More interested in your Wall shelf (?) things. Their curved design intrigues.
Headphones (if you can live with them ) have Far less footprint than any speaker 😉
yeah, that's actually repainted CD shelves! Got 24 of them. 🙂
i'll soon remove them to replace it with that:
Brushed stainless steel or painted steel shell + 23kg/m³ density foam. Not sure of the color/pattern that will suit my room best. Need to ask the wife! 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brushed stainless steel or painted steel shell + 23kg/m³ density foam. Not sure of the color/pattern that will suit my room best. Need to ask the wife! 🙂
Ok, back to my OB+sealed speaker:
Just measured the thing with my equipment (SA-3051 + M50 Earthworks + pink noise)
50'' (1270mm) from the wall and close to the wall (233mm), distance from baffle to mic the same in both cases (50''/1,27m as well).
Nothing surprising here. Got something workable from the FR151 starting @ 600hz when i'm away from the wall, and i see glimpse of energy starting @ 280-350hz when closer to the wall. So that's it for the frequency response. Will now do some EQ and listen some music to see if the time delay gives me migraines. Or sudden urges to eat pistachio ice cream.
Just measured the thing with my equipment (SA-3051 + M50 Earthworks + pink noise)
50'' (1270mm) from the wall and close to the wall (233mm), distance from baffle to mic the same in both cases (50''/1,27m as well).
Nothing surprising here. Got something workable from the FR151 starting @ 600hz when i'm away from the wall, and i see glimpse of energy starting @ 280-350hz when closer to the wall. So that's it for the frequency response. Will now do some EQ and listen some music to see if the time delay gives me migraines. Or sudden urges to eat pistachio ice cream.
try mic at listening possition and try again. makes no sense to put mic a few mlimeter in front of driver. (if I read your explanation correctly)
Ok, first attempt tonight to EQ the little monster, i've got great output from the 8W1, but no real traction below 30hz for any EQing. Is that really a surprise? 😛 I mean: 8'' driver in a 13 liters enclosure.. So i'm ending up with a nice flat bass response from about 28hz but boosted like there is no tomorrow. And since that's no W7, i might want to dial back a bit and seek for a 30-32hz cruising speed starting point. Despite the relative lack of low-end (for my standards) the bass is very satisfying: serious & controlled output, nice & clean bass quality.
I will also try a 10W1v3, since that's the next best solution from JL, very-tight-space wise (besides the Thin-lines, which i found not so appealing). I'm very impressed with the W1v3 series, they did an excellent job. Sure the W7 series is crazy and the W6 series sounds great and deliver massive output but the newest W1 is really the best package for the money spent.
10'' nominal size
Fs 25hz (2ohms version)
Works in a 15 liters sealed box.
What's not to like ?
It features shallow mounting depth (4.6 in. / 117 mm) and a compact motor structure, allowing it to comfortably fit in a lot of spaces where a typical 10-inch driver will not. Lacking a pole vent, the rear of the motor structure can be placed directly against an enclosure boundary. Excellent excursion capability and linearity allow it to reproduce sub-bass with shocking extension and quality.
10W1v3-2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W1v3 - JL Audio
Basically, that means i could build an enclosure with a footprint of about 0.034m² or 0.37ft² each side
10'' nominal size
Fs 25hz (2ohms version)
Works in a 15 liters sealed box.
What's not to like ?
It features shallow mounting depth (4.6 in. / 117 mm) and a compact motor structure, allowing it to comfortably fit in a lot of spaces where a typical 10-inch driver will not. Lacking a pole vent, the rear of the motor structure can be placed directly against an enclosure boundary. Excellent excursion capability and linearity allow it to reproduce sub-bass with shocking extension and quality.
10W1v3-2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W1v3 - JL Audio
Basically, that means i could build an enclosure with a footprint of about 0.034m² or 0.37ft² each side
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I see no benefit using the 10'' TW1, you save almost nothing footprint wise and the specs are way less interesting.
There is the TW3 series, but then again
10TW3-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW3 - JL Audio
... Fs 32hz vs 25hz for the W1, only 1 liter less sealed box volume requirement? 2db less efficiency? Much more expensive?
No thank you.
The 13TW5v2, now that's a special driver, no doubt.
13TW5v2-2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW5v2 - JL Audio
But footprint-wise, you still have something quite large (330mm minimum) unless you sideload it, i see no discretion possible with that in a living room! And there is the price 😱
There is the TW3 series, but then again
10TW3-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW3 - JL Audio
... Fs 32hz vs 25hz for the W1, only 1 liter less sealed box volume requirement? 2db less efficiency? Much more expensive?
No thank you.
The 13TW5v2, now that's a special driver, no doubt.
13TW5v2-2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW5v2 - JL Audio
But footprint-wise, you still have something quite large (330mm minimum) unless you sideload it, i see no discretion possible with that in a living room! And there is the price 😱
Besides JL audio, there is Dayton audio.
