I usually just test for fuel pressure a few times to look for a consistent max pressure, then see if that is what the spec is for that car. No need to remove the pump, but sometimes some adapting is needed to get a gauge in place.
No new trouble codes since the last reset?
No new trouble codes since the last reset?
Not if the commutator is clogged up with old brush material.
I trusted it to measure other devices on the car and it measured accurately down to 0.3 ohms on the ignition coil.
Nope. See pics in link: The car thread
Wintermute was kind of thinking about it. I bet if I had kept on going testing stuff that Wintermute would've had me put the old fuel pump back in the tank and pretend like its not got 356,000km on it and 21 years of use.
Even if I had bought a fuel pressure testing tool it would've said that the pump is still perfectly fine because its still producing pressure but I don't know what the condition the brushes are in, but I do know that they have 21 years of use on them. I highly doubt that it has ever been replaced before.
The reason why I say that the fuel pressure testing tool would've been useless is because this is an intermittent fault, either the pump intermittently stops pumping when I'm out driving OR the booster hose for the IAC solenoid is coming loose intermittently. Or there is a wiring fault somewhere.
But either today or tomorrow I'm going to go down and do tests on the wiring to see if we haven't got a problem there.
I rang Toyota last week actually.
😱!
I heard from Scotty Kilmer that its a $1,000 job to replace a fuel pump on a V6 jaguar cause you have to drop the fuel tank and the rear suspension and the wheels off the rear of the chassis to get to the fuel pump. Is that true?
I just have to pull up on the rear seat (its clipped down) and undo 16 screws.😎
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I think they made the Marshall Batteries logo into a wuss when it was sold to Exide from Pacific Dunlop who bought the company from its Australian owners.
Thankfully I think I can safely say that "Marshall Power Australia", who is the current owner of Marshall Batteries is Australian owned. I'll email them though.
So my next battery will probably be a Marshall I think.
Thankfully I think I can safely say that "Marshall Power Australia", who is the current owner of Marshall Batteries is Australian owned. I'll email them though.
So my next battery will probably be a Marshall I think.
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The dumb blonde one has been known to use a set of air conditioner gauges. One of the fittings just happen to match the test port on my fuel rail. I then removed the hood from the car and duck taped the AC gauge to the hood bracket where it could be seen from the passenger seat. We fired up the car and went for a ride. This test confirmed a suspected fault condition. The Volkswagen pump that I used when I first built the car could not meet the fuel demands of the new turbo engine causing me to run lean at high RPM under boost. This resulted in my first (of many) blown head gaskets. This led to the Shelby recommended fuel pump.
I then flushed the AC gauge with denatured alcohol and pumped it down with the AC vacuum pump before using it on AC systems again. Note that this was years ago when all car AC systems ran R-12 Freon. The new R-134 fittings are different.
nice I would've never thought that it would cause a blown head gasket but now I can see it happening if it pinged/detonated.
I ended up buying a Bosch fuel pump off ebay for $56.66 AU Dineros.
Genuine BOSCH Main Inline Fuel Pump 0986580979 universal EFP007 | eBay
And some Bosch brake pads so I can pass a pink slip inspection for $39.96 AU Dineros (with a coupon)
Bosch Brake Pad Set Front Blue Line DB1209BL 4047024882324 | eBay
Now I wait for them to arrive.
I can't answer that, but I doubt it. I have the V12 car and a newer V8 car. The fuel sender on the latter was a little slower than I like, so it was replaced under warranty. It didn't take them very long, so maybe the seat can be pulled on that car to get access. I bought the car new in 2004 or 2005, and I've never had to work on it, so I really don't know that much about it. It's only ever needed two repairs - the aforementioned lazy fuel sender, and a rattly seat belt tensioner, both warranty items.
I've lost a lot of blood over the V12 one, so intimately familiar with it, and the earlier inline six cars ( had two of them - really easy to work on ).
Win W5JAG
At one point with my Soarer, there was a pin near the ecu that had backed out of the connector, was causing an intermittent failure.
That was a real pain in the rear to diagnose.
