It is pretty useful stuff. Makes anything you are covering with immediatley EMP proof too due to the aluminum layers. Which means that if I cover over the opening between the boot and the rear seats that I will have an EMP proof boot. And one which is very rigid against soundwaves coming from the rear subwoofers, so it will significantly enhance bass performance.
Anyway, I had to get a new jigsaw, the old one was 15 years old and on its last legs. Got a Ryobi ONE+ Cordless jigsaw for $99, ended up eating a bit into my food budget to get it. But it was necessary to cut the aluminum composite material accurately. I gave away all of my old corded tools to a family friend, I'm dedicated to the ONE+ system fully now.
I did a really good job of it, used a black marker on the plastic protective coating on the black side of the aluminum composite material and I managed to use the old carpet out of the boot of the car to cut a really accurate piece of aluminum composite material that fit into the boot like a glove.
Soon as I finished cutting it and put it into the boot it started to **** down rain really heavily. So that stopped work on the car dead in its tracks. So heavy that my jacket got soaking wet, I could've filled a mug with water in about a minute with that rain. And yes the boot got soaking wet just being open for 15 seconds before I could clear up the tools and close it.
So yeah... this material is going to be great in the boot with all of the water that floods in there whenever I lift the boot lid it always builds up in the rear plastic reflector and pours into the boot whenever its opened up.
The million dollar question now is how do I remount the battery box so that it looks nice in the boot and not make a total mess of the nice looking aluminum composite material.
Anyway, I had to get a new jigsaw, the old one was 15 years old and on its last legs. Got a Ryobi ONE+ Cordless jigsaw for $99, ended up eating a bit into my food budget to get it. But it was necessary to cut the aluminum composite material accurately. I gave away all of my old corded tools to a family friend, I'm dedicated to the ONE+ system fully now.
I did a really good job of it, used a black marker on the plastic protective coating on the black side of the aluminum composite material and I managed to use the old carpet out of the boot of the car to cut a really accurate piece of aluminum composite material that fit into the boot like a glove.
Soon as I finished cutting it and put it into the boot it started to **** down rain really heavily. So that stopped work on the car dead in its tracks. So heavy that my jacket got soaking wet, I could've filled a mug with water in about a minute with that rain. And yes the boot got soaking wet just being open for 15 seconds before I could clear up the tools and close it.
So yeah... this material is going to be great in the boot with all of the water that floods in there whenever I lift the boot lid it always builds up in the rear plastic reflector and pours into the boot whenever its opened up.
The million dollar question now is how do I remount the battery box so that it looks nice in the boot and not make a total mess of the nice looking aluminum composite material.
Last edited:
I believe that was added to most cars when the engine power level became high enough to overcome the brakes no matter how hard you stood on the brake pedal. It was also used to prevent idiots from going sideways at stop lights by using the old powerbrake launch method (stomp both pedals, release brake when light turns green).
My 1999 6 cylinder Mustang would spin and smoke the right rear wheel when you stomped both pedals hard. My boss had a new V8 Mustang (2012 maybe) that was much faster than mine, but wouldn't smoke the tires no matter what he tried. The computer would just keep the engine at about 1500 RPM until the brake was released, then launch the car forward at maximum acceleration without wheelspin. For anyone except a professional drag racer or a really wimpy car, this is the fastest launch method. Spinning tires just wastes power.
and when the brake switch becomes faulty due to age or planned obsolescence (lack of reinforcing on the fancy little plastic switch) it means your car goes nowhere and you won't notice that the tail lights are stuck on permanently or intermittently and you'll wonder why the **** your car is staying below 1500 rpm.
In remote areas Overengineering can be dangerous. Especially if the driver hasn't got a LCD display to give him an error message and tell him what is wrong so that he can do some emergency roadside repairs. No error message or a vague error message that requires an OBD scanner or a dealer to tell you what is wrong and he could conceivably abandon the car because he doesn't want to damage the car any further. Which can lead to him dying if he/she is stuck in the middle of nowhere 500km from the nearest life.
Car is running badly.
Car won't go past 1500 rpm.
CEL displaying.
Driver assumes its in limp home mode.
Driver doesn't want to damage the car so he stops and abandons the car.
Driver gets lost and dies.
That is also why they tell you to stay on the main road and stay with your car.
