Hello Chris
It's not exactly in topic, but do you know if there still exist test tape cassette for azimut adjustment of a tape deck, and where I can get it ?
I have a Tandberg tape deck, a superb machine.
Thank
Bye
Gaetan
Might be worth you taking the "best average" of a few decent pre-recorded cassettes.
Decent alignment tapes are very expensive, cheap ones not always absolutely accurate.
If you have replaced a head, set it to match tapes previously recorded... headphones and a good ear will get it 99.9% as it was before.
Decent alignment tapes are very expensive, cheap ones not always absolutely accurate.
If you have replaced a head, set it to match tapes previously recorded... headphones and a good ear will get it 99.9% as it was before.
Hi Gaetan,
I would try Teac. Their test tapes are pretty good.
There are a series of tapes though, the tension tapes are important to use, but first one is a mirror tape. That checks the tape path and confirms your capstan bearing is okay. You can make something that will work from a normal cassette by cutting out the tape pressure pad and plastic from the raised portion.
Then you have an azimuth tape, a level tape (150 nW) and finally a frequency response tape. The signal tapes can be repeated for chrome, but I don't see the point.
Now for my warning. Tandberg machines can easily snap tapes if the switches are worn. Never use a tension tape on these things either, because the motors will tear the tape apart. Tandberg machines where the only ones with this bad behavior.
-Chris
I would try Teac. Their test tapes are pretty good.
There are a series of tapes though, the tension tapes are important to use, but first one is a mirror tape. That checks the tape path and confirms your capstan bearing is okay. You can make something that will work from a normal cassette by cutting out the tape pressure pad and plastic from the raised portion.
Then you have an azimuth tape, a level tape (150 nW) and finally a frequency response tape. The signal tapes can be repeated for chrome, but I don't see the point.
Now for my warning. Tandberg machines can easily snap tapes if the switches are worn. Never use a tension tape on these things either, because the motors will tear the tape apart. Tandberg machines where the only ones with this bad behavior.
-Chris
That's getting pretty hardcore Chris
Remember doing that on an Aiwa ADF770 3 head deck I owned, doing as you describe and using a small "VHS" inspection mirror to set the head height... I put some miles on the clock on that one over the years.
But then came Minidisc
As has been mentioned in this thread, unless you are familiar with general alignment techniques (in which case you would already know what to do), and know what all the adjustments do, it's asking for trouble to just start twiddling things. Tweak the wrong thing and the player won't work at best... at worst you may damage it.
Do have the service manual ? which will detail the procedures and equipment required ?
Here is some info on the SONY cdp x5000 taken from the service manual. It is about calibrating the laser output utilizing a special service disc: SECTION 1
SERVICING NOTE
NOTES ON HANDLING THE OPTICAL PICK-UP BLOCK
OR BASE UNIT
The laser diode in the optical pick-up block may suffer electrostatic
break-down because of the potential difference generated by the
charged electrostatic load, etc. on clothing and the human body.
During repair, pay attention to electrostatic break-down and also use
the procedure in the printed matter which is included in the repair
parts.
The flexible board is easily damaged and should be handled with
care.
NOTES ON LASER DIODE EMISSION CHECK
The laser beam on this model is concentrated so as to be focused on
the disc reflective surface by the objective lens in the optical pick-up
block. Therefore, when checking the laser diode emission, observe
from more than 30 cm away from the objective lens.
LASER DIODE AND FOCUS SEARCH OPERATION CHECK
Carry out the “S curve check” in “CD section adjustment” and check
that the S curve waveform is output three times.
WRITING OF FOCUS/TRACKING AUTO GAIN DATA
General CD palyers using digital servo ICs automatically adjust the
focus/tracking gain each time the disc is changed.
In this unit, the gain of the standard disc (YEDS-18) is written in the
non-volatile memory (IC203:X24C01S) of the servo board so that
the gain need not be re-adjusted when changing discs.
Therefore, if the servo board, IC203 of the servo board, or optical
pick-up has been replaced, be sure to write the auto gain data.
