Re: ?new? Seas full range
Strange, they have the datasheet but no prices or anything in the catalog. Neither references... Do you have an idea of the price ?
Also, the sensitivity is expressed in dB@2.83V/1m, and the driver is a 4 ohm one.
Anyway, with that T/S parameters an out-of-the-box BIB is doomed to be humongous...
RKH said:
Strange, they have the datasheet but no prices or anything in the catalog. Neither references... Do you have an idea of the price ?
Also, the sensitivity is expressed in dB@2.83V/1m, and the driver is a 4 ohm one.
Anyway, with that T/S parameters an out-of-the-box BIB is doomed to be humongous...
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How about the Chang series or Metronome?
Re: "beauty", it's far more likely I'd hold one of these in my hands than Gwen Stefani or Lauren Laverne. I guess one can always dream of either possibility ... hmmmm... 😉
Thanks for the input Scott.
Ryan
How about the Chang series or Metronome?
Re: "beauty", it's far more likely I'd hold one of these in my hands than Gwen Stefani or Lauren Laverne. I guess one can always dream of either possibility ... hmmmm... 😉
Thanks for the input Scott.
Ryan
I like that Jantzen setup a lot. Could not find pricing on their website tho. Looks like an elegant solution for low power tube amps. I hope it's cheap!
For those of us who are not afraid to crossover around 6k there must be extended 6 and 8 inch drivers out there from some of the more common manufacturers... vifa, seas, morel, etc. that would work well in BIBs and other current cab designs.
Godzilla
For those of us who are not afraid to crossover around 6k there must be extended 6 and 8 inch drivers out there from some of the more common manufacturers... vifa, seas, morel, etc. that would work well in BIBs and other current cab designs.
Godzilla
RKH said:
Er... would you believe me if I told you I've just completed the first pass of a double BVR box for this Seas unit, inc. provisional curve? Just sent the dimensions over to Dave.
Sadly, the same applies for me in re Gwen or Lauren.
Nice to dream though...Scottmoose said:
oh dear .... another DIY project to add to my already-too-long list. Can't wait to see it. Thanks Scott! Maybe I can cover the curvy sides with pictures of Gwen and ... 😉
Ryan
Variac said:Then Mr. Moose has to confirm the optimal BIB setup for the Jantzen!
Faster! Faster!
Anyone can do that -just download one of the spreadsheets. They'll all give ~optimal dimensions for this type of box.
Anyway, rounding the numbers up to the next 1/8in, I get 161.5in total length (/2 for height), 9.375in wide x 13.25in deep, internal.
>>> Anyway, rounding the numbers up to the next 1/8in, I get 161.5in total length (/2 for height), 9.375in wide x 13.25in deep, internal.
That closely matches my guesses for a generic BIB.
>Generic BIBs (if there ever could be such a thing) I think
>from a size standpoint:
>
>160 Line for 8” drivers – 140 Sm
>140 Line for 6.5” drivers – 90 Sm
>120 Line for 4” drivers – 50 Sm
Godzilla
That closely matches my guesses for a generic BIB.
>Generic BIBs (if there ever could be such a thing) I think
>from a size standpoint:
>
>160 Line for 8” drivers – 140 Sm
>140 Line for 6.5” drivers – 90 Sm
>120 Line for 4” drivers – 50 Sm
Godzilla
how to get more bass extension?
hey all. I've built my first BiB as a subwoofer (my BiB sub ). I'm pretty happy with the results so far, but I'm wondering about possible ways to increase the bass extension using the same drivers. Will increasing Vb/Sm help at all? Is increasing L my only option? I'm pretty impressed so far (although I've got to deal with some room modes), but I can't help but want to tinker/rebuild and go deeper.
hey all. I've built my first BiB as a subwoofer (my BiB sub ). I'm pretty happy with the results so far, but I'm wondering about possible ways to increase the bass extension using the same drivers. Will increasing Vb/Sm help at all? Is increasing L my only option? I'm pretty impressed so far (although I've got to deal with some room modes), but I can't help but want to tinker/rebuild and go deeper.
Re: how to get more bass extension?
Greets!
With a T.C. style BIB, yes. Ditto a DSL style BIB (aka tapped horn). Then there's TQWTs, ML-TQWTs (reverse tapered TLs, mass loaded TLs).
