Thanks!
No tapering plans (yet). The line works from floor to ceiling so there will be a somewhat natural tapering if you consider the reflection at floor/ceiling.
I've had many different visions/plans with frequency tapering or power tapering but I'm going to try without it first. Some posts by wise men here on this forum confirms the floor to ceiling line does not really need the power tapering.
My current EQ plans are digital from within JRiver Media Player (plugins), going to experiment using different types of EQ. I have a Behringer DEQ 2496 standing by for all other sources like Radio/TV. All music and HT will go trough the PC.
But, there is something in the works that might change these plans somewhat 🙂: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/203356-cloning-ids-25s-16.html#post3620422
No tapering plans (yet). The line works from floor to ceiling so there will be a somewhat natural tapering if you consider the reflection at floor/ceiling.
I've had many different visions/plans with frequency tapering or power tapering but I'm going to try without it first. Some posts by wise men here on this forum confirms the floor to ceiling line does not really need the power tapering.
My current EQ plans are digital from within JRiver Media Player (plugins), going to experiment using different types of EQ. I have a Behringer DEQ 2496 standing by for all other sources like Radio/TV. All music and HT will go trough the PC.
But, there is something in the works that might change these plans somewhat 🙂: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/203356-cloning-ids-25s-16.html#post3620422
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One more thing to add, stacking 130 layers of ply...
and only 2 mm difference between the 2 in height, pretty cool!
and only 2 mm difference between the 2 in height, pretty cool!
Im so impressed with this build! Looking forward to see the completed speakers, keep up the good work
Like the Steve McQueen/Porsche poster. Brings back memories of the Golden Age of prototype racing...............love the speaker project too!
Cheers. Jonathan
Cheers. Jonathan
Thanks guys,
I love that poster too 🙂.
More sanding done and still a few more days of sanding to go:
One is shaped and sanded with 60 grit, the other is sanded with 150 grit.
I will stay at 150 grit for staining. Still some spots to clean up though.
I love that poster too 🙂.
More sanding done and still a few more days of sanding to go:
One is shaped and sanded with 60 grit, the other is sanded with 150 grit.
I will stay at 150 grit for staining. Still some spots to clean up though.
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Wesayso,
How tip-able is this tower? Is it fairly stable from an inadvertent push by a 10 year old or a mild earth quake? The massiveness and weight of all this wood could mean a securing strap at the top to the ceiling anchor for safety?
How tip-able is this tower? Is it fairly stable from an inadvertent push by a 10 year old or a mild earth quake? The massiveness and weight of all this wood could mean a securing strap at the top to the ceiling anchor for safety?
I'd say pretty tip-able. More than I would have thought. A fixture at the top might not be a bad idea.
In all honesty, I have to mention the feet I made for the speakers are wider at the front than the back to fit my own placing needs. It would help to make the back as wide as the front.
Some progress... busy with the finish on the enclosure. 3rd coat is on, I'll post more about it when all coats are done.
(this is the 3rd coat a few minutes ago, still wet)
The temp paint room:
(this is the 3rd coat a few minutes ago, still wet)
The temp paint room:
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That is an impressive piece of work. That's a lot of joinery and I sincerely hope you don't end up with any wood expansion issues (as some others have reported with this type of construction).
You'll need a few hands to baby those through whatever doorway they'll have to pass. You seem to know what you're doing, however, so more power to you.
You'll need a few hands to baby those through whatever doorway they'll have to pass. You seem to know what you're doing, however, so more power to you.
Are the drivers mounted yet? We have not see closeup photo with drivers but it looks like they are in? Very nice finish color there.
Drivers aren't mounted yet. That will take a while. Still have to bring my friend the aluminum. I'm waiting on taking final measurements after both enclosures are painted inside and out.
This looks great. I have a similar project - 102 section of Baltic Birch Ply, but mine will make a logarithmic spiral. Very Very impressive. Did you use a particular vanish?
I saw that thread of yours... 4 sheets of 18 mm ply right? I used the same number of 18 mm ply sheets plus 1.5 sheet of 15 mm 😀.
Originally I wanted to cover them with fiberglass mat and epoxy, like they do on boats. But after a lot of reading and browsing I figured a good coat of polyurethane would be enough. That is what is used on a few commercial speakers. I saw no further need to make them sea worthy.
I'm going to do 5 coats and after that decide if I need even more. I'm planning on covering the inner side with two coats to keep moisture out of the wooden enclosure. All that to prevent/limit expansion. I've seen a 5 mm difference in length over a few days. But the last 2 weeks it has been very stable.
Originally I wanted to cover them with fiberglass mat and epoxy, like they do on boats. But after a lot of reading and browsing I figured a good coat of polyurethane would be enough. That is what is used on a few commercial speakers. I saw no further need to make them sea worthy.
I'm going to do 5 coats and after that decide if I need even more. I'm planning on covering the inner side with two coats to keep moisture out of the wooden enclosure. All that to prevent/limit expansion. I've seen a 5 mm difference in length over a few days. But the last 2 weeks it has been very stable.
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I have changes the thickness of the ply. I just need three sheets of ply for the pair. 2x 38mm and 1 sheet of 18mm.
When you say you used polyurethane, do you mean a 2 part gel-coat? Or a vanish?
When you say you used polyurethane, do you mean a 2 part gel-coat? Or a vanish?