1. Connect TP (ADJ: Pin 3 of CN515) to GND (Ground), and turn
ON the POWER switch.
2. Insert the test disc (YEDS-18). (The TOC data of the disc will be
read.)
This memorizes the auto gain data of the test disc.
Note:
• If the disc is replaced without turning OFF the power, the auto gain
data of the last disc inserted will be memorized.
• If the POWER switch is turned ON without connecting TP (ADJ)
to GND, the auto gain data will not be memorized when the disc is
inserted, and the data memorized the last time will be taken as the
focus/tracking data.
FLUORESCENT INDICATOR TUBE FULL LIGHTING MODE
1. Connect TP (AFJin 2 of CN515) to GND (Ground), and turn
ON the POWER switch.
2. The bridge check (check for short-circut between pins of the S
RAM (IC202 of the servo board)) is performed, and all the FL
tubes light up if there is no bridge.
3. When a key other than the p(stop) key is pressed, the corresponding
FL tubes lights up.
Each time the p(stop) key is pressed, all the FL tubes light up.
[SERVO BOARD] — Conductor Side —
CN514 CN513
CN515
IC104 IC105 IC102
IC202
ADJ
321
AFJ
SERVICING NOTE
NOTES ON HANDLING THE OPTICAL PICK-UP BLOCK
OR BASE UNIT
The laser diode in the optical pick-up block may suffer electrostatic
break-down because of the potential difference generated by the
charged electrostatic load, etc. on clothing and the human body.
During repair, pay attention to electrostatic break-down and also use
the procedure in the printed matter which is included in the repair
parts.
The flexible board is easily damaged and should be handled with
care.
NOTES ON LASER DIODE EMISSION CHECK
The laser beam on this model is concentrated so as to be focused on
the disc reflective surface by the objective lens in the optical pick-up
block. Therefore, when checking the laser diode emission, observe
from more than 30 cm away from the objective lens.
LASER DIODE AND FOCUS SEARCH OPERATION CHECK
Carry out the “S curve check” in “CD section adjustment” and check
that the S curve waveform is output three times.
WRITING OF FOCUS/TRACKING AUTO GAIN DATA
General CD palyers using digital servo ICs automatically adjust the
focus/tracking gain each time the disc is changed.
In this unit, the gain of the standard disc (YEDS-18) is written in the
non-volatile memory (IC203:X24C01S) of the servo board so that
the gain need not be re-adjusted when changing discs.
Therefore, if the servo board, IC203 of the servo board, or optical
pick-up has been replaced, be sure to write the auto gain data.
1. Connect TP (ADJ: Pin 3 of CN515) to GND (Ground), and turn
ON the POWER switch.
2. Insert the test disc (YEDS-18). (The TOC data of the disc will be
read.)
This memorizes the auto gain data of the test disc.
Note:
• If the disc is replaced without turning OFF the power, the auto gain
data of the last disc inserted will be memorized.
• If the POWER switch is turned ON without connecting TP (ADJ)
to GND, the auto gain data will not be memorized when the disc is
inserted, and the data memorized the last time will be taken as the
focus/tracking data.
FLUORESCENT INDICATOR TUBE FULL LIGHTING MODE
1. Connect TP (AFJ
in 2 of CN515) to GND (Ground), and turnON the POWER switch.
2. The bridge check (check for short-circut between pins of the S
RAM (IC202 of the servo board)) is performed, and all the FL
tubes light up if there is no bridge.
3. When a key other than the p(stop) key is pressed, the corresponding
FL tubes lights up.
Each time the p(stop) key is pressed, all the FL tubes light up.
[SERVO BOARD] — Conductor Side —
CN514 CN513
CN515
IC104 IC105 IC102
IC202
ADJ
321
AFJ
Nice!
I have the CDP-X5000, service manual - and the YEDS18.
But with my OMS-5E CD-Player from 1986, I got the best results by adjusting using several CD´s,
beginning with some early Polygram issues and ending with one contemporary CD, which is at the other side of specifications.
Eyepatterns will look very different, the eyepattern from the YEDS-18 not necessarily being the clearest one
Adjusting using only the YEDS-18 will not make every CD playable on this old machine.
