The diyAudio Firstwatt F6

Not sure how trustworthy simulation is but after tweaking the circuit I get this:
THD at 1Wrms into 8 Ohms 0.058%

1W%20F6.png

Quite plausible result in real life too.
 
I've had a while to listen to mine at this point and I am very pleased with the results. To me the most impressive aspects would be the amazingly coherent soundstage and simply a pleasant sound, perhaps a result of the abundant 2nd harmonic. I'm sure the transformer plays big role in there as well.. The bass is thick and full while the treble shimmers.

Also I made some distortion measurements. I don't have any professional equipment; I just used my PC along with Arta's audio analysis software. Anyways these were my results at about 25W (14V@8ohms)
 

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If you can measure the space that would be great.

I had a chance to photo them, these are 18.2 mm in diameter, 1000uF 35 volt Elma Silmic:
pretty much fit perfect. looks like your are 50 volt, but diameter appears the same. Just covers the silk layout circle.
 

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I had a chance to photo them, these are 18.2 mm in diameter, 1000uF 35 volt Elma Silmic:
pretty much fit perfect. looks like your are 50 volt, but diameter appears the same. Just covers the silk layout circle.

No problems on that board, but the other board is a different story as you know the 2 boards are different.

As I stated before, if you're trying to use a 18mm cap for C2 on the other board, there isn't enough space between R2 and R10 according to my trusty ole' Starrett calipers.

R10 can easily be relocated on the bottom of the board.
Also, I would shift R2 and R3(before soldering them in place) away from C2 until there is some space between R2 and C2.

Russell, what's up with those "monster" Dale resistors for R11 and R12?🙂
 
No problems on that board, but the other board is a different story as you know the 2 boards are different.

As I stated before, if you're trying to use a 18mm cap for C2 on the other board, there isn't enough space between R2 and R10 according to my trusty ole' Starrett calipers.

R10 can easily be relocated on the bottom of the board.
Also, I would shift R2 and R3(before soldering them in place) away from C2 until there is some space between R2 and C2.

Russell, what's up with those "monster" Dale resistors for R11 and R12?🙂

For the correct value at time of order, that was what was available in Dale, I think they are 1/2 watt, just stood them up soldier style!
Well, semi reclining soldier style.

As to the boards, I was under impression that 2picodumbs was using store board.

Russellc
 
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