Toyota Part number for the igniter for the ignition system is: 89621-33010
Denso part number is: 131300-1961
And I've already found one and bought one for $35 off ebay second hand. So looks like we will be able to test BOTH theories about either spark or fuel.
Also found a video on how to test toyota igniter modules: YouTube
Denso part number is: 131300-1961
And I've already found one and bought one for $35 off ebay second hand. So looks like we will be able to test BOTH theories about either spark or fuel.
Also found a video on how to test toyota igniter modules: YouTube
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Peugeot 306 S16 🙂 It has a number of things that need doing. Which reminds me I need to call my Mechanic and book it in. Some of the stuff I really don't want to do myself.
I think the bearing on the compressor is going (air-cond doesn't work, possibly the compressor clutch as it holds pressure) main seal on aux belt end of camshaft needs replacing (oil is ending up on the AC Compressor) which is why I think maybe the clutch is slipping.
I bought new track rods and track rod ends which I want to put in, hopefully will fix my uneven tyre wear issue. Also just needs some standard service things like break fluid flush and coolant flush.
The bearing noise is the worry and why I need to book it in, because the other culprit could be tensioner bearings on the cam belt....
The coolant sensor issue was quite the marathon to find full gory details here 😉 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/pe...jerking-fault-code-14-coolant-thermistor.html
My Morris is still sitting in the state it was when I pulled the rear dis placer unit out about 12 months ago. Too many other commitments is not allowing time for progress.
Crappy photo of the car from a couple of years ago attached.
Tony.
I think the bearing on the compressor is going (air-cond doesn't work, possibly the compressor clutch as it holds pressure) main seal on aux belt end of camshaft needs replacing (oil is ending up on the AC Compressor) which is why I think maybe the clutch is slipping.
I bought new track rods and track rod ends which I want to put in, hopefully will fix my uneven tyre wear issue. Also just needs some standard service things like break fluid flush and coolant flush.
The bearing noise is the worry and why I need to book it in, because the other culprit could be tensioner bearings on the cam belt....
The coolant sensor issue was quite the marathon to find full gory details here 😉 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/pe...jerking-fault-code-14-coolant-thermistor.html
My Morris is still sitting in the state it was when I pulled the rear dis placer unit out about 12 months ago. Too many other commitments is not allowing time for progress.
Crappy photo of the car from a couple of years ago attached.
Tony.
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Every single bone of my body hurts like a mofo. anyway it was worth it, got some new brake pads put in the front. Can't afford to go get my brake pads replaced by a pro at the moment and it won't pass an inspection without new pads, got a $866 power bill for the last 3 months + CTP Insurance + pink slip to pay. I'm using really old brake fluid that I've kept on hold to for quite a while.
I was surprised to find that the front brake calipers are twin pots. I guess that explains how its so good at braking, I can brake this thing on a dime from 60-0 on a steep downhill slope without issues. That was a pleasant surprise. Anyway they have some extra meat on them now 🙂
I also went down to Bunnings and bought some high tensile M6 bolts and washers for a couple of ground terminals in the boot of my car for a second dual battery setup, and for an earth for the amplifiers. And for an earth for my RF linear amplifier, yet to buy. I used 100-150 grit wet and dry sandpaper to clean off the paintwork. I'll go over it again with some more sandpaper and then to finish it off I'll spray the area liberally with some spray putty to prevent the connection from corroding, can't complete it just yet due to budget constraints, I can't just go out and buy some more spray putty just like that, especially when it costs $15-$20 per can. Anyway something for me to do in the future.
The bolts were 8.8 tensile strength so I could really torque them down hard. Doubt they will come loose but I am getting some stainless steel plastic lock nuts to replace the current ones on there just in case.
