>>>He died a few weeks later<<<
Dedicated to the job he was good at, until his last breath - TC comes to mind. I raise my glass to both of them, wherever they are.
Pit
Dedicated to the job he was good at, until his last breath - TC comes to mind. I raise my glass to both of them, wherever they are.
Pit
Well, sorry for your loss! As to his remark, medification and deceases make strange things to humans as Scott wrote.
Regards
Peter
Regards
Peter
Sometimes it is very complicated being human. We are analogue so it seems, many shades of grey. Not simply black and white.
Stroop
Stroop
You all speak words of wisdom my friends.
Back onto the subject of cabinets, I've been looking at different ways to approach the BIB & I've got a potentially new twist. I need to look into it a little more but it could be interesting. Same geometry; not as easy to build, but could improve linearity. I'll let you know exactly what it is soon.
Back onto the subject of cabinets, I've been looking at different ways to approach the BIB & I've got a potentially new twist. I need to look into it a little more but it could be interesting. Same geometry; not as easy to build, but could improve linearity. I'll let you know exactly what it is soon.
One of my Fostex 127e has died. We had 14 kids under 9 years old at my house for a birthday party and the very next day all that came out of one speaker was a mess of distortion. So I will be placing a Madisound order for a replacement... while i'm buying i thought i'd buy another pair of drivers.
It's a toss up between the 167e ane the 165k. I will be swapping them in and out of either a BIB or Straight Pipe (that's bigger than spec) and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on these two drivers. I'm sure they are both great but am hoping for some listening impressions.
Which one sounds warmer and more relaxed? I will be using super tweeters with both.
TIA,
Godzilla
It's a toss up between the 167e ane the 165k. I will be swapping them in and out of either a BIB or Straight Pipe (that's bigger than spec) and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on these two drivers. I'm sure they are both great but am hoping for some listening impressions.
Which one sounds warmer and more relaxed? I will be using super tweeters with both.
TIA,
Godzilla
Hi Scott!
I'll be much interested what you come up with. I've just found a joiner which can supply a three layer of birch panels. I'm thinking of my Sonido's, which build has been delayed due to a S&*t load of work at my profession. I'll be happy to try out anything you come up with!
Best regards
Peter
I'll be much interested what you come up with. I've just found a joiner which can supply a three layer of birch panels. I'm thinking of my Sonido's, which build has been delayed due to a S&*t load of work at my profession. I'll be happy to try out anything you come up with!
Best regards
Peter
Warmer and more relaxed? FF165K is your driver Jeff. Xmax is a bit limited, but I never had any distortion problems in my boxes, and I gather no-one else has. TC rated this combination I believe. You get a more liquid presentation thanks to the lack of whizzer & it's better in small spaces, not that it has a problem going loud when required. I still remember listening to Nights in White Satin on loop, getting progressively louder. Presentation was stunning.
Peter -those Sondios are the ones with the wooden phase plugs, right? Should go well in those boxes I modelled a while back. Nice units, or they look like they are.
Peter -those Sondios are the ones with the wooden phase plugs, right? Should go well in those boxes I modelled a while back. Nice units, or they look like they are.
Has anyone here had comparison experience with the FE108EZ's and the bigger drivers?
I'm running a little shorter on funds than I first thought...might not have the $280 for a pair of 168EZ's. But I listen to rock and orchestral music a lot, and a little voice is telling me that I won't be happy with 4" drivers 😱
Am I wrong to think this?
I'm running a little shorter on funds than I first thought...might not have the $280 for a pair of 168EZ's. But I listen to rock and orchestral music a lot, and a little voice is telling me that I won't be happy with 4" drivers 😱
Am I wrong to think this?
Hi Glowbug!
In my opinion for what it is worth...(I have the fe108's in a BIB enclosure) it is a beautiful driver! It is delicate, fast, has a really lovely tone to it and is totally ok with highs. It CAN sound 'leaner' but I don't know if that is the drivers fault or my implementation or just what I'm used to hearing. As Scott and some others here have suggested, I think a bigger driver would be better in the BIB, if that is the direction you want to go. I believe the dip in a fe108 BIB, is in a place where it is more easily heard compared to the fe167 etc. And if you want deep bass with the fe108, you will need a sub too, just like Terry Cain implemented with his version. Which from what I understand you definately don't need with a bigger driver.
I am going to build the Harvey for the fe108's in the near future as it seems it is more optimal for this sized driver. I'll keep both enclosures and will compare, which will be fun!
Please, if people don't agree with what i've suggested I won't be offended!
Stroop
In my opinion for what it is worth...(I have the fe108's in a BIB enclosure) it is a beautiful driver! It is delicate, fast, has a really lovely tone to it and is totally ok with highs. It CAN sound 'leaner' but I don't know if that is the drivers fault or my implementation or just what I'm used to hearing. As Scott and some others here have suggested, I think a bigger driver would be better in the BIB, if that is the direction you want to go. I believe the dip in a fe108 BIB, is in a place where it is more easily heard compared to the fe167 etc. And if you want deep bass with the fe108, you will need a sub too, just like Terry Cain implemented with his version. Which from what I understand you definately don't need with a bigger driver.
