OK.
1: Take out your O2 PCB from the box. Get rid of the front panel.
2: Take the batteries out.
3: Find something as thick as the slots in the box.
4: Take whatever measure you like to keep the odac connected to the space below the batteries with component side down. I used tape that is adhesive on both sides. The tape is made for rugs/mats I believe.
5: Now this is the tricky part... We need new front and back panels that fits a O2/odac combo where the box itself has been turned upside down and the oda goes into slot 2 and the odac into slot 1 counted from the new bottom. I got rid of the Al structure in the middle of the box not to interfere with the inductor which is othervise in contact with the box.
6: The frontplate - all holes must move 2mm's up.
7: I have done this on my own but I don't have the measurements at hand. Just Put the odac into slot 1 and measure the distance to the usb hole...
I will buy a few If anyone else is interested in a fitting combo and someone wants to get this happening... Otherwise I'll make my own but since the ones for O2 was much better than I'll ever could produce I'll rather see that someone made a GB out of this!
This way you will have it all - O2 and ODAC in a B2 enclosure with batteries
Brgds
BTW: I confess - I took some electricians tape to be sure the regulators won't shortcut to the lower top in the box...
Photos!!!!!!!! We need photos!
I was able to get my ODAC fitted into the case in a similar manner, lots of grinding/filing on the case, I used a thin sheet of acetate(look for blank stencil material at hobby store) glued to the case and double sided tape found at a hobby store. The acetate isolates the usb and inductor from contacting the metal in the case.
I have it wired up, the input jack works but im not getting sound when using the usb input. I belive I need to cut the ground traces on the pcb as indicated in the photos? I just want to be sure before doing so, I don't want to lose any functunality.
Clarification for a supreme dumbarce please.
Turbon, would love to see some pics of yours. I will post some more pics of mine tomorrow.
Thanks
Thanks Ethan. I will get the replacement J1 part and stick with WAU16-400.
Hi, cutting the traces is a must, otherwise your signal from the ODAC goes to ground. I did something unexpected by mistake I plugged my headphones in the input jack of the O2 and... There was music straight from the ODAC....
Making a new front panel, for an upside down O2 with slotted ODAC, didn't take my fancy so I've gone for the ODAC under the O2 PCB with simple electrical tape to keep things in place. I intend to find some firmer method, perhaps using a hot-glue gun (suggestions welcome) to keep it all in place and together.
For the time-being I will simply find a bit of wood to jam against the back of the ODAC to keep it from sliding back when attempting to plug in a USB cable. The whole of the underside of the ODAC board I covered with electrical tape to avoiding shorts against the case.
I purchased some needle files to make the USB connector hole in the backplate (which I haven't done yet) which came in handy to file down the solder on the under side of the ODAC as otherwise it doesn't fit: the joints are too high even when snipped very close to the board. I filed very carefully balancing the file with my thumb and making short, slow movements. It took a surprisingly short time.
Pics included with scratch marks where I scraped the board. I left a little bit of height to the solder, to avoid scratching up the board, but possibly as thin as the electrical tape which you can see in one of the pics. I ended up soldering the last three joints on the top side of the board to make certain there would be enough solder.
For the time-being I will simply find a bit of wood to jam against the back of the ODAC to keep it from sliding back when attempting to plug in a USB cable. The whole of the underside of the ODAC board I covered with electrical tape to avoiding shorts against the case.
I purchased some needle files to make the USB connector hole in the backplate (which I haven't done yet) which came in handy to file down the solder on the under side of the ODAC as otherwise it doesn't fit: the joints are too high even when snipped very close to the board. I filed very carefully balancing the file with my thumb and making short, slow movements. It took a surprisingly short time.
Pics included with scratch marks where I scraped the board. I left a little bit of height to the solder, to avoid scratching up the board, but possibly as thin as the electrical tape which you can see in one of the pics. I ended up soldering the last three joints on the top side of the board to make certain there would be enough solder.
