C2-3
Twisted,
keep in mind that you can use a lower than 400V type (if you are not going to measure 400V), and higher microF as well, which will allow you a flatter low frequency response. The only limit is the P=< 22.5 mm.
Also, it was pointed out the importance of matching the 2 caps (C2-3), so would be better to use the 5% tolerance ones, or buy many and match them with a capacimeter.
Twisted,
keep in mind that you can use a lower than 400V type (if you are not going to measure 400V), and higher microF as well, which will allow you a flatter low frequency response. The only limit is the P=< 22.5 mm.
Also, it was pointed out the importance of matching the 2 caps (C2-3), so would be better to use the 5% tolerance ones, or buy many and match them with a capacimeter.
For C1-4-6..., this option is even cheaper: 667-ECQ-V1H104JL
1/4" jack: it has to be stereo, not mono. This should work: 568-NYS219
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That is what makes this a bit hard, I do not know what are the essential values that really have effect.
I was thinking, would it be possible to measure mains output with this device? Here the output voltage is 230v. Why? It would be interesting to see what kind of effect power filters/conditioners have. Those 400VDC capacitors seems to only handle 220VAC and the meter goes only up to 200V, so I'm guessing this isn't that easy to do.
And don't worry, I'm not going to shock myself with mains voltage the moment I've built this device, I wouldn't try something like this if I wouldn't be 110% sure what I would be doing
The panasonic polypropylene caps are either with 20 or 25mm lead spacing, Mouser has 1,5uf wima in stock, but it has 27,5mm lead spacing.
-Ari
I was thinking, would it be possible to measure mains output with this device? Here the output voltage is 230v. Why? It would be interesting to see what kind of effect power filters/conditioners have. Those 400VDC capacitors seems to only handle 220VAC and the meter goes only up to 200V, so I'm guessing this isn't that easy to do.
And don't worry, I'm not going to shock myself with mains voltage the moment I've built this device, I wouldn't try something like this if I wouldn't be 110% sure what I would be doing
The panasonic polypropylene caps are either with 20 or 25mm lead spacing, Mouser has 1,5uf wima in stock, but it has 27,5mm lead spacing.
-Ari
Not too hard, come on! Just read this thread as well as Millet's home page, and many answers are there.
I am not an expert, but i would not connect the mains to the jig, even if C1-2 would support 1000VAC. I guess an isolation transformer would be required. Maybe Pete or Kevin (hey Kevin, don't forget to answer me on diode capacitance, please) can give you some suggestions.
Go with the Pana 20mm, it has a low tolerance too.
Just read this thread as well as Millet's home page, and many answers are there. I am not an expert, but i would not connect the mains to the jig, even if C1-2 would support 1000VAC. I guess an isolation transformer would be required. Maybe Pete or Kevin (hey Kevin, don't forget to answer me on diode capacitance, please) can give you some suggestions.
Go with the Pana 20mm, it has a low tolerance too.
Not too hard, come on!
I've read it, but it's been a while after that. Now as I have the many to spend, I thought I've build this device, but it seems to be hard to even get the right parts for it
Yeah, I guess that would be a good choice.
DigiKey webpage suggests that the DC converter would be in stock in a week and apparently the RA socket header should be available too. (what is this part anyways?)
If someone tells if these two parts are fine, then I THINK I'm ready to order the parts. (I've just spent like seven hours looking for the parts
)IC, quad exclusive OR gate, 74HC86, DIP14
Conn, 1/4" phone jack Neutrik NYS216
(links to mouser in my previous posts)
But as most of the parts come from DigiKey, especially all the more expensive parts, I only got something like 20-30euros worth of stuff to order from Mouser, and the shipping cost is 20euros. If I order with 75euros of stuff, the shipping would be free
Edit: I just noticed that you aldready commented the jack part. I accidentally picked the mono version
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Well you have to build it up now so better read again ... twice if you need.
Then, the Panasonic polyprop and the Wima seem ok. Also, I ordered most parts from one US supplier (digikey) and the rest in Europe, that should save you import tax and shipping costs. Lastly, measuring 230 V "should" still be possible but you are already stretching your luck
If someone tells if these two parts are fine, then I THINK I'm ready to order the parts. (I've just spent like seven hours looking for the parts
IC, quad exclusive OR gate, 74HC86, DIP14
Conn, 1/4" phone jack Neutrik NYS216
But as most of the parts come from DigiKey, especially all the more expensive parts, I only got something like 20-30euros worth of stuff to order from Mouser, and the shipping cost is 20euros. If I order with 75euros of stuff, the shipping would be free
Edit: I just noticed that you already commented the jack part. I accidentally picked the mono version
IC: 771-74HC86N at Mouser is OK.
RA socket: it interconnect the LCD panel display to the PCB. It's 90° angled, and looks alike the computer floppy-HD socket (but they are male, on the MB). When I did my order, it was out of stock, so I found something alike at my parts store (real store, not virtual): had to cut it since it was more than 30pins.
When I did my order, a couple of months ago, I was able to order just few but expensive parts at Digi, so Mouser order was over 75 euro. It also helps if you need parts fon another project.......
Mouser doesn't have it in stock
Mouser DVR134PA
Only THAT 1606 I can find from mouser or farnell is this:
That1606
And it has 16-pins.
Mouser DVR134PA
Only THAT 1606 I can find from mouser or farnell is this:
That1606
And it has 16-pins.
I've managed to gather all the parts quite nicely and I received mouser package today, but I accidentally ordered just one 2W 49,9K resistor instead of two what is needed.
How essential is the exact value of these resistors? My local stores doesn't have exactly same resistors. Closest I can find is 2w metal film 47k resistors with 5% toleranses. If I buy few of them and match a pair with multimeter, is that ok?
How essential is the exact value of these resistors? My local stores doesn't have exactly same resistors. Closest I can find is 2w metal film 47k resistors with 5% toleranses. If I buy few of them and match a pair with multimeter, is that ok?
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It turned out that the 568-NYS219 jack I bought wasn't right replacement part as it has longer legs/leads and sits higher from the board. I need to file the legs so it fits correctly against the board.
I solved my missing resistor problem by using two 100K 1W 1% metal film resistors in parallel.
Now I'm just waiting for the rest of the components from DigiKey so I can finish this project and test it.
-Ari S
I solved my missing resistor problem by using two 100K 1W 1% metal film resistors in parallel.
Now I'm just waiting for the rest of the components from DigiKey so I can finish this project and test it.
-Ari S
I got all the parts and put the device together and it seems to work just fine
I just can't caibrate it as my DMM is so bad It won't show stable AC 50Hz measurement (but the interface does). And for some reason my M-Audio FW410 won't perform any better with 24bit/96khz than 16bit/48khz
Thanks for all the help you gave
-Ari S
I just can't caibrate it as my DMM is so bad
It won't show stable AC 50Hz measurement (but the interface does). And for some reason my M-Audio FW410 won't perform any better with 24bit/96khz than 16bit/48khz Thanks for all the help you gave
-Ari S