In remote areas Overengineering can be dangerous. Especially if the driver hasn't got a LCD display to give him an error message and tell him what is wrong so that he can do some emergency roadside repairs. No error message or a vague error message that requires an OBD scanner or a dealer to tell you what is wrong and he could conceivably abandon the car because he doesn't want to damage the car any further. Which can lead to him dying if he/she is stuck in the middle of nowhere 500km from the nearest life.
Car is running badly.
Car won't go past 1500 rpm.
CEL displaying.
Driver assumes its in limp home mode.
Driver doesn't want to damage the car so he stops and abandons the car.
Driver gets lost and dies.
That is also why they tell you to stay on the main road and stay with your car.
Last edited:
Your car will go nowhere because the brain will not let the car move out of "PARK" on an automatic transmission equipped car in the USA. Rules were implemented years ago due to people accidentally dropping it in drive with their foot on the gas instead of the brake. All cars would not let you move the gear selector unless the brake was depressed. This used to be a mechanical interlock. It is now an electronic action or both.
My 2008 Honda Element was one of the early generations of "drive by wire." When the brain detects wheel slippage it instantly cuts power and there is a time lag before the power returns. Pulling out of our dirt road on to the main road requires some quick thinking since there is limited visibility in both directions. Often there are large trucks coming around one of the bends well above the posted speed limit. Having the power cut just as you pull out in front of a loaded dump truck doing 50+ MPH is NOT a valid response to launching a stopped car in dirt. I have learned to drive with the traction / stability system turned off and ignore that flashing yellow triangle on the dash.
Unfortunately the stability system re-defaults to ON on every start and I can not reach the disable button without opening the car door. The button has no effect until the engine is running. Not fun in rain or snow.
Even with the system disabled it will restrict the fun in total slippage. This action came with the reflash which occurred with the airbag recall. It was actually a listed Honda recall to reflash for "driveability improvements." The reason given was to prevent transaxle damage from sudden traction changes. It also removed the ability to shift from drive to reverse to drive with any power applied. This was a means to free a stuck vehicle, but it broke transaxles, so Honda removed that possibility. Attempting to change gears will force the engine to idle. It rarely intrudes in the case of minor wheelspin that occurs on wet or muddy roads.
Last edited:
That is just dumb, but I can understand the safety concerns involved but they should've left it as a mechanical interlock. So... I can stop a US car from moving anywhere simply by cutting the wires going to the brake switch, nice. So if the brake switch is broken (due to emergency braking, likely) and I'm stuck in a ditch I can't even take it out of park let alone get the revs above 1500 rpm to get a car out of the ditch.
Even if the mechanical interlock was made from plastic it would be preferable than a switch and solenoid approach with an ECU in between.
Gears Magazine | Faulty Brake Light Switch Has Transmission Shifting In and Out of Gear While Stopped
Hyundai Cars Are Recalled Over Faulty Brake Switch - The New York Times
Oh nice...
I'm disliking modern cars more and more.
I believe strongly in the laws of physical motion and the ability of a vehicle to process fuel and combust it in an efficient manner with only the laws of physical motion involved, not software written by a government entity or corporation 15,000km away.
If a UFO were to abduct me they could simply interrupt the electrical current going to and from my fuel injectors/ECU and disable my vehicle, I don't like that idea at all.
If a warrior from ancient times had a sword that had to do a DPF clean in the middle of an important battle I'm 100% sure that he or she would've slain the engineer behind that paticular design.
Last edited:
Quite a few subarus are around on the streets at the moment. I see them all the time. But beware that no car is safe to go hooning in:
NBN News | YOUNG MAN DIES FOLLOWING HUNTER CRASH
NBN News | HIGH SPEED CRASH AT CHARLESTOWN
One story for Tubelab: NBN News | ICONIC COLLECTION OF SURFING IMAGES GOES ON SHOW
If you scroll down there is a video.
NBN News | YOUNG MAN DIES FOLLOWING HUNTER CRASH
NBN News | HIGH SPEED CRASH AT CHARLESTOWN
One story for Tubelab: NBN News | ICONIC COLLECTION OF SURFING IMAGES GOES ON SHOW
If you scroll down there is a video.
