Here is my Breeze audio TPA3116. It sounds ok for the price (30,15€).
Latest HiFi 2 0 Stereo Output Digital Power Amplifier TPA3116 50WX2 by WLX | eBay
Electrolytics, largest 10pcs are Samsung labeled (470uf). Large red Wimas (2pcs) are 0.2uf.
If have to mount bigger components, like trying other inductors & caps, do you think i could dremel some of heatsink wings away, one from each end?
Does this chip get warm easily and is there some strong reasons for this size heatsink and not to touch it?
Latest HiFi 2 0 Stereo Output Digital Power Amplifier TPA3116 50WX2 by WLX | eBay
Electrolytics, largest 10pcs are Samsung labeled (470uf). Large red Wimas (2pcs) are 0.2uf.
If have to mount bigger components, like trying other inductors & caps, do you think i could dremel some of heatsink wings away, one from each end?
Does this chip get warm easily and is there some strong reasons for this size heatsink and not to touch it?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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No problem to use a smaller heatsink.
I have used a black yj board at max volume for hours without a heatsink and damage occured.
My impression is that they get hotter with smaller inductors (like on the sure board).
Yup. I followed the instructions and linked the 5 marked points on the bottom side of the PCB. To save space, I joined the 2 PCB back to back at the 4 corner holes (lined with metal circles) using brass standoffs. When I powered up, I saw flame and smoke!! Yes, flame. Later on I used my multimeter to check the 4 holes and found that all the holes were actually connected to ground?? So be careful. Check the holes first and use nylon standoffs.
Regards,
xrk,
I did not investigate what was the root cause. I asked my self the same question and have no answer. I am sure that I connected the bridges correctly (according to the instructions) since I checked that a number of times before power up. Unless the bridging points were incorrectly set up by the vendor. However, I vaguely recalled that someone actually had converted the Audiobah board to PBTL and it worked fine.
In hind sight, I should have converted one board first, checked to see whether it worked. Then worked on the second one.
Regards,
Thanks!
I checked caps again, biggest electroytics are Sanyo WX 470uF/25V.
two Big red caps are Wima MKP10 0.1uF/400V.
Those inductors look good, are they really benefits if i change them according tpa3116 wiki? Some other boards have much smaller and boxed versions.
Maybe this Breeze version is already modded to best?
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Haha!!!
I missed the most important word in my statement:
NO!!! No damage occured.
Your first post said labelled Sanyo. Sanyo electrolytics were produced till March 2010. After that same factory continued under own name: Suncon
Better fakes or maybe even real Sanyo WX look like:
Better fakes or maybe even real Sanyo WX look like:
I won't believe, that plant can simply put out caps with the same
performance than Sanyo when all were bought by Panasonic.
performance than Sanyo when all were bought by Panasonic.
http://www.altec-ag.ch/eng/News/bis%202011/Newsletter/Sanyo%20Spin%20off%20letter_0409.pdf
Panasonic bought another division of Sanyo.
Panasonic bought another division of Sanyo.
Your first post said labelled Sanyo. Sanyo electrolytics were produced till March 2010. After that same factory continued under own name: Suncon
Better fakes or maybe even real Sanyo WX look like:
I didnt had amp in hands then and guessed few times. They are labeled Sanyo.
OK, maybe same amount (10pcs) Silmic II or Oscon.
I also have 10uF Panasonic polyester caps. Maybe them in place of 6.8uF films (those gray ones). Any other suggestions what to replace?
The gray caps in your Breeze amp belong to the output filter.
They should (only) be changed according to the impedance of your speakers.
They might very well be polyester caps themselves...nothing wrong with that imo.
A Zobel filter at the outputs and matched output filters on the amp was maybe the biggest improvement in soundquality i got from a mod on a 3116.
You need to look for a impedance curve of your speakers and post it here.
I dought that those are real Wimas.
But changing those components will most likely not change too much.
Oscons and polymer caps are quite expensive.
You might change only two of the electroytics (the two closesest to the chip) if you find a cheap source once.
Even a bit smaller value might be ok, as there is enough capacitance onboard already.
Thanks!
Hmm. heres pic i just took. I need to check those elcos between heat sink and red "wima"´s
Does this pic give more opinion for mod process?
Concerning those 5pcs elcos. They are nearest to chip. (EDIT: Those elcos are 2.2uF / 50V)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Those elcos (4 of them) might be signal decoupling caps.
Maybe they paralleled those on the positive inputs with the big film caps.
If you change something to oscons it should be two of those ten big caps.
Maybe one the five smaller elcos is for power decoupling.
If that is the case you can (only) change this with a small value, high ripple current cap.
All that i say without seeing the traces and without knowing that amp.
The first thing i would look into is the output filter (component-value-wise and not brand-name-wise).
To start with that you should look up your speaker impedance, calculate a zobel, get to know the value of your inductors, calculate the right values for the filter (maybe keeping the inductors) and then start to mod the board, but only if something is wrong.
Maybe they paralleled those on the positive inputs with the big film caps.
If you change something to oscons it should be two of those ten big caps.
Maybe one the five smaller elcos is for power decoupling.
If that is the case you can (only) change this with a small value, high ripple current cap.
All that i say without seeing the traces and without knowing that amp.
The first thing i would look into is the output filter (component-value-wise and not brand-name-wise).
To start with that you should look up your speaker impedance, calculate a zobel, get to know the value of your inductors, calculate the right values for the filter (maybe keeping the inductors) and then start to mod the board, but only if something is wrong.
Lo_Tse
Is this the board that you're using for PBTL ? Are those the area that you joint before it blew up ?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I found this link on Audiokarma...perhaps this would help or PBTL mode
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=574806&page=196
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Yes. The instructions I got from the Chinese vendor was to link all the 5 points and I did. As I replied to xrk, I really did not know the root cause of the demise of my amps. I suggest you try it with one board, convert it into a mono amp and test it out.
Come to think about it, may be one should carefully inspect those bridging points against the schematic on the data sheet before proceeding. The data sheet showed a 2.1 schematic. Just look at the part that show connections of the PBTL configuration (for the subwoofer).
Good luck.
If you read at the audiokarma link at the bottom of my post someone did mention you only need to link 3 solder pad instead of 5. Near the L & R output and the one near at the input point.
But there's another one said you have to cut the +ve link to R capacitor...
TPA 3116 vs the tripaths - Page 197 - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Which one is the right one 😕