And the reason to have the cone face on one and magnet on the other facing each other is so that the drivers move antiparallel relative to their mechanical construction to cancel out suspension induced harmonic distortion. It also makes the cavity volume smaller, thereby increasing the upper bandwidth.
X Would it be possible to use the exit from the slot to load a horn? I have seen a speaker with 4 bass drivers stacked vertically with curved panels on either side to make the horn.
Yes, and that would get you a few dB gain in midbass. To get bass gain horn would need to be several meters long.
Hi Plott,
From post 1 is a good layout that seems to work.
Wires are: input from amp is on left, tweeter is on top, midrange out is wire on lower right side, bass is lower left side.
Remember to make the coils orthogonal in axis and placed father apart if possible.
You could also copy this placement - the 3 large film caps on the top are two for the woofer in parallel and one for the midrange high pass.
From post 1 is a good layout that seems to work.
Wires are: input from amp is on left, tweeter is on top, midrange out is wire on lower right side, bass is lower left side.
Remember to make the coils orthogonal in axis and placed father apart if possible.
You could also copy this placement - the 3 large film caps on the top are two for the woofer in parallel and one for the midrange high pass.
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Hi, now some work done - but I forgot I don't have a zip tie anymore...
Wow! Beautiful and very professional looking job. You drilled an FRP (or phenolic) board and did P2P wiring underneath?
I appreciate your efforts to remove the part values before posting the photo. (I would ask others to do the same if you want to post photos of your XO - thanks).
I appreciate your efforts to remove the part values before posting the photo. (I would ask others to do the same if you want to post photos of your XO - thanks).
Many thanks X! Yes, I drilled the board and did p2p wiring, an easy 3-4 hours task (drilling two boards and populating one) 🙂
Almost finished, 4 zip ties still missing... but at the end it will look like this:
And some p2p wiring. I always drill the legs together and when I use a wire, I insert the blank wire to the leg and only then do I solder them together,
so that the metallic connection is made by the material of the wire and the parts leg, and not by the solder.
And some p2p wiring. I always drill the legs together and when I use a wire, I insert the blank wire to the leg and only then do I solder them together,
so that the metallic connection is made by the material of the wire and the parts leg, and not by the solder.
Plott,
That looks amazing! I got the cabinets today (will share photographs later), but yet to start on the cross over build as I am tied up with some personal work. I have sent you a PM with couple of questions.
That looks amazing! I got the cabinets today (will share photographs later), but yet to start on the cross over build as I am tied up with some personal work. I have sent you a PM with couple of questions.
Please ignore the mess, I have to store the speakers in the basement for now as I have an event at the home next weekend. But, the finish is lovely on these cabinets, he's indeed a master craftsman (thanks for the recommendation again, X!). I am still deciding on which way to go for the finish.. thinking about Watco danish oil or monocoat. Anyway, here are some photos for now:
EDIT: The photos and the light really don't do justice to how good they look and feel in person.
Wow those look phenomenal! I assume you must be within a relatively close distance to X's cabinet maker? As I get closer to starting, I wonder if it would just be better to go with a professional for these.
I am closer to X than to the cabinet maker, but it's not that bad. He's about 40 odd miles away and I love driving there on a Sunday morning as it's peaceful with less traffic and the drive is really nice (country side). These are probably going to be my main speakers and I wanted them done by someone who knows what they're doing 🙂.