Last edited:
I thought this was incredibly useful:
DABDUINO - DAB/DAB+/FM Arduino shield | Hackaday.io
DABDUINO is DAB/DAB+/FM Arduino shield with 32-bit, 384kHz PCM DAC (cinch) + SPDIF/Toslink optical digital audio output
DABDUINO - DAB/DAB+/FM Arduino shield | Hackaday.io
DABDUINO is DAB/DAB+/FM Arduino shield with 32-bit, 384kHz PCM DAC (cinch) + SPDIF/Toslink optical digital audio output
wow: Speeduino | Hackaday.io
Overview - Speeduino
A complete EMS/ECU replacement using an Arduino Mega!
Overview - Speeduino
A complete EMS/ECU replacement using an Arduino Mega!
Attachments
Last edited:
Well my car is a manual, so if I feel the need to spin tires, there’s no stopping me.
Those features will never likely be utilized by me anyways.
One nice benefit of the reflash of the ecu, is that the ignition timing has been advanced it appears, car has a nice rap to it in lower gears, much more torque in higher gears.
I did some looking, and this was done to mitigate some of the ill effects to the piston rings caused by late timing. The lean burn, and late timing may have been good for emissions, however the known issue has been partially dealt with in response to a class action lawsuit.
I had taken care of it with unconventional methods, along with short oil change intervals.
Stay dry there!
Those features will never likely be utilized by me anyways.
One nice benefit of the reflash of the ecu, is that the ignition timing has been advanced it appears, car has a nice rap to it in lower gears, much more torque in higher gears.
I did some looking, and this was done to mitigate some of the ill effects to the piston rings caused by late timing. The lean burn, and late timing may have been good for emissions, however the known issue has been partially dealt with in response to a class action lawsuit.
I had taken care of it with unconventional methods, along with short oil change intervals.
Stay dry there!
Obviously spinning tyres is no good, its a loss of traction and a loss of traction is a loss of power delivery to the ground and therefore forward motion and its really bad for fuel economy, 0km/inf L. No doubt that 'feature' of being unable to drop it in drive is added to prevent damage to the transmission. But....
Only problem I can see is trying to get out of a ditch by rocking the car. That and the ability of the car to do hill starts. I know that there is one notorious hill around here which has a set of street lights on it and it is merging into a large 4 lane intersection. Basically If you don't have the ability to apply power while you have your foot on the brakes you aren't getting up that hill even if you have an automatic because the cars behind you will come right up to the back of your car and sit there like they are expecting you to not roll backwards.
So basically your car is going to get stuck in any muddy or rocky or sandy surface and you won't be able to get out of it, you'll just have to abandon the car and walk away from it and catch a taxi. I wonder how well this goes with snow too? I guess time will tell if its a half baked idea or not.
And there is a delay of when you apply your foot to the accelerator to when fluid builds up motion in the torque converter and when that power is applied to the wheels.
But then again some people around here are stupid like that. They are always too close together at the lights, thats fine I guess on the flat because there isn't much room anyway and there are tons of cars on the road since the last GFC and all the Sydney siders moved here and took everything for themselves. But they don't remember that when you are on a hill that you need to give some room for the car in front of you to roll backwards.
I can't imagine that situation being easy for you, especially in a manual as you say. If you ask me they just introduced more bugs into the code.
Nice to hear that.
I know that on my car the ignition timing should be set to 10deg and in the MR2 forums you can adjust the timing to get 200hp by going I think it is (don't quote me) to 14 deg. reason for this is because the 3VZ-FE when they first came out with it it was specced at 185 hp but as time went on they advanced the ignition to give it 200hp. They also did something to the clockspring in the AFM. But I don't want to fiddle with mine until I can get an AFR meter hooked up to the engine, and that is expensive so I haven't done it yet. Would be awesome for fuel economy to advance the timing and lean out the AFR.
One thing I did do was take the car for a drive around the residential streets near me and I can tell you that not having that battery on the front tyres is like a dream come true. The steering is lighter and I feel more confident now in making sharper arcs when at intersections because I can move the steering wheel easier and therefore further to the left or to the right. It has made driving it a lot more comfortable. Temporarily not having an airbox on the AFM also made the car more perky and torqueier down low.
I have been investigating options for an enclosed pod filter (legal here) and making myself up a 3" cold air intake.
I also noticed that the "get up and go" or initial torque and lightness of the entire car is much more improved. It feels like a fly now when I drove it up and down my street.
