Depending on how it is wired, current code rules enforce to have 220V there, just that it is hidden as a split receptacle. Easy enough to tell, just measure across the two receptacles, on the short blades, if it is a split it will read 220V.
Just because it is 220V does not mean you are going to save any energy
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I don't understand it AT ALL, I think USA + Canada are just clinging to old habits, most of the civilized world is 220-240 volt 50hz which is great for power tools etc.
Quite a few countries with let's call it less stable economy, seem to copy the US for some reason.
Mains electricity by country - Wikipedia
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Personally I really like the regular Type F Schuko sockets. Safe up to 16 amps, but not recommended for much more than 10-12 amps for long term loads.
Power plug & outlet Type F (Schuko) - World Standards
My EV charger is on a 32 amp fuse, I can adjust the power draw with an app on my phone, currently set to 26 amps 230V.
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Once the stake was placed, it is permanent and impossible to change due to cost and economics.
The bottom line is we have 220-240V coming into the house, a 3-wire Edison, a center tapped transformer, but the code only allows 120V on most outlets because the gadgets are designed for it. real simple.
They copy the US because the gadgets are designed for those systems, back to economics and availability.
The US still uses the Imperial measuring system as the National Standard. I think it is comical in that they had a revolution against the Brits, long ago, but retain the archaic measurement system, once again, people do not want to change, deem it too costly & disruptive to change = real simple.
The bottom line is we have 220-240V coming into the house, a 3-wire Edison, a center tapped transformer, but the code only allows 120V on most outlets because the gadgets are designed for it. real simple.
They copy the US because the gadgets are designed for those systems, back to economics and availability.
The US still uses the Imperial measuring system as the National Standard. I think it is comical in that they had a revolution against the Brits, long ago, but retain the archaic measurement system, once again, people do not want to change, deem it too costly & disruptive to change = real simple.
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Yeah, I remember in grade school in the 1970’s - learning about the Metric system because the US was FINALLY going to join “the rest of the world” in our system of weights and measures. Somehow, the effort fizzled....
I’m a bit surprised that our car speedometers don’t read in “furlongs per fortnight”, or some other archaic units.
I’m a bit surprised that our car speedometers don’t read in “furlongs per fortnight”, or some other archaic units.
I once lived in a house and we had a 2.4KW microwave oven, 220VAC. A coffee mug of water or a can of spaghetti O's, boiling in 30 sec.😀. I would walk away after turning it on. Talk about nuked, it was a scary amount of radiation in there.
OK - getting semi-back-on-topic, but STILL related:
Dad worked at a TV & Appliance Store in the early 1970’s, and he picked up a new Microwave Oven. Old-school units only had a timer (rotate Analog Dial type) and a Start Button. They ALWAYS ran at full-power.
Dad was a hunter & Mom tried cooking wild duck stuffed with Wild Rice & herbs. It got REALLY dry and tough. A serrated knife made hacksaw sounds when attempting to cut it. We STILL tease Mom about her secret “Bullet-Proof Duck” recipe...
Dad worked at a TV & Appliance Store in the early 1970’s, and he picked up a new Microwave Oven. Old-school units only had a timer (rotate Analog Dial type) and a Start Button. They ALWAYS ran at full-power.
Dad was a hunter & Mom tried cooking wild duck stuffed with Wild Rice & herbs. It got REALLY dry and tough. A serrated knife made hacksaw sounds when attempting to cut it. We STILL tease Mom about her secret “Bullet-Proof Duck” recipe...
But now it's frequently less so, look at the fine print on various appliances, many things work from 110v to 240v, both 50 and 60hz. It is cheaper to make a PSU that does it all than having lots of different ones.
Cellphone chargers
Computer power supplies
TV's/monitors/projectors
Most things that use SMPS probably has a switch or automatic system for adapting to various voltages. More and more things use switch mode supplies, so the point of "just sticking with it" is slowly fading.
On another note, you could save a bit on power loss going to higher voltage. Since the cable type and thickness mostly dictate amperage, the voltage loss is more or less constant, IE you lose the same amount of volts over a given distance so doubling voltage effectively halves overall power loss since you can run the same amount of amps through the cable.
Very short and simplified: Double power, half the loss, over a given distance/cable thickness.
Regarding food and microwaves, in my not so humble opinion, microwaves are only good for a whole TWO different things. Namely heating water, and melting chocolate (to pour over a cake for glazing).
Everything else is much better using other methods.
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I do see one benefit of 120volt systems. It is much better for heating hot dogs.
If you put some hot dogs in the buns (to heat the buns ofcourse) and connect hot dogs in series, then monitor the amps running through them you are less likely to make the hot dogs explode (when running two in series).
