I took my SP10 to a friends place to benchmark it against his Goldmund Reference.
This was posted by Peter who owns the Goldmund
https://www.stereonet.com/forums/topic/584528-warren-jones-state-of-the-art-turntabletonearm/
This was posted by Peter who owns the Goldmund
https://www.stereonet.com/forums/topic/584528-warren-jones-state-of-the-art-turntabletonearm/
I just received a pretty clean SL1000MK2 yesterday and after getting it set up, early impressions are fantastic, but a few questions from a novice:
- The strobe is visibly flashing/blinking at a steady rate. I assume this is a good indicator the power supply could use a re-cap (and hopefully not something more serious)?
- The anti-skate dial on the EPA100 is quite stiff but allows for very fine adjustment. I'm used to my old SL1200 which feels like a toy in comparison, but how firm is the anti-skate supposed to be?
- The aftermarket DIN --> RCA cable the seller supplied is faulty (R channel drops out when using a moving coil, but will work if I touch the ground lead to the barrel of the R connector (the chassis is separately grounded to my phono preamp through the grounding lug). The cable works fine with moving magnets, I assume because the signal returns are tied together. I'm going to put together a replacement cable myself - does anyone have a recommendation for a DIN connector they like that will work with the EPA100?
- The power supply is missing the toggle cap; does anyone have a spare kicking around they'd sell me?
- The platter probably hasn't been removed in years. What's the best way to remove it gently?
- The rubber tonearm gaskets are pretty hard. Anywhere to get replacements?
1. Likely the neon bulb is failing.
2. That's grease turning to glue - it shouldn't be stiff at all. Careful the plastic gears.
3. Coils on an MM shouldn't be tied together. The generic style like the Zavfino/1877 TAD classic works fine.
5. Remove the screws and lift straight up. Shouldn't be an issue.
6. The mounting gaskets? No that I've seen. Easy enough to make from sheet stock.
2. That's grease turning to glue - it shouldn't be stiff at all. Careful the plastic gears.
3. Coils on an MM shouldn't be tied together. The generic style like the Zavfino/1877 TAD classic works fine.
5. Remove the screws and lift straight up. Shouldn't be an issue.
6. The mounting gaskets? No that I've seen. Easy enough to make from sheet stock.
Most difficult part for some would be disconnecting and re-soldering the arm wires from the din connector. Other than that the most important bit will be keeping the gear relationships correct.
You wont be able to clear all the old grease from the gear that houses the AS spring (and the spring itself) without taking the gimbal apart, which I wouldn’t recommend doing, but it’ll be good enough. The biggest problem spot is the gear under the dial.
To get the spanner out you can cut the ends off two poster pins, hold them in the spanner holes, and grab them with pliers. A bit fiddly, but it works.
You wont be able to clear all the old grease from the gear that houses the AS spring (and the spring itself) without taking the gimbal apart, which I wouldn’t recommend doing, but it’ll be good enough. The biggest problem spot is the gear under the dial.
To get the spanner out you can cut the ends off two poster pins, hold them in the spanner holes, and grab them with pliers. A bit fiddly, but it works.
