Thanks Bought a YJ one.
Likely overpaid at 19$.. but?
As for Fakes it's at epidemic levels.
Even Resistors are Faked Yup.. fraction of a Cent items.
Likely Entrepeneurs just rent production time (job lots) on operating Fab lines.
Usually the dies they use are missing half the circuitry.
IF they were 100% copies.... these wouldn't be Such an Issue.
Recently Fake Chips were found installed on right off the Assembly Line C130s
Nice Huh??
My old YJ Ta 2020 Amp board featured Virtally EVERY single part on as Fake From Wimas to Ta chip.
But in fairness tripath was Looong gone Wima isn't tho 🙂
Likely overpaid at 19$.. but?
As for Fakes it's at epidemic levels.
Even Resistors are Faked Yup.. fraction of a Cent items.
Likely Entrepeneurs just rent production time (job lots) on operating Fab lines.
Usually the dies they use are missing half the circuitry.
IF they were 100% copies.... these wouldn't be Such an Issue.
Recently Fake Chips were found installed on right off the Assembly Line C130s
Nice Huh??
My old YJ Ta 2020 Amp board featured Virtally EVERY single part on as Fake From Wimas to Ta chip.
But in fairness tripath was Looong gone Wima isn't tho 🙂
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You can order direct from YJ and know at least pcb is genuine. 🙂 genuine copy of Danzz's design.
Yuan Jing Audio - ON SALE! - TPA3116 Class-D 2.0 Stereo Amplifier Board [50W+50W] - USD $16.99
That is how I got my first one.
Yuan Jing Audio - ON SALE! - TPA3116 Class-D 2.0 Stereo Amplifier Board [50W+50W] - USD $16.99
That is how I got my first one.
I will agree with that list.
Cheap and easy to mod is the thru hole YJ blue/black aka the Danzz board.
Best sounding board from what I hear is the Group Buy Wiener.
Best stock board is probably Sure from what I hear. I like the Ybdz Wiener for stock.
Best stock complete amp in a case is probably SMSL 36A pro (TPA3118D2 25 watts) $50 on Amazon.
best single mod: Panasonic SEPF 330uF 25V OSCON caps
next best mod: either upgrade boostrap caps to decent ceramics or add bootstrap snubbers
have fun.
Thanks for the YJ link But it's ~4$ more to buy from them.. once shipping is included.
Besides AliExpress is Serious about deliveries And customer satisfaction.
Note that I made significant Sound improvements on My YJ Ta board by simply retrofitting Genuine (not Fake) parts.
Anybody yet tried that with these ?
I'm basically Curious IF these 3116 Chips are the equal of the old Ta 2020's... ideally superior 🙂
Approaching the Sound qualities of a passable Lm 3886 chip design though would be IMO.. an unrealistic expectation.
At least that's My thoughts.. so far.
Will find out for myself in a few weeks.
Thanks
Besides AliExpress is Serious about deliveries And customer satisfaction.
Note that I made significant Sound improvements on My YJ Ta board by simply retrofitting Genuine (not Fake) parts.
Anybody yet tried that with these ?
I'm basically Curious IF these 3116 Chips are the equal of the old Ta 2020's... ideally superior 🙂
Approaching the Sound qualities of a passable Lm 3886 chip design though would be IMO.. an unrealistic expectation.
At least that's My thoughts.. so far.
Will find out for myself in a few weeks.
Thanks
It is better than Tripath for sure. Once rudimentary mods (OSCON's and bootstrap caps, bootstrap snubbers) are in place it will stand its ground with most 3886 amps except for the best full blown modded 3886 amps.
Add coilcraft inductors, Cinemag input trafos and you are in a pretty high league as far as amps go.
Add coilcraft inductors, Cinemag input trafos and you are in a pretty high league as far as amps go.
It is better than Tripath for sure. Once rudimentary mods (OSCON's and bootstrap caps, bootstrap snubbers) are in place it will stand its ground with most 3886 amps except for the best full blown modded 3886 amps.
Add coilcraft inductors, Cinemag input trafos and you are in a pretty high league as far as amps go.
Thanks for the Update.
Seriously question the LM 3886 claims though.
Clearly yer speaking more from Enthusiasm than actual experiences 😉
I have a Medium/good quality .. designed made in USA lm3886 Amp ...currently in use.. (Not some excreable handsful of $, bottom feeder Chinese dross /clone thing) driving my Tannoy GRF's.
Exquisite isn't an adequate descriptor,.
