your 15s will work in that box size but they will be 45-50hz low corner boxes at best, (excepth the xl1400, this you can take down to the upper 30s). increase your size expectations, and you will get great results from the 18xl1600. a good flh can be drawn at 90x90x60cm with the 1020 or 1600 18s.
Hi Brian, Hi Sine
Thanks for your replys. I will consider this. I think about to try both ways, the big 18" one and also the smaller 15" version. i'm not so familiar with the theorethical basics and in developing this stuff. The practical part of this is more in my nature
but i will try to do it. probably it will take some time.
my basic set at the moment consists of 6 pcs of single 15"-BR Cabinets (15FX560). They do work well especially in respect of good impulse ressponse. Handling is fine and i can do also smaller setups using one or two subs in combination with a 12" top (that was the basic idea)
To get lower use additional 4 pcs Single 18" BR Subs. I got the cabinets for free and revised them. i optimized (i hope so) the ports by using cornerports and took the 18HP1020 driver from Faital. so the cost where over all about €400.- so that's ok.
I found out that, if i combine both subs driven by the same Amp (the 15" parallel to the 18"), it makes a great sound. i got the impression the smaller driver gives a kind of damping to the 18" driver which leads also to a fast response and punchy sound. For secure i drive the Amps (Pascal X-Pro2, CH1 2400WRMS/4Ohm) with -2dB Input Gain. If there wll be time i should try to measure this. i think the drivers match very well. i wonder what you think about this, so please tell me.
all in all it's a lot of wood in proportion to the output. That's why i'm going to try something new (for me)
Thanks for your replys. I will consider this. I think about to try both ways, the big 18" one and also the smaller 15" version. i'm not so familiar with the theorethical basics and in developing this stuff. The practical part of this is more in my nature
but i will try to do it. probably it will take some time.my basic set at the moment consists of 6 pcs of single 15"-BR Cabinets (15FX560). They do work well especially in respect of good impulse ressponse. Handling is fine and i can do also smaller setups using one or two subs in combination with a 12" top (that was the basic idea)
To get lower use additional 4 pcs Single 18" BR Subs. I got the cabinets for free and revised them. i optimized (i hope so) the ports by using cornerports and took the 18HP1020 driver from Faital. so the cost where over all about €400.- so that's ok.
I found out that, if i combine both subs driven by the same Amp (the 15" parallel to the 18"), it makes a great sound. i got the impression the smaller driver gives a kind of damping to the 18" driver which leads also to a fast response and punchy sound. For secure i drive the Amps (Pascal X-Pro2, CH1 2400WRMS/4Ohm) with -2dB Input Gain. If there wll be time i should try to measure this. i think the drivers match very well. i wonder what you think about this, so please tell me.
all in all it's a lot of wood in proportion to the output. That's why i'm going to try something new (for me)
Please forget my request for plans of a TH18 version 2. I realize now that there is consensus that they should not be shared in public.
But if someone who built a TH18 with the V-shape cone correction designed by themselves would share their experience, - that wouldn't be a a bad thing would it?
I am building 4 more of these beasts and I might as well go for the the new version if the V-shape cone correction and longer horn path actually makes any difference.
Best, Andy
Correct most people like the sound of the Danley TH115 and TH118 playing together ,same horn path, I had 3 of each at one time before getting 2 DBH218's .Hi Brian, Hi Sine
Thanks for your replys. I will consider this. I think about to try both ways, the big 18" one and also the smaller 15" version. i'm not so familiar with the theorethical basics and in developing this stuff. The practical part of this is more in my nature
my basic set at the moment consists of 6 pcs of single 15"-BR Cabinets (15FX560). They do work well especially in respect of good impulse ressponse. Handling is fine and i can do also smaller setups using one or two subs in combination with a 12" top (that was the basic idea)
To get lower use additional 4 pcs Single 18" BR Subs. I got the cabinets for free and revised them. i optimized (i hope so) the ports by using cornerports and took the 18HP1020 driver from Faital. so the cost where over all about €400.- so that's ok.
I found out that, if i combine both subs driven by the same Amp (the 15" parallel to the 18"), it makes a great sound. i got the impression the smaller driver gives a kind of damping to the 18" driver which leads also to a fast response and punchy sound. For secure i drive the Amps (Pascal X-Pro2, CH1 2400WRMS/4Ohm) with -2dB Input Gain. If there wll be time i should try to measure this. i think the drivers match very well. i wonder what you think about this, so please tell me.
all in all it's a lot of wood in proportion to the output. That's why i'm going to try something new (for me)
First and foremost let me thank you all for the combined effort in the great design. If nothing else it's been a very interesting read for 3 or 4 days. Now if someone could help me with two questions I have one when I input the spec into HORNresp I keep receiving error messages it maybe version of software I'm using and my second question is if someone could model the Dayton audio PA465s-8 for me i would be grateful.Dayton Audio PA465S-8 18" Pro Subwoofer 4" VC 8 Ohm
Any hornresp inputs for the sims below?
I just bought 4 cyclops, I could do an A/B with Andy some day, he built Xoc1 TH18s (look back in thread
I expected the xco1 to go lower & about as loud
I just bought 4 cyclops, I could do an A/B with Andy some day, he built Xoc1 TH18s (look back in thread
I expected the xco1 to go lower & about as loud
I didn't do anything! -I just quoted Djim and asked for the hornresp input.
I think people use several different drivers, but to get a fair comparison I think it's fair to use the same drive, one that performs well in both cabs.
The fane 18-1500 sims nice in cyclops, but the RTM "RED I" sims even better, I'll try with some more drivers...
I think people use several different drivers, but to get a fair comparison I think it's fair to use the same drive, one that performs well in both cabs.
The fane 18-1500 sims nice in cyclops, but the RTM "RED I" sims even better, I'll try with some more drivers...
They're louder, look at previous page 215, they seem to go as deep, which surprises me! This is why I asked for the inputs.
The plans are all over, there's cyclops CB-18, CBe-18 & CBx-18, "x" being the biggest with most low end & CBe the smallest.
Just google & you'll find the plans
However I don't know how hornresp should "see" the advantages of a symmetric horn versus the th-18, so perhaps you should add a bit more expectation to the hornresp sim than with TH-18.
The plans are all over, there's cyclops CB-18, CBe-18 & CBx-18, "x" being the biggest with most low end & CBe the smallest.
Just google & you'll find the plans
However I don't know how hornresp should "see" the advantages of a symmetric horn versus the th-18, so perhaps you should add a bit more expectation to the hornresp sim than with TH-18.
I guess you mean the CBe?
But how can you know? -Do you have the hornresp inputs Djim used? I found some revised hornresp inputs from Djim on here that's supposed to be more realistic, so if he has used those the above is not the case.
Also note the differences on CB/CBe/CBX