Hi,
Peter,
Apparently this cable is thought to be cause of trouble by a few people:
GOERTZ.
Note also that highly capacitive LS cable can render quite a few solid state amps unstable, regardless of brandname of both cable and amp.
BTW, just out of curiosity, how much of the sonic results would you attribute to the choice of passive components, percentagewise?
Cheers,😉
Peter,
Apparently this cable is thought to be cause of trouble by a few people:
GOERTZ.
Note also that highly capacitive LS cable can render quite a few solid state amps unstable, regardless of brandname of both cable and amp.
BTW, just out of curiosity, how much of the sonic results would you attribute to the choice of passive components, percentagewise?
Cheers,😉
fdegrove said:
BTW, just out of curiosity, how much of the sonic results would you attribute to the choice of passive components, percentagewise?
Between 30-40% . This amps can be made to sound terribly (although it's not easy to make) and they may also sound very impressive. You figure out how much percantage it is😉
We've been optimising the final configration through many experiments and we tried many different parts. It seems like some of them work much better than others. What Brian is selling in a kit now, is exactly the choice we figured works the best for this amps. It took us almost a year to reach this stage.
I'm still making it p2p in Amp-1, but future models will use PCBs. They are just too convenient to be ignored and if made properly, I don't see deterioration in performance. It took Brian and his idea of a kit, to change my mind about PCBs. I kinda like them now 😉
As to Goertz, I'm still using copper foil in one of my systems, but I run two wires separately, so capacitance is not an issue. It seems to work well this way.
Hi,
No need to tell you where mine would end up I reckon...
Thanx, P.😉
It took Brian and his idea of a kit, to change my mind about PCBs. I kinda like them now
No need to tell you where mine would end up I reckon...
Thanx, P.😉
It has been suggested that the best value for a gainclone pot is 25k. Would it be ok to use a 100K pot with a 33k shunt resistor will that be alright? Thanks
milo
milo
25k for NI GC is good as suggested input impedance for that circuit is approx 22k. I've been using 50k pot with 22k shunt resistor across and it was OK too. I wouldn't really recommend 100k, but if you don't have other choice it will work as well. Just make shure that it's shunted and max input imp that the chip "see" between +IN and ground is approx 22k or so.
Ok, so lets say that I use a 100K pot with an ~18k shunt resistor. That gives me a top resistance of ~15.25k where your 50k 22k combo is about 15.27k. Will it be particularly twitchy or fine in its adjustment because I am using a 100K pot?
Thanks
Milo
Thanks
Milo
No, it's not twitchy at all. You may even go for higher combined resistance, the only inconvenience is increasing DC offset at the output. So if you'll get too much of it, just reduce input impedance. That's all.
For instance, with 50K pot without shunt resistor, the offset was reaching as high as 350mV. Adding shunt resistor, decreases that value to more reasonable, 60mV, or so.
For instance, with 50K pot without shunt resistor, the offset was reaching as high as 350mV. Adding shunt resistor, decreases that value to more reasonable, 60mV, or so.
Ok great thankyou.
<sheepish silly question that should have been asked before all this>
A shunt resistor is a resistor in parallel with the pot right?
</sheepish silly question that should have been asked before all this>
Thanks again
Milo
<sheepish silly question that should have been asked before all this>
A shunt resistor is a resistor in parallel with the pot right?
</sheepish silly question that should have been asked before all this>
Thanks again
Milo
The shunt resistor is the one from +IN (on a chip) to ground. If you mount this resistor between input pin on the pot at ground, the dynamics will suffer. In other words, the resistor has to be mounted "after" the pot.
Right thanks, I just read the Harry Haller passive pre threads which helped explain a lot about this. Thank you Peter.
Milo
Milo
I want to use a 4,7k ladder-steppot. Is this a problem? Should I disconnect the ground resister (22k)?
regards
Günter
regards
Günter
Try both ways (with and without shunting Caddock). For some reason it seems to sound better when Caddock is there.
Today I made an A/B test (from hearing place with relais) between my favourite JLH update and my GC. The parts used in the GC are of a very high quality (BG N, BG FK, Caddock), whereas the JLH uses only Slitfoil and Panasonic FC.
I listened to a lot of different CD´s.
I prefere the JLH in all aspects. More details, wider soundstage and more dynamic. All kinds of instruments and voices seems to be more authentic.
The GC sounds, if you regard the costs very, very good. For all, who don´t want to spend a lot iof money for heatsicks it is the ideal amp.
My amp-ranking is:
1. JLH update 2003
2. Hiraga with battery PS
3. Gainclone
4. X-SOZ
5. ZEN V1
6. ZEN V4
I listened to a lot of different CD´s.
I prefere the JLH in all aspects. More details, wider soundstage and more dynamic. All kinds of instruments and voices seems to be more authentic.
