The most interesting part of the story is that they really pretend to know whether any component contains traces of ferromagnetic substances or not just with the help of a strong magnet and their hands.
In most cases, the force won't be strong enough to be noticed that way. Also, different individuals are likely to have different perception thresholds on their hands, and even the same individual.
This proves what's behind all the exotic-parts business. You will pay a fortune for OFC and you will be very happy with the placebo sonic effect benefits until you stumble at a magnet in a boring day...
In most cases, the force won't be strong enough to be noticed that way. Also, different individuals are likely to have different perception thresholds on their hands, and even the same individual.
This proves what's behind all the exotic-parts business. You will pay a fortune for OFC and you will be very happy with the placebo sonic effect benefits until you stumble at a magnet in a boring day...
Eva said:
I see that the 'experts' have arrived to put right the error of the ways of those who take this subject seriously.
Daft sweeping comments like the above just go to prove how seriously some posters consider it to be their duty to put the rest of the world to rights, but this thread is not even about "exotic-parts"!
For those finding it hard to comprehend, KBK started a thread about "non-magnetic" parts so why spoil this with irrelevant and provocative remarks like this?
Oh well, the thread is doomed as I suspected.
Regards,
Although all other Black Gates are non-magnetic as shown above, those (very few) using the 'snap-in' fixings are 'partially' magnetic.
I just checked an 'N' series 1000uF 50V, and (only) the solder tags are slightly attracted to a magnet. I guess that the additional strength needed for these snap-in fixings requires the addition of some steel or whatever to the alloy out of which these tags are made from.
Regards,
I just checked an 'N' series 1000uF 50V, and (only) the solder tags are slightly attracted to a magnet. I guess that the additional strength needed for these snap-in fixings requires the addition of some steel or whatever to the alloy out of which these tags are made from.
Regards,
analog_sa said:
I'm searching my mind for something positive to say about your contributions, or to attempt to tell you where to get off, in a way that is not deemed 'inappropriate'.
Stop polluting the thread with useless arguments. We know the situation already.
We are merely attempting to create a thread with as many references to non-magnetic components as is possible.
Plase do not drag the thread down.
mmmmk?
Please and thank you.
In a little bit, I will ask a moderator to pull and erase all posts that have no reference to non-magnetic or magnetic components (ones you would not expect to be magnetic, like the mentioned Caddock resistors). We are merely attempting to create a list that separates the wheat from the chaff.
This post too, will be erased. Thankfully.
Russian Teflon K-72-6 series NOS capacitors. The entire metal boy of them, including endcaps and posts, are magnetic.
Same for the Green Russian K42 Paper-in-oil caps. The body and the endcaps on those (magnetic). The leads on these are entirely non-magnetic. This slight variation may account for some of the preference some folks show for these capacitors, over some of the other Russian NOS caps. This is the sort of thing that the list will eventually bear out as the facts of what is what.....take shape.
Sprague Vitamin Q caps! Magnetic endcaps, including the leads! Also, the other Sprague metal encapsulated, er, capacitors-the same.
Dug up some of the Solen Speaker terminal brass binding posts. The longer ones. model # EGBT008, slightly magnetic, likely due to the nickel layer, as mentioned earlier, as an undercoat for gold plating.
Same for the Green Russian K42 Paper-in-oil caps. The body and the endcaps on those (magnetic). The leads on these are entirely non-magnetic. This slight variation may account for some of the preference some folks show for these capacitors, over some of the other Russian NOS caps. This is the sort of thing that the list will eventually bear out as the facts of what is what.....take shape.
Sprague Vitamin Q caps! Magnetic endcaps, including the leads! Also, the other Sprague metal encapsulated, er, capacitors-the same.
Dug up some of the Solen Speaker terminal brass binding posts. The longer ones. model # EGBT008, slightly magnetic, likely due to the nickel layer, as mentioned earlier, as an undercoat for gold plating.
There are things that MUST be of a nature where they have magnetic properties. Yes. But if one puts in the effort to work with items that have no magnetic properties elsewhere in a given device..then the effort will show itself to have been worth it.
Otherwise, it's like trying to hear one little voice in the middle of a battle field. If one has never heard the difference via putting in the effort, one ends up not understanding how critical it is.
If you do it..and hear the difference, you will find yourself swearing off metal bodied volume pots...metal enclosures....steel bolts and hardware..everything. Everything non-magnetic and spaced well away from active circuits..will very likely end up being your mantra, after that. Hell..leaving your combined ground runs near metal is ALSO foolish (nevermind any signal wire or PS wire) ... for it DOES carry return current--- this it is the ENTIRE signal pathway itself...!!! get it? Every little bit counts, once you get beyond the circuit itself actually functioning.
for example..all my pulled Sprague and vitamin q caps I've kept for years? Out the door they go, now. Crap-get rid of it.
When it comes to building great audio gear, this is the sort of work that shows itself to be above the rest in sonic qualities. Fanatical attention to detail.
For example, Dave Reich, the earlier designer at Classe, would even weigh or measure the exact size/mass of each individual solder joint.
It all adds up. That's where the spectacular sounding gear comes from. From the folks who put in the effort.
You MUST get rid of the 100 tiny flaws...to understand that they all combine together to form one big flaw.
Otherwise, it's like trying to hear one little voice in the middle of a battle field. If one has never heard the difference via putting in the effort, one ends up not understanding how critical it is.
If you do it..and hear the difference, you will find yourself swearing off metal bodied volume pots...metal enclosures....steel bolts and hardware..everything. Everything non-magnetic and spaced well away from active circuits..will very likely end up being your mantra, after that. Hell..leaving your combined ground runs near metal is ALSO foolish (nevermind any signal wire or PS wire) ... for it DOES carry return current--- this it is the ENTIRE signal pathway itself...!!! get it? Every little bit counts, once you get beyond the circuit itself actually functioning.
for example..all my pulled Sprague and vitamin q caps I've kept for years? Out the door they go, now. Crap-get rid of it.
When it comes to building great audio gear, this is the sort of work that shows itself to be above the rest in sonic qualities. Fanatical attention to detail.
For example, Dave Reich, the earlier designer at Classe, would even weigh or measure the exact size/mass of each individual solder joint.
It all adds up. That's where the spectacular sounding gear comes from. From the folks who put in the effort.
You MUST get rid of the 100 tiny flaws...to understand that they all combine together to form one big flaw.
If you 'nude' the Russian teflons, the inner bits are all non-magnetic. All magnetic components are in the casing and end posts. Do a search for 'teflon' 'russian' and 'KBK' and the thread where I show a bunch done that way..are in that thread.
The older Rel-cap RT (yellow, wire ends, wound-90's time period) series teflon caps are non-magnetic.
The older Rel-cap RT (yellow, wire ends, wound-90's time period) series teflon caps are non-magnetic.
