Rounding out the mat conversation a page or two back, I didn't see this one mentioned ("The Mat"). I'm still pretty shocked at how much a mat can affect the experience. Of all the ones I've tried to date graphite works for me—for now 
. I do have a Tenuto inbound I picked up for a steal—for a second SP-10 project....
And @6L6 dropped the Wyn phono project on me because he probably knows I'll build it immediately. V3.2 boards are ordered (file says 3.2, gerbers say 3.1—they are not in hand yet). There will be 6 available (need 2 if you want to build MM plus MC)—actual PCB cost + shipping + envelopes + first come first serve — up for grabs with a PM...
. I do have a Tenuto inbound I picked up for a steal—for a second SP-10 project....And @6L6 dropped the Wyn phono project on me because he probably knows I'll build it immediately. V3.2 boards are ordered (file says 3.2, gerbers say 3.1—they are not in hand yet). There will be 6 available (need 2 if you want to build MM plus MC)—actual PCB cost + shipping + envelopes + first come first serve — up for grabs with a PM...
Hi guys I hope someone can point me in the correct direction. I bough a SP10 mkII from an auction site without P/S. The T/T arrived in good condition with the platter running very freely.
I made up a power supply from parts I had laying around in my workshop & ended up with 31.5 (I no it should be 32.5) which do to neibhourhood power supply variations drooped away to 30 VC at times. The 5VCD was easier & stays constant, did not bother with the 140V strobe. I also inserted a switch for the 32.5 voltage to allow the 5 v to stabilize before switching the 32v on.
Fired it & it worked, you could hear the control on the 1st needle drop, just staggering. Used for about a week, but still plagued by voltage variations.
So I tried a different set up on the 32v using a DC booster unit, set that to the correct voltage & nothing, When I turned the new 32v P/S on I did not hear the click over in the T/T!!
I have gone back to the original P/S (with it's limitation), started up again & again nothing.
So is there something inside the actual SP10 T/T, that I could have say, blown a fuse, or tripped something out.
Any pointers greatly appreciated.
Cheers
I made up a power supply from parts I had laying around in my workshop & ended up with 31.5 (I no it should be 32.5) which do to neibhourhood power supply variations drooped away to 30 VC at times. The 5VCD was easier & stays constant, did not bother with the 140V strobe. I also inserted a switch for the 32.5 voltage to allow the 5 v to stabilize before switching the 32v on.
Fired it & it worked, you could hear the control on the 1st needle drop, just staggering. Used for about a week, but still plagued by voltage variations.
So I tried a different set up on the 32v using a DC booster unit, set that to the correct voltage & nothing, When I turned the new 32v P/S on I did not hear the click over in the T/T!!
I have gone back to the original P/S (with it's limitation), started up again & again nothing.
So is there something inside the actual SP10 T/T, that I could have say, blown a fuse, or tripped something out.
Any pointers greatly appreciated.
Cheers
There are no fuses in the SP10 they are all in the PS.
Did you check the voltages again. Is the 33rpm LED on when you switch the PS on.
What power is the 32V PS when you step voltage up current capacity drops.
Lastly are both 32 and 5V coming up simultaneously I have heard if the 32V lags the 5V the logic will lock up I haven't experienced this but Wayne from Pass Labs confirmed it.
Did you check the voltages again. Is the 33rpm LED on when you switch the PS on.
What power is the 32V PS when you step voltage up current capacity drops.
Lastly are both 32 and 5V coming up simultaneously I have heard if the 32V lags the 5V the logic will lock up I haven't experienced this but Wayne from Pass Labs confirmed it.
Hi, Yes have check voltages several time. In my mock up P/S I have a separate switch to turn on the 32.5 V. The 5 volts is on as soon as I turn on the mains switch. I did that because I read elsewhere, there needs to be a delay between the two powering up. 5 V first then after a few seconds 32 v. When working you could hear a click over. Now you cannot hear the click over, & the platter is not spinning. If you turn on the 32V to quickly the motor spins out of control.
Cheers
Cheers
When you get the problem sorted you can add a relay to switch the 32V on from the 5V this will delay the 32V slightly.
Can you please go over the symptoms again as you said the SP10 was not turning on ie no brake relay click. then you said the platter is spinning fast. Also is the fault intermittent?
Can you please go over the symptoms again as you said the SP10 was not turning on ie no brake relay click. then you said the platter is spinning fast. Also is the fault intermittent?
Hi, OK brake rely click happened when SP10 worked with 1st trail P/S, but voltage kept dropping to low to continue to use this 1st version. But when mains voltage OK, SP10 worked OK.