GM
santiu said:
Greets!
With a T.C. style BIB, yes. Ditto a DSL style BIB (aka tapped horn). Then there's TQWTs, ML-TQWTs (reverse tapered TLs, mass loaded TLs).
GM
Hi there
Over the last couple of days I have catching up on some forum activity and tried to get the overall flow of this thread. I'm interested in building some BIBs and wondering about a couple of things.
First has anyone built BIBs using good quality car audio drivers, I have tried open baffles with such drivers and the results were very nice. I know its full range forum but I have some 91db efficient 6 inch 4 way Pioneers that could be interesting. There is probably some good reason why such drivers would be unsuitable but comments would be great.
One of the things I imagine coax's would get around is the feeding of HF through the system, which could mean damping could be better optimized for bass output etc.
On the subject of inverted designs would the bass in designs using small drivers by having a bottom which had a formed mouth that fired a directed wave into the corner from say 3 feet or so, a couple of the pics I saw went some way towards this.
The inside of the cabs have a flat bottom chamber, I wonder would there be a benefit to having a shaped/curved floor, my gut feeling, though probably wrong is this would better direct and control the pressure wave.
I have seen a few comments regarding the lack of clearance behind the driver, is there any reason why a square hole could not be cut behind the driver and then a thin metal plate be placed on the rear side of the dividing baffle with the the void filled with whatever damping material is needed.
Obviously some of these things make construction a bit more complex but my feeling is that it would still be pretty simple.
Over the last couple of days I have catching up on some forum activity and tried to get the overall flow of this thread. I'm interested in building some BIBs and wondering about a couple of things.
First has anyone built BIBs using good quality car audio drivers, I have tried open baffles with such drivers and the results were very nice. I know its full range forum but I have some 91db efficient 6 inch 4 way Pioneers that could be interesting. There is probably some good reason why such drivers would be unsuitable but comments would be great.
One of the things I imagine coax's would get around is the feeding of HF through the system, which could mean damping could be better optimized for bass output etc.
On the subject of inverted designs would the bass in designs using small drivers by having a bottom which had a formed mouth that fired a directed wave into the corner from say 3 feet or so, a couple of the pics I saw went some way towards this.
The inside of the cabs have a flat bottom chamber, I wonder would there be a benefit to having a shaped/curved floor, my gut feeling, though probably wrong is this would better direct and control the pressure wave.
I have seen a few comments regarding the lack of clearance behind the driver, is there any reason why a square hole could not be cut behind the driver and then a thin metal plate be placed on the rear side of the dividing baffle with the the void filled with whatever damping material is needed.
Obviously some of these things make construction a bit more complex but my feeling is that it would still be pretty simple.
Zero One said:
There is. Typically Q is through the roof with such drivers (that's why they do OK on OBs) so the box would have to be vast. Without having any published T/S parameters (very few ever bother, so you'd probably have to measure them yourself) it's difficult to know for certain or optimise them.
Zero One said:
Shaping the bottom was addressed several times way back in the thread. IIRC, the bass frequencies don't care about the shape of the turn, and the square corners actually help keep higher frequencies from getting through. In this case the discontinuity is an adavntage.
In my FR125 BIB's, I routed a small pocket into the interior baffle to clear the drivers magnet. I suppose that if you were right at the point of breaking through you could 'patch' the baffle as you suggest. If the driver stuck through too much, a flat patch wouldn't work. At that point, I'd just think about doubling up the front baffle.
Bill
Bill
Scottmoose said:
Greets!
Since it's a multi-way we don't have to worry as much about 'sucking the life' out of the driver's HF response, so seriously overdamping it to lower Qms/Qts is a tuning option. On an OB, experiment with different layers of fiberglass insulation or open cell foam 'blankets' stapled over the rear of the driver to encapsulate it to get an idea how much it takes to hear the bass roll off and if it doesn't unacceptably 'muffle' its dynamics, then build a 'stock' height, generic size 'Sm' BIB based on the woofer's effective average diameter with the driver mounted on a separate small sub-baffle to both increase available mounting depth and allow for easy 'blanket' adjustment as required.
GM
Hi guys thanks for the great replies, food though over Christmas while I am away and relaxed.