The CDP-X5000 has one nice feature, focus can be also aligned mechanically by an adjustment screw.
Never sercived it though, besides the switch which is triggered by the lid.
I had to heighten it a bit, or the player would not recognize the lid being closed.
BTW, since I bought the CDP-X5000, (around 1997) it jumps, when being cold.
After some warm up time, it plays without problems.
In a hot summer, the problem will not occur at all.
Any idea where to start to look? Bad solder joints?
System controller?
All the best,
Sal
I have the CDP-X5000, service manual - and the YEDS18.
But with my OMS-5E CD-Player from 1986, I got the best results by adjusting using several CD´s,
beginning with some early Polygram issues and ending with one contemporary CD, which is at the other side of specifications.
Eyepatterns will look very different, the eyepattern from the YEDS-18 not necessarily being the clearest one
Adjusting using only the YEDS-18 will not make every CD playable on this old machine.
The CDP-X5000 has one nice feature, focus can be also aligned mechanically by an adjustment screw.
Never sercived it though, besides the switch which is triggered by the lid.
I had to heighten it a bit, or the player would not recognize the lid being closed.
BTW, since I bought the CDP-X5000, (around 1997) it jumps, when being cold.
After some warm up time, it plays without problems.
In a hot summer, the problem will not occur at all.
Any idea where to start to look? Bad solder joints?
System controller?
All the best,
Sal
Have you performed this specific test on the cdp x5000 ?
WRITING OF FOCUS/TRACKING AUTO GAIN DATA
General CD palyers using digital servo ICs automatically adjust the
focus/tracking gain each time the disc is changed.
In this unit, the gain of the standard disc (YEDS-18) is written in the
non-volatile memory (IC203:X24C01S) of the servo board so that
the gain need not be re-adjusted when changing discs.
Therefore, if the servo board, IC203 of the servo board, or optical
pick-up has been replaced, be sure to write the auto gain data.
1. Connect TP (ADJ: Pin 3 of CN515) to GND (Ground), and turn
ON the POWER switch.
2. Insert the test disc (YEDS-18). (The TOC data of the disc will be
read.)
This memorizes the auto gain data of the test disc.
Note:
• If the disc is replaced without turning OFF the power, the auto gain
data of the last disc inserted will be memorized.
• If the POWER switch is turned ON without connecting TP (ADJ)
to GND, the auto gain data will not be memorized when the disc is
inserted, and the data memorized the last time will be taken as the
focus/tracking data.
Have a used x5000 coming my way in a couple of days. No manual adjustment. The value are stored in EE-prom (IC-203). Just curious.
WRITING OF FOCUS/TRACKING AUTO GAIN DATA
General CD palyers using digital servo ICs automatically adjust the
focus/tracking gain each time the disc is changed.
In this unit, the gain of the standard disc (YEDS-18) is written in the
non-volatile memory (IC203:X24C01S) of the servo board so that
the gain need not be re-adjusted when changing discs.
Therefore, if the servo board, IC203 of the servo board, or optical
pick-up has been replaced, be sure to write the auto gain data.
1. Connect TP (ADJ: Pin 3 of CN515) to GND (Ground), and turn
ON the POWER switch.
2. Insert the test disc (YEDS-18). (The TOC data of the disc will be
read.)
This memorizes the auto gain data of the test disc.
Note:
• If the disc is replaced without turning OFF the power, the auto gain
data of the last disc inserted will be memorized.
• If the POWER switch is turned ON without connecting TP (ADJ)
to GND, the auto gain data will not be memorized when the disc is
inserted, and the data memorized the last time will be taken as the
focus/tracking data.
Have a used x5000 coming my way in a couple of days. No manual adjustment. The value are stored in EE-prom (IC-203). Just curious.
The laser pickup kss-274a is no longer available. I know nothing about the spindle motor. I don't think that is the culprit. I suspect that performing this procedure could possibly cure the problem. The player I am receiving next week have reading problems as well from time to time. Talk to you next week when I have seen the inside of this magnificent player.
