The HP10w drivers do not seem to be discontinued. There are 50 in stock in the Uk. P-Audio IMF-HP-10W - 10" 100W 8 Ohm Original version of the HP10W used in the fantastically popular Boominator
As for the S2010 drivers require an active cross over from memory. Look for the Boominator Digest I published a while back it has info on the specifics. If the link doesn’t work let me know and I will look for the document.
Had my first audio test the other day on my new built Boominator - seems that cabling, crossover etc all worked out finebut still need tweaking, installation of the stuff inside the electronics compartment (including GPS, light controller, solar charge module...) and finish/paint job...
Bought a bunch of AliExpress amps just to see how each model performs
Tests with my TDA7498E running at 24volt plays well and has around 250ma draw. seems to cause some kind of distortion when trying to push it a bit (measuring ~106dB@1m using an iphone app...) maybe it’s a clipping issue...yeah I know I’m a noob
Any suggestions on what to try out here? Would it be a safe idea to crank up the voltage to 32volt as reducing the gain did not seem to fix the issue?
High Power Digital Amplifier Board 160W+160W Dual Channel Audio Stereo Power Amplifier Board Module TDA7498E -in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Will need to test if the same issue occurs on the other amps - e.g. this one
Aiyima TPA3116 Bluetooth 4.2 Digital Amplifier Board 50W*2 Dual Channel 2.0 Audio Amplificador With Volume Adjustment DC12 24V-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
And then I might also end up buying a maxamp20 just for the reference to the “standard design” to be able to compare volume and sound. I’m just thinking that anno 2019 should have brought other options to the table in a 24v setup that performs just as well (except for power consumption naturally) Any suggestions here would be very much appreciated.
@frank4570: I would actually recommend browsing through the first many pages and from there narrow in on the specific topics as you go along...I’m still a noob here so can’t be very concreate. If you have specific questions I’m sure here is help to get here.
Thanks again for a great forum and even though I look into a bit of tuning I’m VERY happy that we built our own speaker and I’m sure it will kick even more @&$€ when fully done
How did the "Aiyima TPA3116" work out for you? I just ordered one myself, mostly because of the built-in bluetooth and treble/bass adjustments. Would be nice to hear your opinion about the amp
Thank you so much for this resource! I'm finally finishing up my classic Boominator this summer, after starting over 3 years ago. It's surprisingly hard to find some sort of compendium on this thing.
Hello, I am attempting to build a sound system for my electric trike “Triguar”. The trike has a 1200w 48v motor powered by a 48v 30ah lithium battery located under the seat. I would like to incorporate the speakers into the frame of the bike, possibly where the gas tank would be on a motorcycle, wondering what size speakers would work best and if I would need build an enclosure to fit inside fake gas tank. Also wanted to possibly add a sub maybe as a back rest for the second passenger. Was looking at class D amps and wondering if I could use a 48v amp or if I should go 24v with a regulator? I already am running a 12v regulator for some led lights. Also wondering if I should use my 48v battery or have a second power source. Budget is negotiable just want it to be loud and be intigrated into the trike. Here are some pics of the trike so far. Thank Jesus you in advance for your help James
Trike sound system
Looking to incorporate a sound system into my custom build trike. It runs on a 48v 30ah battery wondering what class d amp I should use? 48v 24v? Want it to be loud and be able to run all day the motor is 1200w and I have a led lighting system with a 12v regulator running off the 48v battery. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Looking to incorporate a sound system into my custom build trike. It runs on a 48v 30ah battery wondering what class d amp I should use? 48v 24v? Want it to be loud and be able to run all day the motor is 1200w and I have a led lighting system with a 12v regulator running off the 48v battery. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
sound like a total redesign? I would start a new thread. lots of replys need just for your project. worthy of its own thread.
Hey all,
I just put an AMP-9 basic together for my Signature Boominator, and it works but channel 1 is quite.. it does output sound but it's like the sound is not being amplified. As if my phone was directly connected to the speaker.
Anyone got any ideas about which component might be the issue?
My assumption is the chip is fine given it's outputting a signal so probably the coil, or maybe one of the caps?
All other channels are fine.
One other thing, I have revision 1.1 which is an older version. To be in class D mode, version 1.2 required that the AM jumper be 'jumped' - the opposite of what it should be. Anyone know if that's the same case with 1.1?
I just put an AMP-9 basic together for my Signature Boominator, and it works but channel 1 is quite.. it does output sound but it's like the sound is not being amplified. As if my phone was directly connected to the speaker.
Anyone got any ideas about which component might be the issue?
My assumption is the chip is fine given it's outputting a signal so probably the coil, or maybe one of the caps?
All other channels are fine.
One other thing, I have revision 1.1 which is an older version. To be in class D mode, version 1.2 required that the AM jumper be 'jumped' - the opposite of what it should be. Anyone know if that's the same case with 1.1?
Watts = Volts * Amps. You have approximately 1440 watts of capacity in the battery. (48 * 30) for an hour. Based on what you said, you can run your motor for about an hour before it is discharged.
