I never expect to get flamed again........ 
THE component list
Feel free to edit it. It could probably benefit from being put into alphabetical order. If we get enough submissions for jacks, wire, sockets, screws... whatever... expand the 'other stuff' catagory.
When you edit it, inset a line in the revision list, increment the version number, add the date and name.
If only some components out of a large series are magnetic, they've gone in the non-magnetic list (i.e. Black gates). If it's the other way round, only some are non-magnetic and most are magnetic, to the magnetic they have been cast. Both with an affixed note to such effect.
THE component list
Feel free to edit it. It could probably benefit from being put into alphabetical order. If we get enough submissions for jacks, wire, sockets, screws... whatever... expand the 'other stuff' catagory.
When you edit it, inset a line in the revision list, increment the version number, add the date and name.
If only some components out of a large series are magnetic, they've gone in the non-magnetic list (i.e. Black gates). If it's the other way round, only some are non-magnetic and most are magnetic, to the magnetic they have been cast. Both with an affixed note to such effect.
Then there is the non-magnetic mounting hardware.
Anyone know of a place that stocks and sells single boxes at a time of of copper screws, nuts and washers, ie, transistor mounting hardware and chassis screws? If you do it right..you can use the same transistor mounting screws for chassis crews.
Anyone know of a place that stocks and sells single boxes at a time of of copper screws, nuts and washers, ie, transistor mounting hardware and chassis screws? If you do it right..you can use the same transistor mounting screws for chassis crews.
You can buy plastic bolts, nuts and washers from the bigger electronics people, like Farnell and RS.
For the chassis, you can get titanium bolts in single unit quantities. They're usually quite expensive obviously. Get Grade 2 (Pure Ti) if you have the choice, you don't need Grade 5 (6al4v) or anything that ends in Eli - they're the super expensive alloys and entire unnecessary unless you know what really know what you're doing with metal at a molecular level (and making something other than a Hi-Fi chassis).
Or, use brass woodscrews/bolts or threaded rod.
For the chassis, you can get titanium bolts in single unit quantities. They're usually quite expensive obviously. Get Grade 2 (Pure Ti) if you have the choice, you don't need Grade 5 (6al4v) or anything that ends in Eli - they're the super expensive alloys and entire unnecessary unless you know what really know what you're doing with metal at a molecular level (and making something other than a Hi-Fi chassis).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Or, use brass woodscrews/bolts or threaded rod.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is what I found about the non magnetic fasteners:
http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com/metal_specs.php?PHPSESSID=94e4b7b7b70fad6a78eefeeb9b8a3520
http://www.ccfasteners.com/metalalloy.html
http://www.e-nedzi.com/index_en.html
http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com/metal_specs.php?PHPSESSID=94e4b7b7b70fad6a78eefeeb9b8a3520
http://www.ccfasteners.com/metalalloy.html
http://www.e-nedzi.com/index_en.html
Attachments
KBK said:I'm looking for Copper, as it is circuit board mounted t-03 case Hitachi MOS-FET j50/k135 transistors..and the current flow through the amplifier is via the mounting screws.
Thus, I'm listening to brass. I'd prefer to listen to copper.
I've not been able to find much. I'd buy a tap and die set.
Most Cardas connectors are non-magnetic.
http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=oem&pagestring=Female+RCAs&content_id=6
http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=oem&content_id=4&pagestring=Male+RCAs
http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=oem&pagestring=Female+RCAs&content_id=6
http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=oem&content_id=4&pagestring=Male+RCAs
silly me. I made an assumption. I 'thought' that the Cardas RCA's where always made of copper. Now I see that they are brass. Non magnetic, yes. But brass.
No wonder I always pulled them out of every piece of gear I've ever owned that had them.
My current favorites are the DH Labs, when it comes to budget (female RCA) designs. Excellent sounding. The only one I'm aware of that has less of a sonic signature..is the WBT nextgen female RCA.
For Male RCA, I find the Eichmann RCA's to have the least sonic signature, with the WBT nextgen male RCA's being second. The ones considered are the copper designs of each.
No wonder I always pulled them out of every piece of gear I've ever owned that had them.
My current favorites are the DH Labs, when it comes to budget (female RCA) designs. Excellent sounding. The only one I'm aware of that has less of a sonic signature..is the WBT nextgen female RCA.
For Male RCA, I find the Eichmann RCA's to have the least sonic signature, with the WBT nextgen male RCA's being second. The ones considered are the copper designs of each.
The DH Labs and Vampire Wire Chassis RCA's are sonically identical, for the most part, superseded by only the WBT Nextgen RCA's.
