Thanks.
I think you covered that earlier on here, but I read so many different threads and have many projects going.
I found that even on the original version a lower XO point was better with my active or passive crossovers.
there was considerable 300-400hz bloom that was helped by rolling off lower
today's project is a set of Marage OM7's with all ten drivers blown
Thanks. Sorry I had forgotten that you made the 6.5in version, also with LE5.
Which one has better bass would you say?
There is an active crossover maker called Xkitz. (Starts with X but no relation 🙂)
https://www.xkitz.com/
I bought a few to try but have not had a chance to test yet. Looks well made with quality components. Looks like a small shop start up by expert electrical engineers at LLNL in Livermore.
Which one has better bass would you say?
There is an active crossover maker called Xkitz. (Starts with X but no relation 🙂)
https://www.xkitz.com/
I bought a few to try but have not had a chance to test yet. Looks well made with quality components. Looks like a small shop start up by expert electrical engineers at LLNL in Livermore.
I would have to set up an A B listening session to tell
seems to sound the same and measure the same
I think the port dimensions dominate and control many of the characteristics
and adding 1.5 in of depth /height doesn't change much
my opinion is six 8's are a viable option
That xkits looks neat!
I would like to get the NP xover kit from the store here, its on my too do list
( what he used in the original article)
no sorry's no worries, you deal with far more people than I ever will.
Thanks
I just went to dry fit the GRS woofer and mark the screw holes, 5.5 inches is too small for the underside of the flange for the woofers that are not mounted inverted. Fortunately I have a spindle sander to open it up and though it will not be as accurate as the original hole no one will see it.
Bill
Bill
Attachments
I have had issues with the diameter on the ones I had built also. and I used a small spindle sander on Dremel tool to open it up. Good luck on your build WW!
I removed about 1/16” and was good to go. Funny it looked like a simple build but far from it. The flat pack would simplify things if the freight was not so much.
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
I am hoping to complete mine in a few months. I have the base plates, baffle, and woofer housing assembled. Strips to mount side panels are attached to the back of the baffle, and the side panels are cut but need a little sanding before I can get to painting and final assembly. I can only do major woodworking like that in the summer and it's just now getting warm enough here for me to be willing to go out in the garage and do that. However I need to clean my pit of a garage first.
I'm planning to finish the woofer department in a few months and experimenting with the mid-tweeter section later.
Getting closer to finishing them up. Ended up using some teak veneered plywood I had lying around for the front. Made a few mistakes but they are turning out pretty nicely overall. Should have them up and running in a week or so.
Beautiful work! Finally some movement on this thread.
The teak veneer ply looks wonderful. Great choice.
The teak veneer ply looks wonderful. Great choice.