Well, received the player today from Singapore. After cleaning and removing dust and changing the small switches on the keyboard printed circuit board (probably corrosion, high humidity in Singapore) I cannot make it to fail on reading the disk. It works absolutely perfect. If you have problems reading the disc I would recommend the procedure mentioned earlier. If you open the top cover of the player (careful with the cabling) you will see three plugs with no connection on them in front of the drive. CN513 CN514 and CN515. Unless you are used to handling a soldering iron I would advice to find a plug that fits in the three pin CN515. Solder pin 1 and 3 together on the plug or put in an on/off switch for future use. (very handy). Turn off the power. Put in the plug or press the mounted switch. Insert the YEDS-18 and read the Table Of Content (TOC). Turn off the power. Remove the plug or turn switch off. The data has been saved in the small chip you see connected to pin 19 and 20 on controller IC201. One line is the clock an the other is data. I suspect this would calibrate the laser for mechanical wear/aging ?. I also suspect that the TOC of any CD would bee sufficient for this procedure but of that I am not certain. GOOD LUCK. I will post any information here that comes to my knowledge that would be of interest
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Hi Mooly,
No problem.
All I did was to list the basic stuff that will get you a properly aligned machine for sure. Any machine that I'm not sure about will have the azimuth aligned by ear first. With practice on many machines, you can get it pretty much spot on.
However, the playback levels and response are critical. Unless you have the levels set up, no noise reduction methods will work properly. The more effective the noise reduction, the more critical the alignment must be. Example, Dolby "B" is about the lest sensitive, whereas dBx is the most touchy. Dolby "C" was designed to be more effective along the lines of a simplified Dolby "SR" for studio multi-track machines. Think Studer here. Dolby "A" is far more effective than Dolby "B". Again, Dolby "A" is for studio use. Interesting note. A two track Studer running at 15 ips (even!) and Dolby "SR" for noise reduction has greater dynamic range and signal to noise ratio than a perfect 16 bit digital system! How's them apples?
Hi dacen,
The higher end Sony machines are all a pain in the rear with a higher failure rate and more complicated alignment than "normal" machines. I would not want to own a Sony ES or any other really expensive Sony machine!
In most CD players, the disc (spindle) motor is the major source of failure unless the motor is more substantial. A old Nakamichi OMS-5 is a good example of this, but an OMS-5II has the normal motor. Sorry Salar.
Hi galop,
Ahhh, what do you need to align on the Studer 727?
If you are aligning a new laser, not the complete head, no. This turned out to be a factory job to get it done correctly. We tried with the transparent glass disc from Philips (expensive as ---- !!). The Studer distribution rep tried (Studer/Revox here in Toronto) and they decided it was a factory only job as well. We were authorized warranty for Revox at the time. Basically, the older Philips transports were difficult to work on as far as a new laser was concerned. You do not want to attempt this.
Aligning the transport is pretty easy. You have a laser power adjustment, a mechanical height adjustment, and gain adjustment. It's a single spot system I think, so no E-F balance adjustment. The filter box should be detailed in the manual, easy to make and you need it. I built up a switchable filter for Philips machines, and "click" we had Studer/Revox covered as well. The time constants are different, as well as test frequency and level. You need to use your 'scope in X-Y mode for this. There is often an adjustment for the motor - DO NOT TOUCH THIS!! Make very sure you are adjusting what you should be adjusting, it's easy to make an error as I have in the past. This type of error will make you a very unhappy camper.
You will need only Philips Test Disc #5, 5A is only used to confirm proper operation. Also, I don't know if this was still a problem, but the original cable from the tray to the PCB was gray. It would crack the insulation and short out the 7 VDC rail for the laser diode. This tended to destroy the laser diode. The new replacement cable was light blue in colour. You might want to have a peak inside first. The new cable was more flexible, the insulation didn't crack open. Not while the cable was new anyway.
-Chris
No problem.
All I did was to list the basic stuff that will get you a properly aligned machine for sure. Any machine that I'm not sure about will have the azimuth aligned by ear first. With practice on many machines, you can get it pretty much spot on.