Assuming you need half of the battery capacity to run your motor, (you are not constantly running it for that hour, or it uses less than 1200watts at times) That leaves 15ah of capacity.
You can then possibly draw 1 amp for 15 hours... or 2 amps for 7.5 hours. or 10 amps for 1.5 hours.
10 Amps * 48 volts = 480 watts of power to the amplifiers (and they will not be 100% efficient, so figure closer to 350 - 400 watts to the speakers for about 1.5 hours.)
2 amps * 48 volts = 96 watts for 7.5 hours. Again, probably closer to 80 - 85 watts to the speakers for 7.5 hours.
You need really efficient speakers to be loud with low power. The Boominator was specifically designed to be loud and efficient The drivers were chosen with this in mind, its original amplifier was 2 x 25 watts. It would probably be about 1.5 to 1.75 amps draw. That might get you where you need.
You cannot go overboard with amplifier power on your trike. (you just do not have the battery capacity for 2 x 160 watts for any length of time and still have power for the motor and lights.)
Joe L.
Hi, it is a very long thread but very interesting topic.
Could some one help me to find the final version of filter Saturnus mention?
Thanks a lot!
Could you advice me on filter
if I take PHT-407N and Basslite S2010 can I use:
B&C XO-1 2 way 2khz crossover PS46.49 IN STOCK (7 Jul 2019)
or
B&C XO-3 2 way 1.8khz crossover
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If you want to waste money and get the worst sound possible, you can use these x-over. If you are lucky and don´t play loud, they will prevent the tweeter from burning for some time. For your speakers, crossing at 1800/2000 Hz is much to low.
Please. for the rest of your live, realize there is no "universal passive loudspeaker cross over" in this world. Any cross over has to be designed for specific set of speakers.
Loudspeakers impedance (the ohm´s) change with frequency, the x-over point depends on the resistance. So, the capacitors, inductors and resistors in a x-over have to suit this "impedance curve", not the nominal 4 or 8 ohm´s written on the chassis. Second, the sensitivity of two or more loudspeakers gets matched in the x-over, too. So even if you had two speakers with the same impedance curve, the sound pressure would not match. If you try to correct this with a resistor, the x-over changes it´s x-over point and the whole thing goes down the drain, again. There are thousends of speakers availabel, with millions of possible combinations, that may work well together. Any combination needs it´s very own x-over design. Now, maybe, you understand why "universal x-overs" are non sense. They are a thing of the past, where sound quality was secondary and only "well it works and makes noise" counted. If you buy Chinese no name loudspeakers and put them in some box, you may as well buy one of their x-overs for this heap of junk. Maybe you even like the result, if you get drunk enough before turning the music on...
Why are there such x-overs if the don´t work? Because people want to malke money, as long as there are uninformed people who ask for such a thing, someone will sell it. (Compare: You know crack and meth are no good for you, but still there are many people who sell and buy it.)
If you want to get good sound out of carefully selected speakers, you have to measure and develop a good working x-over or buy a proven kit, combined by someone who had the skill´s and spent a lot of time in fine tuning it.
Today it is much easyer and cheaper to go active with a DSP. You can adjust in software and don´t have to buy a bucket full of passive parts, just for a try.
An additional amp for the tweeters will be less cost than one inductor for the low pass of a passive system.
If you don´t want to learn how to use a measuring system and how to use an active x-over software, buy something that works. If your speakers are a good combination, chances are high someone has made an x-over for them. Search the net.
Please. for the rest of your live, realize there is no "universal passive loudspeaker cross over" in this world. Any cross over has to be designed for specific set of speakers.
Loudspeakers impedance (the ohm´s) change with frequency, the x-over point depends on the resistance. So, the capacitors, inductors and resistors in a x-over have to suit this "impedance curve", not the nominal 4 or 8 ohm´s written on the chassis. Second, the sensitivity of two or more loudspeakers gets matched in the x-over, too. So even if you had two speakers with the same impedance curve, the sound pressure would not match. If you try to correct this with a resistor, the x-over changes it´s x-over point and the whole thing goes down the drain, again. There are thousends of speakers availabel, with millions of possible combinations, that may work well together. Any combination needs it´s very own x-over design. Now, maybe, you understand why "universal x-overs" are non sense. They are a thing of the past, where sound quality was secondary and only "well it works and makes noise" counted. If you buy Chinese no name loudspeakers and put them in some box, you may as well buy one of their x-overs for this heap of junk. Maybe you even like the result, if you get drunk enough before turning the music on...
Why are there such x-overs if the don´t work? Because people want to malke money, as long as there are uninformed people who ask for such a thing, someone will sell it. (Compare: You know crack and meth are no good for you, but still there are many people who sell and buy it.)
If you want to get good sound out of carefully selected speakers, you have to measure and develop a good working x-over or buy a proven kit, combined by someone who had the skill´s and spent a lot of time in fine tuning it.
