Just make the width wide enough to fit the driver - the length is fine. Buildmesomething is in UK and he just ordered some Vifa's. So you can get them.
Yep, got my Vifa TC9FD's from Strassacker, they're listed as Vifa 9BN119/8... had a few weeks wait as they're ordered in from the factory before shipping.
Just placed an order for a 10 pack of A3 foam-core sheets from Amazon. Plus from Blue Aran, two Faital Pro 4FE32 4" 8 Ohm drivers 😀
If I read the posts correctly, the length of the pathway doesn't need altering for different 3" - 4" drivers!? Looking forward to building and listening to these... If they turn out well, I may look at a wood build for my HT system.
Just placed an order for a 10 pack of A3 foam-core sheets from Amazon. Plus from Blue Aran, two Faital Pro 4FE32 4" 8 Ohm drivers 😀
If I read the posts correctly, the length of the pathway doesn't need altering for different 3" - 4" drivers!? Looking forward to building and listening to these... If they turn out well, I may look at a wood build for my HT system.
BMS,
The path lengths do not need altering and can vary by a few inches without problem. Good luck on the build.
The path lengths do not need altering and can vary by a few inches without problem. Good luck on the build.
Questions abt the Dayton Sub Nautaloss...
To be honest I don't understand the dimensions...
Can you X or Grandcalmar sketch a simple picture of it with the dimensions?
Regards
Grandcalmar,
I revised the design a bit to reduce the size and volume which actually gives a little more max SPL. Here is the profile of the sealed TL, your task is to take this linear profile and roll it up to a spiral however you can. This gives you some room for creativity with how you want to make the final outer envelope.
Starting from the driver face.
10 in tall x 4 in long
7 in tall x 6 in long
5 in tall x 24 in long going to a point (sealed tail end for 34 in long TL)
The internal width is 8.5 in
This design can take max of 14 volts rms. Here is SPL at 14 volts, and I think it improved the impulse response somewhat.
To be honest I don't understand the dimensions...
Can you X or Grandcalmar sketch a simple picture of it with the dimensions?
Regards
Thanks BuildMeSomething... But I don't think I'll get it right following your excellent drawing.
Regards
Regards
BMS,
Just make a triangular shaped dagger. All flat walls with a 5 x 9 in baffle leading to a point 36 inches back. Two triangle shaped sides 9 in base x 36 in tall. Side walls are 5 in wide x circa 37 or 38 in long to go back to end. 5 pieces of wood total.
Easy.
Just make a triangular shaped dagger. All flat walls with a 5 x 9 in baffle leading to a point 36 inches back. Two triangle shaped sides 9 in base x 36 in tall. Side walls are 5 in wide x circa 37 or 38 in long to go back to end. 5 pieces of wood total.
Easy.
Sorry, was just playing with SketchUp... playfully took your Nautaloss Sub dimensions literally...
If I move onto a wood build, I'll get some bendy-ply [not kerf board] so shouldn't have much trouble doing the Nautaloss as is... Is there any differences in sizing between the single and duel driver versions? Or just driver position on the baffle?
Can't wait to get the bits, start building and play around with the baffle area... while I'm waiting impatiently I did another SketchUp 😀
If I move onto a wood build, I'll get some bendy-ply [not kerf board] so shouldn't have much trouble doing the Nautaloss as is... Is there any differences in sizing between the single and duel driver versions? Or just driver position on the baffle?
Can't wait to get the bits, start building and play around with the baffle area... while I'm waiting impatiently I did another SketchUp 😀
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I made the mouth area taller to accommodate dual drivers and squashed the spiral to fit - you could make the whole thing taller without squashing. I did it to make sure I could make it out of a single sheet of foam core. Nice sketch up drawing. How flexible is the bendy plywood? The hot melt glue can still be used to hold in place as tacks while the PVA or titebond dries. Looking forward to your build. This is the flattest response speaker I have built - it will just need some BSC in the DSP. I think I used a -4dB high shelf with a 0.5 Q at 1.1khz.
Cheers X, not sure just how flexible the bendy ply is. Might have to get creative with the inner most curve and termination point if I was to keep a similar compact build. Another build option is a normal sealed enclosure with curved sides... but that's just to normal 🙂
FC build first 🙂
FC build first 🙂
Thinking on the wood build, will probably make an MDF template of the complete spiral and outer shell, cut 5 layers from 25mm MDF, then add two sides.
Some very interesting sections in the B&W pt.1 & 2 vid's posted... really liked the demonstration of wave diffraction using water in the dish, with clay boundaries to represent the enclosure... easy, quick & fun to try at home too.
With the FC build I want to try curving the inside transition from baffle to side walls... probably try doing a removable baffle that can be swapped out to try different things.
Some very interesting sections in the B&W pt.1 & 2 vid's posted... really liked the demonstration of wave diffraction using water in the dish, with clay boundaries to represent the enclosure... easy, quick & fun to try at home too.
With the FC build I want to try curving the inside transition from baffle to side walls... probably try doing a removable baffle that can be swapped out to try different things.
I did a curved baffle to side wall with the DCR speaker in the Viva la Vifa thread. Turned out really nice.
Doing a curved side wall would be cool on your Nautaloss, but very hard to do... was just thinking of adding bits to give a smoother internal transition, and a rounded front baffle... with a layered MDF approach, the baffle mount and internal sweep could be easily integrated into a single template.
Working on a plausible model of a template...
Working on a plausible model of a template...
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I think it can be done in foam core with a one piece wrap around front and sidewall covering initial sidewall used to define spiral. The front edges of the spiral wall where it meets the front baffle would be flat with radiused corners and protrudes out for the front wrap around baffle. It would definitely be a foam core sculpture and art piece as much as a speaker. I like your concept with the internal rounded pieces but not sure if they make a difference. I put gray open cell foam in those areas on mine to minimize reflections.
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Wow, that looks beautiful - like a real section from a chambered nautilus sea animal. Can't wait to see your MDF build. Do you have a CNC or will you do this by hand on a jigsaw?
It is a beautiful shape, and all thanks to your efforts here 🙂 The template shape itself would make for a nice room ornament.
It'll be done with a jigsaw, I cut curves better than straight lines. Plus, with a touch of sanding to smooth out afterwards, all should be well, ... The nubs I add for the base give a 5° rear tilt.
It'll be done with a jigsaw, I cut curves better than straight lines. Plus, with a touch of sanding to smooth out afterwards, all should be well, ... The nubs I add for the base give a 5° rear tilt.
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