I am going to build the Harvey for the fe108's in the near future as it seems it is more optimal for this sized driver. I'll keep both enclosures and will compare, which will be fun!
Please, if people don't agree with what i've suggested I won't be offended!
Stroop
Thanks!...I'll probably end up with the bigger drivers, just would be nice if I could find a nice used pair somewhere 
That's the problem with Sigmas -people tend to hang on to them. You might find a pair of thr original non 'E' 168Sigmas though if you keep looking.
The $ is all relative. I bought my 168EZs on-line from the US for $140 ea, and including shipping to the UK I still saved $100 compared to buying them here. Everything is so damn expensive in the UK, so count yourself lucky and go out and buy what you know you really want!😉
Good advice. If you don't indulge yourself in this life, you can put even money on it nobody else will. Besides, I have this feeling that Sigmas represent good VFM anyway, as people tend to forget about upgrading for a long, long time. Unless you simply have to have a Lowther. 😉
Today i purchased another 127e to replace my ruined one and a pair of 165k's... can't wait hear the 165k!
I'm curious to hear how the 165k compares to the 168S.
Question, how did TC get bass out of the 165k in his Abby's? The Qts is very low for that cabinet.
I'm curious to hear how the 165k compares to the 168S.
Question, how did TC get bass out of the 165k in his Abby's? The Qts is very low for that cabinet.
Greets!
He either had to two-stage it (DBR) and/or use lots of output impedance like was used in the 'good ol' days'.
GM
He either had to two-stage it (DBR) and/or use lots of output impedance like was used in the 'good ol' days'.
GM
Greg,
spot on, as usual. Last time I exchanged emails with TC (s**t - I still automatically look for his name when I open my mailbox) he was experimenting with high resistance speaker cables to raise Qe.
Cheers,
Pit
spot on, as usual. Last time I exchanged emails with TC (s**t - I still automatically look for his name when I open my mailbox) he was experimenting with high resistance speaker cables to raise Qe.
Cheers,
Pit
I don't think he did get a huge amount of bass out of it. Solid to about 70Hz, F10 about 40Hz, give or take. Adding a high reistance cable extends that a little. I have a little inside information on Abby. I can't go into it as I was told in confidence, but suffice to say Abby is not quite what it looks on the outside. In all honesty, it's not the way I'd choose to design an ML TQWT, but plenty of owners seem happy. Luckily this lack of LF is about the last thing you're going to worry about with them BIB loaded. 1/2 wave tuning to a desired frequency has it's benefits... 😉
Pit Hinder said:
And for all those years he flailed me for putting filters on full-rangers!
Bob
😉 Bless him.
I liked Terry a lot, respected him greatly & will always miss his contributions & our occasional emails. But he wasn't exactly the most consistant bloke I ever met. In fairness, I remember GM pointing out on the original FR forum (I think), that a resistive piece of wire doesn't work in quite the same way as a ceramic. But that still scuppers old TCs argument a bit, because it doesn't change the fact that it's still deliberately altering the driver parameters!
I liked Terry a lot, respected him greatly & will always miss his contributions & our occasional emails. But he wasn't exactly the most consistant bloke I ever met. In fairness, I remember GM pointing out on the original FR forum (I think), that a resistive piece of wire doesn't work in quite the same way as a ceramic. But that still scuppers old TCs argument a bit, because it doesn't change the fact that it's still deliberately altering the driver parameters!
Greets!
Yeah, this whole tube amp Vs SS amp cum filter philosophy thing doesn't make much sense since a typical tube amp is one big multiple EQ ckts. ganged together with distortion levels that rival drivers, so all we're really 'debating' is the SQ/relative merit of various distortions.
Since SS high power, decent caps, resistors, inductors are all relatively cheap and most important to me, long lived/maintenance free, this power line format combined minimizing driver distortion has been my 'no brainer' choice since 1970. That said, the most life-like reproduced vocals I ever heard was from a ~10 W SET tube amp direct coupled (no OPT) to a huge W.E. compression horn, but not having been able to try it my way I'm not convinced the power line part is the Holy Grail of electrical-mechanical-acoustical synergy, but it's for @#$% sure a lofty performance benchmark.
GM
Yeah, this whole tube amp Vs SS amp cum filter philosophy thing doesn't make much sense since a typical tube amp is one big multiple EQ ckts. ganged together with distortion levels that rival drivers, so all we're really 'debating' is the SQ/relative merit of various distortions.
Since SS high power, decent caps, resistors, inductors are all relatively cheap and most important to me, long lived/maintenance free, this power line format combined minimizing driver distortion has been my 'no brainer' choice since 1970. That said, the most life-like reproduced vocals I ever heard was from a ~10 W SET tube amp direct coupled (no OPT) to a huge W.E. compression horn, but not having been able to try it my way I'm not convinced the power line part is the Holy Grail of electrical-mechanical-acoustical synergy, but it's for @#$% sure a lofty performance benchmark.
GM