Thanks Uriah,
As I wrote you, my difficulties were due to a bit of carelessness on my part and had nothing to do with PCB defects. But as they say, sometimes the journey is more rewarding and informative than the destination.
later.........
As I wrote you, my difficulties were due to a bit of carelessness on my part and had nothing to do with PCB defects. But as they say, sometimes the journey is more rewarding and informative than the destination.
later.........
clave, did you find that there was a burn in period for mlytics? i received mine today and don't find them to be much of an improvement from the pannys as i thought the price tag was promising...
however, 220uf blackgates are excellent 🙂 as i also find them to be superior to silmic+fkp2. i went all out and replaced all the 220uf caps on the board with BGs from partsconnexion and from that the sound has become tiny bit brighter, but i hope to hear it settle in after a while.
so was there a burn in time for blackgates and mlytics for you, gents? 🙂
however, 220uf blackgates are excellent 🙂 as i also find them to be superior to silmic+fkp2. i went all out and replaced all the 220uf caps on the board with BGs from partsconnexion and from that the sound has become tiny bit brighter, but i hope to hear it settle in after a while.
so was there a burn in time for blackgates and mlytics for you, gents? 🙂
I've soldered mines saturday... and I can say for sure that initially the difference seems small, in an absolute meaning.
But there a lot of small differences that, to my taste, are a must.
The timbre is more balanced, voices are a bit more full and real, high frequencies a bit more refined and bass gains weight and roundness but it's still tight.
The last 3% to 5%, probably... but to my ears seems MUCH better.
Yes they are, for C9, I didn't tried them in C1, C2, I'm reserving them for my new PCB.
Absolutely!
The myth is that BGs change everyday for ther first 500 hrs when there's a dramatic change (I didn't noticed it... but I could be wrong) 😀
Also the MLythics change with use, IMHO, after the first 100 Hrs you can have a precise idea on how they sound.
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thanks clave, for your always valuable info.
BG is the one snake oil that actually works. hehe
speaking of timbre, i had a bit of a shocking experience yesterday, when i hooked up my luxman mq70 6l6 amp that hadn't been fired up for two months... the timbre was wholly more realistic than myrefc! 🙁 of course, my system, my situation, ect., but that tube warmth and magic was undeniably missing from myrefc where as mq70 was sounding mid-fi in every other category in comparison.
so my revelation was that though myref is certainly a giant killer, it's no tube killer...
or perhaps i still have further tweaking to do? there remains on my board still 2 ceramic caps and 2 cheap-o metal film resistors in c34,10 and r15,16- which to my understanding are not critical positions for sonics.
oh but the happy ending to my silly rant is that i stopped by an audioshop today, to demo marantz pm11s2 that i had my mind set for before venturing on the myref journey. though it was a nice sounding unit, i couldn't help but grin at myself... myref was way nicer. 😀 😀
BG is the one snake oil that actually works. hehe
speaking of timbre, i had a bit of a shocking experience yesterday, when i hooked up my luxman mq70 6l6 amp that hadn't been fired up for two months... the timbre was wholly more realistic than myrefc! 🙁 of course, my system, my situation, ect., but that tube warmth and magic was undeniably missing from myrefc where as mq70 was sounding mid-fi in every other category in comparison.
so my revelation was that though myref is certainly a giant killer, it's no tube killer...
or perhaps i still have further tweaking to do? there remains on my board still 2 ceramic caps and 2 cheap-o metal film resistors in c34,10 and r15,16- which to my understanding are not critical positions for sonics.
oh but the happy ending to my silly rant is that i stopped by an audioshop today, to demo marantz pm11s2 that i had my mind set for before venturing on the myref journey. though it was a nice sounding unit, i couldn't help but grin at myself... myref was way nicer. 😀 😀
You're welcome 🙂
Sadly, yes. and they're out of production...
I don't know, I've never listened to a tube amp.
I'm not so sure...
C34 and C10 have a great influence in sound.
Use Silver Micas (CDE or Soshin, don't buy other brands, some sounds hawful)
C10 maybe can be sourced from eBay as FKP2 (which is better).
