TPA3116D2 Amp

If loading the woofer output helps, you could use a resistor for the final implementation (higher ohms so as not to suck up power).

Likely your picking up noise from the amp itself. To be sure, I'd move the set up around to see if it's coming from external to the amp.

I would keep the shield in place and ground the shield as well (both ends).

You mentioned it's not an issue when playing music. Is this problem when there isn't a source is connected to the amp's inputs, or, when the source is connected but not providing a signal (e.g., source is powered down, between tracks, etc.)?

My board is only bluetooth input, I had the noisy problem either playing music or not, but I just realized that it seems I have no music on bass output, only noise, loudspeakers also make that noise, but are playing music very nicely. I think I burned the BTL IC when I connected without any bass load, now that ic surely is adding just noise to the whole board, and lost ability to do what was supposed to do. First I thought it was a bad wiring or pot at the bass potentiometer, wiring was ok, but I replaced the pot anyway, but problem was still there, which put me to think about that maybe the IC got damaged when no properly operated, I did not know it was so critic leaving that output without any load, so maybe it practically got burn at the first instance I connected the board on that configuration? The very first time I tried the board without any mod, I luckily had all the required speakers connected, was this time after the mod that I leaved the bass output without load. :(
 
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I don't think you can burn the tpachip playing without load, see first post what can burn

:( The wiring and soldering looks good, I tested it with tester, everything good, if the ic its ok, then I don't know what else to check, all other 3 pots work well, I did not touch anything else, I just wired the pots, it was tricky because the double layer, but I got the idea and did it easy. All pots are double, but the pcb only uses half of the double bass pot, everything fine there, I have worked a lot with pots before this.
 
:( The wiring and soldering looks good, I tested it with tester, everything good, if the ic its ok, then I don't know what else to check, all other 3 pots work well, I did not touch anything else, I just wired the pots, it was tricky because the double layer, but I got the idea and did it easy. All pots are double, but the pcb only uses half of the double bass pot, everything fine there, I have worked a lot with pots before this.

Check you didn't damage the traces on the PCB and also the metallization of through holes.
 
My board is only bluetooth input, I had the noisy problem either playing music or not, but I just realized that it seems I have no music on bass output, only noise, loudspeakers also make that noise, but are playing music very nicely. I think I burned the BTL IC when I connected without any bass load, now that ic surely is adding just noise to the whole board, and lost ability to do what was supposed to do. First I thought it was a bad wiring or pot at the bass potentiometer, wiring was ok, but I replaced the pot anyway, but problem was still there, which put me to think about that maybe the IC got damaged when no properly operated, I did not know it was so critic leaving that output without any load, so maybe it practically got burn at the first instance I connected the board on that configuration? The very first time I tried the board without any mod, I luckily had all the required speakers connected, was this time after the mod that I leaved the bass output without load. :(

Could be because no speakers were connected. I had a 2.1 3226 board that I tested extensively w/o speakers connected at various times - no problem. But I was - fairly good - at minimizing the vol control for each unconnected output.

W/o a speaker connected, it could cause oscillations that have high peak voltages. This may cause capacitors to fail when the their voltage rating is exceeded. Try to visually inspect the caps on the output circuits (some may be on the reverse side of the board).
 
Could be because no speakers were connected. I had a 2.1 3226 board that I tested extensively w/o speakers connected at various times - no problem. But I was - fairly good - at minimizing the vol control for each unconnected output.

W/o a speaker connected, it could cause oscillations that have high peak voltages. This may cause capacitors to fail when the their voltage rating is exceeded. Try to visually inspect the caps on the output circuits (some may be on the reverse side of the board).

I checked by eye all the capacitors, nothing seemed to be wrong. I am going to remove the btl chip and see if the noise get off, hoping with this rescuing the board to at least be 2.0 sound :D
 
i do not like the that 7492 board, too.
But i'm a big fan of the sanwu TDA7498.

Thanks for the feedback Buehgemeiste, and glad I'm not the only one that has a problem with the TDA7492 board, might try the snubber mode at a later time since it's cheap, maybe change the inductors too.

