The best sounding audio integrated opamps

Hmmmm...maybe I'd better avoid a DAC with the PCM1796 then. :)

Better stay with the AD1852 and CS4398. After all, I like the idea of a V-out DAC followed by a very simple single-opamp output stage. The OPA1611 should be fine with both chips.

Edit: or with the Zhaolu D3.5's differential PCM1738's... :scratch2:
 
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If I'm not talking anymore about how great the OPA1611 is :) , it's because the DAC is awaiting a last capacitor change. I've received the caps, now I only need the time...

In the meantime, I'm listening to my Cambridge Audio D300SE (tweaked by myself, years ago) and really enjoying it... but I'm already starting to miss my CS4398 & OPA1611 DAC somewhat. :)
 
Very much appreciate the link to the op-amp test paper. Results seem quite reasonable and confirm is is not only a matter of which chip, but in applying it well. Confirmed modern chips have gotten very good and my suspicion about current discrete implementations.
I would like to see someone write up a current basic primer on "applying it well". Data sheets and cookbooks are way obsolete to the capabilities of these parts.
 
Ramblings
I have compared all the previously mentioned opamps in various applications. Output driver, unity buffer, gain stage at 6-18db, I/V converter, dc servo, inverting stage, differential amp, etc. The sonics of the LT1360 are in general the best. Several steps ahead of the OPA134. Why the LT13xx family isn't more popular I have no idea
Op Amp Upgrade I like the Linear Technologies opamps. LT1360 for single, LT1361 for dual. No need for the even higher speed LT1364. These amps from LT are incredible with a see-through detail second to none!
 
Very much appreciate the link to the op-amp test paper. Results seem quite reasonable and confirm is is not only a matter of which chip, but in applying it well. Confirmed modern chips have gotten very good and my suspicion about current discrete implementations.
I would like to see someone write up a current basic primer on "applying it well". Data sheets and cookbooks are way obsolete to the capabilities of these parts.
You sure? In my eyes, that paper tends to give the exact opposite impression, i.e. a objective measure of the "quality" of a chip, based on its harmonic distortion in the specific test conditions - i.e. a single "test gig", which changes in nothing for all the chips tested... proof being the fact that for a few of them (e.g. LT1115, AD845) the author had to skip some tests. :)
 
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You sure? In my eyes, that paper tends to give the exact opposite impression, i.e. a objective measure of the "quality" of a chip, based on its harmonic distortion in the specific test conditions - i.e. a single "test gig", which changes in nothing for all the chips tested... proof being the fact that for a few of them (e.g. LT1115, AD845) the author had to skip some tests. :)

It is true that there are some measurements which reflect different operating conditions... like distortion with different (if purely resistive) output loads, inverting or noninverting operation, or input impedance... [all things I have no problem to acknowledge, actually I always think of them]

BUT let me stress again that the test gig is one and no specific tweaking (to address this supposedly "big issue" of undercompensation or overcompensation) is done for any chip. In other words... the author rolled the chips in his test gig like any completely naive opamp roller would :D

This makes you think...
 
DAC is up and running. :cool:

With a new 25V rated power supply main cap, allowing for a 24V power supply (if I desire).

And I've also added a 100uF Rubycon ZLH in the CS4398 digital power supply, bypassed with 100nF Evox MMK. Also I've put new Wima MKS02 100nF bypass caps for the OPA1611's.

Ahhh... now I must break out my new Supra TRICO-RCA digital cable.


In all honesty, though, my CDP sounds good too (a little more lightweight and less refined...but its tonal character remains fascinating). So I'll be keeping both connected to the amp. :)
 
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I've reached complete satisfaction finally. The OPA1611 lends my DAC a organic, tonally vivid, sweet, transparent, authoritative sound. Gorgeous. The LT1028CS8 was a bit more assertive, which I liked, with a more outright impression of transparency... but you have to choose one, don't you...

And I've chosen to trade that touch more transparency for that touch more sweetness. :cool:
 
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hehe, I don't believe in cables...let alone break-in(I tried the most killer cryo cable, it was a joke :D)

anyway, that sounds good: http://www.imagebam.com/image/33bba760232669

much better than the other way around...the AD797B was feeding the burson w/ reverb, so it became pointless in the end...now it's much better, the bursons feed the 797B w/ a HiFi colored wide(but not reverbed) sound, and I still get the 797B crazy SS :)
 
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Yes, a bad cable can cause bad problems. Trying to drive cables with a low power op-amp is bad news. That is why they invented line drivers. With proper drive capability, almost any decent cable will work fine. Poor fitting or dirty connectors can cause rectification issues; not good. Bad crimps ( Please, solder only) don't help.

My point is a good cable is as good as it gets. Good cable is easy. Good amplifier output design is harder.

I use plain old solid copper 75 Ohm coax, foam core, 98% copper braid with generic firm seating RCA's and make them as short as possible. No difference to my Tara Labs and compared to Cardas and Monster with no difference. ( But I do love the tight as all get out Tara RCA's) Plain old coax is designed to balance the reactive parastatics for the DC to 1Ghz range. I run RG8 for speaker wire. Designed for high power under a Mhz. Beats my old Kimber 4TC. For my long balanced runs, it is some surplus Belden mic cable. Designed by cable people who are far smarter than I.

If you are trying to run 10M without proper drivers, then maybe, maybe, special wire could make a tiny theoretical difference. Good circuit/systems engineering will pay off more. I have no doubt others will disagree. Frequently a hot topic, epically from those who have paid way too much for a cable. When I can afford $50,000 amps, I will listen again and see if I change my mind. Doubt it, but I have been know to change when presented with evidence. In the mean time, I can sulk, as the store I dropped by was out of Grado's. Have to wait another day.
 
Cables are very important... no good cable, no good sound.
definitely! Monster cables on ebay do the job, cheap/sturdy and great sound :)

when I see ppl selling cables for $2K :eek:

hehe, whatever the manufacturer/reseller or final seller must be making +2000% markup..as Coluche said ages ago: "as long as there'll be morons to buy it, there'll be morons to sell it".
 
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I used Monster Cable stuff (had the M350i interconnect) a long ago. They are decent for their prices (depends on the series, though), but today there's better around... and you don't have to spend $2000. I paid my Audioquest King Cobra (IIRC) about 120 euro brand new on ebay. It costs twice in shops here..

And ebay has many other interesting deals... like my VALab 6N silver interconnect, which cost only $80 + shipping (IIRC).


As of now, I wouldn't go back to Monster Cable. My favorite online cable source anyway is Cables and accessories for hi-fi and AV systems - hificables.co.uk . :) (bought from them a Chord Cobra 3, the Chord iChord, and lately the Supra TRICO-RCA)
 
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IMO cables are the last thing to worry about...once you have the most killer amp/source/headphones/speakers, then you can waste some cash on cables if you're bored.

I'd like to find a 4ft solid copper RCA cable, but I couldn't find any on ebay...solid copper is good stuff! silver is said to sound bright, and the more copper strands the more distortion.

I like the Burson propaganda against IC's: IC Chip No Good for Audio
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I have no problem understanding why dual op-amps are evil when you see the size/design on of those things(see the links the at the bottom of the page).

I've received my LT1677IN8, I'll roll them as final buffer when I'll be bored..but so far the 2*burson>2*ad797b is nothing less than a massive tear-jerker, so I'll take it easy on rolling for a while :p

and about browndog's for single DIP8, what should I do w/ the leads? I will solder on top...so I guess I could fold the bottom leads? anyway, I still haven't received my new browndog's, xmas makes every shipment sloooooooooow.
 
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