The MyRef is sensible to the power cable, which type are you using?
🙂
I believe linuxguru is developing a LM318 daughter board that specifically addresses the warmth issue. PM him for information or maybe he will post here on his progress soon.
i already sent him the payment for a pair but i don't remember reading anywhere that it makes the sound warmer. would certainly make the waiting harder if it does! 😀
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"specifically addresses" Is an overstatement on my part. Siva mentioned "warmth improvement" as a result of the ability to swap components - but I'll let him address the issue in his own words. Hopefully that will be a welcomed additional result of his design.
great, bob. that certainly rekindles my interest in them 🙂
the input cap for me now is the final piece of the puzzle. i wanna aim for 2.2uf as per maruo's own recommendation, because here's a little hush-hush that's a real prospect-
GE dielektrol motor run caps 🙂
i have most of the critical values on my crossovers designated to them for they were better than any other caps that i tried, including clarity dtac, which i understand to be up there with mundorfs . 2uf cap is going for little under $20 at digikey right now. 0.2uf shy of what i want to aim for but i honest think there's no better deal than this. don't let the flimsy tin laminated terminations fool you- the clarity, extension and liquidity on these caps are heard to be believed.
the input cap for me now is the final piece of the puzzle. i wanna aim for 2.2uf as per maruo's own recommendation, because here's a little hush-hush that's a real prospect-
GE dielektrol motor run caps 🙂
i have most of the critical values on my crossovers designated to them for they were better than any other caps that i tried, including clarity dtac, which i understand to be up there with mundorfs . 2uf cap is going for little under $20 at digikey right now. 0.2uf shy of what i want to aim for but i honest think there's no better deal than this. don't let the flimsy tin laminated terminations fool you- the clarity, extension and liquidity on these caps are heard to be believed.
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Mauro recommends a 1uF cap, a 2.2uf is a possibility but it alters too much, IMHO, the recommended value.
More about it here.
Recently, my RevC has developed a buzzing sound during power down that last for about a second. Nothing has changed in my setup so far. It's doesn't sound like it will damage the speakers, but it hadn't happened before. It sounds fabulous otherwise.
Anyone has any idea what caused it (where I should start looking) and how I can solve it?
p.s. posted on the other thread but no replies so far, so I thiought I should post here too.
Anyone has any idea what caused it (where I should start looking) and how I can solve it?
p.s. posted on the other thread but no replies so far, so I thiought I should post here too.
@bcmbob: Yes, noise in both channels. stereo rig.
@AndrewT: Sorry, not sure what you mean?
I tried to do some consecutive turn on turn offs, and the power down sound became like a pop, sometimes louder, sometimes softer. Is the output relay problem?
@AndrewT: Sorry, not sure what you mean?
I tried to do some consecutive turn on turn offs, and the power down sound became like a pop, sometimes louder, sometimes softer. Is the output relay problem?
Can you disconnect the speakers and listen for the relays clicking on and off? What are you feeding the MyRefs with?
The relays seem to be clicking on and off fine...
Feeding with a B1 buffer, which is on before the My Ref is switched on and after it is powered down.
THanks!
Feeding with a B1 buffer, which is on before the My Ref is switched on and after it is powered down.
THanks!
Power down. Measure the resistance between the Spkr Return and the Main Audio Ground.
It should not be near zero ohms. Zero ohms, or close to, would indicate a welded relay contact.
I have recently completed a MyRefC, but have a few problems. The first and biggest is that I have a terrible hum comming from the speakers.
When I measured the output to my speakers it read 0.61VDC on one side and -0.58VDC on the other so I have a reversed polarity on one board. Also When I turn of the amplifier I get a turn of hiss from the relay, isn't the relay supposed to prevent this?
Any help with my problems is much apriciated.
When I measured the output to my speakers it read 0.61VDC on one side and -0.58VDC on the other so I have a reversed polarity on one board. Also When I turn of the amplifier I get a turn of hiss from the relay, isn't the relay supposed to prevent this?
Any help with my problems is much apriciated.