Anyone have a recommendation for a laptop power supply brick? 19v 90w. I have two boards on the way, a yj blue board and a hiamplifier. Any good/bad ones out there?
Tried reflowing all solder joints but still no luck, it still cuts out on dynamic passages 🙁
The second board i got was DOA.
No luck so far
I am using ferrite inductors, Vishay, IHLP series, with my boards and when I lay the iPod nano close to the speakers some of the songs will terminate early.
When repositioning the nano further away those events do not occur.
Very interesting.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. What board did you get - forgot. Did you check solder joints on legs of the tpa3116 chip? I had a bad solder joint on a speaker out and similar cutout happened on dynamic passage - I think ohmic heating through bad joint made it worse.
One other area is that your input cap may be bad - try swapping that out.
Thanks for the help xrk,
These are the Yj red boards.
I'll give the chip legs one last go. Problem is the heatsink's in the way of most pins, and thermal glue covers some of them. These were built on an off day it seems 🙂
These are the Yj red boards.
I'll give the chip legs one last go. Problem is the heatsink's in the way of most pins, and thermal glue covers some of them. These were built on an off day it seems 🙂
Sometimes we spend too much time futzing with our gear and forget to just listen to the music. I plugged my tpa3116 (Dug's PCB) straight into my full range mini Karlsonators and listened to some Van Morrison - no DSP no XO no BSC just pure lossless flac file. It sounds great. This is a really nice sounding amp and nothing better than playing fullrange.
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced 50K pot to go with the YJ blue board? I'm currently using a 100K Alps blue from my spare parts box, which is probably not ideal as the majority of TPA3116 boards use 50K pots.
The ferrite beads I use with sure3110 do look a bit longer (1cm) than those most others use, so I wouldn't be very surprised if they are not really effective with tpa3110 LOL
if the label on the box they came from is correct, beads size are same, these are RI-4-10-2, datasheet even has graphs for all their beads 🙂https://www1.elfa.se/data1/wwwroot/assets/datasheets/05854005.pdf
So with these beads my cdplayer gets disturbed by tpa3110, restarting in the middle of track, only if the pcb is very close.
if the label on the box they came from is correct, beads size are same, these are RI-4-10-2, datasheet even has graphs for all their beads 🙂https://www1.elfa.se/data1/wwwroot/assets/datasheets/05854005.pdf
So with these beads my cdplayer gets disturbed by tpa3110, restarting in the middle of track, only if the pcb is very close.
I would like to see a ferrite bead data sheet with "impedance" vs current, like good inductor data sheets.
Then I would consider using them.
I just ordered two of these. Have not actually tried it myself. However, I have read quite a number of decent comments on it. I know that a small audio store at EBay based in UK (and one in Hong Kong) sells passive preamps based on these DACT type attenuators. The owner of the UK shop commented in another forum that he tried many different kinds of attenuators and found these to be the best choice (balancing between cost and quality).
Regards,
I would only consider (now) using inductors that have the inductance vs current graph in the data sheet.
Wurth has some inductors that I happen have some samples of. 🙂
I may have time in the coming months to try them.
Thanks LoTse, I kept thinking their must be a better price performance choice than $$$ Goldpoints.
Anyone considering switching from an inductor based filter to ferrite bead type filter should read up on the modulation scheme used by their particular chip.
Type AD ("traditional") uses two switching signals 180 deg apart. If inductor/capacitive filtering is not used and ferrites are used instead then the speaker will see the full power of the switching frequency.
Type BD (option on some BTL outputs) has the speaker load seeing in-phase signals at the switching frequency. This lends itself to ferrite bead filtering. This is where you will see comments about short speaker leads.
Just sayin: do your research.
🙂
TI has this:
Application Report
SLOA119A–April 2006–Revised January 2008
Type AD ("traditional") uses two switching signals 180 deg apart. If inductor/capacitive filtering is not used and ferrites are used instead then the speaker will see the full power of the switching frequency.
Type BD (option on some BTL outputs) has the speaker load seeing in-phase signals at the switching frequency. This lends itself to ferrite bead filtering. This is where you will see comments about short speaker leads.
Just sayin: do your research.
🙂
TI has this:
Application Report
SLOA119A–April 2006–Revised January 2008
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Try the ferrites for two weeks. Then switch back. You might find the ferrites were not the right choice.
I've yet to hear anything that actually sounded better with them, for any purpose. I know it's harsh and hard-lined, but seriously I always go back to without.
I've yet to hear anything that actually sounded better with them, for any purpose. I know it's harsh and hard-lined, but seriously I always go back to without.
Did anyone have success with eliminating the anti-pop or anti-bump on the red JY board on turn-on? I placed a capacitor from the mute pin to the ground on the power input and that seemed to work but isn't very pretty.
Yesterday I tried the method proposed on page 172, see image below and the ground point suggested, using a 10uf 50v capacitor and it didn't work. This is a way cleaner way to mod the board so hoping there's another solution like this.
Or rather how do I locate a ground point on the board closer to the mute pin?
Yesterday I tried the method proposed on page 172, see image below and the ground point suggested, using a 10uf 50v capacitor and it didn't work. This is a way cleaner way to mod the board so hoping there's another solution like this.
Or rather how do I locate a ground point on the board closer to the mute pin?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Can anyone with a blue YJ board confirm if their board produces a "hiss" with no inputs connected? I'm wondering if this is a "feature" of the board itself, or if mine is "special".
Thanks!
Thanks!