It's coming.....These are degrees F. This keeps coming out of my phone and the TV set. The TV guy says...."don't go outside Thursday."
Issuing Office: Pittsburgh
Source: National.Weather.Service:
WIND CHILL ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 2 AM THURSDAY TO 9 AM EST FRIDAY... * WIND CHILL... AS LOW AS 16 BELOW DUE TO TEMPERATURES 1 BELOW TO 14 ABOVE ZERO... AND WINDS WEST 15 TO 25 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 30 MPH. * IMPACTS... DANGEROUS WIND CHILLS MAY QUICKLY PRODUCE FROSTBITE ON EXPOSED SKIN. *
Issuing Office: Pittsburgh
Source: National.Weather.Service:
WIND CHILL ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 2 AM THURSDAY TO 9 AM EST FRIDAY... * WIND CHILL... AS LOW AS 16 BELOW DUE TO TEMPERATURES 1 BELOW TO 14 ABOVE ZERO... AND WINDS WEST 15 TO 25 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 30 MPH. * IMPACTS... DANGEROUS WIND CHILLS MAY QUICKLY PRODUCE FROSTBITE ON EXPOSED SKIN. *
-5 deg Celsius, but.. -11 RealFeel - hmm OK.
So I'm typing with one hand in my woolen glove with a jacquard motif on it, while listening to my alternate power injection DIY USB cable through the iFi iDSD Nano in battery mode, into my DIY Tubelab Single-Ended Triode Tube amp and into the Totem Mites.
Great sound, with less of the high "glare" than when the computer power is connected, despite the alternate power being an iPhone charger, therefore, a SMPS...
Since I didn't know much about the handshake process and VBus disconnection from the computer causes the device to be unrecognised, I didn't really think I'd be able to disconnect both VBus and GND. It's working fine.
Next, ultra low-noise Linear Regulated Power supply.
So I'm typing with one hand in my woolen glove with a jacquard motif on it, while listening to my alternate power injection DIY USB cable through the iFi iDSD Nano in battery mode, into my DIY Tubelab Single-Ended Triode Tube amp and into the Totem Mites.
Great sound, with less of the high "glare" than when the computer power is connected, despite the alternate power being an iPhone charger, therefore, a SMPS...
Since I didn't know much about the handshake process and VBus disconnection from the computer causes the device to be unrecognised, I didn't really think I'd be able to disconnect both VBus and GND. It's working fine.
Next, ultra low-noise Linear Regulated Power supply.
Yep that's in the scary cold zone especially with the wind up at -16F = -26.6C Brrrrr! We've got an extreme cold warning right now also for around the same time frame and near the same temps as your area by Friday.. Keep warm out there!
Currently shopping for a unit gas fireplace. This is horribly complicated by advertisers failing to mention whether or not the unit has thermostatic modulated variable flame height.
My house is not barn size; so, if the flame height is not variable, then the performance should be worse than the freeze-n-burn action of my central furnace (it does not have variable flame height either and that lack results in freeze-n-burn). And, in that case, I ought to do my best effort to avoid buying worse.
One does not want to purchase even worse freeze-n-burn on purpose.
There certainly are some that have done better than really idiotic output; however, their marketing teams have not mentioned those that do better. Thus, the shopping is, so far, absolutely impossible. Purchase of the needed item, is, likewise, so far, impossible. Still trying though.
Very irritated! I might phone their moms.
Currently rocking the insulated socks, insulated pants, and tank top.
My house is not barn size; so, if the flame height is not variable, then the performance should be worse than the freeze-n-burn action of my central furnace (it does not have variable flame height either and that lack results in freeze-n-burn). And, in that case, I ought to do my best effort to avoid buying worse.
One does not want to purchase even worse freeze-n-burn on purpose.
There certainly are some that have done better than really idiotic output; however, their marketing teams have not mentioned those that do better. Thus, the shopping is, so far, absolutely impossible. Purchase of the needed item, is, likewise, so far, impossible. Still trying though.
Very irritated! I might phone their moms.
Currently rocking the insulated socks, insulated pants, and tank top.
It was a balmy -14℃ here in Andover, Ma where I work when I got here this morning around 9:45AM. It was not a whole lot warmer down in Boston, just a couple of degrees in fact. Real feel is well into the negative teens..
Last night was punctuated by very brief snow squalls with winds of up to 70kph.
By Sunday it is supposed to be around 13℃ near Boston.
Last night was punctuated by very brief snow squalls with winds of up to 70kph.