I'm posting as the Panasonic FM series caps are sadly..QUITE magnetic. I have shaved and cut the leads on a few and inspected under the microscope.
The leads are 'copperweld' types. Garbage!!!!! This is steel core, with copper plating and then Tinned overtop. Dammit! Panasonic sure knows how to ruin a good cap. It might be a nickel/steel core but the result is the same: Steely sound.
I'm posting as the Panasonic FM series caps are sadly..QUITE magnetic. I have shaved and cut the leads on a few and inspected under the microscope.
The leads are 'copperweld' types. Garbage!!!!! This is steel core, with copper plating and then Tinned overtop. Dammit! Panasonic sure knows how to ruin a good cap. It might be a nickel/steel core but the result is the same: Steely sound.
As for the Panasonic FM caps..and the way they are held to high esteem on the forum in general: this point shows me that most folks (this is the norm, everything and every endeavor has a psychological bell curve associated with it-meaning 'groupings' of the persons who populate the group) are not aware of the complexities involved in making a great sounding piece of gear and what they ARE producing is incapable of showing them the path to the better sonic qualities that can be produced. All they make is tied to this 'lowered expectation' of what their equipment MIGHT sonically show them-and allow them to finally understand. To 'see the light' as it where. To see past the mud and really come to an understanding of how good equipment might be, one has to do things like make an attempt to use all non-magnetic components in any way possible and then listen to that gear for while.
One then comes to the conclusion that audio gear, both recording and playback have a serious flaw that obscures REAL fine detail due to the creation of 'exaggerated false detail'. Therefore, the entire system of music creation and playback is flawed and thus the average DIY'er will not understand this point.
This is quite common in 'high end' audio,I will illustrate: One highly touted balance phono pre I recently came into possession of retailed for $4k US.
-Brass input connectors.
-Brass output connectors.
-$0.70 opamps!!! Gawd-damn those a-holes! eight of them, as this was a 'balanced' design.
PS buffer caps- all MYLAR. Damn! what garbage!
-A circuit board so cheap, with traces so thin...it can't handle ONE removal of a single component ---without failing.
-Solid aluminum chassis, all extremely close to the circuitry. This was the major expense in the design. Makes it seem good to folks who judge by 'weight'.
-designers are pro-idiots. Ie, came from the pro audio world. Brains of a flea, when it comes to high end audio. (just them, not all pro-audio guys, but it can be common in the pro crowd)
But they knew how to create a shiny bauble, and the high end reviewers and crowd alike swallowed it hook, line, and sinker.
Sounds like someone banging a way on a cheap tin pot, while attached to 'snot on a stick'. Just bloody awful.
They are still producing this total crap today, and still getting away with it. I will refrain from mentioning names, as I'm in the business.
It's even attempting to fight it's way onto my table. A distributor is demanding a cosmetic change in something that will bring a very noticeable level of bad sonics to a given item if the desired changes are made at the same time as the item ends up costing the customer 40% MORE. Yet, due to the visual appeal, we will end up selling 2-5 times more,due to the ignorance of people.
To illustrate, someone who does their best with all these things is Dennis Morecroft at DNM, and look how famous he has become...compared to the other brands --who produce sonic crap with fancy boxes.
One then comes to the conclusion that audio gear, both recording and playback have a serious flaw that obscures REAL fine detail due to the creation of 'exaggerated false detail'. Therefore, the entire system of music creation and playback is flawed and thus the average DIY'er will not understand this point.
This is quite common in 'high end' audio,I will illustrate: One highly touted balance phono pre I recently came into possession of retailed for $4k US.
-Brass input connectors.
-Brass output connectors.
-$0.70 opamps!!! Gawd-damn those a-holes! eight of them, as this was a 'balanced' design.
PS buffer caps- all MYLAR. Damn! what garbage!
-A circuit board so cheap, with traces so thin...it can't handle ONE removal of a single component ---without failing.
-Solid aluminum chassis, all extremely close to the circuitry. This was the major expense in the design. Makes it seem good to folks who judge by 'weight'.
-designers are pro-idiots. Ie, came from the pro audio world. Brains of a flea, when it comes to high end audio. (just them, not all pro-audio guys, but it can be common in the pro crowd)
But they knew how to create a shiny bauble, and the high end reviewers and crowd alike swallowed it hook, line, and sinker.
Sounds like someone banging a way on a cheap tin pot, while attached to 'snot on a stick'. Just bloody awful.
They are still producing this total crap today, and still getting away with it. I will refrain from mentioning names, as I'm in the business.