GM your comments on damping are interesting and I imagine that if I made it with a sub baffle, which is how I do my OBs then I could easily swap in a fostex or similar driver of roughly the same size (6.25 inches) if it is a dud.
One little thought I had is that I run all my systems using 12v gainclone modules right at the driver (well very close anyway) so I could run separate modules for bass and treble then tune using L pads, or even change the gain for the modules to taste, so ultimately it should be possible to get a reasonably controlled response. While this sounds a bit complex I can build these things very cheaply if the casework for the amp is not an issue, which in this case it wouldn,t be.
I guess what I am toying with is a 4 way active BIB.
Even if I went with fostex drivers I would likely add a super tweeter (I currently use such a set-up) so the electronics etc wouldn't go to waste.
One other issue I wonder about is the distance from the corner, in my room I find I don't like the speakers to far to the corners as the sound stage gets unaturally wide, but if I need close corner positioning then that would be an issue. I am guessing a system such as I am suggesting would not need to be pushed so far to the corners.
Cheers and catch up after Christmas.
GM your comments on damping are interesting and I imagine that if I made it with a sub baffle, which is how I do my OBs then I could easily swap in a fostex or similar driver of roughly the same size (6.25 inches) if it is a dud.
One little thought I had is that I run all my systems using 12v gainclone modules right at the driver (well very close anyway) so I could run separate modules for bass and treble then tune using L pads, or even change the gain for the modules to taste, so ultimately it should be possible to get a reasonably controlled response. While this sounds a bit complex I can build these things very cheaply if the casework for the amp is not an issue, which in this case it wouldn,t be.
I guess what I am toying with is a 4 way active BIB.
Even if I went with fostex drivers I would likely add a super tweeter (I currently use such a set-up) so the electronics etc wouldn't go to waste.
One other issue I wonder about is the distance from the corner, in my room I find I don't like the speakers to far to the corners as the sound stage gets unaturally wide, but if I need close corner positioning then that would be an issue. I am guessing a system such as I am suggesting would not need to be pushed so far to the corners.
Cheers and catch up after Christmas.
You're welcome!
Due to the driver's low Xmax, without corner loading you won't have any dynamic headroom down low to speak of, so doing a floor (mass) loaded one may be the better choice in your case.
GM
Due to the driver's low Xmax, without corner loading you won't have any dynamic headroom down low to speak of, so doing a floor (mass) loaded one may be the better choice in your case.
GM
Hi, I just got a pair of Omnes Audio BB3.01 drivers. They're rougly similar to Tang-Band W3-871, but not quite the same.
Roughly translated from the specs found here:
http://www.spectrumaudio.de/breit/omnesaudio/omnesaudioBB3.01.html
... the driver looks like this:
Nominal impedance / DC resistance: 4 / 3,6 Ohm
Resonant frequency: 95 Hz
Qms / Qes / Qts : 1,8 / 0,43 / 0,35
(Vas): 1,76 Liter
(Sd): 32 cm²
Antriebsfaktor (BL): 3,42 Tm
(Xmax): 1 mm
(Le): 0,09 mH
I was planning to build a pair of Cyburgs Needles or TABAQs. As I'll get some wood cut for me anyway, I'm going to ask -- Can you good people imagine that these would be suited for a pair of BIBs?
Thanks!
edit: notice the 4 ohm impedance - I'm hoping for a magical combination with a Tripath chip with this driver, whatever the enclosure.
Roughly translated from the specs found here:
http://www.spectrumaudio.de/breit/omnesaudio/omnesaudioBB3.01.html
... the driver looks like this:
Nominal impedance / DC resistance: 4 / 3,6 Ohm
Resonant frequency: 95 Hz
Qms / Qes / Qts : 1,8 / 0,43 / 0,35
(Vas): 1,76 Liter
(Sd): 32 cm²
Antriebsfaktor (BL): 3,42 Tm
(Xmax): 1 mm
(Le): 0,09 mH
I was planning to build a pair of Cyburgs Needles or TABAQs. As I'll get some wood cut for me anyway, I'm going to ask -- Can you good people imagine that these would be suited for a pair of BIBs?
Thanks!
edit: notice the 4 ohm impedance - I'm hoping for a magical combination with a Tripath chip with this driver, whatever the enclosure.
