Ic 1 and Ri is right,I conected the other pcb and guess what R9 went up in smoke and R8 gets hooot.
Could this be I bought ksa1220 and ksc2690 on ebay?
Mouser stopped sellig them..
Could this be I bought ksa1220 and ksc2690 on ebay?
Mouser stopped sellig them..
The Toshiba A004/C004 have been a perfect substitute for the A1220/C2690 in a few other audio projects, in this application they will work well.
🙂
🙂
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While waiting for the Toshiba A004/C004,Iḿ listening to Milpitas,It was a surprice....
It allmost reaches up to the level of my favorit, BFB (Black forest buffert).
It allmost reaches up to the level of my favorit, BFB (Black forest buffert).
Absolutely! I tried three other modules and put the Milpitas into service and have taken it out in 6 months.
The definition and sound reproduction greatly exceeded my exceptions.
As Mark Johnson said in post #6,753 "You're about to discover what a 200 Megahertz opamp can do."
Enjoy.
Carl
The definition and sound reproduction greatly exceeded my exceptions.
As Mark Johnson said in post #6,753 "You're about to discover what a 200 Megahertz opamp can do."
Enjoy.
Carl
Just something i recently discovered:
DIY RECORDING and especially interesting: their "Colour Format" of small modules that can be many things.
Overall Presentation with YouTube video
Description of PCB dimensions, electrical connection, plastic locking studs
DIY Build of a Module
It feels like this forum.. but for recording equipment.
Most interesting in the light of M2X's many input cards, the connection method!
Hope some may find this interesting
DIY RECORDING and especially interesting: their "Colour Format" of small modules that can be many things.
Overall Presentation with YouTube video
Description of PCB dimensions, electrical connection, plastic locking studs
DIY Build of a Module
It feels like this forum.. but for recording equipment.
Most interesting in the light of M2X's many input cards, the connection method!
Hope some may find this interesting
Attachments
Finally got things fired up today.
Running 2 X 24v MW SMPS. May well eventually shoe horn in the big film caps I previously pictured. Got the rails nicely at pretty much band on 24v +/- 20mV.
I need to perform the blasphemy mod as I can't get below approx neg 200mV offset. Should have followed Mark's build notes from the off!
Starts off 195mV and 220mV. Lowers to 180mV and 207mV.
R13/14 voltages give 1.327, 1.342, 1.327 , 1.338 Amps. Heatsink nicely warm. Measuring about 43C with an IR, at various distances and points. My contact Thermo on my DMM seems to be stubborn to budge from 24C so I don't trust it!
Will remove the boards and do the mods to get the offset sorted.
Chassis is 100pc home brew obviously apart from extrusions. Used these on an Aleph 30 and they got too hot IMHO.! Seem good here.
Not 100pc happy with the power wiring. Found it hard to make tidy. I know I can shorten the mains to the SMPS.
Have since added a fuse holder on the back panel.
I intend this to become a 4 channel amp with 3255 in there for bass duties on an active XO set up. Hence all the gubbins on the back panel!
Running 2 X 24v MW SMPS. May well eventually shoe horn in the big film caps I previously pictured. Got the rails nicely at pretty much band on 24v +/- 20mV.
I need to perform the blasphemy mod as I can't get below approx neg 200mV offset. Should have followed Mark's build notes from the off!
Starts off 195mV and 220mV. Lowers to 180mV and 207mV.
R13/14 voltages give 1.327, 1.342, 1.327 , 1.338 Amps. Heatsink nicely warm. Measuring about 43C with an IR, at various distances and points. My contact Thermo on my DMM seems to be stubborn to budge from 24C so I don't trust it!
Will remove the boards and do the mods to get the offset sorted.
Chassis is 100pc home brew obviously apart from extrusions. Used these on an Aleph 30 and they got too hot IMHO.! Seem good here.
Not 100pc happy with the power wiring. Found it hard to make tidy. I know I can shorten the mains to the SMPS.
Have since added a fuse holder on the back panel.
I intend this to become a 4 channel amp with 3255 in there for bass duties on an active XO set up. Hence all the gubbins on the back panel!
Attachments
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What's the long term plan for securing the SMPS boxes to the amplifier chassis? Will the additional two channels require SMPS repositioning?
Hi Mark. The SMPS are screwed down to the perforated base. As I have it the additional 48v smps for the 3255 monoblocks will sit in between the LRS- 200 24.
So have swapped out the 'top' resistor network for 36k and 20k and now dialled right down to pretty much 0mv after an hour or so of warming up. Will be around 10mV cold.
Playing music just now through Tucson IPS. Source being Rpi, decent PSUs, Allo Kali, into Miro Dac with EUVL IV. Then to Salas DCG3 set to 3x gain.