That was a real pain in the rear to diagnose.
^ That's what happened to my coolant sensor plug. The pin worked it's way back and was making intermittent contact. Took me ages to track down the fault. It didn't help that I hadn't realized that there were two coolant sensors (actually three, if you count the one for the temp gauge). I replaced the one that controls the fans, but was still getting coolant sensor faults. I didn't realise that there was a separate one (completely inaccessible) for the ECU!
Tony.
Tony.
Went to Bursons and explained to him that I bought a cheaper fuel pump off ebay for $55 instead of the $200 one he was offering. Was kind and curteous about it and I bought some water hose off of him instead to replace the IAC solenoid vacuum booster hose and two hose clamps. He recommended that I soak the hose in a bucket of hot water.
Now I can not worry about the IAC booster hose being cracked and vulcanized because after soaking it in a bucket of hot water and it slipped on there like it was nobody's buisness. Two new clamps in place and its all done and over with.
This wind and rain is getting a bit much for my mood. Hopefully it clears up when the fuel pump arrives, I don't like test driving cars when its raining. Not so much for me but for my poor mum who would have to come and rescue me if I become stranded.
Now I can not worry about the IAC booster hose being cracked and vulcanized because after soaking it in a bucket of hot water and it slipped on there like it was nobody's buisness. Two new clamps in place and its all done and over with.
This wind and rain is getting a bit much for my mood. Hopefully it clears up when the fuel pump arrives, I don't like test driving cars when its raining. Not so much for me but for my poor mum who would have to come and rescue me if I become stranded.
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Run a turbo lean and it will ping itself to death. It wasn't pinging enough to be heard, or set the crude 1984 vintage knock sensor off.
Also bought 25m of RG58 made by Altronics: RG58 CU MIL SPEC 50 OHM COAX UHF CB AMATEUR COMMUNICATION SCANNER CABLE 25M LOT | eBay
This is for the 4x RCA cables going to the boot for the sub/2 front channels and two Pioneer amplifiers (GM-A6704 in 2 channel Bridged mode (2x 190w RMS) for the 2x Subwoofers + GM-A3702 2 channel amplifier 2x60w RMS for the two 6.5" Pioneer TS-D1602R speakers in the front doors.).
Also might have some left over for an antenna mount in the boot where the original car antenna goes for 2/70cm HAM + 477MHz UHF CB.
This is for the 4x RCA cables going to the boot for the sub/2 front channels and two Pioneer amplifiers (GM-A6704 in 2 channel Bridged mode (2x 190w RMS) for the 2x Subwoofers + GM-A3702 2 channel amplifier 2x60w RMS for the two 6.5" Pioneer TS-D1602R speakers in the front doors.).
Also might have some left over for an antenna mount in the boot where the original car antenna goes for 2/70cm HAM + 477MHz UHF CB.
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So today I found out the meaning of "Vienta". its the informal version of "ventar" in spanish for "to blow".....
vienta - Wiktionary
ventar - Wiktionary
And my car is the "Vienta Grande" So it "blows big time".
bahaha. I might have to change the tailgate at some point and get a camry one.
vienta - Wiktionary
ventar - Wiktionary
And my car is the "Vienta Grande" So it "blows big time".
bahaha. I might have to change the tailgate at some point and get a camry one.
I've heard that a faulty speed sensor will cause stalling in some cars because the computer uses the speed sensor to feed information to the idle speed controller ISC solenoid.
Might be worthwhile to do a test on it for shorts, can't do much else unless I run some test leads from the speed sensor into the car to hook up to my multimeter.
Its either that or the distributor. But I can test that according to the service manual with a multimeter, its just 3 coils.
Its those things, or the fuel pump at fault, or an intermittent failure in a wiring harness somewhere. Or the cracked ISC booster hose that I've fixed.
I think the first thing I should do is revisit the wiring harness going to the speed sensor. Because I think I remember popping it off and cleaning it, there might be some liquid in there shorting something out and I wouldn't straight away notice the speedo dropping if the car starts to misfire and slow down.
