I'm using heavily modified YJ black board, and it is ok for what it is.. Last week my close friend bought sure tpa3116. He was not happy with the sound. So we tried sure board with my YJ power supply. Indeed, it was overbright and edgy. SMPS is adjusted to 21V. We also replaced 220uf caps with nichicon PW's. No change. Tried different speakers... Nothing. It sounds disturbed and not clean. My freaking ugly YJ black has much better sound.
Are we missing something?
Are we missing something?
maybe output filters that do not fit the speakers?
i have a sure-board, too, and it is not too bad even with 8ohm-speakers.
i have a sure-board, too, and it is not too bad even with 8ohm-speakers.
maybe output filters that do not fit the speakers?
i have a sure-board, too, and it is not too bad even with 8ohm-speakers.
What do you mean? Inductors?
We tried 4ohm-8ohm speakers. 8ohm speakers has 98dB sensitivity, 4ohm 90dB. I do not remember third one..
What voltage are you using?
My modified Astron RS-12A has a nominal 13.8VDC output, and it measures at 14VDC.
Do you know how the tone/crossover control works? I Can make it sound great by balancing this with the sub volume, but I don't know why.
According to the seller (left to right):
1) Stereo volume
2) Subwoofer frequency 80-500hz
3) Subwoofer volume
Since there's no calibration for the frequency, you will have to guesstimate. I have mine crossed in the 125-50 range. Believe it or not my stereo/bass volumes are switched. You just have to play around with the controls until you find a sweet spot.
I am all for seeking perfection with these boards, but one of the great appeals with them is their price to sound quality ratio. Dug's new boards with parts ($50), Cinemags ($150), quality power supply like an Astron (b/c if we are seeking the best sound, then one cannot skimp here) ($50-100), and nice chassis with connectors and terminals ($50-100), brings you to $300-400. Maybe the sound quality of such a system would make this project worthwhile, competing well against amps 2-3x the cost, but my modified YJ with Astron PS cost me $75 and sounds amazing as it is. Besides, and this is a sincere question since I know nothing about PCB design and manufacturing, but wasn't the YJ designed by member Danzz? I buy directly from YJ and never had a bad board, especially one with loud popping sounds on power up/down that everyone seems to be experiencing with these boards. Are Chinese PCBs inherently inferior?Save up your money and buy dug's mono block. They sound better stock relative to any Chinese 3116 pcb mod'd with cinemags. If you get mono's with cinemags like I have. IMO, you will have reached the pinnacle or darn near of the what the 3116 IC is capable in SQ as a class D.
Hi guys, what would be the sane power to supply 6 channels? I want to build a home theater system. I'm thinking about 24V 200W SMPS.
Yes board is copy of first published attempt by Danzz, he was in the process of...so would Danzz ever have produced his first attempt that YJ stole/copied? No, he was implementing improvements suggested by others and found by himself when YJblue appeared on market, with all weaknesses/faults copied from first published layout, Danzz's board already was different then, better but never produced I believe, maybe because Danzz thought it was harder then he thought to design good board?
But maybe Danzz still reads this thread and has better memory 🙂
But maybe Danzz still reads this thread and has better memory 🙂
I am all for seeking perfection with these boards, but one of the great appeals with them is their price to sound quality ratio. Dug's new boards with parts ($50), Cinemags ($150), quality power supply like an Astron (b/c if we are seeking the best sound, then one cannot skimp here) ($50-100), and nice chassis with connectors and terminals ($50-100), brings you to $300-400. Maybe the sound quality of such a system would make this project worthwhile, competing well against amps 2-3x the cost, but my modified YJ with Astron PS cost me $75 and sounds amazing as it is. Besides, and this is a sincere question since I know nothing about PCB design and manufacturing, but wasn't the YJ designed by member Danzz? I buy directly from YJ and never had a bad board, especially one with loud popping sounds on power up/down that everyone seems to be experiencing with these boards. Are Chinese PCBs inherently inferior?
Yes, I still show my nose time to time from behind the courtains, I never had stop reading this thread, but at the moment I not have much time for my diyaudio bug... So I can't add any news to the thread... But I have learned a lot from it.
Yes, you are right I designed that board following the TI schematic, I posted it, and some members like Jean Paul and Saturnus where very helpful with some ideal matters that had to be apply to my design, like puting the boostrap caps closer to the IC and better using xr7 smd, also the inductors position... Later on it came the other improvements, that I did apply to my later design, that had pads and holes to use either through holes or smd parts, the inductor where changed for smaller size from Bourns to fit in well in a 10x5cm... Etc
But in some mail exchanged with xrk were I told him that I was a bit upset that YJ copied my design, wich by the way my idea was to post it free for the forum members, but he told me, and he was right, that some how the fact that YJ copied, made things for the forum members easier, as each one could by it for a better price than buying the boards and the the parts from digikey or anyother, somehow I agree with this statement. The fact that YJ copied it, maybe was the best for us, we could get it already done for a few bucks, and it's a board that was easy to mod, so... What really matter at the end of this history, it's that my board still there, available for everyone at very reasonable price.
I still have those designs in my computer, even a design I made for xrk so he could have a board of the size of a minidsp to be easy to fit on top of it... Wich by the way I still owe him, the design it's finished, but never had the time to finish the BOM. That boards I believe it can be great as it can be used btl of pbtl, 2x100W or 4x50w, and has all the improvents that were reported here. I will try to post it in a while, I'm writing from my tablet right now....