By Sunday it is supposed to be around 13℃ near Boston.
Yesterday was as promised, not a fun day to be outside. I made it to the gym at 7 AM (9 degrees F) and got home at 8:15 AM (6 degrees F). The wind definitely sucked the warmth and moisture out of exposed skin quickly.
I stayed inside the rest of the day. That's all over now.
Today I was outside for about half an hour in 15 degree F weather filling car tires to make that glowing orange icon go away from Sherri's dash. I was not uncomfortable in flip flops and a T-Shirt (no wind). While I was outside I got a new alert on my phone:
Issuing Office: Pittsburgh
Source: National.Weather.Service
8:52am EST, Fri Dec 16
... FREEZING RAIN ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 10 PM THIS EVENING TO 8 AM EST SATURDAY... * ICE ACCUMULATIONS... AROUND A TENTH OF AN INCH. * TIMING... FREEZING RAIN WILL OVERSPREAD THE AREA LATE THIS EVENING AND CONTINUE OVERNIGHT BEFORE CHANGING TO ALL RAIN BEFORE DAWN ON SATURDAY. *
That's always good for some car crashes. We are supposed to go to a kid's birthday party to night. It's at a cop's house. I'm sure he will understand that I will be leaving at 9 PM. We both spent 2 hours digging my FWD Honda Element out of the ice at the bottom of his uphill driveway 2 years ago. We'll take the 4WD Pilot tonight.
The Element did start yesterday in 6 degree weather, but it cranked rather slowly.
I stayed inside the rest of the day. That's all over now.
Today I was outside for about half an hour in 15 degree F weather filling car tires to make that glowing orange icon go away from Sherri's dash. I was not uncomfortable in flip flops and a T-Shirt (no wind). While I was outside I got a new alert on my phone:
Issuing Office: Pittsburgh
Source: National.Weather.Service
8:52am EST, Fri Dec 16
... FREEZING RAIN ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 10 PM THIS EVENING TO 8 AM EST SATURDAY... * ICE ACCUMULATIONS... AROUND A TENTH OF AN INCH. * TIMING... FREEZING RAIN WILL OVERSPREAD THE AREA LATE THIS EVENING AND CONTINUE OVERNIGHT BEFORE CHANGING TO ALL RAIN BEFORE DAWN ON SATURDAY. *
That's always good for some car crashes. We are supposed to go to a kid's birthday party to night. It's at a cop's house. I'm sure he will understand that I will be leaving at 9 PM. We both spent 2 hours digging my FWD Honda Element out of the ice at the bottom of his uphill driveway 2 years ago. We'll take the 4WD Pilot tonight.
The Element did start yesterday in 6 degree weather, but it cranked rather slowly.
not cold inside
> unit gas fireplace.
> thermostatic modulated variable flame height.
> My house is not barn size; so, if the flame height is not variable, then the performance should be worse than the freeze-n-burn action of my central furnace
Hmmm. Sitting here with a rock-basic bang-bang furnace, with a bang-bang gas fireplace backup. Temperature inside is steady, today and all year.
We run the fireplace in a 12'x24' room, hardly barn-size. Plain room thermostat mounted 2' to the side of the center of the glass. It does over-run a wee bit in the first hour, because we don't start it until the walls have chilled. It does tend to be energetic, mostly because by the time we start it we want heat, and leave the setting a bit high. In cold weather we can turn the dial down a bit, it cycles every few minutes, and holds fairly constant heat in the room.
Fireplace is very different from a central furnace. The radiant heat out the glass is INSTANT. There is a zone you do not want to linger in. Properly distributed hot air should be more gentle.
"Freeze-n-burn" sounds _to_me_ like you were sold over-size gear. We had a little of that when our oil-guy kept re-jetting the 60,000BTU burner to 80,000BTU, on top of undersize ducts and loud air-noise. Doing my math, I decided this house's max demand (say today!) is something near 30,000BTU. No wonder the 60-80K furnace never ran even half the time! Alternately cooking and cooling. And due to undersize ducts, the delivered air was over 160F, which was cooking my elbow, and the firepot, and re-cycling on shut-down.
I was not sure of my numbers, so when I did not find a 30KBTU furnace I went for 38KBTU. (And had to argue to get that-- they said I could not have A/C at this size fan. BS!) The difference is that 4/3 the heat means 4/3 the air and duct-size. It happened that the warm ducts which were undersize for 80KBTU worked out fine at 40KBTU. The return duct work I just re-did properly.