[Study /read Tomchr's Modulous86 Modulus-86 Rev. 2.0: Composite amplifier achieving 0.000067 % THD. for the State of the Art in Lm3886 build /design]
Frankly My 3886 works ..Massively ..better than a twinned Arcam setup costing Me several Thousand $ when New.. which is why it's in use.. and the Arcams are not
Chip amp is for tunes in my garage.
True not from first hand experience but a good friend and amp fanatic has compared and the 3886 is better, if one of the nicer ones designed by a diy'er, and in fact it was the modulus 386 that he said is the best amp he has ever heard anywhere. But apples to apples comparison is Chinese 3116 vs Chinese 3886 then 3116 is not so bad. But if you want to compare a top of the line DIY 3886 then compare to the Gmarsh Wiener 3116 with all the fixin's including $110 Cinemags and you may have some competition, but not with the modulus 386 as that is currently THE BEST amp period. We have no argument.
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Quick inquiry for the knowledgeable ones 🙂
I am about to finalize the connections for my tpa3116 amp and wanted to include some kind of turn-on & turn-off pop reduction protection.
The idea is to use a rotary 4P3T switch so as to have Off-Standby-On modes.
The system I have in mind works as follows:
Standby turns power on through a bistable relay attached to the tranformer's primary, this will power the 3116 board and all attached preamps.
Switching to On, the circuit will close a N/O relay that sits between Avcc and SDZ.
I might be incorporating an RC delay at the ON switch such that even if the user turns the switch too fast, there will still he enough delay for the amp to stabilize before outputs are enabled.
The questions are:
- What is a ballpark estimate for the righy amount of delay?
- what is the functional difference between the SDZ and MUTE pin?
- any big errors anyone can see in such an implementation?
Thanks 🙂
I am about to finalize the connections for my tpa3116 amp and wanted to include some kind of turn-on & turn-off pop reduction protection.
The idea is to use a rotary 4P3T switch so as to have Off-Standby-On modes.
The system I have in mind works as follows:
Standby turns power on through a bistable relay attached to the tranformer's primary, this will power the 3116 board and all attached preamps.
Switching to On, the circuit will close a N/O relay that sits between Avcc and SDZ.
I might be incorporating an RC delay at the ON switch such that even if the user turns the switch too fast, there will still he enough delay for the amp to stabilize before outputs are enabled.
The questions are:
- What is a ballpark estimate for the righy amount of delay?
- what is the functional difference between the SDZ and MUTE pin?
- any big errors anyone can see in such an implementation?
Thanks 🙂
First of all, sorry for using this thread for asking about the tripath TA2020. But theres a lot of posts about modding the TPA3116, I haven't found any decent articles about modding the tripath 2020. YJ 2020 MKIII to be more precise. Theres even a beautiful wiki page here on diyAudio about modding the 3116.
Can you guys give me some pointers on which components to replace and so on? Probably the most important components to replace would be the input de-coupling caps right?
Can you guys give me some pointers on which components to replace and so on? Probably the most important components to replace would be the input de-coupling caps right?
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First of all, sorry for using this thread for asking about the tripath TA2020. But theres a lot of posts about modding the TPA3116, I haven't found any decent articles about modding the tripath 2020. YJ 2020 MKIII to be more precise. Theres even a beautiful wiki page here on diyAudio about modding the 3116.
Can you guys give me some pointers on which components to replace and so on? Probably the most important components to replace would be the input de-coupling caps right?
Did you miss this thread ?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/223389-lp-2020a-mod-thread.html
The Tripath had its own wiki too - just look around. See the sticky?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/85273-tripath-t-amp-faq-wiki.html
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@xrk971 I didn't miss the Lepai thread, but Lepai has its own component placement. Found the wiki about Tripath too tho. Thanks
mono 4 ohm load, run a single channel or PBTL?
Hello,
I plan on using this for a battery powered mono speaker. The speaker is 4 ohm, so is it more efficient to run one channel or to run the TPA3116 in PBTL mode? Is PBTL mode only better @ 2 ohm?
Also, I'm a little confused as to how to run this amplifier with only one channel amplified. The schematic that you attached on post number 2 looks much more confusing than what you said about just shunting the unused channel to ground with a diode.
Any advice and guidance greatly appreciated.
-Nicholas
Oh, sorry, I forgot to add, if you want to operate with open load, you can simply use some small signal diodes to shunt the oscillations to the power and ground. Something like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
-d2
Hello,
I plan on using this for a battery powered mono speaker. The speaker is 4 ohm, so is it more efficient to run one channel or to run the TPA3116 in PBTL mode? Is PBTL mode only better @ 2 ohm?