However, the playback levels and response are critical. Unless you have the levels set up, no noise reduction methods will work properly. The more effective the noise reduction, the more critical the alignment must be. Example, Dolby "B" is about the lest sensitive, whereas dBx is the most touchy. Dolby "C" was designed to be more effective along the lines of a simplified Dolby "SR" for studio multi-track machines. Think Studer here. Dolby "A" is far more effective than Dolby "B". Again, Dolby "A" is for studio use. Interesting note. A two track Studer running at 15 ips (even!) and Dolby "SR" for noise reduction has greater dynamic range and signal to noise ratio than a perfect 16 bit digital system! How's them apples?
Hi dacen,
The higher end Sony machines are all a pain in the rear with a higher failure rate and more complicated alignment than "normal" machines. I would not want to own a Sony ES or any other really expensive Sony machine!
In most CD players, the disc (spindle) motor is the major source of failure unless the motor is more substantial. A old Nakamichi OMS-5 is a good example of this, but an OMS-5II has the normal motor. Sorry Salar.
Hi galop,
Ahhh, what do you need to align on the Studer 727?
If you are aligning a new laser, not the complete head, no. This turned out to be a factory job to get it done correctly. We tried with the transparent glass disc from Philips (expensive as ---- !!). The Studer distribution rep tried (Studer/Revox here in Toronto) and they decided it was a factory only job as well. We were authorized warranty for Revox at the time. Basically, the older Philips transports were difficult to work on as far as a new laser was concerned. You do not want to attempt this.
Aligning the transport is pretty easy. You have a laser power adjustment, a mechanical height adjustment, and gain adjustment. It's a single spot system I think, so no E-F balance adjustment. The filter box should be detailed in the manual, easy to make and you need it. I built up a switchable filter for Philips machines, and "click" we had Studer/Revox covered as well. The time constants are different, as well as test frequency and level. You need to use your 'scope in X-Y mode for this. There is often an adjustment for the motor - DO NOT TOUCH THIS!! Make very sure you are adjusting what you should be adjusting, it's easy to make an error as I have in the past. This type of error will make you a very unhappy camper.
You will need only Philips Test Disc #5, 5A is only used to confirm proper operation. Also, I don't know if this was still a problem, but the original cable from the tray to the PCB was gray. It would crack the insulation and short out the 7 VDC rail for the laser diode. This tended to destroy the laser diode. The new replacement cable was light blue in colour. You might want to have a peak inside first. The new cable was more flexible, the insulation didn't crack open. Not while the cable was new anyway.
-Chris
Not sure if this would be helpful but thougt I'd throw it in. I use mobile fidelity production discs to adjust laser power & focus ofset in older philips players(single beam swing arm). This has produced the widest level of playability among all discs that i have tried I also tried to find original alignment discs but had no luck.
Well the cdp-x5000 has started to skip when it is cold. During this cold winter i have had this problem repeatedly when the player is cold. When the player has been turned on for half an hour or so the skipping stops. I have reason to believe that it is the lubrication of the sledge carrying the cd/spindle motor that has dried up over time or that the electrolytic capacitors on the power supply feeding the sledge motor. (may be ripple on the voltage caused by dried out capacitors ?) I will take it apart and report back information of interest. Absolutely a wonderful player by the way.
Hi Dacen,
well, i don´t think it is dried out capacitors or lubricant. I have the same problem from the very beginning (bought it in `96) and I am used to heat my appartment only when temperatures are below 15-13 degrees celsius - in the apartment
Maybe the crystal oscillator is prone to heat and gives an "offbeat".
My skips are very precise and not randomly and after some warm up time, they disappear.
All the best, Sal
well, i don´t think it is dried out capacitors or lubricant. I have the same problem from the very beginning (bought it in `96) and I am used to heat my appartment only when temperatures are below 15-13 degrees celsius - in the apartment
Maybe the crystal oscillator is prone to heat and gives an "offbeat".
My skips are very precise and not randomly and after some warm up time, they disappear.
All the best, Sal