I might be able to buy or make my own spark gap testing tool to test the ignition coil with and measure its voltage by measuring the distance between one terminal and another.
But I'm fairly sure that its intermittent fuel pressure or flow problems. Could just as easily be the ISC too. That is going based on the symptoms.
All I know for sure is that rego is due on the 10th of next month so I'd better get busy.
Might be worthwhile to do a test on it for shorts, can't do much else unless I run some test leads from the speed sensor into the car to hook up to my multimeter.
Its either that or the distributor. But I can test that according to the service manual with a multimeter, its just 3 coils.
Its those things, or the fuel pump at fault, or an intermittent failure in a wiring harness somewhere. Or the cracked ISC booster hose that I've fixed.
I think the first thing I should do is revisit the wiring harness going to the speed sensor. Because I think I remember popping it off and cleaning it, there might be some liquid in there shorting something out and I wouldn't straight away notice the speedo dropping if the car starts to misfire and slow down.
I might be able to buy or make my own spark gap testing tool to test the ignition coil with and measure its voltage by measuring the distance between one terminal and another.
But I'm fairly sure that its intermittent fuel pressure or flow problems. Could just as easily be the ISC too. That is going based on the symptoms.
All I know for sure is that rego is due on the 10th of next month so I'd better get busy.
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I'm pointing towards the igniter at this point. YouTube
But lets take the fuel pump out of the equation seeing as it needs replacing anyway its worth taking it out of the game. Then I'll go take it for another test drive.
if it still intermittently misfires and feels like its gonna die I'll clean the earth connection on the igniter box and around the ignition coil then go take it for another drive.
But lets take the fuel pump out of the equation seeing as it needs replacing anyway its worth taking it out of the game. Then I'll go take it for another test drive.
if it still intermittently misfires and feels like its gonna die I'll clean the earth connection on the igniter box and around the ignition coil then go take it for another drive.
What would be nice is to have a functioning car of the same type available to measure and even swap a part if needed.
When I did a late model engine swap, I was very lucky to have the occupant of the downstairs apartment who owned the same car as my engine had been from. I only had to resort to asking once to remove a connector and take a reading, but it was priceless at the time.
When I did a late model engine swap, I was very lucky to have the occupant of the downstairs apartment who owned the same car as my engine had been from. I only had to resort to asking once to remove a connector and take a reading, but it was priceless at the time.
Eureka!
Insufficient contact pressure (due to old age/wear) on the commutator from the brush springs being worn out and excessive communtator/brushes wear is my diagnosis.
I cut apart the fuel pump and destroyed it in the process (RIP) however it revealed that insufficient pressure on the commutator/brushes assembly could be what is causing my intermittent misfire/stall problem. When I had the commutator and brush assembly apart in my hands I could vary the resistance measured on my DMM from 1.4 to 2.9 ohms by simply varying the height at which the brushes sit on top of the commutator. If the factory specifications state that the lowest reading on the fuel pump is 0.2 ohms and the lowest reading that I can get when pushing down on the brushes is 1.4 ohms then we more than likely have a problem.
Insufficient contact pressure (due to old age/wear) on the commutator from the brush springs being worn out and excessive communtator/brushes wear is my diagnosis.
I cut apart the fuel pump and destroyed it in the process (RIP) however it revealed that insufficient pressure on the commutator/brushes assembly could be what is causing my intermittent misfire/stall problem. When I had the commutator and brush assembly apart in my hands I could vary the resistance measured on my DMM from 1.4 to 2.9 ohms by simply varying the height at which the brushes sit on top of the commutator. If the factory specifications state that the lowest reading on the fuel pump is 0.2 ohms and the lowest reading that I can get when pushing down on the brushes is 1.4 ohms then we more than likely have a problem.
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Are you using a "Low Ohms meter"? We have a special four wire probe meter at work for taking such measurements. It makes a difference. Standard multimeters are incapable of making such measurements.
I'm using an Autool DM202 multimeter which is very accurate. Measures down to 0.1 ohms with accuracy, that is without jumping about.
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