I was surprised to find that the front brake calipers are twin pots. I guess that explains how its so good at braking, I can brake this thing on a dime from 60-0 on a steep downhill slope without issues. That was a pleasant surprise. Anyway they have some extra meat on them now 🙂
I also went down to Bunnings and bought some high tensile M6 bolts and washers for a couple of ground terminals in the boot of my car for a second dual battery setup, and for an earth for the amplifiers. And for an earth for my RF linear amplifier, yet to buy. I used 100-150 grit wet and dry sandpaper to clean off the paintwork. I'll go over it again with some more sandpaper and then to finish it off I'll spray the area liberally with some spray putty to prevent the connection from corroding, can't complete it just yet due to budget constraints, I can't just go out and buy some more spray putty just like that, especially when it costs $15-$20 per can. Anyway something for me to do in the future.
The bolts were 8.8 tensile strength so I could really torque them down hard. Doubt they will come loose but I am getting some stainless steel plastic lock nuts to replace the current ones on there just in case.
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I hear that. I would've gotten my mechanic to do everything on my car but it would've taken three times as long and cost at least 3 grand in labor alone to do what I've done.
Good to know your car is going to get fixed.
Hopefully my mechanic tells me I can get a job with him as a helper around the shop.
Fuel pump still hasn't arrived, everything else has though. should've paid for express postage.
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I aint seen calipers like that before.
Funny how my 'dust seal' post was removed but you post blatently bad advise regarding brake fluid.......
Funny how my 'dust seal' post was removed but you post blatently bad advise regarding brake fluid.......
Your 'dust seal' post was removed? interesting. sorry to hear that. It must've been a mistake. Want to post it again? As long as it doesn't contain any rule breaking stuff it should be fine.
It isn't really advise, its more like whinging, I just have a container of old brake fluid hanging around and had to use it cause I have like $40 in the bank. I shouldn't have bought that RG6, should've left it for another time.
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Well,
the removed post was about manipulating brake caliper dust seals with a lolly-pop stick to check for splits / seizing (should slide cleanly on the piston, if not theres corrosion / piston needs replacing) and noting that the seals Can be replaced if split without removing the caliper from the vehicle...... not a rule breaker as far as I can tell, Nothing to do with replacing the hydraulic seals which I would advise to take to an Auto Eng.
No matter how good a mechanic is, your best of trying to find an Eng to learn from.
the removed post was about manipulating brake caliper dust seals with a lolly-pop stick to check for splits / seizing (should slide cleanly on the piston, if not theres corrosion / piston needs replacing) and noting that the seals Can be replaced if split without removing the caliper from the vehicle...... not a rule breaker as far as I can tell, Nothing to do with replacing the hydraulic seals which I would advise to take to an Auto Eng.
No matter how good a mechanic is, your best of trying to find an Eng to learn from.
Hi sippy, I just checked your post history back to early June and no deleted posts. Oddly I know I posted something to a thread yesterday and it was gone without a trace as well. There may have been a database glitch , or a crash that lost some posts.
Tony.
Tony.
Hi wintermute,
Interesting, there was another post of mine in this thread that both went and came several times, tis a good job all the words I think of as important are on paper not digital....
Interesting, there was another post of mine in this thread that both went and came several times, tis a good job all the words I think of as important are on paper not digital....
That’s good advice, was just going to add something similar to what you’d wrote.
If the pistons are retracted (pushed back into the calipers) to accommodate the new pads, often the residue that is left on the piston, under the dust boot, can cause the pistons to stick in the caliper and allow the brakes to drag, or stay engaged. After a few miles, your new pads will be cooked if this happens. This could also be hazardous in certain driving conditions.
I always clean everything on the outside of the caliper as much as possible, then very carefully get under the dust boot as described. The piston is usually hard chromed and ground, will clean easily using a lint free rag with brake fluid on it, just stay away from the actual seals.
There are aftermarket, high performance calipers that don’t even have dust boots, are not critical, just a best practice for a car driven on the street. I have witnessed many cars that had shredded dust seals, yet drove fine...
