The Objective2 (O2) Headphone Amp DIY Project

Mate, I've been trying to get some shots, but as we know....



I tend to stick little feet on the bottom so that it grips and doesn't slide around and scratch desk surfaces etc.

Like these ones:
3M Bumpon SJ 5012 Stick on Feet, 28pcs/sheet | eBay

I think many of the people in the Aussies GB now have their kits, but are still waiting on the front panels, which were due to ship this week. The GB is getting sorted slowly, but still some issues to resolve... sadly

yeah, only 700 or so owing by BF to the GB now..... dont quote me on that, its a guestimate without latest info
 
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Hi all,

I ran into a small issue (maybe big?) I want to get started tonight after work. I have all the pieces/parts, but realized I have no solder........oops. I do have some radio shack 60/40 size .032. RS said not to use it in the construction notes of the blog. Would it be okay to use it and carefully clean the board afterwards? I don't want to have to wait to order some Kester 44 or the like. It seems mouser is out of the recommended solder as well. Opinions? Thanks everyone. I can't wait to hear this!!! :)

If you are careful and have much experience I don't see it being a big issue, just make sure you don't bridge or short anything.
 
Funny thing is a looked at what I am using as I am finishing and its good ole' RS 60/40 .32. I just wish I hadn't bought these hakko china knockoff iron tips, they fit but they just aren't as good as the OEM. At least I got rid of the china hakko clone, hated that thing.

Great, that makes me feel better. Do you clean the board with alcohol after you are done soldering?
 
Great, that makes me feel better. Do you clean the board with alcohol after you are done soldering?

If you are using resin core solder (and you better be...) then you don't really need to clean up after, unless it's for aesthetics. If you plan on cleaning the board, do it before you install the switches and input/output jacks, as the residue from cleaning may gunk them up and cause issues later..
 
If you are using resin core solder (and you better be...) then you don't really need to clean up after, unless it's for aesthetics. If you plan on cleaning the board, do it before you install the switches and input/output jacks, as the residue from cleaning may gunk them up and cause issues later..

Thanks Mr. Slim. It is definitely Rosin core. Okay, I am going to give it a go. I will post pictures when complete!
 
Funny thing is a looked at what I am using as I am finishing and its good ole' RS 60/40 .32. I just wish I hadn't bought these hakko china knockoff iron tips, they fit but they just aren't as good as the OEM. At least I got rid of the china hakko clone, hated that thing.

I have one of these: circuitspecialist 1A or something. What was the issue with yours?
 
I have one of these: circuitspecialist 1A or something. What was the issue with yours?

It warped to the point to where the tip would barely screw on and be off at an angle. That was a different brand that yours,, it looked identical to a my Hako 936 except the iron was design was completely different inside and the plug to the power supply was different.
 
Finished my O2 (minus faceplate)

Just assembled my O2, and the results are nothing less than spectacular... an awesome holiday present to myself without breaking the bank. Thanks, NwAvGuy!!!
 

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My O2 is built, and is looking and sounding good. However, the batteries I bought don't fit the case; they're a lot squarer than other alkaline batteries I have and foul the inside of the enclosure. Can anyone recommend some suitable batteries that are easily obtainable in the UK. The Vapex Instant ones I tried don't fit.

Thanks.

Justin.
 
I've imported the file into mouser and came up with about $65.95 Canadian total. (3 parts on back order)

Is that about right ?

Your total seems way too high.

My Mouser total was $22.95 US. This did not include the AC adapter (purchased at Allied), rechargable batteries, case, or PC Board. For parts that are on back-order, you can find alternatives listed in the BOM.

/Mason