I just tested the 3110 from Sure. It maxes out at 10 volt rms. I was driving 6.5 ohm speakers so that is about 15 watts. Seems like there is a limiter.
A 19V Packard Bell destroyed little Sure tpa3110. The PB laptop brick measured 19.5V afterwards, the voltage limit in specs for the little Sure is real...
The Sure 3110 board is printed with 8v to 19v for J6 Vcc. I can't imagine 19.5 would fry it.
19.5V was unplugged from DCinput on Surepcb while playing music, maximum loudness bang/crack, speakers at Xmax. After that just DC !!! to speakers for little time till tpa protection cuts signal, so tpa might still be ok.
Even without Plimit I guess heat limits power in tpa3110 graphs.
Sure also sells a 15W tpa3110, there are more then 1 suretpa3110, I refer to little filterless one
Even without Plimit I guess heat limits power in tpa3110 graphs.
Sure also sells a 15W tpa3110, there are more then 1 suretpa3110, I refer to little filterless one
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Home again at last. Quickly soldered some 1uF MKS onto Wieners 680nF's and ...
such relief after more then 2 weeks listening to 6 ceilingspeakers (they didn't kill the YJblue, but I didn't want to listen to what was wrong with YJblue now, just wanted to relax a little, and my Hiampminis were not home) 😀

19.5V was unplugged from DCinput on Surepcb while playing music, maximum loudness bang/crack, speakers at Xmax. After that just DC !!! to speakers for little time till tpa protection cuts signal, so tpa might still be ok.
Even without Plimit I guess heat limits power in tpa3110 graphs.
Sure also sells a 15W tpa3110, there are more then 1 suretpa3110, I refer to little filterless one
I have the filterless ones and the max power stress test sure got the chip hot - it uses via conduction to PCB for cooling and chip was too hot to touch. It smelled like a hot soldering iron 😀 I was driving a 10 watt 3ohm resistor and that was too hot to touch too but the amp kept going. You got like how bullet proof the TPA's are.
3 ohm is a little below TIdatasheet 😀 Zobeled 3 ohm speakers don't cause much heat on little sure3110, same speakers make a Hifimediy amp become burning hot 😀
When an amp says it can handle a 4 ohm speaker the DC resistance is typically 3.5 ohms so I was close. 😀 Nonetheless, nothing bad happened and the chip is self protected against overheat or overcurrent anyway...
I finally got the film smd capacitors installed🙂 2x100nF as bootstraps (soldered on top of each other) and 1uF as input capacitors, same (1uF) instead of 680nF output caps and same in parallell with the power caps. It has to be said that the film smds were a bit expensive but I think they are worth it! I've only been listening for a couple of hours but the amp sounds more transperent, and not stressed at all when maxed out. Noise is minimal and the ringing is as low as my other modded cards even with the wrong inductors. So far I'm really impressed with sound, it truly sounds like a large amplifier! I need to do some more listening before I can vauch for this hard mod.. But I do recommend these as input caps since they doesn't seem to give any coloration. (Btw, they are bought from the same eBayer: 5X CF057D0105KBC Film Capacitor SMD 2824 1uF 50V 10 PX 0396 | eBay).
Here's some eyecandy😀
Here's some eyecandy😀
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Hmm... it may be combination of capacitors and resistors that you have on post inductor? I know that they parts vary from design. I have 560 nF instead of 680 nF and 5.6 ohms instead of 3.3 ohms. I am using stock bootstrap film caps too. Anyhow, it may be that your speakers have a very sensitive high end.
Hi XRK971, thanks for answering,
Well, I didn't change resistors, or capacitor value. Do you have suggestions?
I finally got the film smd capacitors installed🙂 2x100nF as bootstraps (soldered on top of each other) and 1uF as input capacitors, same (1uF) instead of 680nF output caps and same in parallell with the power caps. It has to be said that the film smds were a bit expensive but I think they are worth it! I've only been listening for a couple of hours but the amp sounds more transperent, and not stressed at all when maxed out. Noise is minimal and the ringing is as low as my other modded cards even with the wrong inductors. So far I'm really impressed with sound, it truly sounds like a large amplifier! I need to do some more listening before I can vauch for this hard mod.. But I do recommend these as input caps since they doesn't seem to give any coloration. (Btw, they are bought from the same eBayer: 5X CF057D0105KBC Film Capacitor SMD 2824 1uF 50V 10 PX 0396 | eBay).
