I think IKEA/Sonos beat me to it:
SYMFONISK Picture frame with Wi-Fi speaker, white - IKEA
Then on the other hand maybe wallspeakers become more acceptable. What is my advantage ?
Are you asking about an advantage for your personal use or for a commercial product you intend to develop? Two very different things.
For personal use, your speaker will have higher quality drivers and be exactly what you want (given your constraints). The drivers of the Ikea speaker are closer in size/quality to the VisaWall design you said didn't amuse you. Ikea internals shown here:
Ikea HomeKit-compatible Symfonisk picture frame speaker coming July 15 | AppleInsider
IKEA and Sonos Want You to Hang Your Speakers on a Wall
From a commercial product standpoint, the audio business is absolutely brutal. Many high quality products and people have been chewed up and spit out throughout its history. A common theme in many companies is a founder with a high tech/high pay day job that decides their audio hobby would make a fun business, so starts a company. Their day job (or large pile of cash) provides breathing room for the company to find its way.
I don't want to be too discouraging to anyone's dreams, but also don't want people to think audio is a simple industry to thrive in. The lower end of the market is particularly difficult. Large/well-funded companies can sell mass market products at lower prices than I could sell the boxes the products ship in (assumes very low volumes for me, obviously).
The lower end is also full of products of good quality now. Drivers have improved a lot, cheap DSP is a thing, and the manufacturers have sacrificed the things they need to to make lower-price products that sound very good considering the tiny amount of money they have in the drivers themselves. Without huge volume, as a commercial concern you typically can't outperform a good product on the market at their price point, unless you have some new trick up your sleeve.
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The scenario is a bit different at the high end of the market, but many people are competing there now as well, for the reasons I stated above.
If you have a high retail price point, you can obviously spend a lot more on drivers and get more performance than the mass-market gear. You also shrink your potential market to those that care about that level of reproduction and can afford your product.
As a quick estimate, plan on a retail price of 10x driver cost, assuming pretty simple construction.
If you have a high retail price point, you can obviously spend a lot more on drivers and get more performance than the mass-market gear. You also shrink your potential market to those that care about that level of reproduction and can afford your product.
As a quick estimate, plan on a retail price of 10x driver cost, assuming pretty simple construction.
Don't give up my dayjob I guess (-;
B&O is the biggest player in Denmark with about 80% of the danish speaker market, and even they can't make money.
What happened to Soundwall, you don't hear much about them anymore ? Soundwall Art Speaker
B&O is the biggest player in Denmark with about 80% of the danish speaker market, and even they can't make money.
What happened to Soundwall, you don't hear much about them anymore ? Soundwall Art Speaker
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I don't remember hearing much about them, but so many random products come and go that it's hard to keep track of those that don't get much traction. I also don't keep up with distributed mode speakers, as the idea rubs me the wrong way for high quality reproduction.
Stumbled across this though. Bracing and skinny internals are similar to what you are shooting for. Obviously on a bigger scale, but seemed worth sharing.
JL Audio Fathom IWS-SYS-1 In-Wall Subwoofer System
JL Audio Fathom IWS-SYS-1 In-Wall Subwoofer System Review | Sound & Vision
Stumbled across this though. Bracing and skinny internals are similar to what you are shooting for. Obviously on a bigger scale, but seemed worth sharing.
JL Audio Fathom IWS-SYS-1 In-Wall Subwoofer System
JL Audio Fathom IWS-SYS-1 In-Wall Subwoofer System Review | Sound & Vision
This plate moves with the radiator and will extend out beyond the basket at high excursion. Attached image has the permanent bit circled.
The extra weight shown in the picture and wing nut are removable. The mounting bolt will need to be cut off for your application given the current depth restriction.
How much excursion in mm. is there without added mass ?
Stumbled across this though. Bracing and skinny internals are similar to what you are shooting for. Obviously on a bigger scale, but seemed worth sharing.
JL Audio Fathom IWS-SYS-1 In-Wall Subwoofer System
JL Audio Fathom IWS-SYS-1 In-Wall Subwoofer System Review | Sound & Vision
Great article (so funny)
Driver looks like an earthquake
The passive radiator interacts with the cabinet volume mostly through the side basket cutouts. The path through the back has a spider in the way, so there's some flow resistance. And the total area from the back that's free of obstructions is pretty small compared to the total area of the basket cutouts around the sides.
I don't remember if I have that passive radiator, so not sure I can give you a number on the protrusion. I'll check when I get home. I have several of the 90 mm and smaller ones from Parts Express, so that's why I was already familiar with the weight system of that style radiator.
I don't remember if I have that passive radiator, so not sure I can give you a number on the protrusion. I'll check when I get home. I have several of the 90 mm and smaller ones from Parts Express, so that's why I was already familiar with the weight system of that style radiator.
The radiator arrived today. It is difficult for me to work with, since the weigth is sticking an additional 5mm. out of the gasket at the back - making the total depth about 50mm or 2".

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Are you talking about depth with the added weight that's still shown in your picture? You don't need that one. That is "added mass", as I described previously. The base radiator specifications are for no added mass of any kind (no removable weights, no wing nut). I also previously suggested cutting off the bolt for extra weights to to reduce depth further.
Also as discussed previously, if you look at this as an experimental step, you can use the ND105-PR without modification by including a mounting plate or whatever means you need to make it work. Listen to it, decide if it and the 5 liter enclosure are remotely what you need, then work to replace it with a different style radiator or do the modifications to the ND105-PR to reduce its depth.
Or spend forever looking for the elusive radiator that's exactly what you might need assuming all your other assumptions are correct. Exhaustively optimizing a part that shouldn't exist is one of the sins of product design.
Also as discussed previously, if you look at this as an experimental step, you can use the ND105-PR without modification by including a mounting plate or whatever means you need to make it work. Listen to it, decide if it and the 5 liter enclosure are remotely what you need, then work to replace it with a different style radiator or do the modifications to the ND105-PR to reduce its depth.
Or spend forever looking for the elusive radiator that's exactly what you might need assuming all your other assumptions are correct. Exhaustively optimizing a part that shouldn't exist is one of the sins of product design.
1. step accomplished.
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Should I also recess the backplate between the woofer and the radiators ?

Should I also recess the backplate between the woofer and the radiators ?
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If you like.
I doubt there'll be a significant difference either way.
Including a larger recess will make the overall load the radiator sees more similar to a more open/larger enclosure. But the side openings in the basket are much larger than the restricted opening at the back, so probably not a large difference.
I doubt there'll be a significant difference either way.
Including a larger recess will make the overall load the radiator sees more similar to a more open/larger enclosure. But the side openings in the basket are much larger than the restricted opening at the back, so probably not a large difference.
I want to build flat panel speakers. I am looking for advice on best surface material to use for quality sound. Thickness, reinforcement, etc...
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