Unfortunatley my 150 amp circuit breakers still haven't arrived from HK and I have yet to come up with a method of mounting the positive M6 and M8 bolts for the 35mmSQ cabling underneath the boot. so I'm not going to be driving it much until the circuit breakers are installed. I don't have any fuel money anyway, lol.
Funny how an advanced timing can improve emissions but also increase NOx emissions because of the higher temperatures. I would imagine that they would also add more EGR to compensate for those higher temps. Question is, Do you/have you had any problems with clogging up the EGR system on your car?
Thank you!
Its more keeping warm than anything at the moment as the temps have dropped quite a bit. 17c inside, goodness knows what it is like outside, we had some fairly strong winds about a week ago but its since died down, the sun hasn't been out much since yesterday when we had a change in the weather but last week it was very sunny.
Not being able to get underneath the car and patch up those holes that I made because the cement carport is soaked has made me a bit grumpy indeed, all I can do is sit inside and read up on arduino projects and get even grumpier while I wait for stuff to arrive from eBay. So for right now I have nothing to do.
Attachments
Last edited:
Log into Facebook | Facebook
^ Old motor racing photographs Australia facebook group.
Below in the first pic is the Lycoming Special on an oil sealed dirt track at Tarrawingee.
Check out that camber setting.
^ Old motor racing photographs Australia facebook group.
Below in the first pic is the Lycoming Special on an oil sealed dirt track at Tarrawingee.
Check out that camber setting.
Attachments
Last edited:
Attribution for the Celica photos: National Automobile Museum of Tasmania - Home | Facebook
A quote from him that I had to learn the hard way. "I was never an idiot out in the water so why start now."
My surfing career ended early and rather abruptly around age 17 when I fell off the board, cracking my head on the board of another surfer knocking myself out before falling into the surf. Fortunately a third surfer dragged me out of the water and up on to the beach.
I haven't been on a surfboard since then, but I did get a 14 foot Hobie Cat around age 22. I had it for over 10 years and took if to the beach several times a week. At the time I worked the evening shift from 4PM until midnight. I hit the beach at 9:30 and left just in time to get to work. I had a friend who lived near the beach who would call me whenever there was a strong wind, and of course I went to the beach whenever there was a storm or small craft warning. "Flying" the boat on one hull like in this picture was a daily event if there was enough wind.
We now live in serious hill country. My Element lets me feed the throttle enough juice to keep it from rolling backwards at a red light with my foot on the brake. It will not let me feed it enough to overcome the brake like the Mustang would. Too much throttle with a foot on the brake is bad because the right front wheel will spin when you let your foot off the brake if the road is wet. It took a bit of time before my brain learned these things after living and driving in flat land for 40+ years. The highest elevation in the part of Florida where I lived for 62 years is 14 feet above sea level. My house was at 6 feet. Does it flood there? UH, yeah......but the mail gets delivered! I lived in the white house with the red minivan.
Attachments
RIP Bob Jane: Bob Jane dead at 88: Family confirms racing legend’s death
Bob Jane Racing Heritage - Photo Collection - Page 10
Bob Jane Racing Heritage - Photo Collection - Page 10
Attachments
Last edited:
Those changes don’t effect the operation at speeds below 10mph., so I’m still ok at least at low speed in the snow and on some of the hills. I haven’t tested it to determine whether that 10mph. is sampled from the front (drive) wheels or the rear.
Glad to hear that moving the battery has had a nice result. One thing I did on my Tercel was to replace the bushings on the sway bar, helped the feel a bit by having that tighter.
Makes me want to look at a battery move in my Corolla now.
The silly (fun) things we do in our youth! Sucks about your surfing accident, we had some minimalist sailboats called “lasers” here I remember, but haven’t seen them lately. Were a lot of fun.
I love the Celica pictures, that thing is a beast, haven’t seen anything quite like that for competitions anyways.
Glad to hear that moving the battery has had a nice result. One thing I did on my Tercel was to replace the bushings on the sway bar, helped the feel a bit by having that tighter.
Makes me want to look at a battery move in my Corolla now.
The silly (fun) things we do in our youth! Sucks about your surfing accident, we had some minimalist sailboats called “lasers” here I remember, but haven’t seen them lately. Were a lot of fun.
I love the Celica pictures, that thing is a beast, haven’t seen anything quite like that for competitions anyways.