On your prototype speakers and most of your renderings you show the wings being screwed on, is it necessary to install the woofers? I would prefer a cleaner look with the panels rabbited and glued solid. Also what is the pro/ con for mounting the tweeter and full range speaker in a removable panel.
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You can make the wings solid mounted and the woofer array then needs to be screwed in to be removable. This is needed to install the woofers.
Got it with the woofers cancelling each other not a bad solution. Did you run these with you Alpha Nirvana configures for 8 ohms or did you change it to 4? I purchased one of these for the heck of it but it is an un-known for sound quality and I would prefer something I am familiar with.
Bill
Bill
I did not reconfigure my AN for 4 ohms and it was able to drive the XSDs. What Class D amp module is that?
I used with my TPA3255 Warp-1 and that combo is fantastic. The bass was slamming.
I used with my TPA3255 Warp-1 and that combo is fantastic. The bass was slamming.
Looks like the one in this thread, https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/2x150w-amp-module-for-sale.388868/ I've been keeping an eye on it, curious to hear how people say it sounds.
On the note of Noico, is Dynamat acceptable as a substitute? I already have a bit of it from some previous speaker projects.
On the note of Noico, is Dynamat acceptable as a substitute? I already have a bit of it from some previous speaker projects.
I am currently listening to one of those very amplifier modules. It passed initial testing with test speakers last night. Connected it to my main system a moment ago. I can find no fault with it so far. I think it sounds very good and appears to be of high-quality construction. The heatsink is warm, but not worrying. I will be building a 6 channel amp with these soon for DSP crossover work.
It slices nicely with utility knife too. Use a blunt object to rub the foil side to get the sticky side to adhere.
What size board should I build the crossover on to fit the back porch era of the speaker?
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
Mine was 230mm W x 130mm D - there is still a bit more room to make it deeper but that should fit everything you need.
So I was scratching my head how to do a nice diy board and recalled using turrets on my guitar amps,they worked great in that application but the wiring and components were on the top of the board. Looking for a better solution I picked up on eyelet boards. I was able to purchase the boards , eyelets, and staking tool from Amplified Parts for about $50. I will post pictures (if I do a decent job) when I get the crossovers built.
Bill
Bill
Anyone here whippy enough with design layout to do a simple board eagle file or whatever? I am not, but such a Gerber would be great. Obviously, it couldn't have the part values printed on it to respect owner's intellectual property.
If doable, it's very simple to upload file to one of the board companies. Most charge about 5 bucks for five boards, usually about 20 bucks with shipping and very fast delivery. So everyone who does it will get an extra set, plus an odd one. Between us, only a few would have to order, share the spares. I will be glad to order a batch of 5. Never checked price for more than 5, maybe that's an option too. If you have never done this, you ought to try. Lots of projects out there with the board files ready to go.
If not doable, that's s understandable. At least it's mounted on the back, out of sight!
Russellc
If doable, it's very simple to upload file to one of the board companies. Most charge about 5 bucks for five boards, usually about 20 bucks with shipping and very fast delivery. So everyone who does it will get an extra set, plus an odd one. Between us, only a few would have to order, share the spares. I will be glad to order a batch of 5. Never checked price for more than 5, maybe that's an option too. If you have never done this, you ought to try. Lots of projects out there with the board files ready to go.
If not doable, that's s understandable. At least it's mounted on the back, out of sight!
Russellc
Nice idea, I'm watching!So I was scratching my head how to do a nice diy board and recalled using turrets on my guitar amps,they worked great in that application but the wiring and components were on the top of the board. Looking for a better solution I picked up on eyelet boards. I was able to purchase the boards , eyelets, and staking tool from Amplified Parts for about $50. I will post pictures (if I do a decent job) when I get the crossovers built.
Bill
Russellc
Anyone here whippy enough with design layout to do a simple board eagle file or whatever? I am not, but such a Gerber would be great. Obviously, it couldn't have the part values printed on it to respect owner's intellectual property.