It's even attempting to fight it's way onto my table. A distributor is demanding a cosmetic change in something that will bring a very noticeable level of bad sonics to a given item if the desired changes are made at the same time as the item ends up costing the customer 40% MORE. Yet, due to the visual appeal, we will end up selling 2-5 times more,due to the ignorance of people.
To illustrate, someone who does their best with all these things is Dennis Morecroft at DNM, and look how famous he has become...compared to the other brands --who produce sonic crap with fancy boxes.
The Nippon Chemicon PSA series CONDUCTIVE POLYMER ALUMINUM SOLID CAPACITORS (their version of an OS-CON) are non-magnetic
NCC PSA datsheet very limited selection of values/voltages though. the rest in the range may be the same?
Panasonic Pureism are also non-magnetic and seem to be available from Newark/Farnell
Regards
James
NCC PSA datsheet very limited selection of values/voltages though. the rest in the range may be the same?
Panasonic Pureism are also non-magnetic and seem to be available from Newark/Farnell
Regards
James
From my parts bin:
Nichicon Muse KW (NOS) Electrolythic NON-Magnetic
Rubycon ZL/ZLH Electrolythic Magnetic
Nippon Chemi-Con KY Electrolythic Magnetic
nippon Chemi-Con SMG Electrolythic Magnetic
Elna Silmic (ROS) Electrolythic NON-Magnetic
Elna Silmic II (RFS) ROHS Electrolythic NON-Magnetic
Elna Starget Electrolythic NON-Magnetic
Panasonic FC/FM Electrolythic Magnetic
Sanyo OSCON SC Electrolythic Magnetic
Evox-Rifa MMK5 Polyester Magnetic
Evox-Rifa MMK22.5 Polyester NON-Magnetic
Evox-Rifa PHE426 Polypropilene NON-Magnetic
Arcotronics R41 Y2 Polypropilene NON-Magnetic
Vishay MKP 339 Y2 Polypropilene Magnetic
Wima FKP02 NON-Magnetic
Wima FKP2 5% NON-Magnetic (but a single one on several fkp2 was magnetic)
Wima FKP2 10% Magnetic
Vishay MKP1837 NON-Magnetic
AVX Sky-Cap Ceramic Magnetic
Epcos B37979 Ceramic Magnetic
Tyco/Neohm LR1F Metal film Res. Magnetic
Vishay PR02 Magnetic
Takman REY Carbon film Res. NON-Magnetic
Holco H4 (NOS) Metal film res. NON-Magnetic
On-Semiconductor MUR860G Diode NON-Magnetic
NS LM4562NA Op-Amp NON-Magnetic
BB OPA2132PA Op-Amp NON-Magnetic
JRC NJM2068 Op-Amp NON-Magnetic
JRC NJM5532 OP-Amp NON-Magnetic
Nichicon Muse KW (NOS) Electrolythic NON-Magnetic
Rubycon ZL/ZLH Electrolythic Magnetic
Nippon Chemi-Con KY Electrolythic Magnetic
nippon Chemi-Con SMG Electrolythic Magnetic
Elna Silmic (ROS) Electrolythic NON-Magnetic
Elna Silmic II (RFS) ROHS Electrolythic NON-Magnetic
Elna Starget Electrolythic NON-Magnetic
Panasonic FC/FM Electrolythic Magnetic
Sanyo OSCON SC Electrolythic Magnetic
Evox-Rifa MMK5 Polyester Magnetic
Evox-Rifa MMK22.5 Polyester NON-Magnetic
Evox-Rifa PHE426 Polypropilene NON-Magnetic
Arcotronics R41 Y2 Polypropilene NON-Magnetic
Vishay MKP 339 Y2 Polypropilene Magnetic
Wima FKP02 NON-Magnetic
Wima FKP2 5% NON-Magnetic (but a single one on several fkp2 was magnetic)
Wima FKP2 10% Magnetic
Vishay MKP1837 NON-Magnetic
AVX Sky-Cap Ceramic Magnetic
Epcos B37979 Ceramic Magnetic
Tyco/Neohm LR1F Metal film Res. Magnetic
Vishay PR02 Magnetic
Takman REY Carbon film Res. NON-Magnetic
Holco H4 (NOS) Metal film res. NON-Magnetic
On-Semiconductor MUR860G Diode NON-Magnetic
NS LM4562NA Op-Amp NON-Magnetic
BB OPA2132PA Op-Amp NON-Magnetic
JRC NJM2068 Op-Amp NON-Magnetic
JRC NJM5532 OP-Amp NON-Magnetic