I used to break the circuit when the amp meter read 2.5 amps on a variac set to 120 volts, two series connected regular hot dogs in buns. The power draw will change as the fat melts, a cold sausage has higher resistance so lower amps at first but quickly increasing. Power draw will vary pending on type and thickness of sausage.
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During one of Boston's worst summers we hunted down both phases to put a huge 30000 BTU AC into our dorm lounge. We used two heavy duty extension cords and DIY adapter (not to code 🙂).
The energy is saved by using #6 or #8 wire for the 220 heavy load outlet. I don't know of any code that prevents pulling multiple 220 hookups to a kitchen. We just had one done. BTW the makers of the ventless (110V) dryers have an approved plugin adapter to divide the 220 into two phases which presumably retain the heavy load capability.
One would think, one the most used item, the new gen LED lamp, ours are not 220-240V capable, making it universal ACV might add a few extra cents, even then, that is too much to bare.
I believe 120V vs 240V was chosen because of the shock, safety factors over extra line IR losses. People, just like your hot dogs, explode so much faster at 240V.
That may be, but I've never exploded before.
The most common reason for dying of electric shock is disturbances to heart rhythm, just as likely to happen at 110v if you're susceptible to such a thing.
The most common reason for dying of electric shock is disturbances to heart rhythm, just as likely to happen at 110v if you're susceptible to such a thing.
220 is better for local power distribution and 60 hertz allows for nicer transformers.
In the US you are allowed to install 240 volt outlets as you please although I don't know if you can find the arc interrupting circuit breakers for the higher voltage to allow use in all locations.
In my house I have 120, 240 VAC outlets and run 24 VDC for lighting in places. I may eventually change all of the lighting to 24 VDC.
The normal house has what is called 200 amp service. My circuit breaker panel is 100 amp. With the energy saving bits I really don't need more. Normal heavy loads are an electric range (50A max), microwave oven (15), clothes dryer (30A), and airconditioning (Size changes things 20A.)
I prefer a gas range, but currently use induction cook tops.
In the US you are allowed to install 240 volt outlets as you please although I don't know if you can find the arc interrupting circuit breakers for the higher voltage to allow use in all locations.
In my house I have 120, 240 VAC outlets and run 24 VDC for lighting in places. I may eventually change all of the lighting to 24 VDC.
The normal house has what is called 200 amp service. My circuit breaker panel is 100 amp. With the energy saving bits I really don't need more. Normal heavy loads are an electric range (50A max), microwave oven (15), clothes dryer (30A), and airconditioning (Size changes things 20A.)
I prefer a gas range, but currently use induction cook tops.
College in the Bronx -- just put the mattress on the fire-escape in the summer.
Absurd overkill? 😉 I think my objection is that the highest quality cooking stuff is unobtanium, or is attached to designer prices.
I'll hopefully be buying a house down in SD in maybe a year? Until then I'll be in a condo with no deck. I can manage!
One of our 2 AC/Heat pumps has 40A of backup resistance, the other 20A heating alone (for defrost cycle & temps below 25F or so). Throw in the compressor and air handler motors, maybe another 20A
We have a really crappy integrated induction cook top now, in our old house we had a really good induction top.
Same for the oven, I had to change it immediately after moving house, the integrated oven was completely useless. Very happy with the new one, Gram IOP 12654-92 in black.
Most circuit breakers in house are usually 10, 16, 20 or 32 amps.
For high power stuff we use 3 phase 400v.
I have 16A for the oven and 20A for the cooking top.
It's confirmed. Cal and Hanh are addicts.
We look forward to food shopping, we do it as one of our fun activities.
This Saturday morning I went food shopping and my wife, after spending time with her dad, went shopping also. On Sunday we went together.
Beyond the regular stuff you have to buy, there is the "we can't miss out on this price" things:
4 pieces of pork belly for:
Bacon
Oriental roast pork
Char Siu
Two 3kg. boxes of split and seasoned wings, frozen. (we already have more than 10kg in the freezer.
24, yes 24 bottles of mouthwash.
I think we need to see a therapist.
A skinny one.
We look forward to food shopping, we do it as one of our fun activities.
This Saturday morning I went food shopping and my wife, after spending time with her dad, went shopping also. On Sunday we went together.
Beyond the regular stuff you have to buy, there is the "we can't miss out on this price" things:
4 pieces of pork belly for:
Bacon
Oriental roast pork
Char Siu
Two 3kg. boxes of split and seasoned wings, frozen. (we already have more than 10kg in the freezer.
24, yes 24 bottles of mouthwash.
I think we need to see a therapist.
A skinny one.
I thought there were much worse addictions than food shopping but then I got to the mouthwash.
I worry now... 🙂
I worry now... 🙂
I worry too. Around here, at $2/litre, when it's usually $6. Now I have to worry about our floor caving in from the extra weight. Bad honey. 😉