If doable, it's very simple to upload file to one of the board companies. Most charge about 5 bucks for five boards, usually about 20 bucks with shipping and very fast delivery. So everyone who does it will get an extra set, plus an odd one. Between us, only a few would have to order, share the spares. I will be glad to order a batch of 5. Never checked price for more than 5, maybe that's an option too. If you have never done this, you ought to try. Lots of projects out there with the board files ready to go.
If not doable, that's s understandable. At least it's mounted on the back, out of sight!
Russellc
I suppose cost all depends on your PCB itself and who you have make the boards. I went with JLCPCB, for the minimum 5 boards, coming in at 250mm x 145mm, green silkscreen, 2mm thick, 2oz copper, and ENIG finish, was $99 before shipping. On the plus side they sent me 7 boards, likely due to FR4 sheet sizes.
Gerbers and whatnot might not be so easy to share, as this is a commercial product you'd probably want to make sure that X is on board with things as I believe he is looking to keep part values and possibly layouts/tracing under-wraps
Let me think about this. I just want to make sure that only folks who purchase the XO kit can get a XO PCB as the trace connections and values are proprietary. As Bloqhead has already made a layout and boards maybe we can work something out.
That's what meant by saying "if" do-able" and OK if not of course.I suppose cost all depends on your PCB itself and who you have make the boards. I went with JLCPCB, for the minimum 5 boards, coming in at 250mm x 145mm, green silkscreen, 2mm thick, 2oz copper, and ENIG finish, was $99 before shipping. On the plus side they sent me 7 boards, likely due to FR4 sheet sizes.
Gerbers and whatnot might not be so easy to share, as this is a commercial product you'd probably want to make sure that X is on board with things as I believe he is looking to keep part values and possibly layouts/tracing under-wraps
Russellc
I'm trying to have this end up looking like a nice purchased speaker, unlike my usual Frankenstein laboratory look. Have not yet contacted the cabinet man suggested, I would like something nice for the faceplate, like the one example in Mahogany one member showed.Let me think about this. I just want to make sure that only folks who purchase the XO kit can get a XO PCB as the trace connections and values are proprietary. As Bloqhead has already made a layout and boards maybe we can work something out.
I realize this is NOT going to be cheap. Shipping may force me to find someone local, both cost and likelihood of damage in the process of getting it here.
Russellc
That's who I used for my previous venture into board ordering. JLCPCB...very fast too.I suppose cost all depends on your PCB itself and who you have make the boards. I went with JLCPCB, for the minimum 5 boards, coming in at 250mm x 145mm, green silkscreen, 2mm thick, 2oz copper, and ENIG finish, was $99 before shipping. On the plus side they sent me 7 boards, likely due to FR4 sheet sizes.
Gerbers and whatnot might not be so easy to share, as this is a commercial product you'd probably want to make sure that X is on board with things as I believe he is looking to keep part values and possibly layouts/tracing under-wraps
I guess to keep commercial intellectual property secure, distribution of the file would have to be controlled in some fashion. We know what the crossover is, as it came with the crossover kit obviously.
I suppose we could each teach ourselves the process for making a file, should be simple for crossover. Single sided heavy copper traces.
It isn't my intellectual property, and owner of it must decide. On the other hand, we (the buyers of the crossover kits) have possession of crossover schematic. This would be no different in some ways, it would just be on a pcb instead of paper, right?
There is likely more to it than this, so will stand by. I feel pretty fortunate to be able to stand on shoulders of those who designed this, and own this design.
Back to sticking deadener to woofer baskets!
Russellc
I suppose we could each teach ourselves the process for making a file, should be simple for crossover. Single sided heavy copper traces.
It isn't my intellectual property, and owner of it must decide. On the other hand, we (the buyers of the crossover kits) have possession of crossover schematic. This would be no different in some ways, it would just be on a pcb instead of paper, right?
There is likely more to it than this, so will stand by. I feel pretty fortunate to be able to stand on shoulders of those who designed this, and own this design.
Back to sticking deadener to woofer baskets!
Russellc