Last year i got my hands on few LS10-44 and LS12-44.
Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm - Subwoofers - Loudspeaker Drivers By Type - Loudspeaker Components
A bit large (272.2mm) but very shallow.
Specs seems a bit optimistic to me, the 10mm xmax doesnt seem to be comparable with a JL audio 10mm xmax... The Fs is quite high too. Good value, though, and nice looking driver.
Last year i got my hands on few LS10-44 and LS12-44.
Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm - Subwoofers - Loudspeaker Drivers By Type - Loudspeaker Components
A bit large (272.2mm) but very shallow.
Specs seems a bit optimistic to me, the 10mm xmax doesnt seem to be comparable with a JL audio 10mm xmax... The Fs is quite high too. Good value, though, and nice looking driver.
Just noticed they launched a Ultimax 8''!
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-508--dayton-audio-UM8-22-specifications.pdf
Not bad, not bad. Low Fs, great xmax (if realistic), good power handling, small box requirement, even low Mms for such a subwoofer. Not cheap though for some Dayton stuff, but good specs nonetheless.
A comment from a buyer:
''Believe it or not I'm using this for a two-way open baffle design with a Neo 8s on top. Woven glass cone material sounds great up to 800Hz, huge Xmax and higher Qts make it a solid performer ''
Hehe 🙂
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-508--dayton-audio-UM8-22-specifications.pdf
Not bad, not bad. Low Fs, great xmax (if realistic), good power handling, small box requirement, even low Mms for such a subwoofer. Not cheap though for some Dayton stuff, but good specs nonetheless.
A comment from a buyer:
''Believe it or not I'm using this for a two-way open baffle design with a Neo 8s on top. Woven glass cone material sounds great up to 800Hz, huge Xmax and higher Qts make it a solid performer ''
Hehe 🙂
Frankly, i don't think Tang Bang is in the game with their subwoofers.
But there is ONE that might be interesting (for this topic)
Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer
But there is ONE that might be interesting (for this topic)
Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer
You sure won't win any sound quality or SPL contest with a
GRS 10SSW-4
But that is very shallow and darn cheap!
Few months ago, i made an ultra low-budget project using a pair of those. Impressive for the price/space requirement.
GRS 10SSW-4
But that is very shallow and darn cheap!
Few months ago, i made an ultra low-budget project using a pair of those. Impressive for the price/space requirement.
So bass-wise, that pretty sums it up.
JL audio, Dayton...
Unless you can convince yourself that a Scan-speak 6 incher can produce any decent low-end output... Hehehe
JL audio, Dayton...
Unless you can convince yourself that a Scan-speak 6 incher can produce any decent low-end output... Hehehe
A down-firing 8W7 could be an option too 😀
8W7AE-3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W7AE - JL Audio
Need to lowpass @ 100-120hz max, though. A little bit less fun. That would require something like a PS220 or a TB W8 to match it in a FAST config, and forget about OB this time...
8W7AE-3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W7AE - JL Audio
Need to lowpass @ 100-120hz max, though. A little bit less fun. That would require something like a PS220 or a TB W8 to match it in a FAST config, and forget about OB this time...
I forgot about that one:
6W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio
174mm x 108mm driver footprint, say 0.021m² enclosure potential, that's very small.
Excellent Xmax, low efficiency, relatively high Fs, very small sealed box requirement (4 liters!)
Probably the best choice if you want extremely small footprint and are OK with moderate extension ...and if you have an EQ to boost it in the 30-40hz range... Sure the 9mm xmax will help get decent results with an EQ.
150w JL Audio also means it probably can handle 200-250w, which is quite awesome for such a small driver.
6W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio
174mm x 108mm driver footprint, say 0.021m² enclosure potential, that's very small.
Excellent Xmax, low efficiency, relatively high Fs, very small sealed box requirement (4 liters!)
Probably the best choice if you want extremely small footprint and are OK with moderate extension ...and if you have an EQ to boost it in the 30-40hz range... Sure the 9mm xmax will help get decent results with an EQ.
150w JL Audio also means it probably can handle 200-250w, which is quite awesome for such a small driver.
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I’d disagree, i found the TC9 very disappointing. I’m giving mine away.
dave
You can give them to me, i find tc9 great sounding...your finding is suspicious.
Jon, open baffle should be 4-5 ft away from wall. I see no point in making it ob, if you intend close wall placement. Sure its not going to explode, it just makes no sense. Otherwise i does not matter to me.
Wesayso and fluid win this one.
Mine is smaller which may or may not be a good thing for stability. The base is 245mm (W) by 315mm (D)
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Jon, open baffle should be 4-5 ft away from wall. I see no point in making it ob, if you intend close wall placement. Sure its not going to explode, it just makes no sense. Otherwise i does not matter to me.
Will sure make some testing this week-end, in various places in the room.
Right now i'm playing with some different EQ and crossover points. Works very nicely @ 220hz (48db/oct butterworth)
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