The best midrange driver (cost no option) for 3-way

Dear Silent Screamer,
you could better describe the speakers "open buffer without buffer" of which you published the photos, I would be interested in building in pair of speakers "definitive" and would like to deepen the topic to see if this may be the right way. I hope to read you soon.
Thank you and greetings.
leod
 
There is no best midrange driver. Any driver/enclosure combination shape and alter the sounds character even regardless of frequency responce. Just like they all.. Bla bla, yes there are favored, combinations of drivers, but the best mid for a given 3way would depend on the woofer tweeter match.

:worship:
 
Dear Silent Screamer,
you could better describe the speakers "open buffer without buffer" of which you published the photos, I would be interested in building in pair of speakers "definitive" and would like to deepen the topic to see if this may be the right way. I hope to read you soon.
Thank you and greetings.
leod

I can't claim credit for this design I was just copying what @StigErik had done before me. I just did up two different test baffles, that photo I posted was one, the other is a typical board mount open baffle.

I prefer the chain hung version. If you want to know more about the design read some of StigErik's posts.
 
Whatever you end up choosing, the Morel MDM-55 seems inexpensive enough that it would be interesting to see a comparison between whichever midrange you do decide to go with, and the 55.

"Beryllium soft dome tweeter"
There is no such thing. :rolleyes:

That, I can see. Towards what end ?
It is difficult to construct a baffle which does not add additional coloration to the sound beyond just "baffle step" and diffraction at the edges. If you use constrained layer damping with sorbothane gaskets to isolate the woofer frame from the baffle, I think you will achieve results as good as what the other gentleman was after with his "no baffle" approach...
 
Last edited:
Member
Joined 2008
Paid Member
It is difficult to construct a baffle which does not add additional coloration to the sound beyond just "baffle step" and diffraction at the edges. If you use constrained layer damping with sorbothane gaskets to isolate the woofer frame from the baffle, I think you will achieve results as good as what the other gentleman was after with his "no baffle" approach...

Good point. A non-supported flat board baffle could indeed spell trouble.
 
You better want coupling with the cabinet for a woofer, but decoupling for a high mid or tweeter ?!

Does the weight of those little driver are enough without baffle to prevent any moves due to the resistance of air when the cone push this last (like an airplane rector) ? I can understand a planar has few mvt, but a mid-woof ?? (no loss during big transcient for instance ?)
 
Last edited:
Hello, I am ready to buy here's what I am thinking of using for my project. I already have a two pair of AE TD12s, one pair of AE TD6m, and I am asking for opinions on weather I should buy a pair of Visaton DSM50FFL to be low crossed at about 2500hz and high passed at about 4k-6k and use the raal 70-10D from 4k-6k and up. My question does the visaton and the raal match up great for the upper mid and tweeter. Thanks for your input, this would be a 4-way design using the mini dsp4X10HD for tweeking. I have the plug in and mic also. Thanks again PS: The woofers and mids would be in sealed chambers.
 
If you want to Keep it Simple.

The Satori TW29RN dome tweeter has a sensitivity of 96db @2.83V and should provide a good 2Khz crossover option for your TD6M midrange. The latest posted TD6M SPL curves show very little beaming at 2kHz for a smooth polar match to a dome tweeter. Cone breakup which starts at 3.5kHz might require LR4 acoustic slopes, and some designers add a notch filter at 5kHz.

Very good reviews. $145

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...w29rn-ring-dome-tweeter-with-neodymium-motor/
 
which tweeter or mid & tweet should I use and why

What I would like to know is should I use a high mid and tweeter or just use the AE TD6m plus a great tweeter. The simplest way is the make it a three way with WWMT OR WMT OR 4 WAY WWM,MH,T OR WM,MH,T personally I think a 3 way with wwmt would be the best per John the pair of woofers in each speaker would make up for baffle lost and give me about 103-104db on the low end. Please give me your best knowledge and tell me why you fill this way. I am so excited about finishing this program and all my friends are waiting for the finished product. Example is the Raal not the best tweeter on the planet and if not what and why is the one you like is better. Raal makes a 70-20xr that is supposed to be good from 2k and up if so it looks great on paper almost perfect for a 3 way td12s, td12s, td6m, & 70-20XR raal. The only problem is it will cost me $1400.00 to my door for a pair. Is it worth it to you guys or would I be the biggest sucker in history to make such a high purchase. Looking for the perfect answer. I listen to a lot of old school R&B, southern blues, rock, etc... so of which is not recorded very well so take that into account as well. I will be tri or quad amping the whole system the best amps for the given frequencies. All the components, connectors, wires, cables, room treatment, etc... is top of the line 10 years in the making. Thanks again.
Thanks, for you guys help.
 
Last edited:
What I would like to know is should I use a high mid and tweeter or just use the AE TD6m plus a great tweeter. The simplest way is the make it a three way with WWMT OR WMT OR 4 WAY WWM,MH,T OR WM,MH,T personally I think a 3 way with wwmt would be the best per John the pair of woofers in each speaker would make up for baffle lost and give me about 103-104db on the low end. Please give me your best knowledge and tell me why you fill this way. I am so excited about finishing this program and all my friends are waiting for the finished product. Example is the Raal not the best tweeter on the planet and if not what and why is the one you like is better. Raal makes a 70-20xr that is supposed to be good from 2k and up if so it looks great on paper almost perfect for a 3 way td12s, td12s, td6m, & 70-20XR raal. The only problem is it will cost me $1400.00 to my door for a pair. Is it worth it to you guys or would I be the biggest sucker in history to make such a high purchase. Looking for the perfect answer. I listen to a lot of old school R&B, southern blues, rock, etc... so of which is not recorded very well so take that into account as well. I will be tri or quad amping the whole system the best amps for the given frequencies. All the components, connectors, wires, cables, room treatment, etc... is top of the line 10 years in the making. Thanks again.
Thanks, for you guys help.
PS: I would like to keep all the drivers and 8ohms.