Gadget I cannot disagree but I am certain machines like this in 5 years will rule the roost - no need for a workshop just some space and away they go
fair enough. it would just seem like that format will never have enough weight, or rigidity to perform truly accurate, repeatable cuts; particularly in metals, just because of the way it works.
Ahhhhhh, right, I know the syndrome quite well. Thats how I started by building a portable amp and more than 10 years later, that has turned into designing and building my own multichannel dac, amp, measurement ADC, LNA, streamer, dsp, active speaker ... lol, and to think most people are happy to just walk into a big box store and buy whatever the spotty sales rep recommends. I wish I was that easily satisfied.
Yes. In Poland. But I didn't order them the way you described. I found a store in the Netherlands that has these speakers in stock. And a good price for buying more than six pieces. Additionally, in euro. Free transportation.
I made the purchase for a company, so without VAT.
It resulted in a lot of savings and immediate delivery of the ordered goods.
I do not know if entering the store address here will not be inconsistent with the regulations?
I am amazed that somebody would have had eight in stock, but there you go. Being able to claim VAT (we call it GST here) is something I will be able to claim here, but not free freight. By the time I get them I expect to pay AUD $3800 and that is about 330 Euro each. I expect you did a little better around 315-320 Euro each. Considering the difference in distance, that's about right.
When I talked to US supplier Madisound they indicated that they had not been able to get the driver during their last order but if available from the company it would be about a month to receive them. The DKK to $ is about .15 which comes to about $275/driver plus whatever shipping or taxes might apply.
People seem to be jumping in with both feet even though the design is not a sure thing. That said, I'm probably selling my BNIB SB17MFC35-8 drivers because I have serious FOMO.
People seem to be jumping in with both feet even though the design is not a sure thing. That said, I'm probably selling my BNIB SB17MFC35-8 drivers because I have serious FOMO.
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I paid 2080E. So 260E apiece. Now I can see that I have emptied the shop shelf. Three left.
Order the PURIFI PTT6.5W08-NFA-01 woofer - SoundImports
Order the PURIFI PTT6.5W08-NFA-01 woofer - SoundImports
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Building my Hamlet (Center) got all the boards laminated together, and started routering my first hole, and my damn router died. I was about to buy a new router, took the cover section off where the switch is and the speed control, noticed a blacked connection and loose PCB portion, and touched those two points together, and wallah, started working. I soldered between the two points which both say "in" I'm pretty sure it's a speed selection board, and hopefully that will be enough to cut the 4 holes I need without having to buy a new router right now. Part of the problem is if I get the router I want is going to take at least 10 days! Thanks Government reaction to Covid!
I need to remember where the Hamlet Post started and they did at #4001
Crossovers and Parts List for Elsinore models start post #4059
Hamlet Parts List with port details are post #3974
The Crossover Hamlet Parts List repeated here:
You can see that it says 60mm OD - outer diameter PVC pipe, so the inside diameter will be a bit less than that. The Length is 100mm. So the length is the same as the larger Elsinore MFC, but a narrower port is now required to get the tuning frequency low.
The slightly smaller inside diameter of your port would only be a few millimetre difference, so I would still make it 100mm long, so you should have no problem. I don't like making the port much longer than that anyway for either Hamlet or Elsinore.
Crossovers and Parts List for Elsinore models start post #4059
Hamlet Parts List with port details are post #3974
The Crossover Hamlet Parts List repeated here:
You can see that it says 60mm OD - outer diameter PVC pipe, so the inside diameter will be a bit less than that. The Length is 100mm. So the length is the same as the larger Elsinore MFC, but a narrower port is now required to get the tuning frequency low.
The slightly smaller inside diameter of your port would only be a few millimetre difference, so I would still make it 100mm long, so you should have no problem. I don't like making the port much longer than that anyway for either Hamlet or Elsinore.
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Gotit, mea culpa. So you will need to make it a bit longer, in that case, I would make it 110mm long. I honestly don't want to make it longer than it needs to be and 110-120mm would be about max. This is why the 90mm PVC pipe would not work (in the Hamlets) because the port would need to be way too long. Smaller volume needs longer ports to tune the box to the same frequency. But you will be OK.
Alas, there is not and now it is unlikely that it will be. The drivers are indeed very similar, indeed the cone material is the only difference, but they are similar in mass where the NRXC cone is very slightly lighter.
