Sure3116
It sounds good. Beater than YJ red. Both not modded.
It's interesting to read about poor performance of Sure amp. It has all those nice little features implemented and still sounding bad? 🙁 My understanding is that, apart from pop transistors and output diode rectifiers, the board is as datasheet suggests.
It could be bad PCB layout, but my bet is that those rectifying diodes are not helping the issue. So replacing those diodes with straight wire could help or then there might be something else that is not right. 😉 Either way I'm very interested to hear, if someone manages to solve issues related to Sure board.
It sounds good. Beater than YJ red. Both not modded.
I thought the Sure TPA3116 sounded pretty good stock, and it improved after replacing the power supply caps with Panasonic SEPF OSCONs. However, the amp has a turn-off pop that seems to have gotten worse over time. On top of that, I hear a ground hum now. I contacted Sure, but no reply yet. I really like my Sure TPA3110 amp, which is pretty basic compared to the Sure TPA3116. Hopefully, Sure Electronics will get some of these issues sorted out.
In the meantime, I've contacted DUG regarding his group buy TPA3116/3118 PBTL boards. I don't need PBTL, but I do want to try some high quality boards that easily accommodate the CoilCraft inductors.
In the meantime, I've contacted DUG regarding his group buy TPA3116/3118 PBTL boards. I don't need PBTL, but I do want to try some high quality boards that easily accommodate the CoilCraft inductors.
The YJ amp before mods had a very faint turn-off pop (really almost a click). When I tried a pair of 3.3uF/160V Wima MKP10 film caps on the inputs, the pop became more audible.
For sure, as the capacitance increases, charge transfer increases too. (Which results in louder "plop")
A crude solution to this is to modify the SDZ input with a weak-pullup and a strong pull-down with the voltage level a bit over the minimum TTL high-level.
With this, the amp mutes nearly immediately when power is disconnected.
Another solution is to put a switch just to SDZ to power-down the amp (outputs muted) before disconnecting. (Or implementing a 2-stage-power-down circuit)
...I don't need PBTL, but ...
You think you need BTL, Oscons, Coilcraft, ceramic's for bootstraps, Astron linear PSU, Cinemags better or close to equal audio transformers on input of the ampboard. Why not dual mono PBTL? 😉
I'm glad I held off on buying the Sure 3116. I have been using a Sure 3110 for almost a year and have always liked it. The only mods on it were replacing the power caps with some Panasonic FC. Hopefully Sure will get this right. I have always liked the products.
I'm glad I held off on buying the Sure 3116. I have been using a Sure 3110 for almost a year and have always liked it. The only mods on it were replacing the power caps with some Panasonic FC. Hopefully Sure will get this right. I have always liked the products.
FWIW....
I've had 5 of them now and with only caps changed to Oscons, they all sound very good and I have minimal turn-on and turn-off issues. (quietest of all the 3116s I've tried actually.)
FYI...the newest boards from Sure have the output polarity corrected.
Attachments
FYI...the newest boards from Sure have the output polarity corrected.
That is good news 🙂
You think you need BTL, Oscons, Coilcraft, ceramic's for bootstraps, Astron linear PSU, Cinemags better or close to equal audio transformers on input of the ampboard. Why not dual mono PBTL? 😉
I'm considering Lundahl LL1690 input transformers for this one. 😀
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I'm considering Lundahl LL1690 input transformers for this one. 😀
Doesn't your preamp have 2uF dcblocking output capacitors? ... does that mean when using 3116 only in your system you don't need inputcapacitors on (positive) signal even without Lundahl or Cinemag?
edit: seems 20dB gain could be better then: LS7: 200 ohms main output. Recommended load 60K ohms and 100pF (20K ohms minimum and 1000pF maximum)
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FWIW....
I've had 5 of them now and with only caps changed to Oscons, they all sound very good and I have minimal turn-on and turn-off issues. (quietest of all the 3116s I've tried actually.)
FYI...the newest boards from Sure have the output polarity corrected.
