Cheers Dave.
I presumed there must be a bit more too it given its size.
Appreciate all the help but I’ve decided to leave it and just use it. The visible part of the deck works just the same and I have room for the bits.
Although I have the guidance if I do take the back off and want to look into things (maybe if it ever skips a beat and I look at a cap refresh etc. As well).
I presumed there must be a bit more too it given its size.
Appreciate all the help but I’ve decided to leave it and just use it. The visible part of the deck works just the same and I have room for the bits.
Although I have the guidance if I do take the back off and want to look into things (maybe if it ever skips a beat and I look at a cap refresh etc. As well).
You will probably need a resistor, won't do any harm.
For the 3.3V LED look at the current rating then divide the desired volt drop by the current.
If 3.3 V LED draws 10mA and your supply was say 6 volts. Your resistor would be 2.7/0.010 = 270R. A 1 watt resistor should do you. 10mA dissipated into 270R is 0.027 watts.
If its powered off of AC it will only light 50% of the time, i.e for each half cycle. Suspect this shouldn't be a problem.
If its too bright, increase the resistor value.
For the 3.3V LED look at the current rating then divide the desired volt drop by the current.
If 3.3 V LED draws 10mA and your supply was say 6 volts. Your resistor would be 2.7/0.010 = 270R. A 1 watt resistor should do you. 10mA dissipated into 270R is 0.027 watts.
If its powered off of AC it will only light 50% of the time, i.e for each half cycle. Suspect this shouldn't be a problem.
If its too bright, increase the resistor value.
LEDs were mere lab curiosities when the SP-10 'tables were developed. You can still find the miniature light bulbs, but I replaced mine with an amber/yellow LED. Since the power light runs off its own winding, you'll need a series diode to rectify the AC as you'll likely exceed the reverse breakdown voltage of the LED w/o it -- a common 1N4002 will do just fine. Then you'll need the resistor mentioned above, the exact value dependent both on the output of the SP-10's pilot light winding and the properties of the LED. Also, IIRC, you'll need a small-ish LED, like 'T-1' size to approximate the size of the original light bulb.
Last part correct, but of course LED's are used in the speed selector buttons. I always replace the PSU bulb with a tiny identical filament bulb, it gives such a lovely glow and needs nothing extra at all.
Dave
OK, here is like it is.
I'll answer anything I know about the SP-10 here in the public domain only, but not by PM. We all need to share our experiences here.
For commercial paid work I'll help if an email is sent to Technics SP10-MKII SP-10 MKII SP-10Mk2, SP-10Mk3, SP-10Mk4 but not here or by PM.
This is a DIY forum and for anything that I help with, the user must have a good quality multimeter, a cheap Fluke is always the best. And for complex issues a scope, the Rigol DS1054Z is what a lot of us use. Without either is ******* in the wind.
So, the PSU bulb, in the UK it's available from http://cpc.farnell.com/ the 12V version that's a tad dim is AR70316 and the 6V version AR70317 .
Regards
Dave
I'll answer anything I know about the SP-10 here in the public domain only, but not by PM. We all need to share our experiences here.
For commercial paid work I'll help if an email is sent to Technics SP10-MKII SP-10 MKII SP-10Mk2, SP-10Mk3, SP-10Mk4 but not here or by PM.
This is a DIY forum and for anything that I help with, the user must have a good quality multimeter, a cheap Fluke is always the best. And for complex issues a scope, the Rigol DS1054Z is what a lot of us use. Without either is ******* in the wind.
So, the PSU bulb, in the UK it's available from http://cpc.farnell.com/ the 12V version that's a tad dim is AR70316 and the 6V version AR70317 .
Regards
Dave
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