The GC sounds, if you regard the costs very, very good. For all, who don´t want to spend a lot iof money for heatsicks it is the ideal amp.
My amp-ranking is:
1. JLH update 2003
2. Hiraga with battery PS
3. Gainclone
4. X-SOZ
5. ZEN V1
6. ZEN V4
Selfmade said:
1. JLH update 2003
2. Hiraga with battery PS
3. Gainclone
4. X-SOZ
5. ZEN V1
6. ZEN V4
I wonder if anyone has experience of how an aleph or aleph X would rank compaired to the above ?
Peter Daniel has compared them quite some time ago.
I had the chance as well recently.This is my opinion
1.AlephX
2.Battery powered gainclone w preamp or buffer driven in pseudo balanced mode
3.As above 2 but AC ps
4.Aleph5
I think gainclones tend to be sensitive to speaker matching and don't sound their best when driven hard.For me the advantages in adding a good buffer or preamp are obvious particularly if you can drive them in balanced mode.Battery power is a very significant step up in terms of harmonic purity , smoothness and depth.
I recently transformed my Aleph 5's to Aleph X and can say it is a huge improvement as you can see above.However the batt pwered gainclone is not that far behind at all and might sound better in some respects to people that want a very neutral sound.In some ways the Aleph X may seem to veer Towards a more punchy but liquid sound than absolute neutrality while the gainclone would tend to sound more correctly proportioned or flat depending on subjective viewpoint and accompanying equipment .
Since you 3/4 of the way ther I suggest you try the above options with your gc.
I had the chance as well recently.This is my opinion
1.AlephX
2.Battery powered gainclone w preamp or buffer driven in pseudo balanced mode
3.As above 2 but AC ps
4.Aleph5
I think gainclones tend to be sensitive to speaker matching and don't sound their best when driven hard.For me the advantages in adding a good buffer or preamp are obvious particularly if you can drive them in balanced mode.Battery power is a very significant step up in terms of harmonic purity , smoothness and depth.
I recently transformed my Aleph 5's to Aleph X and can say it is a huge improvement as you can see above.However the batt pwered gainclone is not that far behind at all and might sound better in some respects to people that want a very neutral sound.In some ways the Aleph X may seem to veer Towards a more punchy but liquid sound than absolute neutrality while the gainclone would tend to sound more correctly proportioned or flat depending on subjective viewpoint and accompanying equipment .
Since you 3/4 of the way ther I suggest you try the above options with your gc.
Protos
Well, I was listening to a battery powered balanced wkg gain clone but I have now prefer a mains powered ( but choke regulated ) balanced working JLH simple class A.
So for you the aleph X is at the top of the pile
and for me my balanced JLH is at the top of the pile
This is the comparison that I am most interested to hear about
Is there anyone out there who has heard both
mike
Well, I was listening to a battery powered balanced wkg gain clone but I have now prefer a mains powered ( but choke regulated ) balanced working JLH simple class A.
So for you the aleph X is at the top of the pile
and for me my balanced JLH is at the top of the pile
This is the comparison that I am most interested to hear about
Is there anyone out there who has heard both
mike
protos said:Peter Daniel has compared them quite some time ago.
I had the chance as well recently.This is my opinion
1.AlephX
2.Battery powered gainclone w preamp or buffer driven in pseudo balanced mode
3.As above 2 but AC ps
4.Aleph5
I think gainclones tend to be sensitive to speaker matching and don't sound their best when driven hard.For me the advantages in adding a good buffer or preamp are obvious particularly if you can drive them in balanced mode.Battery power is a very significant step up in terms of harmonic purity , smoothness and depth.
I recently transformed my Aleph 5's to Aleph X and can say it is a huge improvement as you can see above.However the batt pwered gainclone is not that far behind at all and might sound better in some respects to people that want a very neutral sound.In some ways the Aleph X may seem to veer towards a more punchy but liquid sound than absolute neutrality while the gainclone would tend to sound more correctly proportioned or flat depending on subjective viewpoint and accompanying equipment .
Since you 3/4 of the way ther I suggest you try the above options with your gc.
And how would a battery powered Aleph-X sound? 😉
Ah you french! You like your excesses don't you?😉
Don't get me started on battery power for the Aleph X because I have been thinking about it.
In some ways simple since you could make it work from two 12v batteries but you would need some huge mothers for that.I guess a minimum of 25Ah in order to give 3hrs worth of operation.Plus another set for the other monoblock.
But that is for another thread.
Don't get me started on battery power for the Aleph X because I have been thinking about it.
In some ways simple since you could make it work from two 12v batteries but you would need some huge mothers for that.I guess a minimum of 25Ah in order to give 3hrs worth of operation.Plus another set for the other monoblock.
But that is for another thread.
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