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The Phono Stage

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Joined 2004
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Fuse Question

Fuse question: (dumb question but I'd rather ask & appear foolish than make a mistake)

I bought the following : AC Inlet Integrated Fuse & Switch (Mouser part # 562-762-18/002). If I install an appropriate fuse in the integrated fuse and switch, could I just install a jumper where the fuse goes into the PCB or would installing two fuses (one in PCB and one in switch) provide better protection? Is there a reason the fuse is located in the PCB?

Cheers
Frank M
 
Peter why did you move away from CMC's like in your DAC's?

Considering how fragile signal in phono is pre-preamp I would assume the best quality power possible is best so each step in gain (btw how many are there in the circuit? I use a hagtech right now that does three) brings less noise.

That being said I might consider making a post transformer power conditioner for this unit. What voltage do you get off of the transformer? Two channels? Maybe I will make one to give to someone to try :) . It would of course just sit off to the side.
 
I guess you mean CRC?

Main reason for using of two cap combination in raw PS filtering in a DAC was to achieve specific sonic signature. I didn't have that requirement when voicing phono circuit; the BG STD worked fine on it's own. I also wanted to keep board size to minimum and since no problems with noise where observed I stayed with single caps.

Power supply here is as critical as circuit itself and it's been fully optimized to produce desired results. I'm using 2 x 12V transformers.
 
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Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Coul I use this to burn-in "The Phono Stage"

If using the teflon of CuTF or TFTF V-Caps it seems they would take along time to break-in. Would it be possible to use the Inverse Iriaa ( see link ) or would another method be better? I'm assuming that a CD player with 2 V output on continuos play would be used with the iRIAA filter.

Link is here : Hagerman Technology LLC: iRIAA Filter for Phonostage DIY Kit

Cheers
Frank M
 
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They say it takes long time for those caps to break in, but in my experience the circuit sounds fine right from a start. If you need to break in Teflon caps beforehand, just mount them at the output of CD player or FM tuner (loaded with 20k resistor or so) and play a signal through them for whatever time is required (usually 200 hours).
 
Peter,
I would like to say thanks for the time you've taken to enable the community to enjoy the benefit of your work.

I had a nice tube preamp, tube modded cd player, phono pre and 300b amps, but was forced to sell a year ago because of a downturn in business. I have since recovered, but am still on a tighter budget than before. I have a pretty nice sounding table with the Denon DL-103R cartridge and my 101 db speakers. I've been limping along with a cheap A/V receiver and a basic cd player, but have no phono preamp. This is the first system deficiency I would like to address.

This phono preamp looks like a project I would like to build. I know it's been optimized with the VCaps and other boutique parts, but I'm still on a tight budget and would like to minimize my out of pocket with the least impact on sound quality.

I'm considering 2 options, both of which I could upgrade as funds allowed.

1. Build the unit with power supply using good quality standard grade parts.

2. Build it with the high end boutique parts and go with Sealed Lead Acid battery power.

Peter made a comment about still using caps if you were to go with battery power. What value caps would you use here?

I'm also looking for a pre and amp project to start researching. I've read a little about the Pass B1 Buffer Preamp. Any ideas on a nice DIY Amp I could put together with the B1 and this phono preamp to finish out my system? I'm looking for maximum bang from my minimum bucks.

I like the look of the integrated amp on the Audio Sector website, but it looks like it's only available assembled.

I've never had the opportunity to listen to these chip amps. Do they really sound that good?

James
 
Anyone has experience with a Denon DL-304 working with this?
Output: 0.18mV
Output impedance: 40ohms

From calculations of output current, it has 4.7 times less, so abt 6db less?
How does this translate to the output voltage/current?


The gain is fine as it can play louder than I can listen and it doesn't lack dynamics like when you plug an MC into an MM input. I am also using a B1 and turn it most of the way up. I also use high efficiency speakers and a very low powered amplifier though. I haven't heard the ZYX Fuji, but at $2500 retail you may also consider the Shelter 501, Shelter 5000, a modded Denon 103 (wood body, Zu, etc...), or the wonderful Koetsu Black. Personally I think they are all great carts.

Best,

I sent this to Peter but thought it was worthwhile to post here:

Even with the part substitutions that I made, it spanks the EAR 834p Deluxe my buddy let me borrow which is honestly no slouch. Makes me wonder how much better it would get with the V-Caps...

So you guys know, I'm using Vitamin Q caps, a combination of Riken, Shinkoh, and TX2575 resistors, Silmic II electrolytics, and batteries with a Denon 103R in a wood body. It sounds great!
 
The output impedance is a little high for this circuit. Most low output MC's are quite a bit lower.

When I had a phonocube (47 labs) years ago, I had the low gain version with my .2mV/5 ohm Koetsu. You may need the "high gain" version with the 304. Some resistor values need to change. Check with Peter...