Attachments
Okay, here are some pics of my O2 and ODAC batteries still in tact. I was able to keep mine mounted in the same location in the case and retain the faceplate. I filed off inside bottom of the case where the inductor is to a bout half the original thickness, I hope is does not crack. I also glued a thin sheet of Acetate to the inside bottom of the case to keep the ODAC inductor and USB port from contacting the metal on the inside of the case.
I have been listening to it on My sony laptop with JRiver Media Center 17 using WASAPI-EVENT SYLE through my Shure SRH940 Headphones and it sounds fantastic.
@Turbon, how and what did you use to cut your micro usb slot in the back plate?
Pics will have to wait.....I am unable to upload pics,I have contaced the administrator, getting this error:
"Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing.
If this occurred unexpectedly, please inform the administrator and describe the action you performed before you received this error."
I have been listening to it on My sony laptop with JRiver Media Center 17 using WASAPI-EVENT SYLE through my Shure SRH940 Headphones and it sounds fantastic.
@Turbon, how and what did you use to cut your micro usb slot in the back plate?
Pics will have to wait.....I am unable to upload pics,I have contaced the administrator, getting this error:
"Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing.
If this occurred unexpectedly, please inform the administrator and describe the action you performed before you received this error."
Attachments
I ended up using a piece of stiff, curved cardboard, from an empty cocoa powder container to jam the ODAC, as mentioned in my previous post. I didn't want swelling wood - my initial idea - in damper times to cause issues.
Right now all works but I get quiet cracklings with movement. I haven't insulated the USB jack from the aluminium hole: they are in contact. I suspect this is the cause and may widen it a little and put electrical tape around the jack. I'm concerned to have the jack tightly fitted to reduce strain issues from abuse.
Right now all works but I get quiet cracklings with movement. I haven't insulated the USB jack from the aluminium hole: they are in contact. I suspect this is the cause and may widen it a little and put electrical tape around the jack. I'm concerned to have the jack tightly fitted to reduce strain issues from abuse.
I've also completed on this, after drilling a 3.5 mm hole, with needle files. Seems to be the way to go.
Widening the USB port hole in the back-plate to stop contact with the USB jack seems to have solved my crackling issues. I didn't use electrical tape to have a tight fit, in the end, as the jack is wedged tightly between the O2's PCB and the ODAC's PCB. There's still left and right sides to think about to avoid lateral stresses.
Looks like my soldering is alright then, Jtktam.
Ps, haven't forgotten about those chocs; just haven't been in touch with my godmother recently.
Looks like my soldering is alright then, Jtktam.
Ps, haven't forgotten about those chocs; just haven't been in touch with my godmother recently.
I still have some hissing noice at some frequencies. Dire Straits "Telegraph Road" has a synth playing in the beginning of the song and that seems to be the right kind of sound to produce the hiss. I don't have this issue with other usb dacs or with other gizmos... I haven't scrutinezed the combo further but I will when time given.
Obvious is to recheck for contact between the case and USB.
Brgds
Obvious is to recheck for contact between the case and USB.
Brgds
I have not noticed any hissing noise at all, however, I do not have the back plate on yet. Is the hiss low level? Could it be on the recording or elsewhere in your chain? I will listen with my Ultimate Ears triple-fi 10 earbuds tonight(very high efficiency) and see if I can hear anything.
OK, I can't get rid of the hissing. The O2 works flawlessly with another USB DAC.
Rechecked all solderings but I can't tell if they're failing... My testing has been conducted without box, all tape removed, the ODAC hanging in thinn air with only headphones connected to the O2 and the USB cable as input... Still the same hiss...
Now what? Should I beg for a replacement?
Brgds
Rechecked all solderings but I can't tell if they're failing... My testing has been conducted without box, all tape removed, the ODAC hanging in thinn air with only headphones connected to the O2 and the USB cable as input... Still the same hiss...
Now what? Should I beg for a replacement?
Brgds
No need to beg
ok, but seriously, have you tried a different USB cable, I had two faulty ones already... another thing to test would be if the hiss disappears with the 3.5mm connector, if both fails I send you a new one, but need the little hisser in return Stefan