Also, I'm a little confused as to how to run this amplifier with only one channel amplified. The schematic that you attached on post number 2 looks much more confusing than what you said about just shunting the unused channel to ground with a diode.
Any advice and guidance greatly appreciated.
-Nicholas
Hello,
I plan on using this for a battery powered mono speaker. The speaker is 4 ohm, so is it more efficient to run one channel or to run the TPA3116 in PBTL mode? Is PBTL mode only better @ 2 ohm?
Also, I'm a little confused as to how to run this amplifier with only one channel amplified. The schematic that you attached on post number 2 looks much more confusing than what you said about just shunting the unused channel to ground with a diode.
Any advice and guidance greatly appreciated.
-Nicholas
i put mine in pbtl mode for a similar application.
my speaker is 8ohm but that's no problem.
removing the not needed components for both channels makes it easier to mount the correct output filters for your single speaker.
Has anyone done any work/testing of swapping out the gain resistors 1uF cap to GND? item C15 on the 3116 datasheet schematic.
Ideally I would put a class1 here, but unavailable in 1uF. x7r / silver mica / tantalum?
whats the best performing x7r through hole cap on market?
any advice!
Ideally I would put a class1 here, but unavailable in 1uF. x7r / silver mica / tantalum?
whats the best performing x7r through hole cap on market?
any advice!
The 1uF mkt filmcap there has a little higher capacitance than xr7 1uF. The resistor quality and the cap quality have same influence on SoundQuality as the standoffs you use 😀
True story. You'd better hook a scope up there to see what's going on with this supply rail. It just supplies the gates drive. (Pretty much uncritical)
It is better than Tripath for sure. Once rudimentary mods (OSCON's and bootstrap caps, bootstrap snubbers) are in place it will stand its ground with most 3886 amps except for the best full blown modded 3886 amps.
Add coilcraft inductors, Cinemag input trafos and you are in a pretty high league as far as amps go.
Well, putting a 10R+1uF RC-filter in front of the AVCC rail helped some people to reduce noise. I also implemented this for the TPA3132 boards as it doesn't cost that much, just to be sure. Audible effect depends on the rest of the circuit layout and used power supply.
Well, putting a 10R+1uF RC-filter in front of the AVCC rail helped some people to reduce noise. I also implemented this for the TPA3132 boards as it doesn't cost that much, just to be sure. Audible effect depends on the rest of the circuit layout and used power supply.
Is the 10R+1uF in series with Avcc rail between Vcc and Avcc or Avcc to GND? That is a simple cheap mod for sure, I have never tried it but notice that the 3116 has hiss at zero input when I put my ear to speaker.
There's absolutely no comparison between my Wiener card and tomchr's Modulus86, the latter completely destroys my amp (and pretty much every other amp out there) in measured performance. The distortion numbers he's posted for the amp are limited by his Audio Precision gear.True not from first hand experience but a good friend and amp fanatic has compared and the 3886 is better, if one of the nicer ones designed by a diy'er, and in fact it was the modulus 386 that he said is the best amp he has ever heard anywhere. But apples to apples comparison is Chinese 3116 vs Chinese 3886 then 3116 is not so bad. But if you want to compare a top of the line DIY 3886 then compare to the Gmarsh Wiener 3116 with all the fixin's including $110 Cinemags and you may have some competition, but not with the modulus 386 as that is currently THE BEST amp period. We have no argument.
My card's an attempt to make the best possible host for the TPA3118 chip, for fans/enthusiasts of the chip. I like to think everything surrounding the chip is "done right" - there's nothing in the external parts selection, layout, power supply decoupling, etc... that should limit the performance of the overall amp. But the TPA3118 itself has its own performance limitations, and secondly there's going to be interaction between the speaker impedance and the output filter due to the lack of post-filter feedback.
The latter isn't a nonlinear phenomenon so it won't create distortion, but it'll cause roll-off or peaking at high frequencies if your speaker impedance doesn't match the output filter's designed load impedance. You can mitigate this if you know your speakers' impedance vs frequency curve, and can design an appropriate zobel network so the amp sees 4/6/8/whatever ohms over the audible frequency range. But you can't really fix the former.
I'm gonna kick off the next group buy of Wiener cards tonight. I'm doing another round of the same card, as well as a PBTL monoblock version of the card.
A couple of recent reads about op amps leads me to believe the cap C15 is a good mod consideration.
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