Hi
You can take a look here:
Breeze TPA3116D2 20 by snake69fast | Photobucket
for some work on this board.
Regards,
For zobel: I may measure driver impedance good enough(?) with ebay meter bought while ago (2014 New Arrival 12846 LCD M328 Digital Transistor Tester Meter Backlight Diode Triode Capacitance ESR Meter MOS/PNP/NPN L/C/R-in Integrated Circuits from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group) but i cannot find Le of drivers for caps (this is best i got from ebay add: 2pcs HiEnd 4inch Full Range Speaker Defy Lowther Fostex New Neo Version | eBay
Btw. Can i tailor zobel network in TPA3116 amp so that it makes any afterward passive notch filters un-necessary used with 4" fullrange, that normally have character to rising response? (edit: not particularly rising, some peak in maybe 10khz)
I also use TDA1543 NOS dac which also helps with these drivers.
I also use TDA1543 NOS dac which also helps with these drivers.
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That is very interesting photo set, thanks for it!
Do you know is there more specific info anywhere concering this? Is it your project?
there is a impedance curve in the ebay link for the speakers.
i cannot help you from here on.
i'm a noob and i told anything i know on your topic.
my statements about would mod are just personal opinion.
just go ahead and consult different zobel calculators.
(the snubber mod that is shown in the pictures is worth a try, too.)
i cannot help you from here on.
i'm a noob and i told anything i know on your topic.
my statements about would mod are just personal opinion.
just go ahead and consult different zobel calculators.
(the snubber mod that is shown in the pictures is worth a try, too.)
Appreciate your help, thanks again! Ill study some basics and proceed as get more confidence what to mod and why.
irribeo have you done this to your green board ?
After reading Lo_Tse experience, this is the exact thing he done to his board before it fried...
Well, my gut feel is that my mishap probably had more to do with the way I connected the boards and the PSU, and less with the linking of the 5 bridging points. As I have suggested, convert one board first to see how it work out. I am quite sure that someone has reported success in converting the Audiobah board to PBTL before.
Regards,
Lo_Tse
I have no issue to test out and turn one of my board as a guinea pig but the issue is I have done some bootstraps mods near both solder pad at the center of the board. Turn out if connected together all the resistors and caps for bootstraps seams to be connected together too. Now that's something I need to be careful.
Oh........., I did not know that. Hmmm, this could complicate matters. Sorry, I have no opinion.
Regards,
RE: differences in HSDZ boards.
So a while back I got two of the HSDZ versions of the YJ blue/black versions of the Danzz design.
These boards run traces under/above from power terminal to power decoupling caps.
The two boards, even though from the same seller in same purchase, had two subtle differences.
1. One had a Diode at the power in terminal across +/-, the other didn't.
2. The one with the Diode had both the +/- traces from terminal to one of the power decoupling caps on the underside, whereas the board without Diode had just the + trace from terminal to cap with the - trace running on top of board to decoupling cap.
On both boards only the + trace runs from one power cap to the other.
Now, while doing the avcc pin 17 mod the pin got knocked out so the board with diode dead.
Been running the board without Diode and neg trace on top for a couple of nights, and have noticed that the IC runs hot to the touch, whereas the one with Diode didn't using same set up.
Just an observation.
U
So a while back I got two of the HSDZ versions of the YJ blue/black versions of the Danzz design.
These boards run traces under/above from power terminal to power decoupling caps.
The two boards, even though from the same seller in same purchase, had two subtle differences.
1. One had a Diode at the power in terminal across +/-, the other didn't.
2. The one with the Diode had both the +/- traces from terminal to one of the power decoupling caps on the underside, whereas the board without Diode had just the + trace from terminal to cap with the - trace running on top of board to decoupling cap.
On both boards only the + trace runs from one power cap to the other.
Now, while doing the avcc pin 17 mod the pin got knocked out so the board with diode dead.
Been running the board without Diode and neg trace on top for a couple of nights, and have noticed that the IC runs hot to the touch, whereas the one with Diode didn't using same set up.
Just an observation.
U
I haven't seen your pcb and "bootstrap" snubbers. But if you put 4 snubbers on the pbtl solder pads for BTL you can remove one on each side (L&R). The place you put the snubbers connects both outputs together, one snubber per channel is ok. Keep the snubbers going back closest to chip, ending/grounding closest to chip.
Hi
Does anyone have experience with this TPA3116 board with integrated power supply that boost the voltage from 12 v to 24v. I am to mount the amplifier in my car and it therefor fits perfect.
TPA3116D2 Car Amplifier Board with The Acc Control 50 w 50 w Booster Module | eBay
Does anyone have experience with this TPA3116 board with integrated power supply that boost the voltage from 12 v to 24v. I am to mount the amplifier in my car and it therefor fits perfect.
TPA3116D2 Car Amplifier Board with The Acc Control 50 w 50 w Booster Module | eBay
I have also tried out this board:
I was a bit disappointed regarding sound. I gives a very loud "pop" when turned on and off. There is also some static noise when the pot is turned. This is almost gone when the amp is tuned to max. or min.
I was a bit disappointed regarding sound. I gives a very loud "pop" when turned on and off. There is also some static noise when the pot is turned. This is almost gone when the amp is tuned to max. or min.
one snubber for each pbtl....this is what i'm thinking but...but not confident to do so unless someone verified for me
this is what i have done to my pcb...so which one should i remove or cut ?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have also tried out this board:
I was a bit disappointed regarding sound. I gives a very loud "pop" when turned on and off. There is also some static noise when the pot is turned. This is almost gone when the amp is tuned to max. or min.
Is this a new iteration of the 3116? Have not seen it before. Look like there is only one power caps. Yup the pop phenomenon exists in a number of the boards. Turn down the volume when you switch on and off the amp, it will help.
My hunch is that the static noise originated from the volume pot, may be the contact between the wiper and the plastic film is not good? I have a similar experience with one of my amp board's volume pot - noise level is higher at the middle of the turn and no noise at both ends.
If you do not like the sound of this board, I suggest try out some of the more "established" boards e.g. the YJ black/blue, xrk's "Weiner", the Audiobah or it's clone, the SMKN etc. Some of the newer ones, such as the two chip stereo (2.0 not 2.1) board seemed to have some good feedback too.
Regards,