It looks really good!
Black chassis with silver badge and button, with shiny polished edge on the platter plus black vinyl ... and silver tonearm.
How about a record weight in silver to top it up?
Shows what a little spit and polish can do to rejuvenate this old workhorse!
Black chassis with silver badge and button, with shiny polished edge on the platter plus black vinyl ... and silver tonearm.
How about a record weight in silver to top it up?
Shows what a little spit and polish can do to rejuvenate this old workhorse!
I'm starting to plan a turntable build now to start when I'm done with my amps. You can really go down the rabbit hole with these things!The Chasss has been sent to be refinished, my brother-in-law owns an automotive paint and body shop, he is going to prep and paint it, I merely need to decide on a color. Somebody has suggested Autoair colors 4584, but it would clash with the plinth.
These photos were made to assist me in the reassembly of the turntable, but I thought you may want to see them as well
Great score for you on these tables!
My HIFI friend here is just finishing up a 2 year build on his. Mk3 I believe. Many $10k's spent so far. Every imaginable modification and no expense spared. Plinth CNC'd from solid block of aluminum (+200 lbs), panzerholz, and Alsa Corp matte black finish. Not to mention the arms, carts, power supply, etc.

I don't plan anything this extreme, but fun to drool!
Great luck on your build!
How i love to see a no compromise diy work!
I'm not especially fond of the odd-shaped rectangular SP-10 chassis so kudos to anyone biting the bullet and using these as loaners only for the important stuff.
Your friend could do a lot worse at spending his money...
I'm not especially fond of the odd-shaped rectangular SP-10 chassis so kudos to anyone biting the bullet and using these as loaners only for the important stuff.
Your friend could do a lot worse at spending his money...
6l6, my HIFI friend gave me a SP-10 MK2 and power supply yesterday. So I'm even more interested in what you have done so far.
I guess I should start my own build thread, but can you give me some advice on what caps you changed and how you determined what to buy?
I also read about cutting some of the traces and adding regulators? Any advice?
The chassis and the power supply on the one I received was poorly painted white, but everything runs correctly and the platter is clean. I plan on building a completely new plinth, CNC aluminum block, just not as massive as my friends and only one tonearm.

I guess I should start my own build thread, but can you give me some advice on what caps you changed and how you determined what to buy?
I also read about cutting some of the traces and adding regulators? Any advice?
The chassis and the power supply on the one I received was poorly painted white, but everything runs correctly and the platter is clean. I plan on building a completely new plinth, CNC aluminum block, just not as massive as my friends and only one tonearm.

I guess I should start my own build thread,
Nah. Post in this one, there are 4 of us now. (Me, SY, jpjones, and you.) It will keep things easy to find and the knowledge not lost to multiple threads.
but can you give me some advice on what caps you changed and how you determined what to buy?
I opened up the deck and looked at the caps. Nothing more complicated than that. 🙂
I also read about cutting some of the traces and adding regulators? Any advice?
Advice? Sure -
don't, unless you really need to.
The chassis and the power supply on the one I received was poorly painted white,
Time for a refinish, methinks.
but everything runs correctly and the platter is clean. I plan on building a completely new plinth, CNC aluminum block, just not as massive as my friends and only one tonearm.
Wonderful! Take tons of photos, take notes, and post everything here.
Looking forward to seeing it. 🙂 🙂 🙂
IMO, 12" arms are overrated - the advantage is tracking error is outweighed by the disadvantage in overall mass and inertia.
10.5" arms however are closest in balancing the 'sweet spot' regarding the above issues, and require nowhere near as huge a plinth.
10.5" arms however are closest in balancing the 'sweet spot' regarding the above issues, and require nowhere near as huge a plinth.
Thanks for inviting in! I will be well behind you, so looking to you guys for advice. And to see what your impressions are with your build.Nah. Post in this one, there are 4 of us now. (Me, SY, jpjones, and you.) It will keep things easy to find and the knowledge not lost to multiple threads.
I opened up the deck and looked at the caps. Nothing more complicated than that. 🙂
Advice? Sure -
don't, unless you really need to.
Time for a refinish, methinks.
Wonderful! Take tons of photos, take notes, and post everything here.
Looking forward to seeing it. 🙂 🙂 🙂
I still have a few days left to finish my amps, but I know some items I want for my turntable with take some time to sort out/order/sketch etc. so I will be working through some of it while I finish the amps.
My friend is partial to the 4points Kuzma. I will probably build in an armboard that could be changed for different length arms, but only for one arm to keep the overall plinth smaller. Planning on about 150lbs total weight.
Yes, cartridge compliance is very important when considering the tonearm, no question.
But it has nothing to do with inertia and moment of inertia.
But it has nothing to do with inertia and moment of inertia.
It does indirectly.... a heavier arm will have more of both irrespective of length. But why won't you want *more* inertia for a massive cartridge, like say an SPU?
IMO, 12" arms are overrated - the advantage is tracking error is outweighed by the disadvantage in overall mass and inertia.
Very true I can have any arm(s) I want but chose a 9" SME V for stereo and a SME 309 for mono. I'll wait for Jim to reveal how to re-finish the chassis before moving them over from my Model 10, can't wait !!
Dave
I'm thinking powder coat. I have a close friend visiting this weekend; she is the top product development person for the powder coating division of a major paint company and she may have some ideas (or warnings!). My goals are both appearance and any energy dissipation I can manage.
Not sure if this will work or how durable it would be.
Sound reducing paint
May be inside of chassis can be painted with it and outer side powder coat or anodized or plated.
Regards
Sound reducing paint
May be inside of chassis can be painted with it and outer side powder coat or anodized or plated.
Regards
Having SP10 mkII with all electronics moved outboard and connected via a loom lead, I can say with total confidence that the subjective experience is enormously improved. This mod I believe to be mandatory and a first to accomplish before getting worried about anything else (provided that the unit is basically up to spec).
I attach a poor picture of the now outboard power supply. I sent the whole unit to an expert who is finding difficulty in being able to return it to me so (UK readers will know what I mean!), I cannot supply pics of the latest set up - it is intended to ditch the top-plate in its entirety and to mount the motor and platter only in a purpose built plinth.
I attach a poor picture of the now outboard power supply. I sent the whole unit to an expert who is finding difficulty in being able to return it to me so (UK readers will know what I mean!), I cannot supply pics of the latest set up - it is intended to ditch the top-plate in its entirety and to mount the motor and platter only in a purpose built plinth.
Attachments
Building a new plinth, only carrying over the motor and platter, and moving all the electronics into a new chassis is also my goal.Having SP10 mkII with all electronics moved outboard and connected via a loom lead, I can say with total confidence that the subjective experience is enormously improved. This mod I believe to be mandatory and a first to accomplish before getting worried about anything else (provided that the unit is basically up to spec).
I attach a poor picture of the now outboard power supply. I sent the whole unit to an expert who is finding difficulty in being able to return it to me so (UK readers will know what I mean!), I cannot supply pics of the latest set up - it is intended to ditch the top-plate in its entirety and to mount the motor and platter only in a purpose built plinth.
Very interested in any information and photos you can provide. I can only assume increasing the length of the interconnecting wire loom requires some modifications to the electronics? Or is there enough adjustment built in to compensate?
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