Okay what did we learn today.
Driving while in the rain is a good idea if you have a hot catalytic converter.
and
The fuel pump wasn't the problem.
and
It takes about 25 minutes minimum of driving around for the problem to present itself. The under hood temperatures have to rise to a certain point before I start to get problems, never have any problems unless the car is very warm, which really stinks of an electrical problem to me, aka, the igniter.
I pulled into an old petrol station that I used to buy soda as a kid and it started to act up when the revs were at around 700 rpm while I was going across the petrol station car park. never had a problem before that or all the way on the drive down there. Had problems getting it back home. It would have problems when stopped at the lights and when taking off at the lights, specifically low speed stuff.
Hopefully tomorrow all of this will be completely solved and the ignition coil and igniter will be swapped out with a spare known good set and I can go and take it for another drive tomorrow to see if the problem is still there.
Driving while in the rain is a good idea if you have a hot catalytic converter.
and
The fuel pump wasn't the problem.
and
It takes about 25 minutes minimum of driving around for the problem to present itself. The under hood temperatures have to rise to a certain point before I start to get problems, never have any problems unless the car is very warm, which really stinks of an electrical problem to me, aka, the igniter.
I pulled into an old petrol station that I used to buy soda as a kid and it started to act up when the revs were at around 700 rpm while I was going across the petrol station car park. never had a problem before that or all the way on the drive down there. Had problems getting it back home. It would have problems when stopped at the lights and when taking off at the lights, specifically low speed stuff.
Hopefully tomorrow all of this will be completely solved and the ignition coil and igniter will be swapped out with a spare known good set and I can go and take it for another drive tomorrow to see if the problem is still there.
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flipping car won't start at all now after installing the second hand igniter.
Something is seriously wrong with it now as it won't start at all even with the igniter completely unplugged.
I'm fed up with these modern day computerised cars. Too complicated!
Something is seriously wrong with it now as it won't start at all even with the igniter completely unplugged.
I'm fed up with these modern day computerised cars. Too complicated!
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Have you put the old one back in? perhaps the second hand one is a dud.
Definitely sounds like it is a heat related electrical issue. My car has four coils (one on top of each spark plug) if one fails it does so when the car is up to temp. Let it cool down and it will run fine again until it is up to temp. It's a hard fault in that it only runs on 3 cylinders when it happens, no hesitation, just stops firing all together on that cylinder.
Tony.
Definitely sounds like it is a heat related electrical issue. My car has four coils (one on top of each spark plug) if one fails it does so when the car is up to temp. Let it cool down and it will run fine again until it is up to temp. It's a hard fault in that it only runs on 3 cylinders when it happens, no hesitation, just stops firing all together on that cylinder.
Tony.
Damn immobilizers!
It works, it was just the immobilizer preventing the car from starting. I drove it around for an hour and 10 minutes to be sure and it never once started to misfire... It was the igniter/ignition coil after all. Hooray!
Now it will accelerate great but it has a lumpy idle, BUT most importantly the idle is solid and it doesn't feel like its about to die. But I'm sure that is something that I can fix rather easily. I was going to put my ignition test tool on each cylinder but I couldn't find it.
No matter. At least it no longer misfires and dies 🙂
It works, it was just the immobilizer preventing the car from starting. I drove it around for an hour and 10 minutes to be sure and it never once started to misfire... It was the igniter/ignition coil after all. Hooray!
Now it will accelerate great but it has a lumpy idle, BUT most importantly the idle is solid and it doesn't feel like its about to die. But I'm sure that is something that I can fix rather easily. I was going to put my ignition test tool on each cylinder but I couldn't find it.
No matter. At least it no longer misfires and dies 🙂
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Good news! Check if there is a reset procedure for the IAC valve. It may help with rough idle.
Also a reset of the ECU probably wouldn't hurt. Mine you just need to disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour and it will reset to factory settings. It learns after that, and if it has learned with the faulty igniter it may not be running optimally with the new one, check your manual as to whether yours is a fixed or learning type.