Today it is much easyer and cheaper to go active with a DSP. You can adjust in software and don´t have to buy a bucket full of passive parts, just for a try.
An additional amp for the tweeters will be less cost than one inductor for the low pass of a passive system.
If you don´t want to learn how to use a measuring system and how to use an active x-over software, buy something that works. If your speakers are a good combination, chances are high someone has made an x-over for them. Search the net.
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But isn't an adjustable electronic x-over a universal x-over as well?
Anyway, using a ready made (fixed) x-over which isn't dedicated to the speaker combination, will most likely not work perfect but works to some extend. At first i'd try to use the low/mid-drivers in full-range and connect the tweeters via a resistor + capacitor ho have highpass-limited signal. (Almost like the original boominator solution is made) The resistor is needed to adapt the SPL of the speakers to the low/mid driver, is tweeters are most likely way louder than the rest.
Using a DSP is the most elegant solution but not always needed if there isn't anything else you ask em for. (Like SubSonic, Compressor, Limiter, EQ, etc..)
Keep it simple at first.
I am embarking on my first bike build. I've got an ambitious timeline. Hoping to take my new rig to Burning Man at the end of the month.
My inspiration is thanks to David Forbe's wonderful 404 Not Found. - Loud Bike Project. I have the same cargo bike setup.
On David's bike, the drivers are pointed in opposite directions to provide front and rear sound. I am planning to point all of my main drivers towards the rear to maximize the fun when the bike is parked. If possible, I'd love to have some small mid range/tweeters pointing to the front so I can enjoy the music while I ride the bike.
A few questions I'd love opinions on from the experts:
Since the woofers take up the entire surface area of the tube enclosure, is it reasonable to mount the tweeters in a separate enclosure mounted on top of the woofer tubes? What is optimal spatial arrangement for open air sound?
I am fairly technical, but am out of my comfort zone with audio/electrical/hardware. It seems like a JAB2 or JAB3 can dramatically simplify a build. I think it eliminates the need crossovers? What modern upgrades would you make to Dave's setup to optimize for ease of use and simplicity?
Dave uses 12"? Will this be a noticeable difference over a 10" woofer? Or is this an opportunity to save some weight?
If I move the speakers to the rear, what is a good option for forward pointing drivers with decent range?
What's the ideal power system to get me: 1) at least 8-12 hours of playback 2) battery that can be recharged via solar 3) at least 1 usb power/cigarette output
Here's my current shopping list:
Woofer (x2)
Rear Tweeters (x2)
Front Speakers (x2)
AMP
Wiring
USB/Cigarette power port
Battery
Solar Panel
A bunch of other things I am missing?
I don't need world class sound but I def want folks to be impressed at the quality and volume coming from a bike. Smile
Any help of my questions or filling out my shopping list would be greatly appreciated.
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My inspiration is thanks to David Forbe's wonderful 404 Not Found. - Loud Bike Project. I have the same cargo bike setup.
On David's bike, the drivers are pointed in opposite directions to provide front and rear sound. I am planning to point all of my main drivers towards the rear to maximize the fun when the bike is parked. If possible, I'd love to have some small mid range/tweeters pointing to the front so I can enjoy the music while I ride the bike.
A few questions I'd love opinions on from the experts:
Since the woofers take up the entire surface area of the tube enclosure, is it reasonable to mount the tweeters in a separate enclosure mounted on top of the woofer tubes? What is optimal spatial arrangement for open air sound?
I am fairly technical, but am out of my comfort zone with audio/electrical/hardware. It seems like a JAB2 or JAB3 can dramatically simplify a build. I think it eliminates the need crossovers? What modern upgrades would you make to Dave's setup to optimize for ease of use and simplicity?
Dave uses 12"? Will this be a noticeable difference over a 10" woofer? Or is this an opportunity to save some weight?
If I move the speakers to the rear, what is a good option for forward pointing drivers with decent range?
What's the ideal power system to get me: 1) at least 8-12 hours of playback 2) battery that can be recharged via solar 3) at least 1 usb power/cigarette output
Here's my current shopping list:
Woofer (x2)
Rear Tweeters (x2)
Front Speakers (x2)
AMP
Wiring
USB/Cigarette power port
Battery
Solar Panel
A bunch of other things I am missing?
I don't need world class sound but I def want folks to be impressed at the quality and volume coming from a bike. Smile
Any help of my questions or filling out my shopping list would be greatly appreciated.
Back to Top
Ever looked at a voice coil? specifically the size of the wire? it'll be in the region of 0.05mm². Any hookup wire that you use will be thicker than that, and 0.75mm² is overkill. the problem with thick wires is that they are heavy and any movement when you carry the speaker will be translated as stress to the joint.
If you really want to use a card board tube (pro: cheap and sturdy, con: audio sin) then consider getting a coaxial driver, then mounting will take care by itself and will sound good with the off the shelf crossover.
Pro Coaxial Full-Range Speakers in the Speaker Components Department at Parts Express | 32
my pick would be the Beta12Cx excellent bang for the buck.