Hello,
Thanks everyone for replying, i went with sticking to the plan. Used a flush router bit with a smaller bearing, and then a normal flush router bit for the second half. Short work if you have carpenter friends who tell you the tricks. Im giving the magnets a little black paint so they sound better.
Some more pictures!
Ill keep you guys posted!
Thanks everyone for replying, i went with sticking to the plan. Used a flush router bit with a smaller bearing, and then a normal flush router bit for the second half. Short work if you have carpenter friends who tell you the tricks. Im giving the magnets a little black paint so they sound better.
Ill keep you guys posted!
Finally cut some wood to start on xsd cabs. The base of the wings elongate in yours, but I don't have enough wood to do the same thing, at least in one piece. Would it be detrimental to just make the wings a straight board? I'll still cut out the angle on the top. If so, I'll just make an extra piece and glue it on
Yes, that’s fine. The elongation at the base provides stability so it doesn’t tip over. There is some nominal increase in bass extension but not much.
Ok cool that's what I figured. Thanks X
Will probably stabilize by some other means if the straight boards don't provide enough
Will probably stabilize by some other means if the straight boards don't provide enough
My half finished cobbled together attempt using reclaimed Ipe for the slob. It using 8" Ciare HW-210. I want to reduce the height to allow the FR driver to sit on top. With that in mind I'm thinking of building another frame with aluminium and partial vertical over lapping of the drivers. I gather it's okay to reduce the hole size to the piston diameter derived from driver Sd so measured from the center of surround roll, and adding a little foam spacer so the rubber doesn't hit the baffle. But perhaps that would add a cavity resonance between the outer half of the surround roll.
Well, no worries about stability with ipe. You'll just need to buy new blades and router bits and maybe some drill bits since you have to pre-drill. 3490 on the Janka Hardness Scale. There's a few woods harder than that but not many.
https://www.wood-database.com/top-ten-hardest-woods/
https://www.wood-database.com/top-ten-hardest-woods/
The plan was/is to use some flexible plywood glued in layers to make some curves wings, but never got around to that, and just had some scrap ply held on with decorators tape. The bass was very powerful with the wings on playing back Angel, by Massive Attach.
The Ipe was someones decking that I got cheap. It looked rather grey and tied until my thickness planer ( TCT spiral block ) made light work of it. A weakness is the lack of material separating each hole and their the grain is in the weakest direction, hence the glued cross braces. Gluing Ipe is difficult. There are threaded rods sandwiching it all together, so it can be dissaseembled to remove the speakers inside and fit different width cavities. I did the holes with a bi metal (maybe % colbalt) holesaw which suprisingly managed okay. I've got a fair sized drill press that can do low speed which helps. Perhaps I should have used a router but I'm not so good with using them.
The Ipe was someones decking that I got cheap. It looked rather grey and tied until my thickness planer ( TCT spiral block ) made light work of it. A weakness is the lack of material separating each hole and their the grain is in the weakest direction, hence the glued cross braces. Gluing Ipe is difficult. There are threaded rods sandwiching it all together, so it can be dissaseembled to remove the speakers inside and fit different width cavities. I did the holes with a bi metal (maybe % colbalt) holesaw which suprisingly managed okay. I've got a fair sized drill press that can do low speed which helps. Perhaps I should have used a router but I'm not so good with using them.