I have received you order and should get time later today to process it and send your a response once it's entered.Hi Stuart
Sent my order form over twice a few weeks apart and haven’t got a response. Maybe my mails are going into spam?
I'll make an announcement a few days before ordering to ensure everyone who has placed an order had heard back from me.
Don't worry guys we are getting close now.
Hi Guy's,
I am now up-to-date with entering all outstanding orders and updates to existing ordets. If you haven't recieved a response from me regarding your order being entering or updated please reach out to me to confirm.
I am now up-to-date with entering all outstanding orders and updates to existing ordets. If you haven't recieved a response from me regarding your order being entering or updated please reach out to me to confirm.
Last edited:
I only need to partner with someone in my area to pay you Stuart. I don't use PayPal. Looking forward to it!
Too bad you can't use high quality PP capacitors at the input....
For 15mm pitch they are only in average quality both on mouser and digikey 😡 My faforite are from KEMET type PHE (Polypropylene film capacitor with vacuum evaporated aluminum electrodes)
...for this reason I would like to buy version 4 and more
For 15mm pitch they are only in average quality both on mouser and digikey 😡 My faforite are from KEMET type PHE (Polypropylene film capacitor with vacuum evaporated aluminum electrodes)
...for this reason I would like to buy version 4 and more
Hi HRDSTL,
I'm going to be perfectly honest with you. As long as you don't use a capacitor that acts as a filter, or something terrible like solid Tantalum / high K ceramic ... it matters not. Sensitive measurements would fail to show any difference, well below the human body's ability to sense it in any way, shape or form.
This is really a question of what you believe, not what you can actually hear. You're missing out, and that's fine.
I'm going to be perfectly honest with you. As long as you don't use a capacitor that acts as a filter, or something terrible like solid Tantalum / high K ceramic ... it matters not. Sensitive measurements would fail to show any difference, well below the human body's ability to sense it in any way, shape or form.
This is really a question of what you believe, not what you can actually hear. You're missing out, and that's fine.
Hi Guys,
Here is a picture of the V5 EF3-5 test build officially up and running, also a mock up layout for the mirrored channels, enjoy!
Here is a picture of the V5 EF3-5 test build officially up and running, also a mock up layout for the mirrored channels, enjoy!
Wolverine 5th Group Buy - Boards Tested, Order Imminent!
Hi Guys,We’ve hit a thrilling milestone in the Wolverine 5th Group Buy! I’m ecstatic to announce that the building and testing of the following boards are now complete:
- Wolverine IPS V5 Left & Right
- Precision EF3-3 V5 Left & Right
- Precision EF3-4 V5 Left & Right
- Precision EF3-5 V5 Left & Right
A huge thank you to @danieljw and @Mainframe for their incredible dedication in building and testing all production versions of these boards. Their hard work was a massive undertaking, and the entire Wolverine Team is blown away by the results. Your efforts have set the stage for an amazing group buy!
Over the next week, I’ll be finalizing the Gerber files for the group buy order. We’re on track to place the bulk order in 1-2 weeks, meaning these boards—complete with the stunning gold ENIG finish—will soon be ready for your builds. Fabrication typically takes about a 1-2 weeks, followed by 5-6 days for shipping, so we’re not far off!
If you’ve been hesitating, now is the time to join the 5th Group Buy! Don’t miss out on this chance to get your hands on these high-quality boards, perfect for everything from standard setups to demanding 4-ohm loads. For all the details, including pricing and the Excel order sheet, check out the first post in the Wolverine 5th Group Buy thread. Simply email your order to stuartmp@internode.on.net with the subject “Wolverine Project – Your DiyAudio Username.”
Thank you all for your patience and enthusiasm—this community’s passion is what makes the Wolverine project thrive. Stay tuned for more updates in the Wolverine Build Thread and Development Thread, and let’s keep building something extraordinary together!
Best regards,
Stuart (stuartmp) and the Wolverine Team
Great news fellas! GB progress is moving forward.
@stuartmp, how do I edit my original order sent in a couple weeks ago without bogging you down with another excel sheet?
@stuartmp, how do I edit my original order sent in a couple weeks ago without bogging you down with another excel sheet?
Please just send me a new order sheet it the easiest way for me.how do I edit my original order sent in a couple weeks ago without bogging you down with another excel sheet?
Hi,
I am new here and have a couple of questions I hope I can get help with:
1 - given a large enough power supply (1000-2000VA trafo 80.000uF) can the wolverine be bridged / support balanced input using +in for one channel and -in for the other? I would probably put an OPA1632 on the input to also handle single ended input. I am thinking EF3-5 and driving speakers that might dip to 3 Ohms. I would like to go for something that could give me 400W/8Ohm, 800W/4Ohm (being realistic this means it will have to be a bit more in 8Ohms) Question is if this is doable? And which power-supply voltage should I go for? I know bridging should result in 4 times the power, but I think that might be more theory than reality, hence the question. I also know that some will say this is totally overkill, but see this as a project, where I take a very high quality DIY amp and try to make a beast like the Mark Levinsons or Krells of old times.
2 - does the following sound correct for one stereo amplifier / bridged amplifier?
