That "hissing" could also be caused by the cutout for the driver being slightly too big, so it's gasket doesn't quite make an airtight seal. The cutout should be slightly smaller than the diameter the manufacturer provides, because that's for mounting the driver through the cutout, not on top of it.
So I finally ordered grills for the TH18's!
Not cheap, but it will give the cab(s) a "pro look".
Same perforation for the top cab:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Not cheap, but it will give the cab(s) a "pro look".
Same perforation for the top cab:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And the grilles have arrived!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Unfortunately not. I dont have the 18Ipal's now. I paid the difference and i have exchanged them with a pair of 21Ipal because my own project is in development and I need all the money I have. I will try it with the Ipal next spring probably.
@radulescu
Tnx for the reply, I look forward to your new project with the 21Ipals's!
My own TH-18's are finally finished.
Tnx for the reply, I look forward to your new project with the 21Ipals's!
My own TH-18's are finally finished.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looking for some insight here- Was planning on building one of these, and hopefully adding a second in a few months. I will never need more than 2 for my application (DJing bars, occasional outdoor party,etc). My budget is very limited and was planning on using an inuke 6000dsp to drive one but have learned you cant bridge it.
-Buy the 4ohm version of the 18lw2400 from overseas (cant find one in the us). With 3000 watts into 4 ohms ea channel I could run 2 TH18s off this one amp (ideal)
-Run the 8ohm version on the inuke600 @ 1500 watts per channel and upgrade in the future if this doesnt provide enough power. (Will 1500 watts get these moving? again mostly smaller spaces erc)
-Run the 8ohm driver off a bridged crown XLi 2500 @ 2700 watts bridged and buy separate DSP.
Best option right now seems to be finding a 4ohm 18lw2400, as the extra cost for the driver/shipping is less than a more expensive amp.
I guess the main question here is what is an acceptable level of wattage to drive these things for bar/mobile DJ/small outdoor parties? Should I build another cab with a less demanding driver?
Thanks so much to xoc and everyone who contributes here!!
-Buy the 4ohm version of the 18lw2400 from overseas (cant find one in the us). With 3000 watts into 4 ohms ea channel I could run 2 TH18s off this one amp (ideal)
-Run the 8ohm version on the inuke600 @ 1500 watts per channel and upgrade in the future if this doesnt provide enough power. (Will 1500 watts get these moving? again mostly smaller spaces erc)
-Run the 8ohm driver off a bridged crown XLi 2500 @ 2700 watts bridged and buy separate DSP.
Best option right now seems to be finding a 4ohm 18lw2400, as the extra cost for the driver/shipping is less than a more expensive amp.
I guess the main question here is what is an acceptable level of wattage to drive these things for bar/mobile DJ/small outdoor parties? Should I build another cab with a less demanding driver?
Thanks so much to xoc and everyone who contributes here!!
First of all, it will never do 3000w.
According to the Hornresp simulation the 18LW2400 can do max 400w (or 56.6v) in the Xoc1 @ 9.5mm xmax. Maybe a little bit more but that is it.
This gives you 127db at 40hz up to 100hz.
You need to understand the box will determine the limit of the woofer not the woofer.
According to the Hornresp simulation the 18LW2400 can do max 400w (or 56.6v) in the Xoc1 @ 9.5mm xmax. Maybe a little bit more but that is it.
This gives you 127db at 40hz up to 100hz.
You need to understand the box will determine the limit of the woofer not the woofer.
Hi
Be aware of the Size and weight and output of this sub.
The output is astonishing so you will soon be fed up of carrying it at bars where you can use one tenth of it's potencial while living with his size.
It could be worth if you do more outside events that require substantial sub, but if bars are your main target I would look at two small subs and then maybe double to four later for outside events.
If your bars are very big and like to have everything shaking then th18 is the right cab.
I have four but resorted to borrow a small active sub for little events, loading and unloading the th is always a job.
About the inuke 6000 it will do 1800 real watts on 4 ohm and 1200 on 8 ohms, still a lot for the price!
Be aware of the Size and weight and output of this sub.
The output is astonishing so you will soon be fed up of carrying it at bars where you can use one tenth of it's potencial while living with his size.
It could be worth if you do more outside events that require substantial sub, but if bars are your main target I would look at two small subs and then maybe double to four later for outside events.
If your bars are very big and like to have everything shaking then th18 is the right cab.
I have four but resorted to borrow a small active sub for little events, loading and unloading the th is always a job.
About the inuke 6000 it will do 1800 real watts on 4 ohm and 1200 on 8 ohms, still a lot for the price!
for smaller option I would recommend building two THAM15 designs. with a relative cheap driver of around 400 to 600w. For example the box 15LB100-8W from thomann.de.
For the price of 2 th's you could build 4 tham15's with drivers included. Add 4 wheels on the back and they are really portable and small.
For the price of 2 th's you could build 4 tham15's with drivers included. Add 4 wheels on the back and they are really portable and small.
Depending on which drivers are used in the th-18, 6 THAM 15 with the cheap thomann drivers are absolutely possible