The question now is, which version of the TDA7498 board should I get, the blue black board (the one with big cement resistors), or the one with lots of caps on the sides.
It would be great if someone has both and could shed some light on the performance of the two, or even compare them to the Sanwu TPA3118D2.
 
Guys tell me a good price on the two chips 3116, I would like to 100 x 2 as the speakers I have 8 ohm. In China, a lot of boards but it is not clear how they sound, and if there is two chips instead of one for each channel. I've seen a lot written about the candy bars from Sanwu, but I do not know what the volume control to put together and how they run, so I want to try the two chips good option.
Eyeing the sta508 (TC2000 80 + 80) but do not know it by the sound.
Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks for the feedback Buehgemeiste, and glad I'm not the only one that has a problem with the TDA7492 board, might try the snubber mode at a later time since it's cheap, maybe change the inductors too.

The question now is, which version of the TDA7498 board should I get, the blue black board (the one with big cement resistors), or the one with lots of caps on the sides.
It would be great if someone has both and could shed some light on the performance of the two, or even compare them to the Sanwu TPA3118D2.

I like both of the mentioned 7498 boards.
Imo the sanwu with the cap banks on the sides sounds better.
That is one of the best sounding cheap stock boards i own.
I do not feel like modding it.
Maybe the 3118 is the better chip in a strictly technical way of looking at it.
But everytime i switch from a TPA311x board to the 7498, the latter is my favorite.
Biggest plus for the TI-chips is their 4Ohm (2Ohm in pbtl) - capability.
All that is opinion and i'm fine with all other opinions.
 
I like both of the mentioned 7498 boards.
Imo the sanwu with the cap banks on the sides sounds better.
That is one of the best sounding cheap stock boards i own.
I do not feel like modding it.
Maybe the 3118 is the better chip in a strictly technical way of looking at it.
But everytime i switch from a TPA311x board to the 7498, the latter is my favorite.
Biggest plus for the TI-chips is their 4Ohm (2Ohm in pbtl) - capability.
All that is opinion and i'm fine with all other opinions.

Thanks again Buehgemeiste, and your opinion is of value. Your replies, along other active users's are truly helpful to newbies like me, and you answer to the newcomers too I observed, so humbly I give my thanks :)

And gonna put my money on a TDA7498 then, from what you saying, it should run two 4ohm 60W speakers on 20v linear supply easily, too bad the datasheet doesn't provide graphs for voltages other than 36v and 34v.

Gonna get a TDA3118D2 too I just can't resist the price, I have the TPA3110D2 and it's just dead silent.

I shall leave a feedback on the relevant threads when I get them and link to them. Sorry for hijacking the post.
 
...
I would like to 100 x 2 as the speakers I have 8 ohm.

...

No matter what the board listing says or who made it there is a limit of what the TPA3116 will do.

These are from the data sheet.
 

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No matter what the board listing says or who made it there is a limit of what the TPA3116 will do.

These are from the data sheet.

Is this chip trustworthy/stable on 2ohm? supposing we have a 2.1 board with 3 speakers on 2ohm and maximum input voltage, that should be a lot of power coming from those little ic's, is it like everything supossed to go fine as long as there are good heatsinks?
 
Biggest plus for the TI-chips is their 4Ohm (2Ohm in pbtl) - capability.
All that is opinion and i'm fine with all other opinions.

Hi, this means I cannot run my 4 Ohm speakers with TDA7498 board?
they would be compatible just with TI's TPA3116 chips?
I would have loved to give it a try with 7498 since I heard their bass is much better compared to the TPAs
 
Hi, this means I cannot run my 4 Ohm speakers with TDA7498 board?
they would be compatible just with TI's TPA3116 chips?
I would have loved to give it a try with 7498 since I heard their bass is much better compared to the TPAs

I believe the TDA7498 can run 4ohm speakers just fine, the TDA7498 board is better than others because it sounds good without modding.
 
Is this chip trustworthy/stable on 2ohm? supposing we have a 2.1 board with 3 speakers on 2ohm and maximum input voltage, that should be a lot of power coming from those little ic's, is it like everything supossed to go fine as long as there are good heatsinks?

I have not run one on 2R.

I have run a FAST using 4R as the woofer on a PBLT.

Works very well...so the neighbors at their party said. :)