I am new here and have a couple of questions I hope I can get help with:
1 - given a large enough power supply (1000-2000VA trafo 80.000uF) can the wolverine be bridged / support balanced input using +in for one channel and -in for the other? I would probably put an OPA1632 on the input to also handle single ended input. I am thinking EF3-5 and driving speakers that might dip to 3 Ohms. I would like to go for something that could give me 400W/8Ohm, 800W/4Ohm (being realistic this means it will have to be a bit more in 8Ohms) Question is if this is doable? And which power-supply voltage should I go for? I know bridging should result in 4 times the power, but I think that might be more theory than reality, hence the question. I also know that some will say this is totally overkill, but see this as a project, where I take a very high quality DIY amp and try to make a beast like the Mark Levinsons or Krells of old times.
2 - does the following sound correct for one stereo amplifier / bridged amplifier?
- EF3-5 Heatsinks 22.50$ (what about driver transistors - they are not mentioned for EF3-5?)
- 10 transistor pairs - 60.00$
- 2 Dual Bridge Rectifier Board 25.00$
- 2 Speaker protection boards 40.00$ <------------- will this work in bridge mode?
- 2 T-Ground boards 10.00$
- 2 Ground lift boards 10.00$
- 2 x EF3-5 Boards (v5) 57.00$
I looked at this for a bit of a weird application, but when you look at the EF3-5 board you will note that the drivers are setup to be mounted flat on the main heatsink, unlike the EF3-4 there is no location for a board mounted driver heatsink.
800W into 4 ohms means about 80V peak, so 45V or so on the rails, but 20A peak (more at three ohms!), meaning you are hitting 4A per device on an EF3-5, marginal in my view, but should be okish into 8 ohms.
I make it 20 transistor pairs for a stereo bridged design BTW if going EF3-5.
The speaker protection should work, but you really also want some amplifier protection in there, speaker protection is not going to stop a short circuit eating your output stage.
I do worry about the driver transistors if doing this with an EF3-5, SOA there could be a real concern.
I am casually noodling with a class G output stage, conventional EF3-3 for the inner devices and some of those exion lateral mosfets for the outer, got the advantage that the mos is better from an SOA perspective, and with an inner rail at maybe 15V or so, I can avoid the entire SOA game for the inner devices, so a simple current limiter will do.
800W into 4 ohms means about 80V peak, so 45V or so on the rails, but 20A peak (more at three ohms!), meaning you are hitting 4A per device on an EF3-5, marginal in my view, but should be okish into 8 ohms.
I make it 20 transistor pairs for a stereo bridged design BTW if going EF3-5.
The speaker protection should work, but you really also want some amplifier protection in there, speaker protection is not going to stop a short circuit eating your output stage.
I do worry about the driver transistors if doing this with an EF3-5, SOA there could be a real concern.
I am casually noodling with a class G output stage, conventional EF3-3 for the inner devices and some of those exion lateral mosfets for the outer, got the advantage that the mos is better from an SOA perspective, and with an inner rail at maybe 15V or so, I can avoid the entire SOA game for the inner devices, so a simple current limiter will do.
I highly doubt that I will ever need 800W in 4 Ohms (may exceptionally short bursts) - it is more like I want something that has way overkill capabilties that I will never use - so incredibly oversized PSU (very stiff under load) while I am probably fine if it is 300W/8Ohm and 600W/4Ohms (I am driving B&W 800 series speakers, so they need some power)
This is going to be a slow project anyway, so I will probably go for 4 channels of EF3-5 without speaker protection and figure out the rest as I build / design the layout..
Good points around SOA and speaker/amp protection - thanks
This is going to be a slow project anyway, so I will probably go for 4 channels of EF3-5 without speaker protection and figure out the rest as I build / design the layout..
Good points around SOA and speaker/amp protection - thanks
Note EF3-5 designed for only parallel mount ie drivers also to main heatsink, under the PCB.
Wolverine was not designed with bridging in mind. That’s not to say it can’t be done (I think one builder tried it early on Stuart might know), but you’re way outside of target design scope and you’d be on your own. The EF3-5 is pretty tough, but bridging 2 into 3 ohms is something I would not consider feasible at those power levels. Recheck the newly added sheet 2 in the build thread with updated output power levels, you might find what you need. Also using a SMPS like cobra would give you the fast “amp” rail overcurrent protection you’d need at PA power levels in addition to the existing rail fuses.
Wolverine was not designed with bridging in mind. That’s not to say it can’t be done (I think one builder tried it early on Stuart might know), but you’re way outside of target design scope and you’d be on your own. The EF3-5 is pretty tough, but bridging 2 into 3 ohms is something I would not consider feasible at those power levels. Recheck the newly added sheet 2 in the build thread with updated output power levels, you might find what you need. Also using a SMPS like cobra would give you the fast “amp” rail overcurrent protection you’d need at PA power levels in addition to the existing rail fuses.
Ok, I think I will just order enough for two stereo amplifiers / 2 mono bridged amplifiers and then decide later if I will do 71V and bi-amping or lower voltage and bridging.
And I will have to look into the SMPS supply versus linear supply thing as well. I do have a thing for heavy linear power supplies, but I see more and more recommendations for SMPS.
Thanks for your help.
And I will have to look into the SMPS supply versus linear supply thing as well. I do have a thing for heavy linear power supplies, but I see more and more recommendations for SMPS.
Thanks for your help.
- Home
- Group Buys
- The Wolverine 5th Group buy