Here's some eyecandy😀
Nice work getting those SMT's to fit there. Interesting how many people with Danzz blue/black are switching away from film to ceramic for bootstraps and you went to film but SMT. Are those the stock main power electrolytic caps? If so that should be your first upgrade. Try new Panasonic 330uF 25v SEPF OSCON's. How did switching to 1uF vs 0.68uF on output filters sound I wonder? Smoother and less HF hash?
Hi XRK971, thanks for answering,
Well, I didn't change resistors, or capacitor value. Do you have suggestions?
I am not suggesting different values just wondering if variation in parts from YJ a today may be cause. Mine happens to have 560nF for main LC filter and 5.6R for snubber vs 3.3R as recommended.
I can't test anymore anyhow as I have given my modded Danzz board to a friend now. It was sounding very good with how I had it last.
Here's my YJ Blue/Black in its permanent home. Mods include Pany Ceramic bootstraps, Wima and Nichicon caps and Coilcraft inductors. I'm using a Tocos Cosmos 50K pot. It's perfect for my little discreet living room setup using Markaudio Alp 7.3s in the Pensil cabinets (which still need to be veneered.
The power supply is a 24V supply that I purchased on Aliexpress. Plopped it in a black plastic Hammond box to make it stealthy.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The power supply is a 24V supply that I purchased on Aliexpress. Plopped it in a black plastic Hammond box to make it stealthy.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's my YJ Blue/Black in its permanent home. Mods include Pany Ceramic bootstraps, Wima and Nichicon caps and Coilcraft inductors. I'm using a Tocos Cosmos 50K pot.
Looks great! Congrats.
Here's my YJ Blue/Black in its permanent home. Mods include Pany Ceramic bootstraps, Wima and Nichicon caps and Coilcraft inductors. I'm using a Tocos Cosmos 50K pot. It's perfect for my little discreet living room setup using Markaudio Alp 7.3s in the Pensil cabinets (which still need to be veneered.
Looks good! Curious what inductor value you used for the Alpair 7.3s. I have a set as well that I treated like 8 ohm speakers, and so used 22 uH inductors.
Also curious where you got the amp case. I like it!
I also used 22uH inductors and it sounds really great. Definitely far greater than the sum of its parts.
The case was an eBay purchase. Came with all the connectors as well. I had to provide the volume pot and the LED. Plenty of room in this little case. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131207411824
The case was an eBay purchase. Came with all the connectors as well. I had to provide the volume pot and the LED. Plenty of room in this little case. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131207411824
I finished my second YJ blue board today .... well almost.
I used the big 22uH Coil Craft inductors - filter caps are the yellow 560nF that were installed.
Bootsraps are 220nF ceramics - waiting form smt parts with greater Voltage resistance.
Did the 330pF/10R bootstrap mod.
Power rail caps currently 470uF Silmic - waiting for 330uF Oscons mentioned above
Input is via Lundahl transformers - wouldn't like to be without those!
At voltage input I have an additional 2200uF Nichicon
Power comes from a Meanwhell SMPS at 19V.
Does it sound good? Well, so far I am a happy camper!
I used the big 22uH Coil Craft inductors - filter caps are the yellow 560nF that were installed.
Bootsraps are 220nF ceramics - waiting form smt parts with greater Voltage resistance.
Did the 330pF/10R bootstrap mod.
Power rail caps currently 470uF Silmic - waiting for 330uF Oscons mentioned above
Input is via Lundahl transformers - wouldn't like to be without those!
At voltage input I have an additional 2200uF Nichicon
Power comes from a Meanwhell SMPS at 19V.
Does it sound good? Well, so far I am a happy camper!
Not sure if I should post this here or start a new thread.
I have a YJ 5.1 TPA3116 board that I wanted to put in a cabinet with a decoder board. Problem is I don't know enough to wire the 2 boards properly. The amp is straight forward enough; it's the decoder board that's baffling and the supplier is no help at all.
Any directions would be mostly appreciated. 🙂
I have a YJ 5.1 TPA3116 board that I wanted to put in a cabinet with a decoder board. Problem is I don't know enough to wire the 2 boards properly. The amp is straight forward enough; it's the decoder board that's baffling and the supplier is no help at all.
Any directions would be mostly appreciated. 🙂
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