My next idea was to design a board with the space enough for a little power caps bank and to be able to fit some edcors transformers.
I hope that in a couple months I might have the chance to go back to my little audio hobbie and be able to finish things I had to let in stand by... In fact I bought the other day the breeze amp, and a while ago I bought some tb tweeters for some project I would like to have done before the summer comes.
edit: to add the pdf file with the minidsp use tpa311x pcb design.
Yes, you are right I designed that board following the TI schematic, I posted it, and some members like Jean Paul and Saturnus where very helpful with some ideal matters that had to be apply to my design, like puting the boostrap caps closer to the IC and better using xr7 smd, also the inductors position... Later on it came the other improvements, that I did apply to my later design, that had pads and holes to use either through holes or smd parts, the inductor where changed for smaller size from Bourns to fit in well in a 10x5cm... Etc
But in some mail exchanged with xrk were I told him that I was a bit upset that YJ copied my design, wich by the way my idea was to post it free for the forum members, but he told me, and he was right, that some how the fact that YJ copied, made things for the forum members easier, as each one could by it for a better price than buying the boards and the the parts from digikey or anyother, somehow I agree with this statement. The fact that YJ copied it, maybe was the best for us, we could get it already done for a few bucks, and it's a board that was easy to mod, so... What really matter at the end of this history, it's that my board still there, available for everyone at very reasonable price.
I still have those designs in my computer, even a design I made for xrk so he could have a board of the size of a minidsp to be easy to fit on top of it... Wich by the way I still owe him, the design it's finished, but never had the time to finish the BOM. That boards I believe it can be great as it can be used btl of pbtl, 2x100W or 4x50w, and has all the improvents that were reported here. I will try to post it in a while, I'm writing from my tablet right now....
My next idea was to design a board with the space enough for a little power caps bank and to be able to fit some edcors transformers.
I hope that in a couple months I might have the chance to go back to my little audio hobbie and be able to finish things I had to let in stand by... In fact I bought the other day the breeze amp, and a while ago I bought some tb tweeters for some project I would like to have done before the summer comes.
edit: to add the pdf file with the minidsp use tpa311x pcb design.
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Danzz, thank you for your design and generous attitude! It is on your board that I learned how to solder and desolder compenents, which has helped me tackle other DIY projects that I never dreamed I could do. I am in your debt and the other great people on this forum, who have been very helpful and patient with newbies.
+1, these are my sentiments exactly. (My wife on the other hand is less impressed, as there has been a permanent mess on my work area since I got into these amps, maybe a year ago now? My work area happens to be our dining table.)Danzz, thank you for your design and generous attitude! It is on your board that I learned how to solder and desolder compenents, which has helped me tackle other DIY projects that I never dreamed I could do. I am in your debt and the other great people on this forum, who have been very helpful and patient with newbies.
You don't need cinemags which are $52 each. You don't need an astron 13.8v linear, I have a fully modded one, and don't use it. The SMPS I got for $30 which is 24v 5 amps sounds better. At 24V youll get more detail, punchier bass, more musical, slightly better sound stage.
I am all for seeking perfection with these boards, but one of the great appeals with them is their price to sound quality ratio. Dug's new boards with parts ($50), Cinemags ($150), quality power supply like an Astron (b/c if we are seeking the best sound, then one cannot skimp here) ($50-100), and nice chassis with connectors and terminals ($50-100), brings you to $300-400. Maybe the sound quality of such a system would make this project worthwhile, competing well against amps 2-3x the cost, but my modified YJ with Astron PS cost me $75 and sounds amazing as it is. Besides, and this is a sincere question since I know nothing about PCB design and manufacturing, but wasn't the YJ designed by member Danzz? I buy directly from YJ and never had a bad board, especially one with loud popping sounds on power up/down that everyone seems to be experiencing with these boards. Are Chinese PCBs inherently inferior?
The SMPS I got for $30 which is 24v 5 amps sounds better. At 24V youll get more detail, punchier bass, more musical, slightly better sound stage.
Would you mind sharing the make/model with us? Link? For $30 I'll definitely try it, since I have noticed distortion when I push my YJ/Astron too far.
If your having noise on the astron, going to a SMPS wont help. However, SMPS on the mono is dead silent, but consider the mono has better parts, better design, avcc mod (cap right on the pin), parts are closer to chip all reducing noise. You wont get that with any of the Chinese boards that I know of.
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If your having noise on the astron, going to a SMPS wont help
I should have been clearer: I am getting distortion from clipping by pushing the amp too hard with speakers that aren't the most efficient. I have a 19.5 volt laptop brick which does not distort at the same level. But I would like to try your 24v SMPS, if you are willing to share that with us?
Youve reached the potential of that board in a stereo mode. With mono youll reach , per ti pbtl about 135-145 watts, double the power relative to stereo.
I should have been clearer: I am getting distortion from clipping by pushing the amp too hard with speakers that aren't the most efficient. I have a 19.5 volt laptop brick which does not distort at the same level. But I would like to try your 24v SMPS, if you are willing to share that with us?
Per the ti data sheet youll get higher output wattage, relative to higher input voltage. Will it be enough to cure the clipping or distortion....Who knows. The cheap chinese ceramics are probably partly to blame. Id suggest go buy a cheap computer 24v laptop,they are $8.
I should have been clearer: I am getting distortion from clipping by pushing the amp too hard with speakers that aren't the most efficient. I have a 19.5 volt laptop brick which does not distort at the same level. But I would like to try your 24v SMPS, if you are willing to share that with us?
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