😉
Most popular mods using most popular parts on the most popular 3116ampboard. The most popular mods need to be easy and quick. The most popular mods more importantly need to LOOK different. Most popular parts are parts looking different the most. A succesfull modded board looks modded, real different.
We would like lists of Best parts to select from without thought. We like models if conclusion simplifies things. Models that let us see we won't hear a difference, and can just select parts from Best list, equal parts for all different situations, result always best.
Sharing that most popular, best, could sound metallic and blunt is missing.(Newly delivered from China most popular board is worst sounding, that might be added to Wiki too)
Once in a while somebody will mention a certain populair part isn't really suited.
Regarding your sound. Suppose room/speaker has nothing to do with it and ampboard does.
Trouble shooting Dclass points to outputfilter for treble problems. The toroids you selected, blue/white?blue/yellow? core, are maybe not optimal for frequencyrange here to start. Some have reported this befor. Google "toroid inductor core color" and have a look at ideal frequency range. I own a totall different ampboard that standard has toroids in outputfilter, color2. Yes, you guessed right, most popular mod there is to replace them for shielded inductors.
Filtervalues might not be optimal for speaker, yes speakerimpedance is part of it, uncomfortably. Cap/inductor might not be optimal, snubbers might not be optimal for treble. YJblue has 5 or 6 or 10 ohm postfiltersnubber resistor, who knows maybe more variations, with a constant impedance for highfrequencies? (ribbon?) you could have an outputsnubber that hardly ever conducts anything, which might be ok, I dont really know, putting 3.3 ohm on my board certainly did opposite to blunt-ing treble, and frankly did what was opposite of my expectation.
Decoupling location and size/type can improve treble. Small ceramics need to be closer to chip, generally accepted/acknowledged, on your YJblue you could use SMD COG 100nF much closer to chippin, that will even be 100nF with 19V DC applied, opposed to the probably close to 20nF ? at best for ceramics on YJblue. You could put normal ceramic SMD between 1 and 10uF for example on positions you removed the current 100nF's. (If Elfa is still offering 1uF COG SMD ceramics, be warned, not COG, they actually are Y5😡). Not very populair mod, hardly visable🙄
Oscons are nice, but if treble remains a problem I would try one of the Chemicons, normal sized wet ones, from groupchart Low profile powersupply output filter. For me highs of KY are clearly superior (with different sizes tried highs are consistant, bass isn't), for me highs and bass of KZH are clearly superior (1 size tried🙂), others might be better, haven't tried others from Chemicon. They all seem to be brown, some for selling purposes have green picture at Mouser's but when delivered appear to be brown too, bummer 🙂 Rubycon ZLH is also very detailed in high's, but a little more forward, to de-blunt they might even be better. (Innitially ZLH when delivered from Elfa, highs were very much more forward and my 1000uF also had some sibilance then. Leaving them powered for 1 week homecinema/tv duty has changed that).
Today I also did the snubber mod on my second board using 390pf silver mica(couldnot find any 330pf and cost only 1US$ each), after 3 hours burn in, the highs are more clean and more body. Hard edges were much reduced and even better than my snubber mod on the blue/black board using film caps. Overall this is better than the blue/black with less modification. Both use the same power supply.
hi chaps, I'm a bit late coming to this thread so please be patient with me. I've bought one of the amps
in this link, mainly to do some loudspeaker testing, or so I thought..
TPA3116 Class D Digital Power Amplifier Board Inductor Circuit Design 50W+50W | eBay
I'm gobsmacked!, it's brilliant!
I switched out my single ended SV572 to test it and I havn't gone back yet...It's very revealing,
probably a little bit sharp, but very very musical. It doesn't sound like any of the class T amps I've
heard in the past so it's going to stay in the main system for a while, to get the big picture. I have it running from my classic squeezebox into own design fostex FE206 TQWP, and I can only run it on 3% volume, its very sensitive with 96db speakers...awesome.
There are two teensy weeny problems though, which I'm hoping may have been discussed here. I've done many searches on this thread but found nothing close.
I have turn-off thump, or more realistically, turn off click. I was going to hook my full range
electrostatics up but I'm reluctant because I know from experience that clicks and thumps are the very worst enemy of electrostatics. I have lost transformers in the past due to switching clicks.
Has any body experienced this with these circuits, and if so, any hints on how to curtail it????
The amp is also very quick to pick up any sibilence. I am guessing this might be connected with the fact that it oscillates, or at least I think it does. There is a bat whistle type of high pitched frequency just out of my range(14k ish). I have briefly tried the scope on it but failed to find the signal. The scope does pick up findamental hash at between 300k and 400k but I'm guessing that is class D artifacts.
Any pointers would be appreciated because as can be seen I'm a newby to class D.
thanks
Ed
in this link, mainly to do some loudspeaker testing, or so I thought..
TPA3116 Class D Digital Power Amplifier Board Inductor Circuit Design 50W+50W | eBay
I'm gobsmacked!, it's brilliant!
I switched out my single ended SV572 to test it and I havn't gone back yet...It's very revealing,
probably a little bit sharp, but very very musical. It doesn't sound like any of the class T amps I've
heard in the past so it's going to stay in the main system for a while, to get the big picture. I have it running from my classic squeezebox into own design fostex FE206 TQWP, and I can only run it on 3% volume, its very sensitive with 96db speakers...awesome.
There are two teensy weeny problems though, which I'm hoping may have been discussed here. I've done many searches on this thread but found nothing close.
I have turn-off thump, or more realistically, turn off click. I was going to hook my full range
electrostatics up but I'm reluctant because I know from experience that clicks and thumps are the very worst enemy of electrostatics. I have lost transformers in the past due to switching clicks.
