried out various values in excess of 4.7uf also, but most have settled down to 2.2uf or 3.3 uf?
If I recall correctly you finalized at 2.2uf for your inputs? Sorry, but you have been improving the amp stage by stage and I might be wrong. 🙂
Also if I understand correctly, folks have tried out various values in excess of 4.7uf also, but most have settled down to 2.2uf or 3.3 uf?
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Yes WIMA MKP10 2.2uf for the large ones and MKS2 2.2uf for the small ones.
Depends on the gain/impedance setting but for 26db gain but 2.2uf is a common value, some prefer larger but I personally doubt the bass extension would be audible. The MKP10 are as large as you can fit on the board and still be a reasonable quality cap.
I wouldn't put too much stock in my report, for better or worse. I was deliberately light on detail because I can't really make any useful comments at this point. For one, it's not an apples-to-apples comparison: I haven't listened to this particular amp in a while, so I don't really have a frame of reference for before versus after.
Another difference is that, besides this being a different amp than I'm used to as of late, I changed my setup: I haven't yet implemented hardware volume control, and am instead doing it in software. In short, too many variables changing at once.
As for "instantly putting a huge smile on my face": well, it certainly did, but mostly because it actually worked! The hacking I've been doing on these tpa311x amps is the fanciest stuff I've ever done; I'm still very much a novice. My "DIY Audio Resume" is short and unimpressive (but starting to look better, I think). So just doing something that actually results in a working amp is a win for me at this point!
But as far as the sound quality putting a smile on my face: I've been smiling for a while now, to be honest. The new Sure tpa3110 board with the OSCON cap mod is good enough for me. For the time being, I'm not so much pursuing better sound quality, but just enjoy the tinkering and experimentation.
But, I can confidently say it's not a downgrade, that's for sure. It's at worst a lateral move. But for me, it does remove any turn-on or off popping. So it's a win in that regard. 🙂
Yeah, for whatever reason, it just takes a while for some sonic differences to "sink in". But the funny thing is, once they do surface, they become glaringly obvious. As in, "How did I not notice that right away?" Maybe an analogy is like a stuck pixel on a monitor: you might not notice it for days or even years. But then once you do notice, you can't stop seeing it.
Maybe? I haven't really kept notes on what mods I found to have the most impact. When I first started hacking on the YJBlue board, I don't even think I listened to it at all in stock form! If I did, it was only a quick test to make sure it worked. But, especially early on (how long has this thread been live now?), many mods I just blindly copied from what others were doing, as much for the "tuition" as for actual sonic improvements. Many of the mods (especially this board with the transformers) were done in batches too, so it's hard to say if it was one mod or the combination of them that made the difference.
The most recent mod I did on the new Sure tpa3110 board definitely was a dramatic improvement. But a lot of the other mods have been more subtle for me, and I've only realized them, as suggested above, after spending some time with them.
Glad to hear that Matt and apologies if I expressed myself clumsily (a common problem for me). I guess that I am overly keen to hear that cheaper transformers are available that will give SQ comparable to the more expensive ones, even though the international delivery costs on Edcor make them not good value to me. I have my main system pretty much done, but also planning bedroom/computer setups, etc. 🙂
What effect would having 6x330 uF caps in there, changing the capacitance value?? How would it sound different theoretically?