So bottom line: Can the "MFC" version of the Crossover be used with "NRXC" drivers?
I have given this some thought and based on the Crossover differences between the two versions of the Elsinore, moving from NRXC to MFC, the main component difference was L2 and I think the same applies here.
The EQ components R2, R3, R4, L4, L5, C3 and C4 - should be OK. Because the drivers are almost identical electrically.
We need to adjust L2.
Do you have a meter that can measure inductance? I am guestimating we need a target value of 0.27mH, if you can get an inductor that size.
A suggestion: Take a more common value inductor 0.33mH inductor. Start undoing turns whilst reading the inductance. When it gets down to 0.27mH, cut the wire with a short length and then tin the end. This should do it nicely.
I do know that Jantzen makes 0.27mH inductors - so it shouldn't be a problem.
So I would go with that.
So bottom line: Can the "MFC" version of the Crossover be used with "NRXC" drivers?
I have given this some thought and based on the Crossover differences between the two versions of the Elsinore, moving from NRXC to MFC, the main component difference was L2 and I think the same applies here.
The EQ components R2, R3, R4, L4, L5, C3 and C4 - should be OK. Because the drivers are almost identical electrically.
We need to adjust L2.
Do you have a meter that can measure inductance? I am guestimating we need a target value of 0.27mH, if you can get an inductor that size.
A suggestion: Take a more common value inductor 0.33mH inductor. Start undoing turns whilst reading the inductance. When it gets down to 0.27mH, cut the wire with a short length and then tin the end. This should do it nicely.
I do know that Jantzen makes 0.27mH inductors - so it shouldn't be a problem.
So I would go with that.
Ok Joe perfect. I used a port length calculator and that's actually what I had come up with, but I just wasn't sure if I had the internal volume correct and the tuning frequency, I guess I was pretty close.
Now on to the next question.
So, this one I am going to have to live with because it is done, and I cannot see that it matters all that much but that bad boy is glued in and I think I would have to destroy the front panel, and that was the most work out of everything. Instead of cutting a 3" hole for the tweeter stiffening it's basically a little over twice that size, about 5.5" x 6.5". It sucks because the night before I went over everything and I have to convert all this to inches and I had done it that night. But instead of reviewing my notes I cut this one from "memory"...faulty memory albeit.
So my question is does that matter all that much? (Just say no!!!)
Now on to the next question.
So, this one I am going to have to live with because it is done, and I cannot see that it matters all that much but that bad boy is glued in and I think I would have to destroy the front panel, and that was the most work out of everything. Instead of cutting a 3" hole for the tweeter stiffening it's basically a little over twice that size, about 5.5" x 6.5". It sucks because the night before I went over everything and I have to convert all this to inches and I had done it that night. But instead of reviewing my notes I cut this one from "memory"...faulty memory albeit.
So my question is does that matter all that much? (Just say no!!!)
Somebody asked.
I am not sure that there are any mimimum room sizes. My own room is a bit more than 6M wide and 4M deep and listen across the room, not the length of it - which I can't because of doors. The front of my speakers are 1.2M from the rear wall and 2.5M apart, tweeter to tweeter.
Hence mine must be around 80cm behind the box to the rear wall. I am also 2.5M from the speakers, so I do like a near perfect triangle - at least that is what works for my room.
But I have a friend whose room is smaller than that and also has to be closer to the wall. If I was to guess, it would not be more than 4M x 4M, or it might be 4.5M x just under 4M, and that would be about the smallest perhaps. But whatever the room size, play around with positioning as much as that space allows.
I am not sure that there are any mimimum room sizes. My own room is a bit more than 6M wide and 4M deep and listen across the room, not the length of it - which I can't because of doors. The front of my speakers are 1.2M from the rear wall and 2.5M apart, tweeter to tweeter.
Hence mine must be around 80cm behind the box to the rear wall. I am also 2.5M from the speakers, so I do like a near perfect triangle - at least that is what works for my room.
But I have a friend whose room is smaller than that and also has to be closer to the wall. If I was to guess, it would not be more than 4M x 4M, or it might be 4.5M x just under 4M, and that would be about the smallest perhaps. But whatever the room size, play around with positioning as much as that space allows.