Tony.
Also a reset of the ECU probably wouldn't hurt. Mine you just need to disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour and it will reset to factory settings. It learns after that, and if it has learned with the faulty igniter it may not be running optimally with the new one, check your manual as to whether yours is a fixed or learning type.
Tony.
Went to go and start it this morning (to go and get some coffee) and "the cursed 90s japanese turd" started acting up immediately after turning the key and throwing expensive fuel out the tailpipe just like it was doing so before all of this started.
So holding back my temper I swapped the new AFM in. No change.
So I'm back to square one. and I drove the cursed 90s japanese turd over to my mechanics, I'm going to get a $1200 loan from centerlink to pay for the power bill (My share of it is $400, total is $866) and CTP ($350 for Compulsory Third Party) and pay the mechanic to hunt down the problem for me.
I've had enough of it. On monday I'll give him a printout of everything that has been done to the car so far and where my diagnostic direction has gone.
So holding back my temper I swapped the new AFM in. No change.
So I'm back to square one. and I drove the cursed 90s japanese turd over to my mechanics, I'm going to get a $1200 loan from centerlink to pay for the power bill (My share of it is $400, total is $866) and CTP ($350 for Compulsory Third Party) and pay the mechanic to hunt down the problem for me.
I've had enough of it. On monday I'll give him a printout of everything that has been done to the car so far and where my diagnostic direction has gone.
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The one thing which we've failed to check on this entire car is the EGR system.
And according to the service manual a faulty EGR system can cause all of the symptoms that I'm having.
If it turns out to be a faulty EGR valve I'm going to rip the thing out like in indiana jones like how that guy rips that girls beating heart out.
Only problem is its disconnected. The EGR valve itself is connected to the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold but the vacuum solenoid is disconnected from the intake manifold, so it cannot engage. So I've never considered it a problem.
I think the final problem will end up being a vacuum leak. I will get the car passed for a rego check and drive it back home and do the diagnostic work myself, might get my mechanic to spray some starter fluid over the intake to see where the leak is. That will take the financial and time constraint stress off of me.
What I've learned from scannerdanner on youtube is that an intake manifold vacuum leak can wait for the engine to heat up before it starts to open.
And according to the service manual a faulty EGR system can cause all of the symptoms that I'm having.
If it turns out to be a faulty EGR valve I'm going to rip the thing out like in indiana jones like how that guy rips that girls beating heart out.
Only problem is its disconnected. The EGR valve itself is connected to the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold but the vacuum solenoid is disconnected from the intake manifold, so it cannot engage. So I've never considered it a problem.
I think the final problem will end up being a vacuum leak. I will get the car passed for a rego check and drive it back home and do the diagnostic work myself, might get my mechanic to spray some starter fluid over the intake to see where the leak is. That will take the financial and time constraint stress off of me.
What I've learned from scannerdanner on youtube is that an intake manifold vacuum leak can wait for the engine to heat up before it starts to open.
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I might return the EGR system back to its operational state once I get this loan in my account and replace parts and go over it again. No point in deleting it or disconnecting it. But it really makes you wonder just how much unburnt fuel has entered the atmosphere, at least 80 liters of fuel, while I was trying to track down and solve this problem, and that unburnt fuel is directly caused by a malfunctioning emissions system.
Makes you wonder if the emissions control systems on cars do more harm than good in downtime and periods of malfunctioning and cost to the consumer which eventually results in more labor costs and more work needing to be done to make the money to pay the mechanic to fix these malfunctioning emissions systems when they stop working.
Makes you wonder if the emissions control systems on cars do more harm than good in downtime and periods of malfunctioning and cost to the consumer which eventually results in more labor costs and more work needing to be done to make the money to pay the mechanic to fix these malfunctioning emissions systems when they stop working.
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