I ordered a month ago from Sure and received the 3116 three days ago.
They certainly did not send me the revised board!
Like I said previously,if I had ordered through Ebay I would have left a negative rating.
Sure TPA3116 amp
I ordered mine on the 6th and tracked it. So it should be here tomorrow or Monday. So its not so fast nor so slow in my case. I ordered direct from Sure, so I want to see if I too get the updated version.
I ordered mine on the 6th and tracked it. So it should be here tomorrow or Monday. So its not so fast nor so slow in my case. I ordered direct from Sure, so I want to see if I too get the updated version.
...
$160 each..
Why not...someone has to do it, in fact, it might make all the difference in the world. And besides it only money and a hobby 😀
But if you really have the urge to splurge. Get the LL1948Ag version that has the high purity silver wire coils that are only a mere $ 800 each 😛
I'm considering Lundahl LL1690 input transformers for this one. 😀
$160 each..
Why not...someone has to do it, in fact, it might make all the difference in the world. And besides it only money and a hobby 😀
But if you really have the urge to splurge. Get the LL1948Ag version that has the high purity silver wire coils that are only a mere $ 800 each 😛
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I'm really happy with LL1540 transformers, but suspect that LL1690 would be a significant improvement
$160 is cheap compared to what folks spend on fancy class A tube amps. But for that much money I can get a 2x4 miniDSP, a couple of 3116 amps and all the parts to mod it (sans trafo's).
$160 is cheap compared to what folks spend on fancy class A tube amps. But for that much money I can get a 2x4 miniDSP, a couple of 3116 amps and all the parts to mod it (sans trafo's).
Agreed
some advice on output snubbers
Hope someone can help to address this doubt.
thks
Hi
I have the old YJ red board.
The output snubbers consist of 4.7 R and 10 n . I notice the datasheet suggest 331 capacitors and 10 R.
Is this value usable and serves its purpose ?
Secondly the output snubbers is placed after the inductor and before the speaker terminal . Is this location ok ?
thks
kp93300
Hope someone can help to address this doubt.
thks
Hope someone can help to address this doubt.
thks
TI datasheet has 10nF and 3.3 Ohm outputsnubber, as an option on EVM. 330pF/10 Ohm is snubber befor inductors, that might prevent RF output being returned to chip by bootstrap ??? Ampboards sounds significantly calmer with prefilter snubber here.
Hi all, I have a question on a portable speaker im building. I have this amp TPA3116 Class D 2x50W AMP
DC 24V TPA3116 Class D 2X50W Amp Kit Stereo Audio Amplifier Assembled Board 100W | eBay
wired to have aux and Bluetooth. Im running it all of 12v and all is good. For Bluetooth im running a usb Bluetooth audio receiver that runs on 5v. Im using a 12v to 5v converter
DC to DC Converter Step Down Module 7V 9V 12V 24V to 5V USB Output Power Adapter | eBay
But the only problem is that when I use the converter to power the Bluetooth module I get a strange noise and buzzing sound. What is the problem and how to remove the sound, I have heard that it has to be grounded or something to do with a ground loop. If anyone could help It would be greatly appreciated.
DC 24V TPA3116 Class D 2X50W Amp Kit Stereo Audio Amplifier Assembled Board 100W | eBay
wired to have aux and Bluetooth. Im running it all of 12v and all is good. For Bluetooth im running a usb Bluetooth audio receiver that runs on 5v. Im using a 12v to 5v converter
DC to DC Converter Step Down Module 7V 9V 12V 24V to 5V USB Output Power Adapter | eBay
But the only problem is that when I use the converter to power the Bluetooth module I get a strange noise and buzzing sound. What is the problem and how to remove the sound, I have heard that it has to be grounded or something to do with a ground loop. If anyone could help It would be greatly appreciated.
I read the cinemags are less vulnerable for hum then LL1690 and distortion 15/15B is lower.
Is this the Web article you are referencing?
DDDAC 1794 deel 5
Very interesting.

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