-Sinning to fast happened before I found out about about needing the delay between 5v & 32v turning on, I put a separate switch in 32v line to accommodate that. Yes I know I can put a delay circuit in place, when I sort 32V out.
So was hopping there may be a fuse inside that had blown, but sadly no.
Hope that clarifies the situation
Cheers
-Sinning to fast happened before I found out about about needing the delay between 5v & 32v turning on, I put a separate switch in 32v line to accommodate that. Yes I know I can put a delay circuit in place, when I sort 32V out.
- Second attempt at steady 32v, any will no brake actuation & no T/T rotation. But 5v 33 rpm light is on OK.
- Went back to 1st 32V set up & again brake not clicking in & no rotation.
So was hopping there may be a fuse inside that had blown, but sadly no.
Hope that clarifies the situation
Cheers
You need to check if there is 32V at the PCBs, This can be measured on C4 at the Connection PCB, you could also measure at the cathode end of the diode on the brake solenoid. If the 32V is missing the solenoid will not pick as the Logic PCB grounds the anode side via TR213.
I suspect the 32V will be there as the 33RPM LED is on. If this is the case then there is most likely a fault on the Logic PCB.
I suspect the 32V will be there as the 33RPM LED is on. If this is the case then there is most likely a fault on the Logic PCB.
@audiostar I guess in a nutshell I have been working towards this in an iterative approach. My next project is a microprocessor vector controller to drive the SP10mk2 motor. This will be more an exercise in keeping the grey matter working and me busy than anything else.
The problem with building something from scratch is the cost of the motor. Not all DD motors are created equal, most consumer grade DD TT's use BLDC motors with trapezoidal back EMF (BEMF) which creates harmonics if driven from a sinusoidal source. The SP10 is a Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor with perfect sinusoidal BEMF so driven from a sinusoidal source harmonic vibration is minimized, it's also high torque for exceptional dynamic speed stability.
The motor in the VPI DD is $4k USD for the stator and rotor magnet then it needs a tacho and housing designed and built. The R&D budget is more than I'm willing to spend. I suspect driving the SP10mk2 motor using FOC will have cogging and torque ripple as low as anything out there, but I guess we'll see.
The SP10mk2 is a killer TT and improving the platter as Technics did with the mk3 and 10R is a huge improvement over the stock unit. Then removing the motor from the chassis and installing it in a good plinth also removes a considerable source of acoustic noise, the PCB's, wiring and chassis vibrating.
The problem with building something from scratch is the cost of the motor. Not all DD motors are created equal, most consumer grade DD TT's use BLDC motors with trapezoidal back EMF (BEMF) which creates harmonics if driven from a sinusoidal source. The SP10 is a Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor with perfect sinusoidal BEMF so driven from a sinusoidal source harmonic vibration is minimized, it's also high torque for exceptional dynamic speed stability.
The motor in the VPI DD is $4k USD for the stator and rotor magnet then it needs a tacho and housing designed and built. The R&D budget is more than I'm willing to spend. I suspect driving the SP10mk2 motor using FOC will have cogging and torque ripple as low as anything out there, but I guess we'll see.
The SP10mk2 is a killer TT and improving the platter as Technics did with the mk3 and 10R is a huge improvement over the stock unit. Then removing the motor from the chassis and installing it in a good plinth also removes a considerable source of acoustic noise, the PCB's, wiring and chassis vibrating.
warrjon
Your obsession with SP-10 has turned it into a killer no compromise turntable. You have succeeded. I wish some rich guy to fund your R&D project to make the perfect turntable. Back to reality. The AR turntable from the 1960s was a simple but effective turntable. Keep working on the SP-10 because you like to improve it. At the same time turn your attention to a belt drive. I bet you could make a good one!
Your obsession with SP-10 has turned it into a killer no compromise turntable. You have succeeded. I wish some rich guy to fund your R&D project to make the perfect turntable. Back to reality. The AR turntable from the 1960s was a simple but effective turntable. Keep working on the SP-10 because you like to improve it. At the same time turn your attention to a belt drive. I bet you could make a good one!
@DNic, one side of the brake solenoid is directly off C4 (32V rail) on the connection PCB, and the other is to ground via TR213 on the logic board. TR213 base is controlled by IC8 pin 13. In the stopped state that pin should be high - approx 4V.
It really sounds like the 32V isn't there - are you sure it's connected properly? If it is, verify IC8 voltages. If correct, verify TR208-213.
It really sounds like the 32V isn't there - are you sure it's connected properly? If it is, verify IC8 voltages. If correct, verify TR208-213.