Has any body experienced this with these circuits, and if so, any hints on how to curtail it????
The amp is also very quick to pick up any sibilence. I am guessing this might be connected with the fact that it oscillates, or at least I think it does. There is a bat whistle type of high pitched frequency just out of my range(14k ish). I have briefly tried the scope on it but failed to find the signal. The scope does pick up findamental hash at between 300k and 400k but I'm guessing that is class D artifacts.
Any pointers would be appreciated because as can be seen I'm a newby to class D.
thanks
Ed
did you guys see those two boards on ebay?
ebay-no:
261575408970
and
261575408046
hey look really small!
ebay-no:
261575408970
and
261575408046
hey look really small!
Welcome aboard Ed. You bought the YJ blue/black aka the Danzz amp. If you think it sound a good stock, wait to you try these mods in this order:
1. Swap main power caps for Panasonic SEPF 330uF 25v OSCON's.
2. Swap the bootstrap caps to ceramic TDK 220nF 50v.
3. Add 330pF 50V and 10ohm 1/4 watt thin film bootstrap snubbers.
4. 3.3uF 250V poly metal caps on inputs.
More complicated is your turn on/off thump. There is a cap/resistor diode circuit called the Giancarlo mod.
You need to search for these mods but #1 will give immediate and huge improvement.
Good luck
xrk971 said:
Note the Giancarlo mod had more detailed discussion outside of this thread on the TI forums ("e2e forums" or something like that iirc, don't have my notes handy).
Anyway, that mod fixes only the turn ON pop. Giancarlo said that fixing the turn OFF pop would require a fancier circuit (involving a transistor iirc).
I've never had problems with turn ON thump, but some of my tpa311x amps have turn OFF thumps. My low tech/poor man's fix is to incorporate a switch that shorts the "SD" (shut down) pin to ground. I haven't done this on a YJBlue board, but it's trivial on boards like Ybdz and new Sure 3110 - they provide headers to those pins.
One of my board implemented a simple mute switch to Pin 12 and works fine, everytime I turn on/off the amp, I switch to mute first.
There is not a lot of heat there but whatever you use needs to be flexible so that the thermal expansion doesn't debond it. I think epoxy is too stiff. Silicone RTV caulking also works well and has good thermal conductivity.
where can I get a shielded audio input wire perhaps similar to used here?
Attachments
did addition of beads and cap make any audioable difference?, what cap? on just + terminal?
All,
I've been developing a 2.1 type "base board" solution that would be able to accomodate many of the TPA3116 boards as well as the TP2050 or TDA7492 type boards. The idea is to develop a base board that provides the preamp functionality such as DC power control, volume control, crossover functionality, summing, and so on.
The board I'm designing would fit inside a sure amplifier case available over at Parts Express, and various amplifier boards would be able to piggy-back onto this base board. I have a thread discussing the design on the Parts Express Techtalk forum, here:
The DIY 2.1 amplifier. Should I build it? Would you buy it?
I would certainly appreciate a good review of the schematics/layout/ideas that are posted so far. I know that the amplifier boards would need rework to accommodate conversion to PBTL, etc... That is additional work that would need to be done when fitting the system. The whole point is to give a quality 2.1 desktop solution using readily available amp boards like the YJ TPA3116 blue/black board. Anyways, I welcome your feedback.
Latest schematics attached. I'll post a picture of the current layout here later today.
I've been developing a 2.1 type "base board" solution that would be able to accomodate many of the TPA3116 boards as well as the TP2050 or TDA7492 type boards. The idea is to develop a base board that provides the preamp functionality such as DC power control, volume control, crossover functionality, summing, and so on.
The board I'm designing would fit inside a sure amplifier case available over at Parts Express, and various amplifier boards would be able to piggy-back onto this base board. I have a thread discussing the design on the Parts Express Techtalk forum, here:
The DIY 2.1 amplifier. Should I build it? Would you buy it?
I would certainly appreciate a good review of the schematics/layout/ideas that are posted so far. I know that the amplifier boards would need rework to accommodate conversion to PBTL, etc... That is additional work that would need to be done when fitting the system. The whole point is to give a quality 2.1 desktop solution using readily available amp boards like the YJ TPA3116 blue/black board. Anyways, I welcome your feedback.
Latest schematics attached. I'll post a picture of the current layout here later today.
re "baseboard"
This one came to mind, just for their own boards, ever seen it?
HTM AUDIO UK QUALITY ENERGY EFFICIENT DIGITAL AMPLIFIERS
This one came to mind, just for their own boards, ever seen it?
HTM AUDIO UK QUALITY ENERGY EFFICIENT DIGITAL AMPLIFIERS
How would this cable work as short RCA interconnects? I want to make some about 6" to connect Dac/3 tube preamp/TPA3116. I like that it's very thin, about 1/8"
If you have RCA plugs with removable shells and solder inserts it is easy. Best way is to use crimp type coaxial BNC connectors (need crimp tool) and a BNC to RCA adapter. Unless you can find RCA crimp terminals - which I have not seen. The crimp tool is pricey though but is useful for many professional looking cable installs and builds.
Look under Pasternack Enterprises for the crimp connectors and adapters.
Look under Pasternack Enterprises for the crimp connectors and adapters.
Thanks for the suggestions. I plan to use solder type RCA's. I just wonder if the inexpensive cable is shielded good enough to use for short interconnects?
Yes, the RG-174 is quite well shielded and used for instrumentation amps. It has a braided wire mesh shield.