Okay, after discussing the tweeter channel whistling with the Hypex customer service, I decided to replace the caps on the NC100HFs because the support suggested that some of the electrolytic caps might have gone bad after the 6 years of use.
I choosed 7.000 - 10.000 hour Rubycons (the originals are 2.000 hour Su'scons), this somewhat changed the whistling but it remained audible.
After that I decied to replace the single MKT cap of the amp's low-pass filter and wow, all the whistles are gone, the amp is total silent, not a single hiss from it.
I choosed Wima MKP2 (similar to the higher tier Hypex and Purifi amps) 0,68 uF, 100 V (values as the original). This cap fits to the board but it needed to replace the Phillips head screw near the cap to a cylindrical head Allen bolt.
The amps now sounds better than ever, IMO.
I choosed 7.000 - 10.000 hour Rubycons (the originals are 2.000 hour Su'scons), this somewhat changed the whistling but it remained audible.
After that I decied to replace the single MKT cap of the amp's low-pass filter and wow, all the whistles are gone, the amp is total silent, not a single hiss from it.
I choosed Wima MKP2 (similar to the higher tier Hypex and Purifi amps) 0,68 uF, 100 V (values as the original). This cap fits to the board but it needed to replace the Phillips head screw near the cap to a cylindrical head Allen bolt.
The amps now sounds better than ever, IMO.
Last edited:
Oh - that's interesting news! I use these amps for near field speakers and there is always a "tonal" component to the remaining noise (which you hear on a midrange dome cause of high sensitivity). Does it help against these or was there a definitive error with your board?
Yes, there was a squeaky, whistling noise over the basic "shhh" noise. It was not loud but audible. Now with the new caps, there is just a quiet "shhh" but nothing more and even this basic "shhh" is quieter than before.
BTW the other channels of the FA is more tricky to change caps because there is even tighter space for the two film caps. These both are 1 uF, two pieces per channel. The Wima MKS2 fits there but this is a polyester cap, although a new polyester probably better than an old if you have audible squeaking.
I ordered a 1 uF MKS2 and an 1 uF MKP2, these caps are in parallel, so one of them will be a better type MKP and these fits to the board, although it needed to remove/crack the unused plastic leg of one of the filter inductor.
Will see how it works.
Edit:
TEAC also using different caps (a default blue as the original and a larger black) here in its ncore based amps:
Last edited:
Does anyone knows it would have any benefits of enlarging these 8 capacitors (capacitance and/or Voltage) that is marked on the pic? Or it would be detrimental to the performance or totally unnecessary?
Space allows larger caps.
Space allows larger caps.
Of course never tried - probably ask them about it?
These Amps don't have a problem with short time currents at all - they are thermal limited long therm. So increasing will probably have not a significant effect? Could harm the power supply section if you go crazy, thats for sure.
Maybe using caps with lower ESR to dampen parasitic frequencies better?
@Frank207be This are really TINY effects we are talking about here. As long as you don't use a 95dBSpl sensitivity driver in 1m distance or just have a normal noise level listening room there is nothing to worry about. But I do exactly that in a super silent room ...
The weakest point of these modules is the D/A converter - it dominates the noise. So changing to NCOREx is nice but I don't expect big changes.
The weakest point of these modules is the D/A converter - it dominates the noise. So changing to NCOREx is nice but I don't expect big changes.
@IamJF I'm in the market for a high quality and very reliable active 3-way amplifier for 96dB SPL LCR and surround speakers but I'm a bit worried about the longevity of these modules and it seems that the NC100HF also is becoming a weak link. I'd gladly pay extra for better components if this means a much longer trouble free operation 😉
Not necessarily. As you can see, @IamJF 's mid channel that is noisy, probably due to a low-pass filter capacitor problem, similar to what I had with my tweeter channel. The amplifier modules are good, but the capacitors are the weak link IMO (Hypex skimped on them), but the caps are relatively easy to replace.
Last edited:
Do you know an alternative? It's still the best quality option.
I once had one module die on me, a FA502 used to power 6 subs (about 2x 2R) and in a cramped space so it gets warm. It still should switch off instead of die but I have modules out in the field for many years with lot's of operating hours and no issue with these.
I use FA253 for my home cinema speakers (8"/1" with DE360) and in 3-4m distance there is no hiss or other signal I can hear.
They have a quirky software and are not perfect but still the best I know.
While the remaining capacitors are arriving, I've been looking into the options of replacing the low-pass filter of the bass and mid-range amplifier with full MKP capacitors (instead of one MKP and one MKT as I described earlier). There is one option I find that probably can be fitted, a new model from TDK/Epcos, 2.2 uF (instead of 2x1 uF), 15 mm lead spacing and 8.5 mm wide B32702P4225+.
Unfortunately, it's not yet available anywhere as far as I can see.
Unfortunately, it's not yet available anywhere as far as I can see.
Or maybe it's not the best idea to use one capacitor instead of two? What could be the consequences?
I need to make up my mind one day.
My actual living room home theatre with an AVR and 5 power amps for 4 subs + Focal Scala Utopia main speakers already sounds mighty impressive but the step towards in-wall demands a deep dive into active speaker design and brings added complexity, hence my worries about the Hypex. Now the 4x Crown XLS2502 stay on 24/7 and the 1200AS2 switches on with the 12V trigger from the Denon.
The only real in-wall alternative is choosing passive high-end in-walls but they cost an arm and a leg.
Hello,
I have a FA122 module and want to add another channel so that I can use it as a 3 way module.
Is ist possible to somehow use the FC connecter with the third channel out. According to the user manual of the digital board DSP3-213 it can be used.
https://www.hypex.nl/media/bb/ef/35/1695842226/Datasheet-R06 DSP3-213-04xx.pdf
Can I somehow change the dsp to function as a FA123 amp, so I can use the DSP?
Best
Thomas
I have a FA122 module and want to add another channel so that I can use it as a 3 way module.
Is ist possible to somehow use the FC connecter with the third channel out. According to the user manual of the digital board DSP3-213 it can be used.
https://www.hypex.nl/media/bb/ef/35/1695842226/Datasheet-R06 DSP3-213-04xx.pdf
Can I somehow change the dsp to function as a FA123 amp, so I can use the DSP?
Best
Thomas
As a rule of thumb when replacing capacitors is that the capacitance has to be exactly the same and voltage rating has to be the same or higher. Changing capacitance may affect the designed behavior of the device. If you decide to change the values, it's on your own risk. For any questions, contacting the manufacturer should be primary source of reliable information.
With the separat bought DSP board you can do so and define if it's 2 or 3 channels. The "ready bought" plate amps are locked in to their amp configuration - as far as I know you would need to reprogram them, not sure if this is possible. You need to ask Hypex about it.
You can set the Hypex to wake up on an input signal - but this takes a while, didn't like the behaviour. I bought a power socket which is activated per trigger signal from the preamp and switches the plate amps on and off hard. Works so long without issues.
For a high channel count you could think about building your own amps in 19". Way easier to organise - but not cheaper and plenty of work.
But a proper in wall setup, active speakers and going hand in hand with the right room acoustics ... it's more as impressive what you can do with that. From invisible to "be there in the middle of the scene" with the press of a button.
Write me a message if you want to chat about your system, I have done similar installations and built a few fitting speakers in the last years.