Very impressive from the off. I'm liking this! Zero hum with the SMPS, quiet as a mouse ear up to tweeter.
All good. Looking forward to trying different IPS, and maybe driving the Edcor straight from the DCG3 given it's very low output impedance.
Thanks Mark, NP et al for making this work for us all.
Playing music just now through Tucson IPS. Source being Rpi, decent PSUs, Allo Kali, into Miro Dac with EUVL IV. Then to Salas DCG3 set to 3x gain.
Very impressive from the off. I'm liking this! Zero hum with the SMPS, quiet as a mouse ear up to tweeter.
All good. Looking forward to trying different IPS, and maybe driving the Edcor straight from the DCG3 given it's very low output impedance.
Thanks Mark, NP et al for making this work for us all.
Have fun with it! The majority of people who tried 3 or more different Input Stage cards, say they definitely have a favorite. One sounds better (to them) than all the others. But several other builders say they hear no differences or no important differences, so they will simply stick with whichever IPS happened to be auditioned last.
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Yes I'm not sure I have a particularly critical definition above a certain 'SQ level', if it's good....it's good kind of thing. But I certainly look forward to the swapping anyway. Some Jacques Loussier Trio on earlier sounded pretty amazing though. Power amp before hand was a JLE PFFB 3255 which I do highly regard, the power seems to drive my DIY speakers well, but the M2X would appear not to struggle in that regard.
Should have Milpitas and Norwood done soon.
And the heatsinks I use , 300mm x 160mm x 50mm fins, 10mm thk base is perfectly adequate despite ambient being 25C or so today in the living room.
Should have Milpitas and Norwood done soon.
And the heatsinks I use , 300mm x 160mm x 50mm fins, 10mm thk base is perfectly adequate despite ambient being 25C or so today in the living room.
Evening all..
I"m currently working on my M2X build and had the opportunity to order some PCB's for this project, as well as a few "cheap0modo" boards from JCLPCB. My wife has recently participating on a Facebook group in the States (Local area) called Buy Nothing.. In the spirit of this group, I have 4 sets of Milpitas boards, and 2 Cheapomodo (different project, tangentially related), which I'd like to send off to whoever may need, or want. Shipping on me. US only (Not sure what it would cost to send out of country).. First come, first served! Please send PM with shipping deets as to not clog up this thread! Cheers all..
I"m currently working on my M2X build and had the opportunity to order some PCB's for this project, as well as a few "cheap0modo" boards from JCLPCB. My wife has recently participating on a Facebook group in the States (Local area) called Buy Nothing.. In the spirit of this group, I have 4 sets of Milpitas boards, and 2 Cheapomodo (different project, tangentially related), which I'd like to send off to whoever may need, or want. Shipping on me. US only (Not sure what it would cost to send out of country).. First come, first served! Please send PM with shipping deets as to not clog up this thread! Cheers all..
Good evening everyone. I am in the construction stage of the M2. Yesterday I received the power supply. Obviously I made a mistake and did not correctly give the details for its production to the manufacturer. I have a 230v input and 18-0-18 on the secondary with a common conductor on the negative. what I want to ask is that, first of all, I cannot use the thermistor Cl 60 and secondly, I don't know if I can give common negative to the zener rectifiers. Any help before I proceed with a new order would be greatly appreciated
So what is it you need? The sticker mention 2x 18v secondaries, which you could wire as 18-0-18v if I am not mistaken anyways.
Might help us if you describe your power supply. Is it a board you already have, or are you using a bridge rectifier and then to a power supply (capacitor bank)?
Need more info on your use case to give you specific instructions or guidance.
Assuming a normal Pass supply set-up - put a CL60 in-line with the Primary load (acts as a soft start), then connect the two red secondary leads to a bridge rectifier (you will have + and - DC coming out of rectifier) and using the black (0) wire, you will have your needed +24, 0,-24V to either go into a power supply board or Capacitor bank - which then you will wire to each amplifier board +/-24Vdc and a "0" Ground reference wire.
Highly suggest you wire this up and test with a DBT and multi-meter before ever connecting to your amps until you are 100% sure you have the right voltages.
@william2001 - put my words into a pretty picture.
Need more info on your use case to give you specific instructions or guidance.
Assuming a normal Pass supply set-up - put a CL60 in-line with the Primary load (acts as a soft start), then connect the two red secondary leads to a bridge rectifier (you will have + and - DC coming out of rectifier) and using the black (0) wire, you will have your needed +24, 0,-24V to either go into a power supply board or Capacitor bank - which then you will wire to each amplifier board +/-24Vdc and a "0" Ground reference wire.
Highly suggest you wire this up and test with a DBT and multi-meter before ever connecting to your amps until you are 100% sure you have the right voltages.
@william2001 - put my words into a pretty picture.