I also had fiddled some of the distribution, adding a new room where existing rooms were over-warmed and routing the air through. And added a duct-blower for one room with over-back-around duct which had 4X the air resistance of any other.
Today this rig will run about 18 of 24 hours, cycling several times an hour. Heat is very uniform. The smaller newer furnace does not start with a bang/whoosh, so the cycling is just noticeable.
Thermostat location is very important. It must be in the general circulation, not an inside room with low air flow, and probably in the main living area. Ours is on the wall some feet over from the cool air return, so it senses all the air coming back from 3/4 of the house. (It is actually off the kitchen, and when we run the oven self-clean the heat of oven stalls the furnace- we sit near the fireplace for that.)
TONS of thermal mass is good, but can't be retro-fitted. Our floors are 2" thick, and full 1/2" drywall, which really helps hold a steady temperature. Last night at set-back the house dropped 6 deg F in 3.1 hours, ~2 deg F per hour. In less-bitter weather it was 6F/4hr, but we added attic fuzz and now I don't know how long it takes to drop 6F. (Maybe 8hr when outside is some above freezing.)
Leaks at windows, doors, pipes... nuf said. Look close: we had a big gap outside under the new bathroom window and stuffing that makes a difference in there. (Gap was discovered by an unusual number of spiders in the window space, not by actual draft- use all clues.)
> unit gas fireplace.
> thermostatic modulated variable flame height.
> My house is not barn size; so, if the flame height is not variable, then the performance should be worse than the freeze-n-burn action of my central furnace
Hmmm. Sitting here with a rock-basic bang-bang furnace, with a bang-bang gas fireplace backup. Temperature inside is steady, today and all year.
We run the fireplace in a 12'x24' room, hardly barn-size. Plain room thermostat mounted 2' to the side of the center of the glass. It does over-run a wee bit in the first hour, because we don't start it until the walls have chilled. It does tend to be energetic, mostly because by the time we start it we want heat, and leave the setting a bit high. In cold weather we can turn the dial down a bit, it cycles every few minutes, and holds fairly constant heat in the room.
Fireplace is very different from a central furnace. The radiant heat out the glass is INSTANT. There is a zone you do not want to linger in. Properly distributed hot air should be more gentle.
"Freeze-n-burn" sounds _to_me_ like you were sold over-size gear. We had a little of that when our oil-guy kept re-jetting the 60,000BTU burner to 80,000BTU, on top of undersize ducts and loud air-noise. Doing my math, I decided this house's max demand (say today!) is something near 30,000BTU. No wonder the 60-80K furnace never ran even half the time! Alternately cooking and cooling. And due to undersize ducts, the delivered air was over 160F, which was cooking my elbow, and the firepot, and re-cycling on shut-down.
I was not sure of my numbers, so when I did not find a 30KBTU furnace I went for 38KBTU. (And had to argue to get that-- they said I could not have A/C at this size fan. BS!) The difference is that 4/3 the heat means 4/3 the air and duct-size. It happened that the warm ducts which were undersize for 80KBTU worked out fine at 40KBTU. The return duct work I just re-did properly.
I also had fiddled some of the distribution, adding a new room where existing rooms were over-warmed and routing the air through. And added a duct-blower for one room with over-back-around duct which had 4X the air resistance of any other.
Today this rig will run about 18 of 24 hours, cycling several times an hour. Heat is very uniform. The smaller newer furnace does not start with a bang/whoosh, so the cycling is just noticeable.
Thermostat location is very important. It must be in the general circulation, not an inside room with low air flow, and probably in the main living area. Ours is on the wall some feet over from the cool air return, so it senses all the air coming back from 3/4 of the house. (It is actually off the kitchen, and when we run the oven self-clean the heat of oven stalls the furnace- we sit near the fireplace for that.)
TONS of thermal mass is good, but can't be retro-fitted. Our floors are 2" thick, and full 1/2" drywall, which really helps hold a steady temperature. Last night at set-back the house dropped 6 deg F in 3.1 hours, ~2 deg F per hour. In less-bitter weather it was 6F/4hr, but we added attic fuzz and now I don't know how long it takes to drop 6F. (Maybe 8hr when outside is some above freezing.)
Leaks at windows, doors, pipes... nuf said. Look close: we had a big gap outside under the new bathroom window and stuffing that makes a difference in there. (Gap was discovered by an unusual number of spiders in the window space, not by actual draft- use all clues.)